Which staining method is recommended for Oak kitchen cabinets: pre-treatment with gel stain or liquid stain applied with a brush, sponge, or cloth?
Asked by Suzy Gonzalez 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 31, 2024
I just got my kitchen cabinets, they’re Oak and all set for staining. Can you lend a hand? Should I use a pre-treatment? Do you think Gel stain is better than liquid stain? And what’s the best way to apply it – brush, sponge, or cloth?
I’ve never used gel stain and have heard mixed reviews about it. My advice is to stick with traditional Stain – you can brush it on and wipe it down with a cloth for a smooth finish.
Once it’s finished, it’s going to look great! What did you end up using on the ceiling?
Pre-treatment is key for a consistent finish. Opt for regular stain over gel, as gel is better suited for finishing on top of polyurethane rather than penetrating the wood. It’s especially useful for transitioning from a lighter to a darker color without sanding.
Always make sure to apply a wood conditioner for even coverage. I’ve tried both types of stain and the only notable difference is the application process – liquid stain can get messy, while gel stains are more controlled.
Personally, I find that using a rag with liquid stain – particularly water-based – is the way to go. Oil-based stains take longer to cure before you can seal them with poly (I suggest a water-based matte finish).
Just curious, why is the vent hood placed higher than the other wall cabinets?
For a professional finish, I recommend using a wood conditioner followed by three coats of satin Minwax Polyshades.
For my custom cabinet installations, I highly recommend using Waterlox along with an oil-based stain. Prestain is not necessary for hardwoods, only for softwoods like pine. I usually apply the stain with a lint-free cloth, rubbing with the grain. Typically, one coat of stain is sufficient, but if I want a richer color, I mix waterlox original with the stain for another coat. You can adjust the mix to achieve the desired color tone. Apply this second coat only after the first one is completely dry. Waterlox alone can also serve as a finish. The gloss increases with each coat, but for the final coat, I usually opt for waterlox finish/sealer in satin or gloss, depending on personal preference. Unlike polyurethane, this finish doesn’t require sanding for touch-ups in case of scratches – just clean and reapply. It’s that simple! They also offer marine waterlox, which I’ve successfully used on exterior wood doors. Make sure to test the color and mix on a scrap piece of the same wood species before applying to your cabinets.
Like Allen mentioned, you really don’t need a conditioner for oak. The best approach is to spray on the stain, but if you don’t have a sprayer, brushing it on and then wiping with a rag works too. Spraying gives more even coverage, so if applying by hand, be extra cautious. eneral Finishes Enduro Clear Poly is one of the top choices for finishing.