Struggling to remove old paint from wood, any tips for achieving an even stain on a stubborn spot in the back corner?
Asked by Gorete Teixeira 
11 months ago
Last Updated: January 27, 2024
Hey, just wanted to give a quick update to those who saw my previous post. I tried using citristrip and did a ton of scraping, but I ran into some strange white gunk that the citristrip didn’t touch. I’ve since switched to a hand sander with 60 grit paper and have put a lot of effort into getting it to where it is now. Still needs more sanding, but I’m aiming to eventually stain and seal it. Do you think the stain would help even out the lighter section of the wood in the back corner?
A random orbit sander would save you a ton of time. Dewalt offers a good, affordable option. If you do it frequently, Festool has a sander that would cut the time in half again. It’s pricey, though.
I have 6 random orbit sanders. If I could only pick one sander it would definitely be the Bosch GET 75. It’s top-notch with dual mode and is half the price of the Festool RO 150 dual mode. If you’re not in need of something aggressive, the SurfPrep/Ekasand/AirVantage (all the same) have low vibration and can sand all day. Another great general-purpose sander would be the Festool ETS EC 150/5.
That’s quite a collection! LOL. The struggle of choosing just one, right? If you had to choose only one, which one would you go for? The sad part is I really enjoy finish work. My table saw remains as polished as a mirror for no reason other than finding the process soothing. Unfortunately, my meds are clearly not effective anymore, so no sanding for now…
I have an old Craftsman Jointer sitting on my workbench. It may be ordinary, but it was a steal for $50. I have another identical one that I actually use, so I know what needs improvement. I was hoping to address some of those issues with the spare one. Even more importantly, I always like to make my tools aesthetically pleasing. The old 113 model has a nostalgic art deco look to it. I disassembled it and decided to enhance its design. After weeks of work with bondo and a die grinder, adding more design elements gradually and sanding it down smoothly, I’ve completed about a third of it. Now it sits there sadly, waiting to be finished. I have aqua paint, silver leaf, and shiny new switches and LEDs to make it stand out. It’s meant to be an over-the-top masterpiece of tool art, but I haven’t touched it since mid-November, around the time my meds stopped working. I’ll keep trying different medications until I find one that works, and hopefully, I’ll be back to my usual self. This relapse was a wake-up call for me to invest in better tools. The sanders are on top of the list, followed closely by rotary tools and grinders. Those are my weaknesses – I can’t resist them despite the lack of reciprocation. I really need to start upgrading my tools. I have an old drill press that’s eager to transform into a velociraptor.
Hey , thanks a lot for sharing your experience with sanders! It’s really helpful to hear your perspective.
I know exactly what you mean about vibrations being a challenge, especially with a joint disease. It’s important to find tools that work well for you.
Wow, that sounds like a really tough experience with the Dewalt sander. It’s smart of you to think about ways to reduce vibration through modifications.
Is the Festool actually significantly better than the Dewalt? I own the Dewalt and think it’s fantastic, so if Festool is twice as good, that’s definitely worth looking into
I don’t have any advice, but these stairs look exactly like ours. I’m wondering if you guys almost slipped and fell on them too? Haha
I also thought about that. I own two cats. Those stairs with cats around? I’d be done for.
Oh my goodness, yes, I’ve come close to death at least 5 times in the past year. That’s why I decided to install traction tape. The treads are usually only 8 inches deep so your foot barely stays on haha
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Be cautious when using powerful Random Orbital Sanders because they may not reach all areas. If you remove a lot in the middle, you might struggle to level the rest using a detail sander and a scraper. It could be quite challenging. I’m not saying you shouldn’t use one. I have the Dewalt sander that someone else recommended. It’s really great and affordable. I recommend using it. Just be mindful not to overdo it. The Dewalt sander can remove a lot of wood quickly!
Consider using a scraper as a tool. I don’t mean a putty knife. Check out Cabinet scrapers on Amazon. There are various styles available. While I haven’t tried the more unique, curved types, I have used a 1-inch and a 2-inch scraper with carbide bits. It took some time to get used to them, but once I did, I found them to be very effective for paint removal. Cabinet makers and fine woodworkers use them instead of sanding for a smooth finish, but I personally haven’t done that. I stick to using them for paint stripping, sometimes alongside a heat gun.
I responded first and then found a link for more information. Unfortunately, this group doesn’t allow links, so my comment got put on hold. I apologize to anyone affected. It slipped my mind about the rule in this group. My mistake. Remove the paint from all the steps using the easiest method you find: Paint Stripper, Cabinet Scraper, Heat Gun, Sander, etc. If there are still stains, use steel wool and mineral spirits to clean them. The white residue is likely a form of residue that can be removed with mineral spirits. You can also attempt denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner, but I believe using a sharp scraper, steel wool, and mineral spirits will yield better results. Once done, scrub the steps thoroughly with TSP or a TSP substitute to eliminate any remaining residue. This is crucial to ensure no interference with staining or bleaching. If stains persist, particularly black spots or rust stains, utilize wood bleach. Some opt for standard household bleach, but I don’t recommend it as it can alter the wood’s natural color. Invest in wood bleach from industrial supply companies on Amazon; it’s essentially oxalic acid. Oxalic acid effectively removes stains without affecting the wood’s natural color, especially black stains and rust stains. It may not be as effective on white stains. If white stains persist after bleaching and aren’t glue or paint residue, seek further advice.
Tried using adhesive remover which helped a bit, but not a whole lot. Ended up using a razor and a small wire brush to clean up the edges and I’m happy with how it looks so far.
The white substance seems more like adhesive than paint. The best approach would be to grab a piece of the same type of wood and conduct a test to see the results. However, using a stain should be able to cover it up.
You should be able to achieve a pretty even finish. I recommend sanding out the scratches left by the 60 grit sandpaper with 80 or 100 grit, then stopping at 150 grit before applying the stain. I don’t push sandpaper to its limit. Spend about 10-15 minutes on it and then switch to a new sheet.
Could the color appear improved if you moisten the entire stair a little?
That seems promising.
I believe so, !