Should I reuse the cement board and consider the existing holes when redesigning my stud layout for this project?
Asked by Lyna Fleury 
2 months ago
Last Updated: July 29, 2024
I’m gonna remove this to even out the studs in the background. What do you think about reusing the cement board? I’m gonna rearrange things a bit, but I’m wondering about all the holes I’ve already made. Thanks!
If you’re able to remove it without causing damage, you should be able to reuse and apply a membrane on top, like schluter paper or something similar.
Simply fill your screw holes with mud before waterproofing. It should work out fine.
Stick with what you’ve got and add more where needed using thinset.
The situation at the top is quite noticeable. Let me know your thoughts on how to address it.
I’m encountering the same issue on both sides. When I place my level flat on the bottom board and move it across the joint, the problem persists.
Are you referring to the top right corner? Try placing a 6ft level on it to check the alignment. You may need to adjust by removing the upper board or shaving the back of the board or stud. If it’s off by 1/4 to 3/8, you can compensate with thinset. The size and layout of the tiles are crucial considerations.
That’s actually not a bad idea, . Just fill as you go.
I’m planning on hiring . Do you think I should apply mortar on the cement board before adding the membrane? Or should I level it after adding the membrane while I’m tiling? Sorry, this is my first DIY tile job!
How about a 12×24 tile with a 30% offset?
Is on board. It’s actually pretty good. I would move forward. I typically opt for red guard for waterproofing after completing this stage.
Once you reach the membrane. If you go too high you won’t want to disrupt the membrane. Plan out your high points and label them so you can identify where a thinner layer of thinset is needed. It all makes sense. Also, make sure to use leveling clips.
Membrane initially
You could try placing a thin board at the corner from top to bottom, just filling the gap and securing it with screws. Then, add some thinset and smooth it out. Use a straightedge to ensure it’s flat. ‘t stress too much about making it perfect, just aim for reasonably flat. Let the thinset set a bit, then remove the board. Once it’s almost fully set, check for level and squareness, and sand down any high points if needed. After it’s completely dry, add another layer of thinset to fill in the gaps and voids. Finish by taping and sealing as recommended.
What size are the tiles? The smaller the tile, the more important this will be.
Sure thing! 12 x 24 –> , 12 feet by 24 feet.
Oh, you’re all set! A large format tile such as that can cover a wide area, and you can align it using mortar/thinset. Just utilize your level and some type of tile leveling system to keep it straight.
You might think it’s a smart move to recycle the cement board, but it’s actually not. The final result won’t look polished if the joints weren’t properly sealed.
I’m not a big fan of cement board, to be honest. There are so many better products available that are also easier to handle.
Make sure to add more screws and follow the instructions closely. The specification calls for an 8” screw pattern, not what is currently in place.
In a slightly older photo. No need to worry, they’re still there.
Let’s go with just the red gard and get it done!
Make sure to fill in the holes with thinset and then apply a few coats of liquid waterproofing.
It’s important to waterproof, but you can certainly make do with what you have in this situation.
I wouldn’t take it out. I’d tape drywall shims to serve as a guide for screeding where thinset is needed to ensure the wall is plumb. Utilize Speedset thinset.
If you’re cautious when removing the cement board, you can definitely recycle it. When tiling, just fill any of the original unused holes with a bit of thinset and you’ll be good to go.
You might as well throw some new ones. It’ll save you money in the long term, especially if you’re not into mudding!