Should I continue with my original plan of using tile adhesive primer and tile adhesive, or should I consider alternative options like wonder board or replacing the drywall entirely in order to fix the issues with my kitchen wall project?
Asked by Supriya Thampy 
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 22, 2024
Hey there! So, I had this grand plan to use a special primer for tiling this wall, but it turns out the current primer isn’t doing the trick. The mud might not have dried properly. Now I’m kind of at a crossroads. Should I keep scraping away at this primer, stick to the original plan with the tile adhesive primer and adhesive, put up 1/4 wonder board, or go all out and take down the drywall for 1/2 wonder board? It’s for my kitchen, and I want to tile all the way up to the ceiling with some shelves in between. Looking back, I probably should have gone with the wonder board before putting up the cabinets. Any advice on how to fix this mess?
What type of primer are you using?
Can’t really give advice without more details. Lots of what ifs, but missing info on my process and materials used. 💁🏼♀️
I tried out kilz primer. Just picked up some primer today for the tile, MAPEI EcoPrim Grip. It’s mainly having trouble sticking to the joint compound, but the adhesion to the rest of the drywall isn’t the best. Would work for just paint, but not my favorite for tile.
There’s always one Debbie Downer in every group, and you definitely take the cake. Congrats on bringing some extra negativity to Facebook – like it needed any more!
I’d recommend using an orbital sander to remove old primer. It might remove some drywall paper, but that shouldn’t be a problem. As long as the wallboard is stable, you’re good to go. Just make sure all joints are properly covered or filled.
I’m relieved you didn’t try to install cabinets on “wonder board”. That would have been a mistake.
Haha, not the entire wall. But I probably should have done it where the tile was going to be placed.
I’ve witnessed tile being effectively attached to various surfaces before. Since it’s not for a bathroom, you might be able to use the same material underneath to secure the tiles. I can’t recall the brand names, but it’s a mesh-like material.
Avoid installing tile directly onto drywall at all costs.
Sorry , but that information is incorrect. You can actually install tile on drywall without any issues as long as the surface is properly primed.
Hey , technically you CAN install tile on cardboard if you really want to. But is it a good idea? Definitely not. A professional would never recommend doing that.
Hey , it seems like you’re not too experienced with tiling. Tiling drywall, especially green drywall in bathrooms, is a common practice in 95% of jobs, except in showers and specialty areas like saunas or spas.
So, what’s your go-to for a kitchen backsplash? I’ve tackled my fair share of tile jobs on drywall, and I’ve also seen a bunch of contractors do the same.
Hey, mentioned that we typically install the purple board in a way that allows the tile guys to work easily. The cement board should be 2 feet up.
Said that he applies green rock, muds all corners and joints with mesh adhesive tape, primes the walls, and then paints aqua-defense over that. He mentioned that he has never experienced any issues or complaints.
If you’re in a humid area, try getting some fans or a dehumidifier to help out. Also, if you’re tiling over the wall, it doesn’t have to be flawless. Just peel or scrape off what you can, apply a quick skim coat if necessary, wait 3 days, and then prime again.
I just found out that I need to wait 3 days after applying joint compound. I picked up some MAPEI EcoPrim Grip today to re-prime.
Suggests putting a layer of fiberglass board or cement board in front of it. You might want to wear a Tyvek suit since fiberglass can be itchy. And don’t forget your n95 mask and safety goggles. Consider using stainless screws for added security.
I remember receiving this advice years ago when I was skim coating my son’s room. It was a very humid summer day. I let it sit for 24 hours, but when I started rolling the primer, it was peeling off the plaster. I had to redo that part, set up a dehumidifier and fans in the room for 3 days, and it turned out fine in the end.
It seems like that would make the wall much taller than the cabinets. I personally wouldn’t go for that.
I can’t spot any cabinets in this photo
If you decide to replace it, consider using blue or yellow fiberglass boards, or even cement boards. I live in a humid area in the mountains and skip plastering. Just use grout and tile. The blue and yellow boards are common in new high-rise construction behind bathtub tiles. Although pro union carpenters usually don’t wear tyvek, it might be worth the investment for your comfort.
By the way, they typically install double layers of yellow and blue boards for fire safety. It’s best to stagger the joints to prevent moisture build-up and mold growth that could affect other units.
Make sure to place cement board in the areas where you plan to install tile. Cabinets should be installed over drywall.
Here’s a handy trick from an experienced tiler… Attach chicken wire or hardware cloth to the wall, similar to a lath and plaster technique. I often use hardware cloth in commercial projects, especially when bullnose tile is being installed on glossy finished wooden partitions, like at bank teller stations. And in all my years of tiling, I’ve never had any issues or callbacks on these jobs.
When it comes to your new mud work, did you remember to lightly sand it first? Make sure to use a tack cloth and vacuum the area to ensure it’s free of dust before priming. Have you thought about taping the joint at the ceiling? It appears unfinished to me and should be completed prior to any painting.
After mudding, I prepped everything. I probably didn’t wait long enough for it to dry. Tiling all the way to the ceiling and used spray foam above, so didn’t bother mudding that joint