What are the best solutions for eliminating or reducing the 3.5 feet of underground water against my house causing leaks in my basement after heavy rain and snow melt?
2 weeks ago
Last Updated: October 1, 2024
I think there might be a big repair needed, but I wanted to check here first. With all the rain and snow melting lately, I found some leaks in my basement where water was seeping in through the walls. I dug around the house and saw that there’s about 3 and a half feet of water underground against the house. Do you have any ideas on how to get rid of or reduce this water?
Oh, how exciting to see
Install perimeter drains around your foundation and connect them to a sump pump. Use the pump to redirect water to a storm sewer or appropriate easement.
Nailed it!
‘s issue is that he lives in the country where there are no nearby drainage options, not even a ditch.
Do you have a septic tank or are you connected to a public sewer?
Also raises the soil near the wall to divert water away from the house. You can dig a hole next to the hose and install a sump pump with a large plastic pipe or even a bucket with holes. Some people dig down and seal the walls with tar or other waterproofing materials, and use a weeping tile (a pipe with holes) around the foundation leading to a sump pump.
We recently replaced the septic tank and leach field in April, and we also rely on well water.
Everything you mentioned is already taken care of in the basement. The pipes are constantly flowing with water and the pump kicks in every 10 to 15 minutes.
Make sure your perimeter drain is piped to the sump, consider pumping out to the septic tank or tying it into your house sewer line. ‘t forget to install a backwater valve! It can get pricey to have a truck pump out your ground water. Have you thought about daylighting a discharge pipe near your leach field? Just make sure it doesn’t back grade the line. If the discharge line is above grade, consider letting the sumppump discharge into the ground away from the house if you have the space. Assuming your gutters are clear and drain above ground near the house. If they drain underground, connect your sump pump to that line.
The leach field is about 25 feet away from where I’m planning to dig. It’s possible that I could connect to the leach field.
Have you considered a sump pump, perhaps?
I was thinking, maybe have three foundation companies take a look in addition to a sump pump.
What about a French drain?
Would you consider digging a French drain? It seems like a lot of work.
Hey , I actually dug a trench that was 16″ wide x 16″ deep x about 40′ long. It was a lot of hard work, but totally worth it. Ever since then, my cellar has stayed completely dry. No more rushing to move things off the floor when it rains. Alternatively, some places rent out machines for trench digging, which is easier than using a pick and spade.
Oh yeah, a French or curtain drain can definitely help with managing water flow and keeping it away from the foundation. Not sure if you could use something like a ditch witch for that … you go down, lay the drain tile, add coarse gravel backfill, put a ‘cover’ or membrane, and then backfill. You could create a U shape around the house leading to low spots and you’re good to go …
I’m planning to install a French drain because I have pooling water against the wall and need to lower the water level.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I also put some gravel at the bottom of the ditch, added the drainage pipe, then covered it with more gravel and a membrane before backfilling. Some people have different opinions on using the membrane, but I chose to include it. And don’t forget, the pipe needs to be pitched at least 1/4″ per foot with a screen on the end to keep critters out.
Made some great points!
Consider installing a curtain drain.
The weeping tile system needs to be obstructed. Set up a temporary sump pump system while waiting to repair the weeping tile system and adjust the landscaping to redirect surface water from the foundation. Ensure the downspouts drain far away from the foundation.
Take a closer look at hydroblox.
The effectiveness of drainage solutions greatly depends on the topography and soil conditions of your site.
First, make sure to check the gutters for any blockages. Then, take a look at the downspouts and see if they need any adjustments or extensions to divert water away from the house. Once the roof water is flowing properly, consider some landscape construction. For areas with pooling, consider installing a dry well at least 10 feet away from the house, following local codes. If there are multiple areas with pooling, a french drain might be the best solution. Contact a landscape construction company or drain installation company to inquire about exterior french drains. This way, you won’t have to dig a drain around the entire perimeter of your house, and you’ll need materials like crushed stone, corrugated tubing, and landscape fabric to keep everything in place. And don’t forget, the separation of the stone from the soil is a critical aspect that should not be overlooked.
We’re focusing on that one spot for now where the pooling is happening. We’re currently digging around the side of the house to pinpoint the exact location of the pool.
If possible, consider using a dry well for drainage. Remember to call 811 to mark utilities on your property for safety. It’s a free service and required by law to avoid any digging mishaps.
I’d try removing the water and inspect the gutters and downspouts. You didn’t mention the amount of leakage, but with that much water outside the wall, I’d be concerned. You can find submersible pumps for under $20 on Amazon.
Not sure about the exact amount, but it’s sufficient to fill up the whole space in under an hour.
Putting in a drainage system outside at the base of the footing is necessary
‘s method works when the drainage pipes connect to a system that effectively controls water flow away from the house. Otherwise, water may collect and cause issues.
True. It’s best if the drainage pipes lead to daylight far from the house or connect to a storm drain or sanitary sewer. Sometimes, you may need a sump pump and catch basin for proper drainage.
Is correct. It’s known as a curtain drain and should have already been in place.
The FIRST step is to make sure your gutters are clear and direct water far away from the house. It’s relatively inexpensive to add a pipe that leads away from the house if you have the space and slope for it. You can even rent equipment for digging a trench for a reasonable price.
Next, check that the site is properly sloped away from the building. In problem areas, you can use culvert pipes and gravel, which is a bit pricier but still budget-friendly.
Finally, excavate around the foundation to install a drainage pipe that leads away from the house. Fill the trench with plenty of gravel. While you’re excavating, apply a waterproof membrane to the foundation. This part can be costly but is crucial to do correctly.
Drainage should always be included, but sometimes builders skip this step to save money or out of lack of knowledge. This has been a problem in my own home, where there is a seven-foot deep basement with inadequate drainage, causing flooding and foundation issues on clay soil.
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Make sure to check the gutter, downspouts, and slope around the foundation. Also, ensure that the downspouts discharge a good distance from the house. If that doesn’t solve the issue, consider looking into French drains. I had a foundation company give me a quote for drain tiles and a sump pump, but it wouldn’t have effectively addressed the water on the foundation walls. They wanted 12k for just 2 basement walls. Instead, I went outside during a heavy rain to track where the water was coming from. I discovered that the slope around my foundation was the problem. I got some dirt from a compost company and haven’t had any issues since. We also connected all the downspouts together.
You’ll probably receive various responses, but here are two suggestions: ensure your gutters are functioning properly and check if the water is draining away from your home (consider the ground slope). If you can’t address these issues, consider hiring a professional for an assessment. Installing a French drain around the house (which can be costly) might solve the problem, but there could be a more effective solution.
Mentions that downspouts are approximately 10 feet away from the house. The ground has a slight slope towards the farmer’s field and is made up of black dirt, followed by yellowish dirt and wet clay underneath.
I’m wondering if the issue might be related to the groundwater level. To find out, try digging a hole downhill or at the same level. I once had a basement project and discovered that the groundwater was only 2-3 feet below the concrete in April/May.
That’s the location where the ground is at.
Ensure the proper grading and then consider a French drain system