Is my plan for running circuits in my basement sufficient or are there any missing elements or suggestions for improvement?
This is my first time diving into electrical work, but I’ve done some solid research and this is my blueprint for wiring circuits in my basement. Can you take a look and let me know if anything seems off or if you have any suggestions for improvement?
I plan on wiring the bathroom separately (light, outlet, exhaust fan) and the bedroom separately as well (4 outlets + ceiling fan/light – not too concerned about 12/3 for wall switch, remote is fine). I’ll connect the smoke detector to the existing system in the basement. The lights in the theater and mechanical room will each have their own circuit, using LED low wattage lights, so I’ll probably stick with 12/2 wire throughout and may opt for a 15a instead of a 20a breaker. I’ll split the theater room into one run with 7 outlets and another with 6 outlets to make sure I don’t exceed the 8 outlet limit.
Seems fine to me
I would suggest using 12 gauge wire for your theater lights since the run is 150 feet long. Additionally, I recommend running 12/3 wire to the ceiling fan to control the fan and light separately.
I’m really thinking about going with all 12/2 wiring. It might cost a bit more, but it’s probably worth it to make sure everything is properly set up. I thought about 12/3, but most of the fans I like don’t work with hardwired switches, only wireless remotes (perfect for controlling from bed!) or pull chains, so I’m not sure if it’s really necessary.
Just an FYI – You don’t actually require a 20 amp circuit for the bedroom. Two or three breakers should suffice. Also, don’t forget to install a smoke detector in the theater area and ensure it is interconnected with the other smoke detectors in the house.
Hey, good idea with the smoke detector, there’s one already connected in the theater area. Thinking of upgrading to 15a for the bedroom. Theater room definitely needs at least 2 breakers for all the AV equipment and gaming PCs, also for the appliances in the bar area. Bathroom should have its own breaker. Maybe combine the bedroom with lighting, but the lighting run is quite long, so prefer to keep them separate in case of a trip and not end up in complete darkness.
For lights, use 14 gauge wire and opt for surface mounting instead of recessed.
Have you thought about why surface mount vs recessed lighting? I was thinking that recessed lights can use LED bulbs, which are convenient to change or match later on. I haven’t actually installed either, so I don’t have a strong preference on that.
Mentioned that an easier installation and lower cost are big advantages.
Hey , do you have any recommendations you could share?
Decided to go with recessed LED 6-inch pancake type lights. Surface mounts might hang too low in a basement, but they work great over a bar or table. You should check these out!
Awesome, . The price is right and it seems like a straightforward task!
Are you planning to install a light for the stairs as well?
Sorry for any confusion, this print only displays the new additions I have in mind. The current unfinished basement already has lighting at the bottom of the stairs, lighting/outlets in the storage areas, and the necessary smoke/carbon monoxide detector.
Unless you’re thinking of performing surgery in that large room, 8 LEDs might be excessive. Even with a dimmer, it will still be overly bright.
If you can, I recommend purchasing 4 of the same type for that main area, attaching them to the ceiling with velcro, and setting them up with an extension cord. (Since they have low wattage, it’s safe to power them all using an 18-gauge “light duty” extension cord.)
This way, you can see how much light they emit and adjust their placement for even coverage.
For the niche near the CAT6 jack, I assume that’s where the equipment will be placed? Try using just one light, preferably an eyeball fixture that can be angled towards the gear.
This is my kitchen with only *three* canless LED’s…
How about putting the lights on 2 or 3 separate switches, each with dimmers? Then if he ever wants to perform surgery, he’s all set with the lighting! Just a thought.
I’m basically taking the design from my smaller family room, which is well-lit and has 6 main area lights. The space for the bar is where the 2 lights are located. The bar area is 10.5ft x 6ft, and the theater area, excluding the bar, is 22ft x 8.5ft.
I totally agree with the comment on the number of circuits. Stick with 15-amp unless the code demands 20-amp. This way, you can use 14/2 awg wire, which is not only easier to work with but also less expensive. With LED fixtures and modern electronics, 20-amp circuits are unnecessary. Calculate the total wattage of all appliances that might be on simultaneously and ensure it’s within limits. Remember to follow local codes and consider AFCI breakers, not just GFCI outlets.
Also, I’d skip the Ethernet wiring altogether. Opt for mesh WiFi routers on each floor instead. These routers allow seamless movement around the house without switching between WiFi hotspots. All routers combine as a single WiFi access point, offering sufficient speed for HD streaming internally. Essentially, your external Internet connection is likely to be the limiting factor, not your internal WiFi network. I had Cat-5 Ethernet cables in every room of my house when I built it 20 years ago (most rooms had two). While it was great then, I now rely on WiFi for almost everything.
I believe a 20-amp circuit is necessary for the bathroom. With all the A/V equipment, gaming systems, theater accessories, and other devices we have, it’s essential to have a reliable power source. Having movie nights or gaming parties means everything could be running simultaneously. We definitely like to have a good time! I think a 20-amp circuit should cover all our needs, including the lights. And it might be more cost-effective to get two 250-foot rolls of 12/2 wire than buying different lengths for the same total footage. And yes, using AFCI breakers for everything except the bathroom, where GFCI outlets are needed due to wet conditions, sounds like a good plan. Always learning!
AFCI is the type of breaker found at the panel, while GFCI is the type of outlet. In my area, AFCI breakers are required for all new circuits. Additionally, GFCI outlets are needed in areas like kitchens and bathrooms. Installing GFCI outlets doesn’t negate the need for an AFCI breaker. Make sure to check your local codes. By the way, who doesn’t love a popcorn machine?
I recommend determining the number of outlets needed for the theater equipment and then doubling that amount (or adding even more…haha). Typically, men tend to expand their sound and AV systems over time to outdo their friends’ theaters…haha. It’s just a suggestion. You might also consider installing wall lights behind the audio equipment for easy installation and future adjustments to the system. Additionally, a smoke and CO alarm in the theater room would be a good idea.
Yes, this number of outlets is definitely double what I think I’ll need. Also, there’s already a smoke/co alarm in the theater area as it was required by code when they built my original basement, which is what I’ll connect to for the new bedroom alarm. My apologies for any confusion, in this diagram, I only included items I am adding, not those already present. Adding a light for equipment is a good suggestion, I had thought about creating an AV closet, but I haven’t decided yet on the exact location for everything to go.
No confusion my friend..it’s all good….just pointing out observations after the work is done that people may wish they had done.
Definitely, I’m realizing my print might not have been clear to those who weren’t already aware of what was there haha but I tried to make it as simple and easy to understand as possible.
Nah…your print was good
Why not connect the theater and bedroom lights to the same circuit? Also, unless you have something plugged into every theater outlet simultaneously, you could probably combine them… but why so many in the first place?
Fair questions! I made sure to put the bedroom and theater lights on separate circuits in the basement so if one goes out, the other won’t be affected. As for the high number of receptacles, I’m planning on having a home theater with lots of electric components. I’m considering different options for setting it up, especially since I’m using a ust projector. This room will also be used as a gaming room with at least 2 PCs. I thought it would be more cost-effective to add more outlets and circuits now rather than later.
If you intend to use it as a theater/media room in the future, divide your recessed lights into more zones with separate switches. It’s convenient to turn off the ones near the screen independently and keep others on in other areas. You never know where you’ll place things.
Hey Alex! Just wanted to give you a heads up on the switches – one is for the “bar area,” another for the “main” theater area, and the last one connects to an outlet near the ceiling. Our plan is to make all the lights dimmable, and we’ll be connecting the ceiling outlet to LED strips that will run around the perimeter of the theater area behind crown molding for some nice ambient lighting.
Is thinking about using something along these lines.
14/2 shouldn’t be on a 20 amp breaker.
Hey , I was thinking of using 14/2 with a 15 because it’s only for the lights, but to keep it simple I’ll stick with 12/2 instead.
Sure, that sounds like a fantastic plan. And no need to worry. I happened to notice 20A with a 14/2 and figured I’d bring it up.
The bedroom light switch is located on the wall next to the closet.
Why did do that? I assumed keeping it next to the door is common practice
The walls are dirty, searching for the switch in the darkness. I resort to that only when there’s no other option
Left it near the entrance as a reminder
For your home theater gear, make sure to connect it to its own 20 amp circuit and place the breaker at the top of the panel to avoid interference. Install a double outlet.
I find it challenging to set up my equipment because I’m still figuring out the best placement. I might rearrange things to find the setup that works for me. Having a UST projector and no in-wall speakers gives me some flexibility.
Make sure to place the in several locations on your panel to avoid sharing a circuit with other devices plugged into your equipment receptacle. It’s important for maintaining the resolution of your system.
That’s correct, the theater room was divided into two 20-amp circuits for that very reason. Perhaps I should consider splitting it into 3 circuits for added safety.
I was wondering if there is a second way out of that bedroom?
Indeed, the house was built in 2022 and is now ready for completion with a spacious egress window and plumbing rough-ins for the bathroom. Here’s a picture from before that area was framed.
I really hope you obtained the necessary permits for your do-it-yourself electrical project.
Hey, got the general building permit, electrical, HVAC, and plumbing approved. Learning so much from this project! But man, paying a fortune to the city haha
Great, that protects you from many issues. I’ve witnessed many individuals attempting DIY projects without following regulations. People who have no experience working with electricity trying to do so because they watched someone else do it in a video without the proper permits.
I’m not an electrician by trade, but I believe the bathroom’s 20amp breaker should be dedicated to a GFCI outlet. The lights, fan, and other devices should be on a separate breaker. Be cautious when using a hair dryer along with other appliances to avoid tripping the breaker. However, I could be mistaken.
‘t forget to make sure your panel load is balanced.