Why does my new pool pump keep tripping the breaker, even after replacing it, when the breaker has more capacity than needed?
Asked by Heidi Crawford 
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 14, 2024
Hey, so every month or so, the breaker for my new pool pump keeps tripping. At first, I thought it might be the breaker, so I went ahead and replaced it, but the issue still persists. The pump doesn’t require as much power as the breaker can handle, so I’m not sure what’s causing this recurring problem. Any ideas on what could be going on?
Are there any ants 🐜?
It could be a faulty pump, a loose wire, or that the wire is too small.
Verify the wire size, connections, and consider replacing the breaker if needed. Breakers can go bad over time.
How does the current draw compare to the breaker size? What’s the ambient temperature like? Is the wire sized correctly? Are all the connections secure?
Hayward pumps require a specific type of breaker to avoid tripping unless the pump is faulty. ITE Siemens is a recommended brand, but be sure to verify on their website.
I posted a photo of the breaker being used for this item. It’s not a Siemens brand.
Siemens is affordable quality, while QO or CH are top-notch. Plus, they come with a lifetime warranty.
May think so, but Siemens FCI breakers are designed to have a higher trip rating than other brands, so they don’t trip randomly on Hayward pumps.
Just the new text:
may think so, but Siemens FCI breakers are designed to have a higher trip rating than other brands, so they don’t trip randomly on Hayward pumps.
I’ve wired many Hayward and Pentair pool pumps, and I’ve never had any issues with a 2 pole 20 amp FCI from Siemens. Definitely worth giving it a try!
The neutral connection in the panel may be loose…. etc
Try putting a clamp meter on the feed to check the current draw. Remember, motors don’t improve with age.
Does it happen to be a variable speed pump?
Yes, it has variable speed controlled by an internal computer.
Circuit breakers are designed to protect the conductors, while thermal overloads safeguard the motor windings. An immediate mechanical issue could cause the motor to lock up, tripping the breaker instantly. It’s important to inspect the pump for any potential failures.
Just because the pump is new doesn’t guarantee that the motor windings are in good condition. Have you verified the resistance readings between the phase and earth/neutral? Also, have you checked if the pump is deadheading (pushing water with a blockage and overheating)?
It could be the wrong breaker. Keep in mind the starting current and the possibility of the motor being jammed if it hasn’t been used in a while. Check if the motor can rotate freely by hand
It’s getting really hot outside.
There might be water seeping in from sprinklers or rainfall.
These days, there are a lot of service calls – in my experience, the motors are designed to only last a couple of years. Unfortunately, when you troubleshoot a device and it’s pulling within the nameplate specifications… there’s nothing wrong on the electrical side. Many people keep the main pump running continuously, so using a mechanical timer can extend the life of the motor.
It’s possible that the wires are connected incorrectly because I’ve noticed this a few times. Try taking off the pump cover and double checking to ensure the wires are attached to the terminals properly. Some pool pumps can be set up for either 110 or 220 volts, and I’ve seen them hooked up incorrectly before.
Sometimes, moisture entering the motor windings from the pump can cause the breaker to trip. As the windings dry out with the existing heat in the motor, the issue that triggered the breaker to trip is resolved over time.
That’s intriguing. Is there a way to prevent that from happening?
Make sure to monitor the amperage while the motor is running to confirm if it falls within the specified range for the motor. I once faced a similar issue with a motor, and it turned out to be a head pressure problem. However, in that case, the motor would usually trip within 20 minutes of running.
Consider using a Siemens breaker instead of an Eaton one
Does the pool owner clean or backwash the pool monthly?
Need to check the FI?
I agree with ‘s thoughts.
I posted a picture in the main post. Could that be the issue with ‘s FCI?
You might want to make sure the pump is turned off before operating the valve on the sand filter to avoid any potential issues.
Just and only the new text: Make sure the pump is turned off before operating the valve on the sand filter to avoid any potential issues.
Can you tell us if it’s a FCI breaker? And if so, does it trip right away, after a few seconds, or only sometimes? Please provide as many details as possible, including the name plate specs and the size of the circuit you’re using.
Uy Harrelson Thanks for the input. I’ve shared pictures of everything in the main post now. It’s a FCI breaker. The pump doesn’t trip right away. It runs for weeks before tripping.
New pump and new breaker, but still getting random tripping. Are you reusing the electrical connection from the old pump? There might be some corrosion that acts up with changing air conditions, causing a slight ground bleed. This can trip the FCI. If the pump motor or its connection gets wet, it can also trigger the FCI. Your motor draws 6.3 amps at 240 volts and is on a 20 amp breaker, which is good. Have you checked how many amps the pump is actually drawing? If it’s clogged, it would likely draw higher amperage. Do you clean out the pump when it trips?
Uy Harrelson I’m using the old wiring. Do you think that could be causing the problem? The pump is cleaned regularly.
Hey, I’m not saying that is the issue you’re dealing with. But sometimes old pool wiring can get pretty corroded from chlorine fumes. That corrosion in your connections could potentially be causing the problem. Just make sure everything is clean. You might have to swap out the outlet if your pump is plugged in instead of hardwired.
Are you using the right hose size and inlets? Check for blockages, but my guess is the line is too small for proper flow and ramping current draw. Use an amp meter and observe. Make sure you have a proper filter.
If it doesn’t change, then head over to the breaker and check the connections. If everything checks out, go ahead and replace the breaker.
Actually, centrifugal pumps decrease amps when there’s a blockage. The amps are directly related to the amount of work being done, which is the flow (pm). If you slow down the flow, the amps will drop. However, with positive displacement pumps, it’s a whole different story.
It’s true that for suction blockages, and 99.9% of pool pump blockages are suction side. When the pump cavitates, it ends up doing less work.
Tate rafton Hey man, I’ve spent most of my 37-year career in heavy mining with large pumps. I’ve worked with pumps of all sizes. Remember, less overall flow means less amps in a centrifugal style pump. Why don’t you try it out in a hot tub? You’ll see the difference.
You know what, I was mistaken.
You can increase the porch startup ampacity on your breaker by 125%. Then, test one leg at a time on high amp lock with an ant probe. Check for dust to determine if the pump is faulty or if the overload protection is being triggered.
Since the trips happen randomly, make sure the skimmer is clear and the basket is empty. Sometimes it gets clogged randomly and causes the pump to draw more power. Random trips can be frustrating to troubleshoot and often end up being something trivial.
Is Rob getting on your nerves?
Insufficient information provided.
I added more pictures and information, .
The issue with the motor is likely the FCI breaker. Classic!
It’s a pool pump. It needs to have a FCI.
No, it doesn’t. It’s meant to be in a wet location, just like a sump pump. It doesn’t have to be on one.
The capacitor on the motor sounds faulty, even if it’s brand new.
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I spotted one that was having some problems. I double-checked the power and operation and discovered that the power cord was too small and overheating. The prongs were also dirty. After replacing the cord with a larger one and a new end, everything was working fine.
If the test results are good and the pump is not drawing too much current while running, consider trying a d curve breaker if you currently have a c. These breakers can assist with startup current.
Yeah, the motor is starting up quickly, but it seems like there might be a ground fault issue! If it happens right away, that’s probably the cause!
I had an issue with the baseball field lights at work where the main fuse kept blowing every 2 to 3 weeks. After testing with a megger and replacing some parts, the problem persisted. Eventually, I used a thermal camera and discovered that the main fuse holders were in bad shape and not making a proper connection, causing a lot of heat. Once I replaced them, the problem was solved.
Can you believe the hair is getting stuck around the auger or missing the alignment, leading to water at the bottom? 🤔
FCI circuits can be sensitive to motors and may trip unexpectedly.
It keeps tripping on FCI. Should I replace it? I’ve tried two FCIs already. I thought the first one was faulty, but the second one is acting the same way.
I switched to a non-FCI breaker in my garage because of the fridge issue.
Do I really need a FCI for the pool pump? I remember that being mandatory.
If you’re experiencing moisture issues and the FCI is tripping, that means it’s working correctly.
Make sure to have ‘s pool pump connected to a FCI!
I haven’t had this problem with any pump I’ve installed. I would say the issue lies with the pump. You should check the windings.
Did you hear about ‘s winding insulation breaking down?
Pool shops offer FI breakers that come with bigger neutrals to prevent those annoying trips.
Isaac, make sure to double-check the wiring of the pump for both 110v and 240v. If it’s not wired correctly, it might trip the gfi, but remember, this is a critical safety issue.
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It’s quite possible that the old motor is about to give out.
Is the breaker adjacent to it overheating? Ambient temperature can cause a breaker to trip prematurely, especially if it is closely sized.
Every motor requires a maximum starting amperage due to voltage drop.
Oops, missed one
The QF220 should be sufficient
Thanks so much, everyone. These ideas are truly helpful. Some people were asking for the specs on the pump and breaker. I’ve included them in the main post, and they’re in the pictures now.
There might be a blockage or something causing the motor to work too hard.
Do you think the problem could be that the inrush current is too high when the rotation starts again? If so, you could try increasing the amperage of the fuse and using a motor protection relay. Sorry for any confusion with technical terms in English.
Make sure to check the filters
Leak? Motor windings going bad? Water splashing onto the connection?
I do a lot of pool work, and some of those new smart pool panels are really touchy. I prefer Cutler Hammer, but I’ve noticed the Siemens FI breaker is much less touchy. Ever since I started using them on those smart panels, especially Pentair panels, I haven’t been dealing with nuisance trips.
The pump motor can experience overload over time.
Possibly there’s a short in your pump or the wiring is grounding.
It seems like the issue might lie in starting under certain load conditions, have you noticed if it struggles more when there is increased back pressure?
Make sure to have a securely connected ground wire for the pump