Should I use a wrench to forcefully turn the shut off knob that is currently stuck?
Asked by Valtteri Heikkinen 
3 months ago
Last Updated: June 9, 2024
Hey there! I’m having some trouble with this shut off knob. Should I use a wrench to force it to move, even though it might end up breaking?
Hey there! I’m not a plumber, but I’m working on it. It seems to be a compression fitting. Make sure to turn off your water and swap out the angle stop.
It seems to me like the stop is actually soldered on. I might be mistaken.
It’s not an angled stop, it’s a straight stop. The distinction is pretty obvious.
I agree with you – that definitely doesn’t look like a compression fitting.
Hey Gary, are you certain about that?
Appreciate your input, .
Hey , are you referring to a sweated fitting with a nut? Or something else?
Make sure not to solder it, use a compression fitting instead when replacing the valve as suggested by others.
There’s no nut. Clearly it’s sweated. Take a closer look – no nut in sight.
Totally. No nut at all
Seems a bit crazy to me.
Hey there, it’s not the valve body, it’s the supply line. You’re focusing on the wrong section of the valve. The part you need to look at is underneath, where the copper enters the valve body. That’s where it separates, not at the top. A typical compression fitting would have a nut where there isn’t one; it’s actually soldered. So, what you’re dealing with here is a soldered fitting, not a compression fitting.
Just because there is a compression connection at the top doesn’t automatically make it a compression fitting. The type of valve is actually determined by the inlet side. If there’s no nut on the inlet side, then it’s a soldered fitting. Your picture is essentially showing the wrong part of the valve.
A compression fitting doesn’t necessarily have to look like a compression fitting. I don’t quite follow your reasoning. However, you are correct about the process of replacing the valve requiring heat or cutting.
The valve is labeled as the INLET side. ALL supply stops have Compression on the outlet… This particular one is a 1/2×3/8 SWEAT STRAIGHT STOP.
Absolutely right, !
Hey , according to your reasoning, there wouldn’t be such a thing as a sweat stop… But that can’t be right, how would we know what to order at the supply house then? What name would we give it?? Since every stop has a compression OUTLET, they would all have to be called compression… This just doesn’t make sense.
Hey there, take another look at it. The sweat fitting is clearly visible on the underside. There is no nut for the compression fitting.
It’s soldered at the bottom. The top part is compressed.
Hey Gary, you’re being a bit rough there. I believe he was just checking out the top. I’m not a plumber either, but it’s obvious that the valve is soldered on.
It seems like everyone is focusing on the top nut. But actually, that nut doesn’t determine the style of fitting. The fitting is actually determined by the inlet side, which is sweated.
I noticed the supply line to the toilet, and yup, it seems like the stop is soldered. To make things easier, just turn off the water and unsweat.
Hey, if I had to order the valve, I’d make sure to ask for a 1/2″ sweated to 1/2″ compression straight valve (if I’m looking at the sizes and types correctly in the photo). Just mentioning the inlet side isn’t enough to fully describe the valve.
Is always ordered this way because the outlet side always has a compression fitting. It wouldn’t make sense to describe them differently.
It takes a good man to own up to his mistakes.
I have some valves in my basement that are sweated on both sides, including 3/8″ compression and 1/4″ compression for the refrigerator water. I also have right angle valves, gate valves, and ball valves. I’ll keep it detailed.
Compression fitting on top soldered on the bottom.
Start by turning off the main water line. Give it a good spray with some penetrating oil. Remember to place a thick rag underneath to catch the oil and overspray, then wait 15-20 minutes before attempting to turn it. Be prepared for water in the line in case it breaks. Clockwise tightens and counterclockwise loosens. Also, have a plan in place for what to do next if it does break.
If the valve breaks, there are nuts on top and bottom that can be loosened to slide down the line and replace it with a new valve. It might be a good idea to have a spare valve on hand so you’re not left without water.
Upon closer inspection, it appears that the bottom of the valve is soldered on rather than a nut, make sure to verify that first.
I believe it’s soldered.
Who would think to put carpet in a bathroom?
: It’s a common practice at big developments to cut costs by delaying flooring projects until new owners move in. Things can get a bit messy if male residents don’t aim properly.
William mentions that a toilet overflowing is also not ideal.
Yeah, I hear you. The contractor did the same thing to every house in this area. It’s been quite entertaining lol!
William explains that’s the reason I’m repairing it, because I can’t find a replacement for it here! 🤣
Definitely get one – every home should have a handyman around, they can fix things like stuck water valves.
Why the attitude? She’s just curious about the carpet.
Oh, I totally agree! We’re on the hunt for a new place, and we found one with all new carpeting, in the bathrooms, even the sliding glass door. It’s like a blast from the past to see that trend come back.
I’d consider combining the suggestions with some knowledge. Make sure the water is off and have plenty of rags ready to soak up any spills. Open up a faucet, preferably the lowest one, to release any remaining pressure. After shutting off the faucet, look for the nut behind the handle. Use a wrench to unscrew it. The body of the stem is made of plastic, while the washer at the end is rubber. Over time, the rubber can become stuck. Unscrewing the nut will release the tension on the stem, making it easier to remove. If the stem is too damaged, you’re not out of luck. Keep some valve seats on hand to replace worn ones; they’re available at most hardware stores in the plumbing repair section. Often, it’s a very inexpensive fix. You can store a spare valve in a toolbox for emergencies.
I think I’ll give this a shot.
You know, you might want to consider leaving the faucet open, but definitely make sure to flush the system afterwards. It’s important to carefully open each faucet to release any trapped air. Sometimes dealing with the valve can stir up sediment in the pipes, but that’s just how it goes. And don’t forget to clean the screens when needed. Oh, and I’m curious, what makes you decide to close that specific valve? It seems to be connected to a toilet tap.
I had trouble turning some by hand, and they ended up breaking when I tried using a wrench.
That’s my prediction for what will occur in this situation.
It seems like a pain to deal with because it appears to be soldered on and has a metal tube supply line.
It seems like this is accurate.
Replacing it requires the same amount of work as attempting to free it. You won’t need a torch for removal or replacement; after cutting with a hacksaw, clean the pipe from solder and corrosion using sandpaper. Install a new stop with a compression fitting on the cleaned pipe stub. Also, replace the tank supply line. Personally, I prefer a 1/4 turn ball valve – especially behind the toilet.
I appreciate your suggestion of replacing the supply line. Adding that to my to-do list now.
In addition to new gaskets, recommends using a new flexible pipe as it is much easier to work with compared to a solid one. Matching threads at both ends can be tricky with the current pipe.
If you try to move that carpeted bathroom, you’re definitely going to have a leak. Just shut off the main and let the remaining water run out from a sink or the tub spout before proceeding. The water should be minimal after disconnecting the supply line.
Hey , yeah I agree the carpet is strange. The house must have been built that way. Ugh, I really need to tear it out.
Try spraying some WD40 on it and let it sit for a few hours. It might come loose.
I attempted that a couple of times. Not successful yet.
WD 40 doesn’t work on a soldered joint. It’s a compression fitting, it’s soldered
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Dennis Snowdy is that thing even supposed to do that?
It’s designed for the oval handle shut-off valves…..works effectively when they become slightly difficult to turn
I can’t imagine how you could even squeeze that into the area behind the majority of toilets or beneath a sink.
I own one and have tried it out….it might not be suitable for very cramped spaces or if the valve is at an awkward angle…..it’s just a handy tool that is cost-effective to have on hand
Turn off the water main and grab the largest pair of channel locks you can find for some extra oomph, haha. Assuming it’s currently open, remember to turn it clockwise to loosen it.
Is there carpeting in the bathroom?
Not meaning to offend the original poster, but 🤮
Exactly! I purchased a house in this manner. I know, right?
Turn off the main water supply to the house. Release pressure and drain somewhere, like the vanity sink. Keep plenty of rags nearby. Loosen the packing nut and take out the valve assembly. Swap it out with a new one (found at a local wholesaler or Home Depot). Turn the main water back on and inspect for any leaks. Everything should be good to go. I’ve done this multiple times.
How about just replacing the shut off valve for a lot less money? It’s only $4…
You should leave it as is because it’s soldered on. Otherwise, you might end up loosening or breaking the rusty pipe down in the floor.
Where can find a $4 tool? Even the low-quality plastic ones are selling for $6.50. A high-quality 1/4 turn tool costs $10.
We pay $4 for items from the supply house.
Start by loosening the packing nut beneath the handle. Apply some penetrating oil to help with that before using a wrench. Once the packing nut is loosened, add more penetrating oil and attempt to turn the handle again. If it’s still stuck, remove the screw and use a handle puller if necessary to take off the handle. Reinsert the screw into the stem with lubrication and securely attach a sturdy pair of Visegrips to the stem to turn it. Avoid using channel locks on the handle to prevent breakage. Remember to reinsert the screw to avoid damaging the stem with the Visegrips. After disassembling it, replace the washer and grease all threads and the valve stem with plumber’s grease before reassembling everything.
Try turning it using channel locks. It should hold up fine. The handle might get damaged, but it’s made of metal so it won’t break off.
Turn off the main water supply. Grab a wrench and disassemble the shut off valve to replace the seals. Reassemble it and switch the water back on.
Apply some liquid wrench to the area you want to loosen up. Turn off the main water supply. Use a wrench or channel locks to loosen the large nut, remove it, and so on.
Hey , it looks like it’s soldered on.
Hey , it’s weird that they soldered the nut onto the shut off valve. Makes it impossible to replace the washer on the stem without removing it. The nut is what keeps the stem in place. I’ve never come across one that was soldered in place.
The nut is not soldered at the stem. The valve is soldered to the supply pipe. A new valve costs about 14$. Trying to remove it and risking breaking the stem, nut, or gate doesn’t seem worth it.
Where exactly are you seeing a nut? The pipe seems to be soldered directly to the valve body.
Was a bit confused, but I didn’t think it was too hard. Just apply some heat to the connection, pop the old valve off, clean it up with fine sandpaper, and solder the new one on. Do you know how to do that?
It’s best to just leave it be and turn off the main water supply.
Avoid applying too much pressure. It might lead to a leak. Probably blocked by corrosion.
Take out the screw in the middle of the handle.
Hold the stem with pliers and twist….
For a quick solution.
Replacing the valve is necessary for a permanent fix
You have the option to replace it. It’s best not to try to force it without turning off the main. Cut the pipe as close to the shutoff as you can (with the main off) and use sandpaper to clean it to a shiny finish. Grab a 1/4 turn compression shutoff valve and use 2 wrenches to tighten it. Swap the solid pipe to the bowl with a braided type. Slowly open the main once everything is done. Best of luck!
You can swap it out with a $10 valve stem repair kit from Home Depot. It’s really simple. Even if you manage to turn it, there’s a high chance it still won’t function properly.
First off, make sure the water is turned off and grab a replacement part before getting started
Or you could at least wait to do it on a morning when the hardware store is open.
Try using a heat gun to help loosen it up, along with some WD-40. It’s possible that it was sealed with Plumbers Putty.
Good luck trying to unsolder . Have fun with WD-40!
Please, can you get rid of that carpet?
Hey, let’s cut her some slack. It’s the valve that’s the issue, not the carpet. Being kind doesn’t cost a thing.
Okay. It’s a basic compression valve. Turn off the water, drain the lines, use pliers or a wrench to remove and replace it. Then get rid of that carpet 💁🏻♂️
The supply appears to be compression, but that valve might be soldered. It should be okay to use a wrench on it. You may need to tighten the packing nut afterward.
Upon closer inspection, I think you’re right. It seems to be soldered onto the pipe. No worries, soldering is not that difficult. Just be careful not to set the carpet on fire while soldering though 💁🏻♂️😆
Try using WD40.
The valve got stuck because it was fully open. You need to remember to turn it back a bit when adding water, or it will seize up. I learned this the hard way.
You can try applying force with pliers while holding the valve with another pair of pliers. It should break free without causing damage, but make sure to turn off the water supply to be safe. It’s a bit of a gamble.
Definitely avoid using pliers.
If you’ve used pliers on schedule 40 copper and damaged it, making it unusable, you wouldn’t advise it.
You’re in timeout just for bringing up the word ‘pliers.’
I didn’t suggest using pliers on copper pipe, just on the entire valve and handle. You’re overreacting.
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After examining the escutcheon plate, it seems like it has already taken a beating. 😅
Just swap it out, so you won’t have to stress about it.
Have you attempted turning it in the opposite direction? It’s a common question. Figured I’d ask first 😄😊🤭😂
Oh my god yes hahaha
Spritz it with some penetrating oil a few times, then let it sit for a day. After that, try turning it by hand with a glove on. You’re more likely to break the plastic handle before causing any real damage. If that does happen, be prepared to replace the valve. Oh, and by the way, what’s the deal with the carpet in your bathroom? 🤔
Maybe indoor/outdoor carpet would have been a better choice.. haha
Turn off the water, cut the copper line, and swap out the valve with a 1/4 turn replacement.
Hey, so first things first, let’s take out the toilet, remove the carpet, and replace it with a more suitable flooring because we all know that carpet in a bathroom is a big no-no.
Have you considered the option of moving into government housing?
Loosen the packing nut slightly before attempting to turn the valve.
Personally, I would recommend turning off the main and just replacing the entire thing. It’s not difficult, not costly, and will definitely save you a lot of trouble in the future.
Turn off the water, drain the system, remove the stem, disconnect the supply tube, remove the stop, take off the Escutcheon, clean the copper, install a new Escutcheon, put back the stop (using sweat or compression), and reconnect the supply tube. Everything will be brand new and look fantastic.
Just leave
Who on earth decides to put carpet in a bathroom
Be careful not to bump into the banjo on your way out
When you turn off the water, put a drop of 3in1 oil on the shaft, loosen the packing nut, then use slip joint pliers to try a little back torque on the handle before closing it (you might need to apply some force). If that doesn’t do the trick and you’re not comfortable with soldering, it’s best to call a plumber.
Use a torch on it. Haha
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Let me summarize the three recommended methods for this repair from the thread. There seems to be some confusion with the steps and terms. One option is to use brute force to free the stem from corrosion. You’ll need pliers at the handle, a pipe wrench at the valve body, and WD40 or 3 in 1 to soak into the stem. Many are worried about the stem breaking or causing a major water leak. The second method involves buying a Stem repair kit. You’ll need an adjustable wrench for the gland nut and a pipe wrench for the valve body. This kit replaces the stem washer and seat gasket. Apply oil to the nut, and use a green or gray scrub pad to clean off corrosion and water deposits from the seat and stem. The issue could be a potential water leak at the stem or seat, along with a damaged valve, disrupted tank supply line, and water supply stub. The third popular suggestion is to replace the valve and tank supply line. You’ll need a hack saw (or a torch if a plumber is handling it), an adjustable wrench, a green or red scrub pad, and possibly 200 sandpaper for the water supply stub. Removing the tank supply line might be tricky because the pipe may need to be bent, but a hack saw is available.
Before doing anything, be sure to turn off the Main or any valve before this one! Release pressure by flushing, then loosen the nut a little and try moving the hand valve. It looks like the packing might have caused the inside parts to seize up. That’s why you should never fully open it until it stops, and always turn it back just a bit! These valves are outdated! If you have the chance, consider replacing it!
By the way, I’m not a professional plumber! I’m just a regular homeowner who has some experience, having previously owned a beautiful house from the late 1800s! Pretty cool stuff, right? Good luck!
I’m curious why there are carpets in a bathroom. It seems like a quick fix that can be done in just 10 minutes!