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What primer or base coat will effectively cover and seal tar residue on my kitchen floor so I can paint and stencil it without bleed-through?

Asked by Vicente de Jesús
4 months ago
Last Updated: August 2, 2024

I’m on the hunt for a base coat or primer to paint the floors in my house. The photo I have isn’t the best, but trust me, the rest of the room looks way better now, except for the floors. We’ve been peeling back layers of flooring in our 85-year-old house to reveal the original hardwood in the kitchen, but I just can’t seem to fully remove this tar residue. I’m seriously considering giving up and just painting and stenciling the floor instead. I have a favorite brand I like to use (Heirloom Traditions All-In-One), but I’m worried about how to seal the tar without it bleeding through. We’ve tried everything from strippers to sanders, but nothing seems to work, and I’m at my wit’s end. My husband is disabled, and physically I can’t keep fighting this battle. Can anyone recommend a product that will cover and seal the tar so I can finally paint over it? Thanks in advance.

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Katie Holmes

Do you think it’s possible to hire someone to sand the floor for us?

Annabelle Jones

Grab a heat gun and start scraping haha. You’ll be amazed at how much you can remove with that heat gun. 

Annabelle Jones

And make sure to grab one of these pull scrapers, it’s much better than pushing a scraper. Plus, it does a more effective job. Just get some extra blades because you might need them quickly with all that tar. 

Annabelle Jones

Definitely grab this heat gun 

Annabelle Jones

Someone mentioned using a propane torch… Please don’t do that haha, you should use a heat gun to avoid starting a fire 

Annabelle Jones

Remember to engage your shoulder strength when pulling and be cautious of straining your wrist and elbow when pushing 👍

Lucas Johnson

I’ve found that an old steam iron and a damp cloth actually work better for this task

Elsie Andrews

Have you considered using Tar remover?

Victoria Soto

For fun, you could try using some Lestoil. If it’s tar-based, it may be effective without affecting your sense of smell.

Elsie Andrews

I’d consider using a product designed for tar.

Arthur Ennis

Your best bet might be to cover it with something you can paint. Additionally, have you attempted heating it with a torch and scraping it off? I know it sounds risky, but that’s what I would do, haha

Alexis Rhodes

Have you thought about vinyl plank flooring? There are some beautiful options that are affordable and easy to install, priced at less than $2 per square foot.

Octavio Cornejo

For vinyl plank, perfection isn’t necessary. It’s flexible. Just add adhesive to the badly unlevel spots

Brielle White

You can just get some peel and stick tiles and add extra adhesive, or use adhesive with regular vinyl tiles. Just lay them down. The ideal solution would be to redo the flooring for a perfect result, but this is a quick and easy option that will likely last for years. Buy affordable tiles and give it a shot! Test it out in a closet first.

Mariana Galván

Forget the hassle and go for carpet! Even artificial turf would be an improvement over the current flooring.

Bobby Gilbert

You can’t seal it with the remaining backing glued to the hardwood floors. Use luan sheets under the vinyl plank flooring instead

Bobby Gilbert

Hopefully the layers of flooring you removed weren’t asbestos from 85 years ago. It’s likely that they were! Stay safe.

Bobby Gilbert

Maybe you should focus more on what you breathed in while removing the flooring…

Bobby Gilbert

I’m not exactly sure what you mean by seal it? If it were up to me, I’d go with either luan or 1/4 plywood first, then put down luxury vinyl planks…

Bobby Gilbert

Hope you’re doing well… cover that floor with luan and install vinyl planks.

Bobby Gilbert

You shouldn’t seal it with all that tar and adhesive… cover it up with luan and lay down vinyl planks instead.

Bobby Gilbert

Check out this floor I leveled and put down vinyl planks on.

Evan Gregory

Consider tiling over it

Victor Silva

She mentioned that she has attempted that before.

Evan Gregory

I’d suggest applying a leveling floor paint.

Caroline Lambert

If you’re looking to paint, try this product. It doesn’t need priming but you should still clean the surface first. Not sure if your usual prep work will do the job? Take a photo and ask the experts. This paint is perfect for cabinets, furniture, floors, showers, lights, and hardware. It’s the All-In-One Paint by Heirloom Traditions roup

Arlene Howell

Sealing it won’t work. It will keep bleeding through. You need to use at least 1/8” plywood and staple it thoroughly. Alternatively, you can try using diesel or kerosene. Remember, it takes oil to remove oil. You’ve come this far, so go the extra mile.

Tracy Jensen

Before skim coating, I recommend trying an Industrial Adhesive Remover like ood-one or Zep Citrus.

Lola Carpenter

I used a scraper/chisel and a hammer to remove the paint. I painted it black with porch paint. I’ll need to apply another coat because of the dogs, but I’m satisfied with the results overall!

Lola Carpenter

Finished

Martha Burton

It might be safest to leave it alone in case there are harmful substances like asbestos or other chemicals. How about laying down a thin plywood sheet that will require sanding before priming and painting the floor. I really enjoy the look of painted planks. I even created faux lines to imitate that style in my kitchen.

Martha Burton

Here’s a little trick for the lines: rab a pencil and ruler or straight edge (it doesn’t have to be perfect at all!). Use them to create your guidelines and then paint over them by hand. Natural planks are not perfect, so the pencil lines just serve as a guide. Another option instead of painting over the pencil lines is to use a Sharpie, but make sure to test the color in an inconspicuous spot first. Black can be very stark, so I opted for a brown paint (before I discovered the Sharpie idea). It’s a simple process, but you’ll find yourself on the floor like a kid working on the lines. I recommend using an old pillow for your knees and butt because the floor can be tough. Finish it off with clear coats. Light traffic is okay after a few days, but it’s best to let it cure for at least a week before placing heavy items on it (even longer if possible). Personally, I waited a couple of days, dragged in the fridge, and ended up with a drag mark that I just couldn’t fully erase.

Daniel Campbell

I would suggest tiling or flooring it with hardwood, LVP, or cork. Dealing with chemicals or heavy-duty sanding is just too much work. I’ve been in this situation a few times myself. Best of luck! Keep us posted on your progress!

Josephine Campbell

The best choice would be to have it resanded. Sanding is an option, but I get that you’re tired of it. If there’s enough wood left, it’s a cost-effective and speedy solution. Avoid using any chemicals or strippers. My top recommendation is to cover it with a high-quality, waterproof floating floor (not just water resistant). There are some good options available. I personally don’t like any of them, but they serve a purpose. Another, pricier alternative is to put in pre-finished flooring.

Manuel Naranjo

I’m relieved to hear that I’m not alone in disliking these floors. It seems like everyone else adores them, but I just can’t seem to share the sentiment. I do recognize that there are specific situations where they can be beneficial, but I’m puzzled by the widespread love for them. It appears that these floors might fall into the category where a floating floor could be a better fit. I suspect that removing that tar would be more costly than installing new flooring.

Mabel Armstrong

Your best option seems to be covering it with thin plywood…and customizing it with paint. This approach will give you the aesthetic appeal you desire now, and it will also be easier to remove when you’re prepared to address the original floors properly. Lay them down, paint them, and get creative with stencils!!! Afterwards, show us so we can give you a thumbs up emoji!

Erin Carroll
Ellie Edwards

Most likely, this is asbestos mastic, so it’s a significant issue to address. I’d suggest placing something over it to conceal it, such as a thin subfloor layer, and then go from there.

Antonio Velásquez

☝🏻this! 100% Mastic

Stacy Turner

We ended up taking it off with a heat gun and scraper. It was a lot of work, but definitely a labor of love.

Yolanda Jackson

I used the adhesive remover in a different way, but I had a smaller area to work on. I would move the congealed glob each day to cover a new spot. Since I was working on a closet floor, I could close it off while working. I used a no-fume stripper, so it wasn’t very strong.

John Castro

I heard that Home Depot sells peel and stick vinyl tile for a good price. I think it was around $40 for a box. We used it in our bathroom until we could redo the floors. We only needed about a box and a half for our large area, and it looks like marble!

John Castro

Putting on some paint was definitely a much easier option

John Castro

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Lucas Johnson

How about trying an old steam iron and placing a wet towel down to steam and scrape off the tar? It’s slow and tedious, but I think it could work. Otherwise, we might just put vinyl down over it.

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