Is there a way to check if the spray-in insulation in my attic was properly installed to prevent moisture issues?
Asked by Nihal Suvarna 
3 months ago
Last Updated: August 23, 2024
Hey everyone! I’m not an expert, so I thought I’d ask if anyone has any knowledge on this. I just purchased a new house and I’ve heard that spray-in insulation in the attic can cause issues with moisture if it’s not done right. Does anyone have any tips on how to check if it was done correctly before I complete the attic?
I initially mistook it for foil.
Same
It’s a good idea to have a moisture barrier inspection done twice a year – once at the start and once at the end of the year.
How would someone go about doing that? 😂
Recently hired an insulator to conduct moisture barrier checks. They utilize a machine to check moisture levels in ceilings and walls.
Pointed out how close the beginning and end of the year are, just one day apart.
Recommends scheduling maintenance every 6 months.
Also performs vapor barrier checks to ensure that you are not losing any heat or air.
You completely turned around there
Thank you!
December 31 and January 1 are the best days to try it out.
Oh , they refer to it as a whole house depressurization test and it’s not specifically testing the vapor barrier, but rather checking for air leakage into or through the building envelope.
Hey , that’s approximately 180 days.
Hey, I would estimate to be about 365 days old.
Could you clarify which moisture barrier you’re referring to? We’re familiar with vapor barriers, at least. Could you provide a link for the moisture barrier?
Just a tiny fraction of a second away.
Hey , have you heard that song by Warren Zevon about looking for a place called Lee Ho? Oh well, never mind lol lol
Hey , I have the same meter, but I thought it was for testing moisture levels in wood, concrete, and brick. I’ve never heard of using it to test insulation with short pins like those 📌. To test insulation, you might want to consider using a moisture meter with longer probes like Delmhorst’s 21-E electrode with #608 insulated pins, which can penetrate up to 3 1/4 inches deep (they also have a 6-inch penetration option).
Consider investing in a thermal imaging camera to easily pinpoint problems.
Is this foam soft to the touch or is it firm?
Typically, the problem is just the indoor humidity, not so much the foam. Without knowing if it’s closed or open cell, it’s hard to say much more. Open cell feels soft, while closed cell feels hard.
Looks like had a tough time with it, almost like there’s some kind of paint on top.
I think might have fire retardant sprayed on it. If it’s closed cell, you shouldn’t need a vapor barrier and can just frame over it as it is.
So based on what I see, it looks like you don’t have ridge vents, and I do believe that attics should be ventilated in some way. Did you have an inspection done?
Ridge vents help with air circulation by allowing hot air to escape when the attic is not sealed with foam. When sealed with foam, the attic becomes a conditioned space.
It all makes perfect sense when explains it.
Has the perfect answer. Absolutely spot on.
At this point, it might be too late to stress about it. Your house has already been insulated in this manner, so finishing the attic shouldn’t make it any worse.
Before you start a big project up there, you should check if the framing is in place. Are the floors sturdy enough? Is there a support for your walls and ceiling? How much modification will be needed to make everything fit? Based on the photo, I would say probably not, probably not, and quite a bit, but a closer look might reveal a different story.
Hey , your initial statement about this being finished and completed is not accurate. It can actually be removed and redone properly before the final job. This should be inspected by someone who knows what they’re doing.
Transformed that space into a room, increasing both the square footage and the value of the home.
It’s probable that you have baffles leading to a ridge vent, I would assume. Can you confirm this from the exterior or are you aware of the presence of a ridge vent?
Hey, there are vents located on the exterior
Ridge vent becomes ineffective once it has been fully foamed.
My Home had an accompanying team come in and spray foam my attic tightly. Unfortunately, we faced serious humidity issues afterwards.
In order to combat this, I had to set up a professional dehumidification system, but even that didn’t completely solve the humidity problem on the upper levels.
As mold problems started to arise and health issues emerged, a mold company informed me that an air exchange unit was supposed to be installed when sealing houses with spray foam. This is because there’s no way for moisture to escape.
I strongly advise against using spray foam in an attic to anyone I know, and I will avoid purchasing a home with spray foam in the future – it turned into a nightmare for us.
While it might be acceptable in a basement, I will never recommend using it in an attic again 😞
Both my pets and I suffered from severe illness for three years before realizing that the humidity problems had led to mold growth.
Consider getting humidity meters to keep track of moisture levels in your home and identify potential issues.
Wishing you all the best.
It’s totally fine if it’s done correctly.
Yes, it’s commonly known as sick house syndrome. Your ventilation setup should be designed to bring in fresh air. Depending on the weather conditions, an ERV or HRV is suggested for a comprehensive home ventilation system.
Yeah, we had a tough lesson with almost $20,000 in medical expenses out-of-pocket for me and my pets that insurance didn’t cover. Not to mention having to leave our home for over four months during the initial mold remediation… basically just moving between the couch, bed, doctor visits, specialists, surgeries, and procedures, trying to figure out what was ailing me. It turns out it was exactly what you’re talking about – sick building syndrome due to poor ventilation from their spray foam work. They sealed our house so tightly that it was down to 7 Pasquales – claiming it was beneficial and would save us money, but in reality, it didn’t save us anything and ended up costing us our health, and as a result, ultimately our home… I will strongly advise against that after everything we went through 😞. Closing up a house so tightly to reduce energy expenses, only to then have to set up a system to bring in fresh air just seems completely illogical to me – it won’t save on energy costs and you’ll end up spending more to power an electrical system to circulate the air that was present before sealing it up 🤦♀️. My electricity bill soared as I tried to manage the humidity.
The insulation by itself didn’t cause your sickness. It’s actually the lack of ventilation that led to it. I wouldn’t avoid spray foam entirely. With the new energy conservation code requirements, spray foam is the best option to meet the necessary R-values for the exterior walls. You also must have proper ventilation. You need to bring in outside air into the building and push carbon dioxide out. A good home is one that has multiple systems working together to keep you safe.
I’m here to learn the right way to do it. Please share, I think more people should know. 🙏❤️.
I really hope installed baffles along the ridge vent to keep your roof deck in good shape. This allows air to flow from the soffits all the way up and out through the ridge vent.
Research indicates that there isn’t a significant difference in the lifespan of roof shingles on hot versus cold decks, as long as the hot deck is installed correctly. This is because many cold decks are also not properly installed.
It invalidates the shingle warranty
It may not be accurate for every manufacturer. You can’t generalize like that.
Works at Owens Corning
You are correct that insulation alone does not lead to illness. The issue arises when insulation is installed in a way that obstructs ventilation, resulting in mold problems and poor air quality.
Furthermore, the chemicals used to treat mold can further worsen air quality. After our experience, our home had persistent odors during hot summer months due to these chemicals.
Therefore, I have decided to never live in a home with spray foam insulation again.
I have to disagree. CertainTeed is willing to warranty unventilated attics, and GAF and OC still offer warranty coverage even for unventilated attics. While the warranty may not cover damages caused by the unvented attic, such scenarios are rare under normal circumstances. The concept of hot decks has been around for some time now. I received written confirmation from an OC representative three years ago that they would warranty the roof on my house with a hot deck.
Ventilation should not rely on holes in the walls. In the past, people used to install class 1 vapor retarders on above grade walls with fiberglass insulation, leading to significant mold issues.
Proper installation is key. Instead of blaming the product, consider whether it was installed correctly and paired with a proper ventilation system.
Depending on your climate, closed cell foam may be necessary in colder regions to achieve the required r-value, unless you want thicker walls to accommodate fiberglass insulation for r-30.
I thought that looked like a bed with the duct resting on top of it, like something out of a mystical, mysterious, magical, and mythical wonderland of madness and snowy fairy tales. Or maybe something else entirely.
Hey , I know right? 😅😂 My brain didn’t register it as an attic either, I saw more of a mythical forest or wonderland. It was so confusing for a moment haha
Hey , I feel the same. At first, I thought it looked like a mermaid too
Hey , just wanted to say you’re not alone in feeling that way!
Same!
Having proper attic ventilation is key. Poor ventilation can lead to those problems.
If you’ve bought something recently, it’s a good idea to reach out to your home inspector and ask about any issues or feedback noted in the report.
This reminds me of the old-school installation foam they spray on the ceilings of ancient gymnasiums to prevent heat and A/C loss.
You might be considering fireproofing.
According to the professionals who provided a quote for spraying our attic, as long as it’s open-cell insulation and a dehumidifier is used, moisture issues should be under control.
My understanding is that a metal roof doesn’t require ventilation. Many new constructions are following this practice.
Clarified that shingles, not metal, are being discussed.
Agreed that ventilation is necessary for metal roofs.
Mentioned that corrugations provide ventilation.
Just a quick note – using a foam gasket plug at the eaves and top can be an exception to the ventilation rule.
Oh, really? I don’t have an attic to ventilate, so I wasn’t aware of that.
Hey there, I wanted to mention that it’s actually important to ventilate metal roofs even if they seem sealed. If there’s an unheated attic space underneath, ventilation is key.
It really comes down to the climate, the type of insulation used, and the roofing material. Closed cell foam insulation is starting to address the issue of sealing attic air leaks. It’s still relatively new, so only time will reveal its long-term effectiveness.
Closed cell spray foam insulation has had a 25-year history.
Proper ventilation is crucial for all types of roofs, it’s just basic building science. Without it, moisture can build up and cause rust or rot over time.
Wow, there’s definitely a lot to learn about roofs! I made sure to use quality materials and get the job done right. I’ll have to figure out how to properly vent the metal roof soon!
If the cavities are all filled with foam, and it appears to have a fire retardant on top, it is likely a vapor barrier. Normally, heat and humidity should not pass through this insulation unless there is a roof leak, which could go unnoticed for some time.
Wait, what do you mean by finish? No one planned for this to be completed. Are you planning to cover it with drywall? To answer your question, it seems like there’s no consideration for airspace. If that’s rigid spray foam, it won’t matter what you do if it’s trapping moisture. Finishing it off won’t change anything.
Attics that have been foamed in are not ventilated. They are sealed tightly, and temperatures typically run just a few degrees hotter or colder than the conditioned living areas. Most spray foam is open cell. If there is living space above a humid area, closed cell spray foam is usually used to prevent moisture transfer. For instance, in a Florida home where a garage with living space above it is opened and closed frequently throughout the day, the garage ceiling is insulated with closed cell spray foam to prevent humidity from moving up into the living area. Insulation requirements and methods can vary significantly depending on the climate zone, so I’m specifically addressing a Florida home with open cell and closed cell spray foam insulation in the attic and ceilings.
Was the insulation checked when you bought the house? What did the house inspection report say about the attic and insulation? Since it was exposed, he should have provided a response.
Mentioned during the inspection that the foam insulation in the attic seems to be X thickness and should have an expected R value of X. It is currently exposed and poses a considerable health and safety risk if exposed to heat. It is recommended to cover it with noncombustible material.
The finishes should have been started before framing out. Make sure the floor is sturdy enough to support a living space. I hope there is a fire-rated spray layer over the foam to protect against fire.
Hey, did you notice those two windows in the room? Opening them up and installing a fan should help with ventilation. Congrats on the new home! I bet it’s going to look amazing once it’s finished.
Thank you 😊
Roof ventilation is designed to cool the asphalt roofing material exposed to the sun, not the inside of the house. Having insulation tightly packed right beneath the roof deck can reduce the roofing’s lifespan, and many roofing companies may limit the warranty if proper roof ventilation is lacking
I came across a few articles discussing this and they mentioned that it’s not a big issue. So if I decided to proceed, I wouldn’t worry about it
Maybe he has a metal roof? Not sure. A lot of people are opting for that over asphalt shingles
Oh, definitely, who really needs a roofing warranty anyway?
You know, let me share my experience with you because I once had a warranty on my roof that ended up failing. The shingles started separating and only the replacement of new shingles was covered, costing $500. The remaining repair work amounted to $8,000, which was not part of the warranty coverage. Big deal, right?
Hey, did you know that the roof itself requires an airspace between the roof deck and the insulation? This is crucial to prevent the decking from rotting due to the sun and heat in a cold environment. When the wood sweats, it can lead to structural damage and more. Closed cell is excellent as a vapor barrier, but remember, there must be an airspace above the insulation and below the decking. It seems like there’s some confusion between attic ventilation and roof ventilation.
For instance, just look at how damp that chimney is – the water needs a way out.
And still, tens of thousands of homes are in good condition.
Yes, for 20 years. It’s all part of planned obsolescence. Once those roofs deteriorate, everything from the sheathing to the insulation will need to be replaced, not just the roofing. Good luck trying to remove the deck without the insulation coming off with it when it starts to rot.
You never know, right?
Using closed cell insulation will help save money on power. However, if you want it to last longer than your roof and protect the roof deck, it’s important to use an air barrier. As Bruce mentioned, not using an air barrier can void your roof warranty.
Ok
Make sure to run a dehumidifier and connect a drain to avoid any condensation build-up.
You see those light fixtures on the ceiling? When you’re done, I suggest putting a couple of small fans there to push the air downwards, away from the ceiling. This way, if needed, it can be vented out a window. ‘t stress too much about it, though, you already have good air flow with those windows.
In all my years of working on roofs, I never thought it would be a good idea to have my attic spray foamed. I’ve had to replace so much rotten wood because of spray foam. If there’s a leak, you won’t even realize it because the water gets trapped in the foam and just spreads, leading to a nightmare.
I’m truly amazed. How about we add a photo of Fred Flintstone using photoshop somewhere in there?
While the window is still open, consider adding some skylights, maybe?
Improperly placed skylights can lead to various issues like discomfort and high energy costs. It’s important to carefully consider their placement.
I personally prefer a dormer window to a skylight. It allows for more control over solar gain and light, with a reduced risk of leakage (though that may not be a concern).
I have had skylights for over 30 years now. Never had any problems. Getting them professionally installed was definitely worth the money. The natural light they bring in is amazing and I enjoy seeing the stars at night.
All it really requires is some ventilation and proper conditioning.
As long as they installed poly-vents from the soffit to the Ridge vent before applying foam, you should be fine.
Are you saying that the foam is covering the baffles and they are attached to the decking with staples?
Stefan
Is incredibly innovative! Can you believe that the entire 4-5″ spray foam is supported by those small staples on the baffles? Even with really thick staples, the baffle’s shear strength wouldn’t allow for that.
Was informed that these vents are specifically designed to withstand spray foam being applied over them.
Pointed out the need for sufficient exposed structural lumber for the foam to adhere and solidify in order to form a shell in the rafters bay.
Make sure there are baffles or some space between the roof deck and insulation to avoid long-term issues like roof damage, mold, and wood rot. Moisture can cause a lot of problems there. Also, check out how wet the chimney looks in that photo – could be a sign of leaks from above.
There are no baffles for closed cell insulation
The common belief that it’s acceptable stems from the typical 20-year lifespan of a roof. As long as it lasts that long, many people consider it safe.
Heat from the sun on the roof and moisture…I’ve always advocated for the inclusion of an air barrier (which can prevent mold growth).
Indeed acts as a moisture barrier, trapping moisture against the wood deck. Over time, natural elements will likely cause damage. It’s important to monitor shingles during windy weather due to the increased risk compared to an air barrier.
It’s known to cause health problems; I’m aware that my state attempted to pass a bill to ban turf and flame retardant products. In my experience, many electricians and other tradespeople aren’t fans of spray foams.
Being a professional from Cape Cod, Massachusetts, I’ve noticed that many people are making their homes more airtight incorrectly. I suggest having a company inspect your home’s insulation and HVAC system. Most airtight homes require an HRV if they experience excessive humidity in winter. Additionally, an ERV is beneficial if your home is too dry. When constructing a high-performance home, hiring an engineer is crucial to accurately determine insulation needs for each room. I recommend AprilAire and Santa-fe for indoor air quality solutions.
How are you planning to hang drywall on that chaotic area?
I’m really not sure yet… 😂 I might end up shaving, who knows?
Definitely needs a shave, right?
Hey, I’m bald so I’ve got that going for me
Hey Lucas, I faced the same dilemma 4 years ago. It was really stressful, I didn’t want to mess up and regret it for years. It’s a tough decision to make. If you figure it out, please share what you decided on.
Insulating is all about limiting the movement of heat. Vapor barriers are crucial for limiting the movement of water vapor, which is the moisture in the relatively humid indoor air during winter. Both are essential. If a wall or roof is insulated without a vapor barrier on the warm side, moisture issues can occur due to condensation.
Hey , do you mind if I shave it down to the drywall over it? I still need to do more research on it but I’m just starting to brainstorm, haha.
Hey , I believe it would be a good idea to trim it to be even with the rafters before drywalling over it. If I were you, I would suggest having an insulation contractor examine the attic so you can ask them that question and confirm if a separate vapor barrier is necessary. It’s crucial to ensure that wall and roof assemblies are done correctly to avoid potential issues that may go unnoticed until they become major problems.
Hey Dean, thanks man! I’ll have someone come check it out before making any decisions.
Sounds good! I have a decent amount of background and experience, so I kind of understand how things work, but I also know that I might be missing something. Do you think that shaving closed-cell foam could affect its vapor-barrier performance? If so, maybe you could still shave it but then add a vapor barrier before putting up the drywall? Do you think it would be best to hire an insulation contractor to handle the shaving for you? That way, it won’t be a huge pain to do it by hand over the next few weekends. Maybe the professionals have better information than what we can find online from well-meaning folks? 🙃😎
It feels spongy so I’m not certain if it’s closed-cell foam 🤷🏽♂️
Hey, as a guy on the internet just trying to help out, I would definitely recommend calling some insulation contractors to come take a look.
A lot of people are talking about venting, but when it comes to spray foam insulation, that’s not the way to go. The mold is usually caused by old insulation being left behind and trapping moisture. If you only have spray foam insulation, you can consider installing a whole home vent in the attic to circulate air. Personally, I don’t have one because my doors open frequently with my dog, kids, and going in and out of the garage. This helps freshen up the air in my home. Good luck! 🙂
You could totally just paint over that, haha. Looks like there’s a ton of spray paint everywhere.
If the attic remains at ambient temperature, moisture won’t continuously rise. Therefore, ventilation needs are the same as the rest of the house. Just utilize a humidity gauge for monitoring.
All these individuals claiming special ventilation is necessary are mistaken. Simply keep an eye on the humidity level.
Do you have air conditioning in the attic? If you do, then there’s nothing to worry about!
I’m not going to get too deep into it, but you should consult an expert with a blower door to determine if your building meets the air flow standard. Depending on how much air is flowing, you might require additional ventilation.
If you use your a/c unit all year long, it should help with the moisture issue. There’s also a product called damp rid that you can use to absorb any extra moisture.
I’m not an expert, but there are Wi-Fi enabled moisture meters you can use. Connecting it to your phone can help you keep track of humidity levels. It’s a good idea to get a blower test done as well. Look into home energy audits or rebates in your area, and consider getting professional inspections. By the way, is that rust on the venting up there? Hard to tell from the photo.