I’ve been hanging doors for 45 years now, and I have to say that Birren’s post really resonates with me. Adjusting the jamb where the hinges are located is key to getting the door to sit properly and close smoothly. Make sure to nail off that part of the jamb first before moving on to the other side. Once that’s done, use a drywall knife to score and remove the door stop, replacing it with a new one that fits snugly against the door. You may need to make your own door stop if necessary. When installing the new door stop, be mindful not to place it too close to the hinge side to prevent the door from binding. On the lock side, ensure that the door stop is tight at the top and bottom, leaving a slight gap in the middle where the latch is located for some play without causing any rattling.
Might be heading for trouble with the door not being straight in my opinion… Tinkering with the alignment of a door can be risky. Using clamps to force it can lead to problems down the road. There’s a significant gap that should be addressed more carefully.
Seems to have noticed that the gap is between the frame and the trim. Pressing the trim will not impact the jamb, which I believe is already securely in place and level. Loose trim can be fixed easily, unless the frame was installed incorrectly.
Caitlin Willis
3 months ago
You can keep the hinge side jamb and replace the extension jamb on the other side, then trim it.
Most likely lives in an older house with plaster and lath that has been covered with sheetrock… I have never come across a ready-made jamb suitable for it.
Unless you’re willing to shell out more for a custom option
Soila Lima
3 months ago
Remove the trim from the side without the hinge and put up the door/frame without the trim. After that, cut some pine (or another type of wood) to fit the gap’s width and add an extension jamb. Check out this video (not the greatest but it gets the point across) that demonstrates how to make and install one. Avoid placing the extension jamb on the side with the hinge. Best of luck… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7hIh3UmHb8
The video covers most of it. Remember, you don’t have to connect the extension jamb and molding together. Simply attach the extension jamb to the jamb, nail it, and then add the casing. You’re all set.
Milja Huhtala
3 months ago
The jam pieces are used to hide the hole in the wall. The skinny piece is not a hinge. The white part of my door is where the hinge is, while the unpleasant cream color is the door stopper. The rest of the jam, which is wider, can be seen on the other side.
Ratko TasiΔ
3 months ago
It’s incredible how many terrible ideas there are out there. The correct way is to hang the door sideways and fasten it through the trim. Shim the casing all around and trim down some prime 1x4x8 to fit the top first, followed by both sides. After that, you can use the trim that originally came on your pre-hung door casing but couldn’t be used, on the new casing instead.
Unfortunately, those doors are not the best quality as they come in two separate pieces. One option is to remove the trim from one side, connect the two pieces, add an extension jam, and then put the trim back on. Alternatively, you could make things simpler by using a thin piece of wood to cover the gap.
SlaΔana VidiΔ
3 months ago
You could use flat molding strips as a solution.
Sarah Roberts
3 months ago
Remove the casing and attach an extension to the jamb.
They sell a 1 1/2 1/4 inch strip at Lowe’s or Home Depot for trimming and caulking, making it an easy fix
Eleonora Bezkorovayniy
3 months ago
Secure the door jamb by adding a small piece of trim to extend and conceal it
Davi Freitas
3 months ago
Are you referring to the significant gap in the center? It seems that you still need to complete nailing the trim/casing to the edge of the jamb on the left, am I right?
Swap out the current door stop with a broader one.
Birren here, just wanted to say thank you because I’m new to this!
I’ve been hanging doors for 45 years now, and I have to say that Birren’s post really resonates with me. Adjusting the jamb where the hinges are located is key to getting the door to sit properly and close smoothly. Make sure to nail off that part of the jamb first before moving on to the other side. Once that’s done, use a drywall knife to score and remove the door stop, replacing it with a new one that fits snugly against the door. You may need to make your own door stop if necessary. When installing the new door stop, be mindful not to place it too close to the hinge side to prevent the door from binding. On the lock side, ensure that the door stop is tight at the top and bottom, leaving a slight gap in the middle where the latch is located for some play without causing any rattling.
Simply squeeze down with bar lamps or something similar, nail it to the stud behind, countersink, spackle, and paint it
Might be heading for trouble with the door not being straight in my opinion… Tinkering with the alignment of a door can be risky. Using clamps to force it can lead to problems down the road. There’s a significant gap that should be addressed more carefully.
Makes a great point. In construction, you should never try to force things – they need to fit perfectly.
Seems to have noticed that the gap is between the frame and the trim. Pressing the trim will not impact the jamb, which I believe is already securely in place and level. Loose trim can be fixed easily, unless the frame was installed incorrectly.
You can keep the hinge side jamb and replace the extension jamb on the other side, then trim it.
There are many ways to fill in gaps with caulk.
At first glance, I didn’t notice it… but you can hide it with trim, using a wider piece to act as a door stop or by adding to the existing door stop
Another option is to remove the trim from one side, build out the jamb, and then reattach the trim
Secure it all in place with nails and then attach a flat trim molding over the gap without impacting the door on the other side
If the door swing allows, use a small piece of trim for installation
Honestly, I’m not sure if we should cover it or repair it.
Make sure to get the correct one.
Most likely lives in an older house with plaster and lath that has been covered with sheetrock… I have never come across a ready-made jamb suitable for it.
Might want to consider looking into other size options unless he prefers the widest one.
Is without a doubt residing in an older home from the 1940s.
They offer options for two different sizes, walls framed with 2×4 and 2×6
Unless you’re willing to shell out more for a custom option
Remove the trim from the side without the hinge and put up the door/frame without the trim. After that, cut some pine (or another type of wood) to fit the gap’s width and add an extension jamb. Check out this video (not the greatest but it gets the point across) that demonstrates how to make and install one. Avoid placing the extension jamb on the side with the hinge. Best of luck… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7hIh3UmHb8
Is definitely the way to go π
Adjust the closer by moving it 3/32″?
I’m grateful for all the helpful comments! I’m new to the world of DIY.
The video covers most of it. Remember, you don’t have to connect the extension jamb and molding together. Simply attach the extension jamb to the jamb, nail it, and then add the casing. You’re all set.
The jam pieces are used to hide the hole in the wall. The skinny piece is not a hinge. The white part of my door is where the hinge is, while the unpleasant cream color is the door stopper. The rest of the jam, which is wider, can be seen on the other side.
It’s incredible how many terrible ideas there are out there. The correct way is to hang the door sideways and fasten it through the trim. Shim the casing all around and trim down some prime 1x4x8 to fit the top first, followed by both sides. After that, you can use the trim that originally came on your pre-hung door casing but couldn’t be used, on the new casing instead.
Unfortunately, those doors are not the best quality as they come in two separate pieces. One option is to remove the trim from one side, connect the two pieces, add an extension jam, and then put the trim back on. Alternatively, you could make things simpler by using a thin piece of wood to cover the gap.
You could use flat molding strips as a solution.
Remove the casing and attach an extension to the jamb.
That would also work for .
Just grab a few 3″ drywall screws to fix it.
Fill the extension jamb with filler material
They sell a 1 1/2 1/4 inch strip at Lowe’s or Home Depot for trimming and caulking, making it an easy fix
Secure the door jamb by adding a small piece of trim to extend and conceal it
Are you referring to the significant gap in the center? It seems that you still need to complete nailing the trim/casing to the edge of the jamb on the left, am I right?
Is right. My main concern is the gap. Dealing with the trim is not difficult.