What’s the best way to remove grout when re-caulking a shower, and do I need to remove all the grout to properly seal it?
Asked by Oguzhan Jongerden 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 27, 2024
The people who renovated our master bathroom did a really sloppy job with the tiles in the shower and on the floor. I’m currently on vacation, so I thought I’d replace the caulk because there’s a gap that could lead to water damage. Turns out, they didn’t even use caulk, just grout in the corners and where the walls meet the floor. I’m wondering, what’s the best way to remove the grout so I can apply caulk? Do I need to get rid of all the grout to do this?
Update: Thanks for all the advice, everyone! Opinions are divided on the grout situation, but I decided to remove it since it was looking pretty awful anyway. If I mess up the caulking, at least it’ll be easier to fix! 😜
You can use a razor blade, small flat head screwdriver, and hammer.
Just use a flathead to scrape it off. There’s also a grout removal tool that can help with the process. Try to remove as much as possible, but it’s okay if some remains. Personally, I prefer sanded caulk as it resembles grout more.
That grout work is looking pretty shabby.
Oh man, , it’s really bad! I had them redo it once and it was still terrible. I just couldn’t stand it anymore and wanted them to leave my house!
I totally understand. It’s surprising how many tile contractors overlook caulking the corners.
If the surface appears that way, I wonder how it is underneath. You might as well wait for the water damage.
Fortunately, there is a reliable custom-ordered pan underneath and a different (competent) contractor handled everything else except for the tiling. That’s why I’m keen on addressing these seams to prevent any water seepage.
That grout job appears to be at least 20 years old. The floor looks like it was installed by someone with very limited capabilities. I would consider seeking a refund.
I really wish they did a better job on my shower – it’s not exactly brand new (3 years old) but I agree with your assessment. It doesn’t look too bad from afar, which is why I’ve been able to tolerate it for this long. The shower installation was quite expensive, so a complete redo is not in the plans right now.
Hey, just a heads up, make sure every corner, whether it’s vertical or horizontal, gets caulked. You don’t have to remove all the caulk, just ensure it’s clear from areas where it touches the tile to avoid leaks. By the way, those tiles seem like glass, so avoid using sanded caulk as it might scratch them.
Definitely consider requesting a refund for any funds you have already paid out. Usually, you can obtain written estimates detailing the work that needs to be done, which can be advantageous if you end up having to take legal action. This will also provide you with some figures to mull over before making a decision on whether to tackle the task yourself. If you do decide to go for it, make sure you have a good dremel tool handy! 😬
Did they install a new shower pan under all that? Personally, I would consider tearing out the floor to avoid potential costly issues down the line.
No, there is a solid custom pan underneath. These clowns only handled the tile work. A meticulous contractor took care of everything else before falling ill.
Phew, impressive!
Mix bleach and vinegar in a spray bottle for an inexpensive surface cleaner. Spray, let it sit, and then wipe it off. It might be beneficial to remove some of the grout so the silicone can fill in any gaps. To achieve the best results, you could use masking tape for clean lines with silicone. Otherwise, apply the silicone, spray with washing up liquid, and then smooth it out for a neat finish.
You could use a box cutter or Dremel with a flat blade to scrape it out. It’s really easy to remove. Just remember to use a dry cleaning brush to clear out all the dust, then wipe it with isopropyl alcohol to dry it. Finally, seal it with silicone.
Grab a heat gun and make sure everything is completely clean and dry before applying 100 percent silicone. 😉
Have you thought about reaching out to the contractors to come and fix their subpar work at no cost?
If the shower lining/pan is installed properly, you won’t need caulk on a tile floor. And if it’s not installed correctly, putting caulk there won’t make a difference and will just prolong the issue.
The suggestion to caulk the bottom of a wall is more relevant for a full tub, where there is greater potential to move against the tile.
You know, it’s best not to have grout on corners, floors, and ceilings. You can try using a grout saw to smooth it out. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should have some depth for the caulk so the bead isn’t too wide.
Any corners in wet areas absolutely require 100% silicone caulk. You can find caulk that matches any commercial grout color available. To remove it, you can scrape it with a screwdriver or a grout saw. You don’t have to remove it all, just do your best.
Removing the grout may not be necessary. This is the current stage of our shower. A professional tile installer, who is a good friend, completed the job. Grout is in place in all corners and between each tile. Tomorrow, he will return to apply silicone to the corners. I taped the seams with a 1/4”+ gap between the tape. After applying the silicone caulk that matches the grout, it will be ready for use. Simply apply silicone to the edges of the grout and you should be all set. It might be a good idea to consult the installer for any potential warranty concerns. Making any changes on your own could void the warranty. Best of luck!
Just wanted to show you the taping I did for a visual. Silicone caulk can get messy so this simplifies things.
Your shower needs to be waterproofed before tiling regardless. That must have been a terrible job; I dread to think what’s hidden behind…
I specialize in shower installations and I never apply caulk inside showers. First, I use epoxy grout…
When filling in the gaps between the shower floor and tile edge, I apply grout first and then use 100% silicone once it’s dry. Make sure to use silicone in the corners as well, from bottom to top.
When it comes to grout repairs, I find this particular tool to be quite useful. I also recommend using a multi-tool with an abrasive flat blade.
No need for caulk in this situation. It would have been better if they had used epoxy grout, but it’s possible that they did.
I’ve never applied caulk in a shower pan before. It’s essential to waterproof and grout the shower for various reasons.
Either a razor blade or a grout diamond triangle tool can get the job done. Afterward, vacuum, clean, and apply silicone or grout caulk. A popsicle stick can help create a neat bead.
It appears that there is already silicone between the floor and the walls.