What is the most efficient method for patching drywall after a complete house rewire – using 1x behind each hole with saved round cutouts or cutting the holes square to adjacent studs for larger pieces?
Asked by Sharissa Elenbaas 
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 21, 2024
Hey, I could use some advice. We recently had our entire house rewired and the electricians had to cut holes to fish the Romex. The guy saved all the round cutouts. Do you think it would be easier to patch the drywall by putting a 1x behind each hole and reusing the round cutouts, or should we cut the holes square or out to adjacent studs and put in a larger piece?
It truly comes down to your skill level. The upside is, after practicing enough, you’ll become a pro at smoothing out the mud
Place the flawless circles back where they belong
I usually insert 1x and then reattach the circular shapes
I typically reach for this product when I need to patch something up. Really a fan of this type of product.
No content
I frequently use these, the adhesive metal patch is really good
Oh absolutely I’m a big fan of them! The outcome was very impressive and it simplified things a lot!
It definitely makes life a lot easier haha.
I recently used 2 of these during a job last Friday.
If they’re still in good condition, just recycle them.
1x and circular shapes
Hey there! Remember, all wiring should be stapled every 16 inches to comply with code and maintain your home insurance. It’s a good idea to inform your insurer and keep a written reply for your records. The underwriters from the insurance company may have additional requirements.
This is not accurate. Check out this code – it can differ between states, but it is the same as Mass https://www.thespruce.com/receptacle-boxes-and-cable-installation-code-1152806
Hey Terry! Just wanted to mention that it’s not really needed to anchor the wire when pulling new wire into a finished wall cavity. The main reason for anchoring the wire is to keep it out of the way when hanging drywall. You should anchor the wire at points of entry and at the junction box or outlet box. But tearing out the whole wall or ceiling just to secure the wiring in a finished wall space is not necessary. 😊
Hey, for new projects, I agree with you. But for rework like this, I don’t think that’s necessary. However, it’s good to have some form of securing in place.
Hey there! When dealing with new construction, what you’re saying is true. But for existing construction, they’d need to cut out the whole bay to staple it every sixteen inches. So, putting in a receptacle would end up costing over $500. Totally not a feasible option. Insurance companies won’t be able to see behind the drywall.
So the main issue here is actually ‘evidence’.
Insurance fraud occurs when there is an increase in risk without prior written approval. Many Mobsters, businessmen, and homeowners are charged criminally and civilly for this every year. Make sure to educate yourself.
Did you actually read what you sent? There isn’t a single mention of retrofitting existing buildings in it. Not a word 😂.
Which proof are you referring to?
A skilled drywaller can fix those holes so well that you wouldn’t even notice the wall was touched.
Asking your insurance for approval is like asking if you can go pee behind your house, not very hygienic but a common practice. Do you see my point?
It’s not a big deal and is done frequently even by the most reputable electricians
Hey, , you need a permit for this. Just a heads up, if you’re insured, you should tell your insurer before changing the risk. Insurers have the right to check out any property and assess the risk themselves, no matter where you are. So, why didn’t you know that?
I’m not following what you’re saying. Rewiring older houses is a common occurrence, especially when they have knob and tube wiring that insurance companies are requesting to be fixed. Additionally, many of these older houses have plaster and lathe walls, making it even more challenging to replace the wiring. Cities typically don’t require homeowners to completely gut their houses just to replace dangerous wiring.
I think it’s no big deal. My name is Karen.
Mentioned that while insurance companies can be helpful, they may not be able to detect issues behind drywall or open up walls. Sometimes, it seems like insurance companies are only focused on getting their money and not paying out claims. For example, I had a situation where the insurance company insisted that each panel needed a 100 amp breaker, even though the service into the panels was actually 200 amps. Everything was up to code with 60 amp mains, but the insurance company still refused to accept it. They also tried to insist that a roof, which was only 10 years old and had a 25-30 year warranty, needed to be replaced. It can be frustrating dealing with insurance companies when they don’t seem to care about the facts.
Was born in 1970?
Absolutely! I’ve been doing that since 2003 during Home Inspections!
You’re just 25 years behind, my friend.
New models allow me to determine the number of screws, whether there are 2 or 3 conductors, which one of the 14/3 is drawing power, how far away the conductors are from the back of the GWB, and much more.
You’re not part of the program.
If the homeowner is the one who paid you, it’s their call on whether you can do it. Just imagine if you inspected a house for an insurance company and decided to break into a wall without the owner’s okay – both you and the insurance company would probably end up in court dealing with damages. So, if I’m 25 years old, you must be 85 then!
It was mentioned that there is no requirement to demolish walls as depicted.
What a fool.
Yeah, that’s how I interpreted it as well.
Just a reminder, ‘s new work does not need to be stapled. The staple is there to prevent the drywallers from accidentally pinching the wire, but it is not necessary once the drywall is up and a rewire has been completed.
I believe the insurance company prefers the new electrical wire over the old one.
Is not available for remodels.
The people who are usually the loudest in the room are often the most wrong…
Try getting a hole saw that matches the size of the hole he cut. Use it to drill out a new piece of drywall, add wood behind it, and you’re done!
Mentioned that he saved the round cutouts.
There are countless tutorials online showing how to accomplish this task. Some are slightly easier than others, while others yield slightly better results. Based on my own experience, the key factors are skill and patience.
I recommend reusing the drywall that was removed by the electrician. Why throw it away for no reason?
Attach a wooden block behind the drywall and reuse the old pieces. Then proceed with taping, mudding, adding texture, and painting.
Next time, show them how to create holes without using a hole saw. Lazy people rely on that tool.
Use a multi-tool to cut into the wall at a 45-degree angle towards the center of the hole. This technique creates a plug effect. Use a knife to remove any excess material, mud the rim of the plug, and press it onto the mud. Let it dry without the need for screws or paint stirrer backing.
Then proceed with taping, smoothing, adding texture, and painting.
If you simply put back the hole plugs, they might fall in or require extra work with backer pieces and screws.
Alternatively, the best solution would have been to realize the lack of insulation in the exterior wall, remove all drywall, rewire, insulate, and then reinstall the drywall – even though it’s more expensive and labor-intensive, it will be beneficial for your utility bills in the long run. I have personally completed this process room by room in my house, and now 75% of my house is insulated, resulting in 25% lower heating and cooling bills. I could also adjust the plugs as needed.
Best to consider using the same drill bit size for each hole. Smooth out the rough edges of the drywall and fill with a rasp to make patching easier. I like to attach a hook in the center of the board for gripping while inserting screws (2) at each end. After removing the hook, insert the plug. Apply a layer of drywall mud in the crevice, wait for it to dry, then apply a second coat that tapers out a few inches. Once dried, lightly sand for a smooth finish, prime, and paint.
– no tape?
There is no need for tape if the plug is firmly attached to the 1x, which is securely connected to the adjacent drywall, as there is no movement. The 1x should be as wide as possible to fit the hole, and ensure your mud dries between layers to prevent shrinking, which could lead to cracking.
They create mesh kits specifically for this purpose
I prefer patching them as circles since the straight edges are less noticeable when mudding/taping. I would use 3/4” plywood for backing. Ideally, I would create a new circular patch that matches and use it for California patches.
After the mess they left, you’re probably better off doing it yourself next time! I can’t imagine what they charged you for that poor work.
The circular pieces are simple to work with – cut plywood strips to prevent any breakage, insert them into the holes, then screw on both sides, attach the scrap sheet rock circles, mud and tape, and you’re done.
Or 1x4s…
Look up drywall patching on Google
Grab a bucket of mud and try the 1x method. The cutouts are already the right size!
The complaints about stapling every 16” etc are silly. It’s a requirement for older homes.
Just go ahead and grab a circle cutter to whip up a batch of fresh California patches. It’ll be a breeze since they’re all the same size. No need to bother with backer boards or cutting tape and all that hassle. California patches work amazingly well and get the job done quickly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQINSGd8LD4
Gives flawless advice
Seems like they really care about their home. Stop advising people to take shortcuts, it always ends up looking bad.
Is in agreement. Forget about California patches. It’s super easy to do a 1×4.
Maybe you just need a bit more practice, I’ve done plenty of them and they turn out great!
I am confident that I don’t need any practice doing those tasks. Make sure to do it correctly and seamlessly, don’t just slap on a quick fix.
Yeah, I thought California patches would do the trick. I just wasn’t sure if I should keep those circles they cut out.
California fixes ((:
Use 1×4 and repurpose the removed circles.
Hire a skilled drywall finisher. I could explain how to repair it, but it might not turn out well since it’s not easily teachable.
Save the cutouts. Apply 1 layer behind. Begin with 90-minute setting compound to fill the gaps. Smooth out rough areas before applying tape for the second layer using all-purpose compound. Sand, then add a third layer with all-purpose compound if necessary.
You have options with this. If there are multiple patches to be made, consider creating several California patches and using a jig for cutting. It does result in more dust and cutting, though. Using the plugs is also a good option.
When taping the circular joint, do you just tape straight across?
Christopher Watford, that might be a little challenging. You can create a square or hexagon design, depending on the hole’s width and use the tape accordingly.
Christopher Watford, you should tape it as if it were a square, keeping it simple.
That’s correct.
You don’t need to make the hole bigger. Just use the rounds you have. Cut 2” wide straps out of 1/4 inch plywood, making them about 4” wider than the hole. Plywood is a better choice because it’s less likely to split when you screw it in place. Slide the straps into the hole – one at the top and one at the bottom – and secure them with screws. Use screws that are just long enough to go through the drywall and into the plywood to avoid damaging any wires or plumbing. Once the straps are in place, screw the round piece you saved onto the strap. Then tape and mud the area like you would for a butt joint. Remember to feather the joints out at least 12” to 24” to blend the patch with the wall and make it look smooth. You could also do a California patch, but that would mean buying a new sheet of drywall. Why not just use what you already have?
Gave a great tip about plywood. I’ve had 1x split before.
Is happy to share the information. Thank you!
Use either 1 California patch or make your own
California patch made simple
I wouldn’t hire that electrician again. There shouldn’t have been any holes in the drywall to connect to that outlet. Maybe he didn’t know how to use a fish tape!
Place a 12-inch 1×3 board behind the drywall, and utilize the circular drywall pieces for a successful and easy solution.
How would you go about taping it?
Recommends using approximately 6-inch pieces, placing three or four across. Here’s another tip: begin by starting two drywall screws into the drywall, then hold onto the 1×2 or 1×3 with one hand while screwing the screws in. They shouldn’t penetrate through the drywall paper.
If you’re doing the patching yourself, place a piece of wood and secure it with screws. Then reinsert the hole back into the cavity and screw it to that. Tape and spackle afterwards.
Get some 2” x 1” boards and cut just slightly larger than the width of the holes. Secure the board to the Sheetrock using Sheetrock screws to catch the board. You can screw through the intact drywall to get a screw to hold the board across any gap, providing a spot to screw the small cutout to.
I’m sorry to hear they messed up your home. Fish tapes are basically 1/2” flat and 1/16” thick, with a maximum hole size of 3 sides of a 1” square to pull up to 2 wires. Sounds like someone needs more practice 😂.
Here in Canada since 1993, we cut the GWB to leave a flap and a 45-degree closure. Durabond 20 is applied to the three edges, then it’s pushed back into the wall to be flush. The plugs stay within the wall, leaving only 3 score marks on the GWB surface. Every hole is sealed and ready for sanding before we’re done. It just seems like a case of pure laziness. Apologies once again. Now you’re left dealing with 3/8” ply backer strips, screws, filler, dust, wet taping the seams, feathering out, priming, and painting if you can match the roller nap.
Opt for the 1 by
If you happen to have those cutouts already, go ahead and make use of them. Simply place some small wood pieces behind the holes. Secure the wood onto the wall with screws, then attach the cutout onto the wood. After that, apply tape and mud as needed.
Grab half a sheet of drywall and cut out some square holes. Take those leftover pieces with a bit of paper still intact and make patches that extend an inch beyond. These are what we like to call California patches, haha.
Cut a 1x board that is at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the hole. Place a temporary screw in the center of the 1x board. Insert it in the hole with 1 inch on each side, then use the temporary screw to pull the 1x board forward while applying pressure on the wood and sheetrock. Secure with drywall screws on the top and bottom. Remove the temporary screw and attach the circular patch. Finish by using paper tape and joint compound. Sand and prime the area. Best of luck!
¾” plywood is considered the most optimal choice
Trim excess paper all around, place a round backing piece, apply mud on the paper section, let it dry, then add 2 layers of mud for a smooth finish
Has anyone tried the technique of filling the gap with great stuff instead of using tape? Sounds strange but it could work well in this scenario since the joint shouldn’t move at all.
https://youtu.be/LLiKD1XTLc8?si=ZpGGgGCStNqlWERg
I will take a look at it
They created the opening large enough for 1x usage. Simply utilize the cutouts. Tidy up the edges with a utility knife, fill with hot mud, apply tape (I prefer fiba fuse), add 2-3 layers, smooth it out, and paint
Can you gather up all the pieces he cut out and see if any can be reused?
Just add some wood and repurpose them.
There isn’t much insulation in that area.
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It’s much simpler to just insert a piece of one by four in there, all you need is one piece across