Why do professionals hang drywall from top to bottom and use spacers to secure the bottom sheet without having to hold it up?
Asked by Branka Jevremović 
4 months ago
Last Updated: September 9, 2024
Do you know why they always hang drywall sheets from the top down? I’ve seen some suggestions on how to keep the top sheet in place while you fasten it. I’ve always started from the bottom up, using spacers to avoid having to hold the sheet up. Works like a charm!
It’s always best to begin at the top, as you want the factory edge to be there for a better fit against the ceiling. Things tend to get messy where you end, and it’s easier to conceal the cut edge at the bottom.
Did this to keep the ceiling sheets in place and avoid cracks.
I recently renovated my entire cabin starting from the ground and working my way up because I decided not to use drywall on the ceiling. Instead, I will be using blue pine. Doing it this way made it much simpler, especially since I was working alone and could use the lower sheets as support for the higher ones.
Is looking great. What tool did you use for cutting drywall?
Just use a basic carpenter’s knife with a sharp blade. You just have to cut through the paper to make it snap easily.
When it comes to baseboards and crown molding, I don’t think the direction matters much. Working from the bottom up may be simpler, but starting from the top creates a clean transition from the wall to the ceiling. This is only a concern in my opinion if crown molding isn’t part of the plan.
🙄
Starting from the top is a breeze. Leaving a 1/4″ space around the ceiling sheets allows the wall sheets to cover it seamlessly. Likewise, a 1/4″ gap at the bottom of the wall sheets is concealed by the floor moulding. With these allowances, cutting and installing the sheets becomes a piece of cake, they practically put themselves up there! 😉
When working with square sets, remember to start from the top and work your way down, as well as from the bottom to the top when using cornice.
Start working from the top and go downwards. A wall is 8 feet and one-quarter inch tall when using pre-cut studs. Adding that measurement up will explain why beginning at the top is necessary.
I wouldn’t want to be the one finishing the job for you.
I learned to begin at the top so you can push it snug against the ceiling, eliminating gaps. Starting from the top is simpler and more secure.
The next section on the wall is supporting the ceiling in that direction
Can hold it up in either direction
Ceiling piece, floor piece, the piece that connects the ceiling. The second piece supports the heavier one. I phrased it strangely because you need to install the ceiling first, then the floor, and finally the heavy piece.
You place the sheet on top of the other one as if it were a shelf. Attach a single screw that is hanging off the drill on your belt. It can be done by just one person.
Start from the top and secure with a screw at the opposite end. Use a wonder bar or hammer to secure the bottom.
We always work from the bottom up in this area. It results in fewer gaps, needing minimal putty or ‘mud’ as you call it in North America. The interlocking edges of drywall, or gypsum board as we refer to it, create a concealed seam.
Interlocking drywall? That’s a new one for me!
I believe he is referring to the ‘tapered’ edges aligning.
I totally disagree. There is nothing interlocking about it. 😆
The edges of plasterboard are slightly unique in Korea
Oh, I’m curious to see their appearance.
I personally don’t see the logic in beginning at the top…there’s really no valid reason for it other than someone mistakenly believed they couldn’t secure the top pieces snugly against the ceiling if they didn’t tackle them first. However, it’s definitely possible and much simpler to do so.
In my experience, all the professionals I’ve collaborated with have started from the bottom, leaving about a half-inch gap at the lower end, and the panels were mounted horizontally.
First row is crucial for holding up the ceiling, while the second row is placed directly on top of it. Any gaps at the bottom are concealed with trim.
I’m not sure what it’s called, but my dad always referred to it as “Sh**rock” while he was hanging it up. He also had a foot “wedge” that he would use to prop up the bottom board while he nailed it in place.
I usually start with the bottom, but some people say starting with the ceiling gives a better fit. It’s okay if the bottom is a bit short because the trim will cover it up.
When you start from the top, you can easily fit full sheets up there and any cuts will be hidden by baseboards or placed low to the ground. It’s also easier to measure the finish piece when you’re close to the ground instead of being up on a ladder. And if your measurements are slightly off, you won’t have to struggle holding the rock above your head while cutting it. But remember, it’s all about personal preference.
Believes it’s not just a preference; it’s actually a higher quality product!
Make sure to always start from the top and work your way down when hanging drywall. Most houses have walls that are over 8 feet tall, so you don’t want to have a lot of joints in the middle of the wall. Your drywall finisher will thank you for it! 😄
For a cleaner look, the smallest gap should begin at the top. The baseboard trim can hide any imperfections at the bottom.
I chose to do it that way because I prefer having drywall cuts hidden behind baseboards rather than in the corners. Additionally, the tops are slightly thinner to accommodate the buildup of mud.
I can’t wait for someone to invent a way to skip the whole taping and mudding process. It requires much more patience and skill than I possess.
Applies a bit of mud to the screw holes and seams, then uses knock down to cover up imperfections. It requires very little sanding, but it’s not as popular as it once was.
Make sure to start installing the top piece tightly against the sheets on the ceiling, rather than from the bottom. Using a drywall lift or some scrap lumber can make starting from the top much easier. Elevate or shim the piece enough to secure two or three drywall screws, then finish by screwing around the perimeter and across the field.
Yeah, I was actually thinking about using scrap wood for shelf support. If you space them correctly, one piece of wood can hold two sheets before having to readjust.
Being able to read a tape measure is all that matters 👍
Provide edge support to the sheets that are already in place on the ceiling – it’s a crucial step. If you prefer to avoid cracked joints, follow this process.
Start with the factory edge against the ceiling and cut edge against the floor, then cover it with base trim.
Could I switch up my initial question? Why doesn’t anyone hang the drywall vertically around here?
Some people believe that vertical seams are more difficult to mud, but it really depends on the wall. In my situation, I have walls that are 15′ x 16′ with windows. So, I decided to hang some sheets vertically in order to minimize the number of seams.
Does a great job of making seams blend in better. It also helps to add some extra support to the framing, making it easier to make adjustments if the sheet doesn’t break on a stud.
Let’s use the example of a room that is 8 feet tall and 12 feet wide. If you use 2 horizontal boards, you only have one seam. However, if you use 3 8-foot boards to span 12 feet, you will have 3 seams and they will be vertical, so you will have overhead and low work. Additionally, the price difference between an 8-foot board and a 12-foot board is not that significant, so you may end up spending more money on rock, and possibly mud and tape, depending on how you finish the project.