Is the presence of 47 volts back feeding through the cable due to a bad ground or neutral, even if the hot wires are tightly secured against the ground rail in the breaker panel?
4 months ago
Last Updated: September 3, 2024
I’ve been dealing with some trouble at home – the cable guy told me there’s 47 volts of electricity flowing back through the cable. I tried using a regular multimeter to check for voltage, but I didn’t get any readings. He mentioned there might be a problem with the ground or neutral. I’ve looked everywhere, but I did notice something strange in the breaker panel. The hot wires are tightly zip tied against the ground rail. It might not be a big issue, but I could really use a second opinion from someone who knows more about this stuff.
I remember an appliance technician once suggesting that our 20 amp breaker was supplying too much amperage to the appliance, causing it not to work. 🤷
Got into a 20-minute debate with a licensed electrician while arguing that the 40 amp service breaker to the stove were both on the same pole. He proved it in the end.
That’s a good one haha
That’s funny. Our facilities director used to work as an electrician, so I was excited to share with him what the vendor thinks is wrong 😆
Haha true
I never got why people say they are an electrician by trade. Like just say you’re an electrician. I’ve never heard a licensed professional call themselves a certain trade by trade.
So I heard you can purchase a license from China on Amazon haha
Hey there, I work as an electrician but I also dabble in many other trades 🤣
Wondered about how it was possible to connect a double pole breaker on the same pole, based on their limited experience.
Mentioned that you can use a E slim breaker, to be honest.
Noted that with E slim breakers, you can avoid crossing phases when installing a double pole 50 on the same pole.
A 4th generation apprentice, did not attend school or read books – a common trait among “no clue” electricians.
Dislikes E panels with thin wafers.
Mentioned the Canadian version of Federal Pacific, which can be installed on the same pole.
Doesn’t sound like it should cause any issues.
I wouldn’t recommend attaching it to the ground/neutral bar in the service entrance, even if it’s technically allowed. I’m curious to hear other opinions. Best of luck!
Made it into the book.
Hey, it’s Saturday! I totally agree. My gut reaction is a definite no on that. Personally, I would steer clear.
No worries
Make sure everything connected to the cable is turned on and then check.
Just having it strapped to the ground bar isn’t the main concern for me. I’m contemplating the possibility of a wire that may have had its insulation worn or rubbed through partially. Something like that.
Hey , did you happen to figure out what was causing the issue?
Hey , it’s possible that you may have a faulty device like a washing machine, stove, or dryer that could be backfeeding power. Once you identify the problematic breaker, check that circuit along with all the connected appliances to identify any loose neutrals or faulty appliances. Make sure your water is properly grounded and connected across your meter to the grounding electrode and panel. Double-check that everything is secure.
Hey , no I haven’t.
Thanks for the heads up, . I’ll look into that.
‘t think it will really make a difference, but definitely get rid of that.
I would suggest disconnecting the input line from the cable company and checking the voltage between the shield and a ground in your house…
If there’s voltage, it could be a faulty service neutral. If the voltage disappears when the power is off, it’s a neutral problem.
If the issue persists, it could be related to another property.
I agree with you.
Start with the neutral.
There might be an open neutral
Tell him to use his meter to test it out. Start by turning off the main breaker to see if the issue disappears. If it does, turn the main back on and test one breaker at a time until you identify the one causing the back feed he mentioned. Then proceed from there.
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Snip that cable tie
With the top response in this thread
What mentioned is precisely the right course of action.
Gave some awesome advice and kudos for being a decent person and not tearing down the author.
Trying to track down a ground fault is like a never-ending chase.
Reat advice, . I remember someone calling once because they were getting shocked by their Dish Network line. The process you explained is pretty much the same.
Make sure to check for any corrosion on the neutrals inside your breaker box and at the meter base. It seems like your cable ground is in better condition than your power neutral.
Try unplugging the LMR cable in the street to check if the cable amplifiers are being powered from there or from the house service.
First things first, ask them to clarify what exactly was measured, where, and why they’re referring to it as a ‘backfeed.’
Consider going with induction and keeping the cables separate.
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Make sure the cable box isn’t back feeding the cable line. It’s important that both the cable line and service are properly grounded.
Is it 47 volts AC or DC? Seems pretty close to 48VDC, which is used in some audio gear, don’t you think?
Power over Ethernet operates on the identical 48 volts
I believe there may be an issue with the neutral wire or a loose connection, possibly on the power company’s side. I recommend seeking help from an electrician to resolve the problem safely and prevent any potential harm.
Watch out for unsafe wiring arrangements in the panel where the hot wire is tied to neutral. If the insulation of that connection becomes brittle, it could potentially cause a fire. Ensure to inspect the wires first, as there may be a grounded portion in that connected area.
About a year ago, I dealt with this issue where the neutral in the main service transformer was loose.
Seems like there might be a weak or open neutral between the transformer and the main panel.
Try doing the taste test
I have experience working as an electrician and cable tech. In my experience, if there is voltage injected into the cable system, it’s likely coming from the pole, meter box, or a faulty coax port on the modem.
Who also worked in cable before entering the electrical field, had the same initial thought.
Inspect each neutral connection in the panel and ensure they are all secure. You can use a zip tie to cover the access for extra safety
Consider calling an electrician 🤔
I think I’ll start with checking the service neutral before the meter main.
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O ahead and remove the zip ties to take a closer look
Make sure not to connect your hots to the ground bar or neutrals to the ground!
My guess would be a potential poor connection before the weather head.
Make sure to remove the zip ties as a priority
The only common connection point that I know of with cable around me would be where they tap off the ground rod wire to the panel. There is a chance that the neutral coming over from the pole is not properly connected. However, I have also come across a few older homes where a bare copper wire is tied to the neutral out of a plug and then it runs the length of the attic. It was used for some type of radio setup back in the 50s or 60s.
I remember a similar situation back when I was doing industrial maintenance. There was a grounding problem that led to 340 volts on the property fence. We had to replace a converter card in the DCS cabinet. While I doubt you have the same issue, it’s worth conducting a thorough inspection of the grounding and bonding.
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The cable guy mentioned there is 47v on what exactly? round, coax, or Ethernet? If I remember correctly, Poe is 50v. Are we discussing ac/dc? Induced voltage. Coax receivers and signal amplifiers send power or voltage into the coax. How does a cable guy not know that?
Oh man!
Opt for a low impedance meter
I’ve encountered cases where dead wires tied in a cable tray showed as high as 120, even though I personally disconnected them at both ends. It turned out they weren’t live, but due to being zip tied to other wires, my fluke meter indicated they were hot. This has happened multiple times due to the proximity of high and low voltage on these machines. It might be worth checking, or having someone check, where the cable line is connected and runs under the floor or elsewhere, to see if it’s connected to any electrical components.
Ive the electrician a call.
Hey, everyone needs assistance, . It’s also a great opportunity for others to learn or brush up on their skills if they’re not doing it regularly.
1) Choose not to skimp out
2) Bring in an electrician
3) Compensate the electrician
4) Prepare to carry the label of being frugal for the rest of your life
Disconnect the cable from the box or wherever the main feed is connected and measure the voltage difference between ground and core ground due to possible coupling of the 120 to ground if the wire insulation is bad.
Their ground connection has been lost.
Ensure that the ground rod is intact and the #6 wire is securely connected, as it may have been accidentally damaged by a lawnmower.
Cable companies typically connect their systems to the electrical ground. If that’s the case, you should look for a different ground. Induction might also be a factor.
The cable guy once mentioned to my mom that our internet issues were due to a tight connection. It turned out to be a problem with the house’s wiring, not the cable itself. It took multiple calls for them to finally diagnose the issue.
Cable guy?
I wouldn’t rely too heavily on the cable guy’s knowledge. As a former cable tech and current LV tech, I would bet on this being an appliance issue. If it were a genuine electrical problem, I would expect to see 120/240 instead of 47. I have witnessed the consequences of a faulty neutral or ground, as well as the strange things lightning can cause. However, I have also observed appliances behaving oddly. I suspect there may be a transformer somewhere that has malfunctioned and is sending this unusual voltage down the wrong path.
You’ll find some skilled troubleshooters offering solutions here.
The system is currently trying to find a ground, a solid connection or neutral point, and it seems like there may not be an available water ground for it to connect to.
I once had an HVAC technician tell me he got a shock from a dead 480 volt line that was next to a live one. He said both wires were damaged in the same spot. Checked all seven wires with a megar, no issues found. His meter showed .040 to ground. Ask him to show you the voltage reading to be sure. No point in chasing a ghost.