Is the washer’s bad motor, bad wiring, or failed receptacle the culprit behind the cord replacement in your front load washer with a 1950s plug?
Asked by Delphine Harris 
3 months ago
Last Updated: August 23, 2024
Hey, so I’ve got this situation with the cord from my front load washer, and the plug is from an old 1950s outlet without a ground. Someone replaced the receptacle within the last 20 years to make it accommodate a grounded 3-prong plug. They didn’t use a j hook, though – just tightened the wires straight into the screws.
Now we’re wondering what’s causing the issue – could it be the washer with a bad motor, bad wiring, or a failed receptacle? Love getting everyone’s input on this, just wish the Ai bots would stay out of it!
I believe a worn outlet is the likely cause of the loose connection.
“ALL OF THE ABOVE”
I really hope not…
Loose wiring, increased resistance, potential overheating, breaker designed to trip
Haha, , the breaker didn’t trip, that’s what got the conversation started!
Hey , the breaker won’t trip unless there’s a short circuit or an overload
Hey , why did you assume the breaker would trip?
The breaker won’t trip in this case. It just considers the extra load as normal. The issue here is likely the old receptacle with weak connections or the load exceeding its capacity. The washer might be drawing too much current for the 15 Amp receptacle without causing the breaker to trip. And if the neutral wire wasn’t securely tightened, that could be a problem too. To accurately measure the washer’s current draw, you would need to use an amprobe after replacing the receptacle and ensuring the wires are properly connected.
Another “quick fix” perhaps
Arc faults won’t trip the breaker, that’s why arc fault protection is so important in today’s electrical codes.
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Absolutely
When there are poor connections, it leads to high resistance which results in heat at that specific point.
Just a note, it’s actually the neutral contact that overheated… seems like there’s an issue with the contact pressure in the outlet itself but since it’s on the neutral side, it’s probably not a load problem.
The neutral would experience the same load as the hot wire
It doesn’t matter if it’s a neutral or hot wire. The current flows through both equally, and either terminal can overheat.
Exactly… Also… So if it was only related to the load… Then both would have overheated… 😔
Ensure the outlet can support the washing machine’s power usage. Some cheaper outlets can only handle two hundred and fifty watts
Could you show me a standard receptacle rated for 250 watts only please? I don’t mind waiting.
Possibly a cord issue…the cord definitely looks worn out!
Remove the plug, and provide us with resistance readings between the wires and the prongs. Let’s get this done correctly!
Is that cord suitable for the appliance?
Typically loose connections are caused by having no hooks. It’s hard to determine if the outlet is 15 or 20 amps. Also, if it’s not tamper resistant, it might not hold the plug securely for a washer, leading to a loose connection. Was it a dedicated outlet? It should also be FI protected, either at the outlet or the breaker.
This house is not up to code, OSHA is nowhere to be found. lol (considering when it was built and the DIY renovations I’ve witnessed)
Yeah I can see that. But there could be multiple factors causing the outlet to overheat. I would recommend making sure it’s dedicated or calculating the load on the circuit. Putting in a FI tamper outlet should do the trick 😂
It sounds like the outlet is a 15 amp. The neutral terminal probably burned due to resistance caused by loose connections.
Mentioned that the wires weren’t properly connected, just “tightened” directly under the screws. I’m thinking that’s what caused the issue. Yep, that was my initial thought too! 👍
Hey, check out this 15amp 125v outlet. Take a closer look at the middle screw hole – it’s imprinted in the plastic.
I was attempting to figure out what was saying, but I couldn’t quite make it out!
Any electrician worth their salt should be able to glance at that outlet or socket and immediately recognize its rating.
Is that in the photo or for real? Oops, this picture is blurry and I forgot my glasses 😂 It’s hard to tell from the picture what gauge wire was used for the outlet or what size breaker it was connected to. Keep it down, silver fox, shhhhhhhhhh.
If it’s not looped but still tight, there’s enough surface area to carry the rated current. If that wasn’t the case, you would see heating damage at the screw, unlike this example deeper within where the plug blade connects. This clearly shows a poor connection of the blade to the sleeve. It’s likely due to a faulty receptacle. If concerned, measure the motor current while it’s running… By the way, where I work, we test and record pull-out tension on critical receptacles every 6 months, and yearly for all others.
Hey , you didn’t mention anything about the wire; you mentioned you couldn’t determine if it was a 15A or 20A receptacle or plug, but it’s clearly a 15A receptacle and plug.
Hey , is that 15A 125V outlet to the left of the screw hole?
Hey , I also noticed that in my questions and observation of the picture. You can also see heating and burning above the top screw behind the socket. Clearly, it’s a low-quality outlet without a rating, and we have no idea about the wire size and breaker it had or if it was even dedicated. Since it’s for a washing machine, it shouldn’t have been plugged and unplugged frequently. Also, there’s a possibility of moisture or water getting on it. So, as I mentioned, I would just replace it with a tamper-resistant FI or breaker, and verify if it was dedicated and on the correct breaker for the wire size.
Hey, pointed out it’s a 15 amp outlet. No need for it to be tamper resistant. Same goes for the FCI, and whether it’s dedicated or not doesn’t matter… this receptacle is old enough that it comes before all those codes.
Hey, mentioned it’s a 15 amp receptacle.
Laundry rooms are required to have a minimum of one 20-amp circuit for outlets serving washing machines or gas dryers. The lighting circuit should not be linked to the 20-amp laundry circuit. Electric dryers need their own 30-amp, 240-volt circuit with four conductors. All laundry room outlets must be equipped with FCI protection.
Yes, current code does state that…. And everything else is grandfathered in…. If it wasn’t necessary when the building was constructed, it’s still not required.
The problem lies with the neutral connection, which is always due to a loose connection. Whether it’s caused by the screws loosening or the device’s tangs. It’s always due to heat contractions and retractions. Time takes its toll.
I’m guessing you haven’t been doing this for very long… Or at least haven’t handled any residential service work
So you’re just planning to put in a 15 amp outlet that’s not tampered with and lacks FCI protection and call it a day? 😂 I’m showing him how to address the issue and ensure it’s safe and up to code 😂 I’m really confused at this stage
So you’re just planning to put in a 15 amp outlet that’s not tampered with and lacks FCI protection and call it a day? 😂 I’m showing him how to address the issue and ensure it’s safe and up to code 😂 I’m really confused at this stage. Aren’t you going to check if it’s 12/2 and connected to a 20 amp breaker or verify the load on the circuit?
Incorrect amperage was also my initial thought.
You’re not exactly telling him how to fix it, you’re more so comparing it to current code. It does need to be FCI protected, and since it’s an older home, it probably already is, especially in the bathroom… If you can’t tell if it’s a 15 or 20 amp just by looking at it, you might not be qualified to advise on how to repair it… Tamper resistance doesn’t necessarily determine how well it holds up.
The screw doesn’t appear to be heated, so I doubt that’s the issue, especially since new plugs are designed without the hook, just straight wire with two plates holding it in place. It’s actually quite easy to differentiate between a 15 and 20 amp receptacle…
Looks like a 15 amp outlet, but 20 amp outlets can work the same. It might be an outlet failure if the wire isn’t melted and the side screw isn’t damaged. Whether it’s tamper resistant or not, FCI or not, this seems to be a load issue, not related to FCI shock hazards. Probably a cheaper hardware store outlet. But it could also be the male end (plug), I can’t see the side view to check if the copper is burned. If the copper isn’t burned, the wire connection inside the male plug is probably the issue. Most failures are usually outlets, but my bet is on a bad cord.
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Probably unrelated to the 40-year-old receptacle
Me saying bad washer..bad motor
Receptacle/plug connection failure. The neutral side melted due to a loose connection between the blade and the socket. Increased resistance leads to more power (P=I×I×R), more power results in more heat. Heat leads to melting components.
I wish we had a side view of the blade, seems to have rough edges and clearly discolored from heat. I’d bet it’s just as you described. Probably due to space heaters and window units on worn out outlets. ⚡️😎
Seems to be a cheap or old receptacle, possibly with loose internal connections.
Blade Contacts in the receptacle heating up, unrelated to the screws. Simply a cheaper receptacle.
I like to change my receptacles every 5 years for safety reasons.
The outlet had a loose connection.
Is 14 gauge wire okay?
Upgrade both sides to 20 amp devices. And double-check the amperage, just to be safe.
That receptacle is a 15 amp one. I switched to using 20 amp ones years ago as they hold better.
A 15 amp rated receptacle doesn’t have a horizontal slot in the neutral… a 20 amp rated receptacle DOES HAVE A HORIZONTAL SLOT in the neutral. A proper 20 amp male plug has the neutral prong with a built-in horizontal slot that only fits a 20 amp receptacle, and won’t fit into a 15 amp receptacle.
Consider using a new cord and a new 20amp outlet or a commercial 15 amp outlet. Check the power draw and remember Ohm’s law. This usually points to a loose connection issue, specifically on the neutral side.
It’s more likely around 35 years old. I’ve had to replace most of my outlets and switches. I switched to higher amperage outlets and switches. It’s surprising how many people just opt for the cheapest outlets
No shepherds hook, but was it secured properly? Small details can make a big difference.
Terminal seems fine, just a loose connection in the receptacle.
Indicating that the receptacle is worn out. That was my point lol.
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This happens when devices are plugged in continuously. Receptacles clean themselves but if left plugged in without cleaning, they oxidize more, creating resistance and heat. The heat leads to more oxidation and resistance. You follow?
I think it was the wire connection to the spade in the plug.
Replace both, and check for heat, if possible, monitor amps. Ensure there is no vibration from the washer being transmitted through the connecting cable. I have observed vibration from years of use that appears similar to this.
That container didn’t come from the 1950s. Hey, do me a favor and double-check yourself, dude
That outlet appears to be worn out, causing a bad connection with the neutral.
The outlet was the first to fail. The heat from it caused the surrounding components to burn. I installed a 20A FCI as a replacement. When converting 2-wire to a 3-prong, it’s important to always use a FCI.
Old outdated receptacle, plug slightly loose causing a poor connection resulting in overheating.
That plug does not date back to the 1950s.
My assumption is receptacle failure due to loose contact from plug to receptacle causing resistance. Switching the receptacle to FCI will meet code without the ground wire in old existing house wiring. Some may disagree with me, but it is the recommended solution by the authorities with jurisdiction. Most will suggest rewiring the house, but FCI is a much better alternative.
Maybe those straight wire terminations have been arching due to a poor connection over time.
It seems like the plug was already used, given the broken ground opening at the bottom. The grip on the cordend might have weakened due to this.
Faulty receptacle.
Loose connection on the appliance side.
The poor connection on the neutral side could be due to the plug pring not making proper contact with the receptacle’s internal contacts. It’s hard to say for sure without having the materials for evaluation. If there was a bad connection at the wire and screw terminal, as suggested, the burning would likely occur at the screw terminal. The burnt spot indicates where the poor connection was. ‘t just take my word for it, conduct your own experiment. Leave a loose wire intentionally on a breaker or receptacle, then apply a heavy load to see the result.