What is the best way to insulate metal studs in a room with intense sun exposure in North Florida to prevent heat transfer and improve comfort?
Asked by Fernando Marín 
1 month ago
Last Updated: November 8, 2024
Hey, have you thought about how to properly insulate those metal studs in the room that gets a ton of sun during the day? They’re really good at transferring heat, which is probably why the room is so uncomfortable in the summer. I was thinking of using spray foam and adding some thermal break tape on the studs before putting up drywall. Do you think that’s a good plan for making sure the room stays more comfortable? Just wondering, since we’re in north Florida and the heat can be pretty brutal.
Honestly, the insulation work here is pretty bad. It’s definitely not done correctly. It’s actually the studs that are responsible for heat transfer, not the insulation.
Here, yep. With my 6 months of construction experience, I couldn’t help but hear Joe Pesci in my head saying: ‘what the heck is this?’
That sounds like a job for a homeowner for sure. You have to be really careful with the insulation, cutting it to the right size and placing it properly in the wall. No stuffing it in there haphazardly. And don’t forget to add a tight vapor barrier and secure it with tuck tape. I’m guessing it’s 2X4 construction, so your R value options will be limited. Spray insulation would be ideal, but it’s pricey and finding a contractor for a small job can be tough. I wouldn’t recommend using one of those two-part kits you can buy commercially – they have a bad reputation for not expanding enough, falling apart, and just not working well.
Hey David! Your insulation batts should have two flaps on each side. They need to be stapled to the studs for a tight installation. Since you have metal studs, I would recommend taping each flap to the stud.
I would definitely think about using closed cell foam insulation; if you’re worried about the metal studs transferring heat, you might opt for rigid foam board, followed by drywall maybe? However, you may need to acquire extenders for the receptacle boxes.
What do you think is behind the wall?
A.j., there are problems with the exterior wall – OSB board and stucco. The other wall on the left in the pic has concrete block and a radiant barrier.
Oh no, steel and wood don’t mix well. I prefer steel for concrete/CBS structures, not wood shells.
Do you know if this was ever inspected? Because I would bet money that it won’t pass.
A.j., I’m not entirely sure, but St. Johns County in Florida is known for being pretty strict with their inspections. It used to be apartments before being converted into condos.
I have observed interior rooms that were insulated for sound, and I can’t help but think if the same principle could be applied in this scenario.
The base and top plates were 2×6 while the studs were 2×4. They were spaced closer together – 12″oc – but they were staggered to the inside and outside of the wall frame (1 next to the outside edge of the 2×6, the following one next to the inside of the 2×6, then back to the outside, back to the inside). Then, when insulation was inserted, it had the increased R-value of the 2×6 wall, and the soundproofing functioned on the premise that none of the studs inside the wall made contact with both wall surfaces – they only made contact with the one wall surface linked to the edge of the top and bottom plate they were affixed to, so the vibration did not travel through the wall structure effectively.
I wonder if the same principle applies to temperature…
I don’t think I’ve ever seen aluminum studs used on an exterior wall before. Do you know if that’s even permitted by the building code? Usually, aluminum studs are only seen on interior walls that aren’t crucial for support.
I remember visiting Maui and seeing a house being built with treated lumber. It’s important to remember that just because something is successful in one place, doesn’t mean it’s the right choice for your own neighborhood.
According to , metal studs are permitted by the building code.
Are metal studs commonly used in exterior walls of homes? Is it up to code in your location?
You know, I’m not sure how common it is but I do know that my friend’s house is a single-story generic house that was ordered from a builder, and all of its walls, interior and exterior, are made of metal studs.
This is really intriguing, I’ve never come across this before.
‘s house was surprisingly inexpensive. It had aluminum siding and some of the interior walls were made of metal sheeting. I’ve never seen anything like it. It seems like maybe they were trying to create a really affordable home back in the 60s because it has a very basic, open floor plan.
I’ve never come across metal studs in an exterior wall of a house before. I would suggest adding a thermal break or simply replacing them with wood.
Install a second row of studs halfway between the existing ones, shifted forward by 3 inches, and insulate between the two rows.
I’d swap out the existing insulation for mineral wool, add a layer of rigid foam insulation to create a solid wall appearance, and then put up drywall.
In Florida, the best way to insulate metal stud walls is by using foam board on the interior. Steel studs are highly conductive, so without that thermal break, they can transfer so much energy that it cancels out any insulation in the wall cavity, including closed cell foam.
I don’t think you should use foam board on both sides of the wall because moisture won’t be able to escape. This can lead to moldy insulation.
I actually meant thermal break tape. Unfortunately, due to HOA restrictions, there’s not much that can be done outside.
Spray foam insulation that is closed cell
Re-insulate the wall properly with R-15. The current insulation is not effective. You can even add a thermal break tape on the studs to reduce heat transfer.
2lb. Closed cell foam all the way
Fiberglass is not the best choice! Have you ever wondered what happens to 6 mil plastic when you cut it to fit around switch boxes and outlets? And what about when you hang drywall and drive screws through it? There’s no real vapor barrier there. Fiberglass is only tested and rated in a completely sealed 6-sided box. The actual insulation value a homeowner gets is usually only half of what the batt bag claims. Instead, consider spraying 2lb. Closed cell foam on that wall the right way. It’s R21.3, but now it also acts as an automatic vapor barrier, a barrier against wind and rodents, and a great sound insulator. Your wall will be 40% stronger than before. This is what we specialize in every weekday.
What exactly is aluminum foil padding used for? Should it be used? And how does it work? Consider planting trees or shrubs on the west side to provide shade for the western wall.
Using mirror glass might be an issue with the HOA, but there are still options to get a window with low SHC. Since the wall is already torn apart, it might be a good time to work on replacing the window. It looks quite old (is it single pane?) and the late afternoon sun shouldn’t be too harsh due to shade from neighboring houses and trees.
Okay, after taking another look, it seems like the window is your main issue. It’s a pretty large window in a small room, and facing west just makes it worse. Your foam insulation is okay, but replacing the window with one that has low U-value and very low solar gain factor (SHC) around 0.10 would be a good idea. A window with mirror and insulated low-e glass would help block out the solar heat.
The window is a couple of years old, double pane with argon gas. It’s a good quality window, not the cheapest one. The wall feels warm in summer, indicating an insulation issue. The drywall should feel room temperature, not warm.