What size joists should I sister to the ceiling to provide support after removing a wall near the rafter tails in this semi load-bearing area?
I posted a while ago about getting input on whether or not to remove an interior wall. After two contractors said it wasn’t holding anything up, we started taking it down. Now I’m starting to worry that maybe it was kind of holding something up. The roof framing doesn’t seem to be connected to the interior vault. I’m not totally sure what that means, but I don’t think it’s super important to the overall framing of the house. The only thing that wall was holding up was a fake beam and some ceiling drywall. The beam is just for looks and to support the rafters holding up the ceiling drywall. Under the trim, the beam is just two 2x8s.
I’m thinking about attaching some 2x10s or 2x12s to the nearest ceiling joists to give some support where the wall used to be. Do you think that’ll be enough, or should I go with an lvl beam?
The span is 14 feet.
I’m trying to figure out how to fit a 2×12 or 2×10 near the end of the wall by the rafter tails. How much material can I take out of that area? It’s marked in red in the
It looks like you already have some beans running along the roof line that could be strengthened with a truss system. By placing a temporary support post under the central beam at the peak, you could eliminate all the vertical 2x4s in the plastic sheeting area and create a truss system that connects to the existing beams on the ceiling – without the need for a large horizontal beam. I’m not a structural engineer, so take my suggestion with a grain of salt.
Another benefit of doing something like this is the ability to easily slide larger items into that space for storage instead of just closing it off with drywall
Has a great idea. It could definitely work
Just ensure all work is done on one level and avoid attaching to the front, use metal truss plates similar to those in prefabricated units
So, if I understand correctly… I would double up some 2x10s to create a beam at the bottom of that gable end. You could attach it to the face if you don’t want it below the ceiling. I’d also add posts next to the outer wall for extra support. It sounds similar to what I’m doing in my own house – adding an lvl ridge beam and turning it into a full vault. Just make sure to follow the recommendations.
I believe my ceiling joists will prevent the walls from separating. Initially, I was thinking of attaching additional 2x10s or 2x12s to the existing ceiling joist to increase the surface area and extend it to the end of the faux beam, replacing the current door header that supports the faux beam.
However, it seems like you’re suggesting tying into the existing roof rafters to provide support for the faux beam instead of sistering to the ceiling joists?
Taking a look at this picture, I notice a vaulted ceiling… without any visible ceiling joists. I’m wondering how they managed to construct an internal gable end without proper support underneath. So, I would recommend adding support where I marked in red.
That’s currently the plan. The room in my picture has ceiling joists on both sides of the vaulted ceiling. This is the only room in my home with a vaulted ceiling.
It’s hard to determine much from just a picture. Two contractors said it’s not load-bearing. A load-bearing wall supports the structure of the house, while other walls just separate rooms. The center beam should run from gable end to gable end, connected to a post system for support. If you’re concerned about the structural integrity, consult a structural engineer for a professional opinion.
Hey, , thanks for the info. The beam in the photo only supports the ceiling drywall (basically) and it doesn’t extend throughout my entire home. I have a separate ridge beam that supports my roof rafters, completely independent of what you see in the picture.
Hey, , do you think this wall might be supporting the faux beam? Or is it attached to the structural beam holding up the roof? If it’s the latter, you probably won’t have any problems, but again, I’m just basing this on one photo. The best way to know for sure is to have a structural engineer check it out or trust the contractors who have inspected it in person.
I noticed that the faux beam is secured to the main ridge beam
Adding a double 2×10 or double 2×12 horizontally across the entire span is a solid plan, especially considering there is no roof bearing. The drywall and ceiling weight could cause sagging over time.
Make sure the member you add has at least 1-1/2” bearing on your stud top plates, but aim for the full 3-1/2” if you can.
Of course, make sure to include extra studs at the ends of the walls beneath the new double ceiling joist
Yeah and yes, appreciate it
Oh no! Do you experience snow or strong winds in your area?
If there are trusses above the finished ceiling, the weight is supported by each truss. For safety, check the current “webs” and add more if necessary. You can also walk on the roof to see if there is any movement in the finished ceiling.
When it comes to the relationship between a roof and an exterior wall, there are different forces at play. For instance, there’s the downward force from the roof and snow load during winter. Additionally, there are forces pushing outward on the bottom of the roof joists, exerting pressure on the external walls. This is something worth considering.
I think the scissor vault beam might be fake…do you know if the roof is supported on the sides?
Hey, quick question: Do you know which direction the ceiling rafters in the room at the back, under the lower ceiling, run? Left to right across the photo or front to back?
You know, maybe it would have been better to hire a structural engineer for $400 instead of asking contractors. That way, you’d have a professional sign off on a recommended procedure and be insured for mishaps.
Hey, , I looked for about a month and couldn’t find anyone. The only person who called me back wanted $1000. Lessons learned, I guess. The only thing I’ve done so far that could affect the structural integrity is removing one wall stud. I immediately noticed the problem and stopped.