Is it possible to use T111 or smartside paneling on top of zip board instead of vinyl siding to save money when siding a shed?
Asked by Abhinav Shetty 
6 months ago
Last Updated: June 29, 2024
I was thinking about putting siding on the shed, but vinyl siding seems way too pricey. I’ve heard that T1-11 and smartside paneling can be attached directly to the studs, but do you think it would work if I put it on top of the zip board instead?
If you’re primarily focused on cost, the best option would be rough sawn board and batten from a local sawmill. T-111 comes in as a close second.
Hey, thanks for the input. I’m just wondering if adding both zip board and T1-11/smartside might be too heavy. Also, could I encounter issues with window casings due to the thickness of smartside?
Whatever you put up should be nailed into the studs through the sheathing
Is there a more affordable option similar to vinyl in terms of thickness and weight that I could use instead? Could I just paint the zip board?
The nails we use for T111 are perfectly fine. Why the worry about weight? Is there a building integrity problem?
Appreciate it. No structural problems.
Painting over Zip sheathing would be a disaster. It would clearly show that I was clueless.
Sean used galvanized nails with fluted design.
I had no idea that siding can be nailed anywhere on the sheathing!
When installing ph Smith for vinyl siding, make sure the fastener goes into material that’s at least 1.25″ thick. Wood sheathing adds to the thickness, but it’s usually not that thick. Head back to your trailer park.
Hey ph Smith, don’t forget that Hardi lap needs to be nailed into the framing with a 2″ penetration.
Hey ph Smith, let’s simplify things. Since you’re so clever, can you find a siding that only needs a 7/16″ penetration as per the manufacturer’s requirements? I’ll wait.
Hey , do you know how to install siding properly? Most sheathing has foam or house wrap covering it. You can’t just ignore the nailing schedule.
Ph Smith makes it clear that most sheathing should never be covered with foam. House wrap, sure. But foam, definitely not.
Let’s work on your reading comprehension. Need help understanding words like “penetration” and “nailable”? For vinyl siding, you must have a 1.25” penetration into nailable material. So, even with a layer of 1/2” foam over your 7/16” sheathing (if you happen to live in a strange world), you still need that 1.25” into nailable material. Therefore, your fastener needs to be 1/2” longer to compensate for the foam. It’s not as complicated as it seems. In fact, it’s probably equivalent to 4th-grade math. You might want to ask a 9-year-old to assist you.
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According to the James Hardi installation instructions by ph Smith: “Hardieplank must be securely attached with consistent spacing to the structural member”.
Can you please provide the text that you would like me to rephrase in a conversational tone?
Ph Smith
Did you figure out the materials needed? If you’re planning to do it yourself, you could tackle one side every week or every two weeks.
Hey, I’m actually selling the house so I need this done as soon as possible
So why not go for it now
Investing in corners, J channel, starter strip, and vinyl siding is a good idea. It seems like you’ve made great progress so far.
I appreciate your kind words and advice, thank you
Vinyl siding is quite competitive with T1-11 on a per square foot basis. When you also consider the maintenance costs of T1-11, it evens out.
Hardie board and batten is an affordable and simple option that has a fantastic appearance.
Is a pro at working with pallets!
First, put up 3/4″ furring strips and then you can attach your preferred siding material.
Sure thing.
LOWES – T1-11 is priced at $44.00 for 32 sqft. Vinyl double 5 is priced at $37.00 for 32 sqft.
Actually, , the vinyl might end up being more cost-effective.
Vinyl comes at an affordable price.
Did you have some extra ZIP from a previous project? Wondering why you opted for ZIP on a shed when you’re trying to save on vinyl costs?
I actually constructed the shed a while back and never got around to adding more durable siding.
Oh, I see what you mean. I was actually thinking the exact same thing. It’s interesting to choose the expensive Zip system and then be concerned about the cost of siding. Vinyl is probably the most efficient, simple, and cost-effective option.
Yes, you’re good to go with putting T1-11 on top of sheathing, no problem at all.
Hey Scott, we nailed the 5/8” T1-11 directly onto the studs.
We used it to sheath the
Yeah, you can, but installing the zip board was just a waste of money
Hardi
I’m not sure how it is where you are, but in my area, LP Smart Siding (lap siding) costs about $1.56/sf. However, the price can vary based on what’s currently on your house and your personal preferences.
Okay
Do you happen to have a sawmill nearby that can provide rough-cut lumber for board and batten siding?
I think based on your current situation, going with vinyl siding would be the most visually appealing option. You could also consider cement siding, but it may be more expensive.
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T1-11 siding
You can find shiplap spruce or pine for 1.50 a square foot at a local mill. Vinyl isn’t the most attractive option.
Just attach some 1x6s and apply some stain. The next person can remove them and do as they please. It will remain sturdy and visually appealing until the property is sold 🤷🏻♂️
It’s hard to find something more affordable and durable than vinyl.
For better options, LP smartsiding or Duratemp would be preferable over T 1-11
You should take a look at Menards for siding
Vinyl siding may be inexpensive and unappealing. Consider getting hardi plank from Home Depot along with their white plastic wood grain trim boards for a striking contrast. LP smart side has been known to fail, especially when the cuts are not properly sealed and painted. Hardi is made of compressed concrete dust, making it more durable although slightly more challenging to work with. It comes pre-painted. Avoid purchasing vinyl.
In my opinion, , Hardi is probably not the best option unless you’re in a very dry climate. They’ve had a lot of legal issues and constantly update their installation guidelines. I’ve witnessed numerous instances of it failing catastrophically.
For the James Hardie siding, , it’s known for being highly durable and fire resistant, but it does come with a slightly higher price tag compared to other alternatives.
It seems like there’s no space for siding on the gable ends. You wouldn’t want the siding to stick out past the rake boards.
Consider using 3/8 rough sawn plywood with vertical battens spaced every 12-16 inches.
Hey, , you were mentioning a specific kind of thing, while I was speaking more broadly. So we’re actually both right
We had T1-11 on our house for 30 years until we decided to put siding on it. It’s best to stain the T1-11 instead of painting it.
You could try board and batten with a rough cut and either stain or paint it for a much cheaper option than vinyl.
Secure chicken wire or hardware cloth and then apply stucco on top of it.
Yep
T1-11 costs more than siding once you consider the coverage. A single box of siding can cover a 20×10 area.
If you decide to place the T-11 on the zip board, it would render the zip board useless. The zip board and siding are practically the same.
Metal. Just use the panels, run them vertically, take care of the trim corners, and that’s it.
No need to paint or replace it for at least 75 years.
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