Is it normal to have such a wide space to cover with molding after installing an exterior door without adding drywall first?
Asked by Lyam Vidal 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 21, 2024
We had a new exterior door put in, and we planned on adding the casing ourselves. However, we’re a bit surprised by how wide it turned out to be. I’m just not sure if we should add drywall before putting up the molding. The contractor told us this is how it’s normally done, but I’m still not sure about covering such a big space with molding. What do you think?
Did they take out a 36″ door and put in a 32″ one? Using wider trim can hide that, instead of the usual 2 1/4″ trim.
I was thinking the same thing too, .
Yep, exactly right. It was originally a 32” door with sidelight that got converted to a 40” door.
Hey there, just wanted to mention that installing wider trim might actually be more cost-effective than doing a sheetrock patch job for a small area that includes sheetrock, mud, tape, texture, priming, and painting.
Look for drywall that matches the thickness of the one on the wall to patch it up, then apply tape and joint compound.
Haha gum lmao
Haha I’m just getting into remodeling and repairs, so I’m still picking up on the jargon. 😄 I know it’s not back bitter, silicone,, and there are just so many types of mortar, I couldn’t think of that word.
Haha with drywall it’s actually called mud. I got a good chuckle out of it but hey, that’s how we learn!
If you try to add to the doorframe on the side with the hinges, it might not open correctly.
It seems like the door frame isn’t aligned with the drywall, like it’s supposed to be. You’ll have to extend the frame to align it, then either add a wider door casing, or fill in with drywall, complete the job, and use standard trim.
I bet you were surprised by how costly it was to scope it out. haha!
There are numerous issues with this installation
Hey , could you provide some more details for me? 🙏
Just and only the new text:
Hey , could you provide some more details for me? 🙏
The expansion foam should be the first thing to address, followed by replacing the drywall from the wall to the door on both sides. Make sure there are no shims between the jams and nailers. It seems like the person who installed this door may not have much experience or a license. The installation of the door may cause issues with swelling and difficulty in opening during different weather conditions.
Additionally, make sure to double up the nailer stud
Thomas expresses his gratitude
“Standard procedure”. Make sure to have a written list of what the contractor will and won’t do for the price. Considering your current situation, opt for a wide trim or fill the gap with drywall and tape it up.
The replaced door is now bigger. You’re left with the aftermath. First, seal those cracks with foam to keep the cold air out. Then choose between patching the drywall or using 1×6 to trim it.
Start by removing the two skinny pieces of baseboard. Then, use a multi-tool to cut the narrow pieces of drywall on both sides, up to the corners and level with the top of the door. Cut two new pieces of drywall slightly shorter than the door casing. After mudding and taping the corners, your project should be complete. Avoid cutting two narrow pieces to fill the gap, as the door casing might not cover the seam properly and it could remain visible.
Check out this post from Robin!👆🏻
After insulating, we’ll patch up the drywall and add the trim like we always do. It’s pretty common when there’s a change in door sizes. It’s unfortunate that you ended up with a contractor who couldn’t or wouldn’t finish the job.
Did you even read the post? T.J. Whittington just wanted the door installed.
I heard they were going to do the casing later, but it looks like the contractor didn’t finish that step. From a contractor’s perspective, the surface needs to be flush with the jamb before casing the opening.
Sorry, I’m not sure what you’re asking for.
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If you only paid for the installation of the door, then this is the outcome. Additional charges would apply for drywall and casing. Who measured the door? Was it a different size from the original?
Hey , I totally get it. I probably should have double-checked with them, right? The initial design included a door and sidelight.
If you’re altering door sizes, you might encounter a common issue where the door casing doesn’t align with the drywall, requiring you to extend the jam, apply drywall, tape mud, and trim. Best of luck!
Begin by installing the sheetrock
“Standard practice” is a way for industry professionals to do the minimum amount of work. Personally, I wouldn’t have left it that way. I believe in constant communication with clients when things don’t look right, like the change in the door opening, and keeping them informed throughout the project. This is why I have a YouTube channel – to educate people. Everyone else seems to have covered the necessary steps: padding the void with drywall, taping, mudding, and painting.
Nice work! They used full studs to frame the reduced size instead of just shims and spacers for a sturdy anchor for your hinges and trim. It seems like you got a high-quality installation for a door that was resized to a narrower width, even though you didn’t want to pay for the trim work.
It’s clear that your opening is larger than the new door. It appears fine but needs proper trimming, which should only take around 30 minutes. It would have been better to have the professionals handle the entire job instead of trying to cut costs.
Hey , you’re most likely correct. I still need to check out a few other doors in the house, so I thought I’d take a look at this one too.
Doesn’t seem so terrible; I guess it’s only about 4 inches, so trimming it should be simple. You could even consider a lintel trim on top👍
Just a group of carpenters.
Maybe they should’ve used drywall and completed the job.
Seems like they’re all out of spray foam…
Was the width of the old door greater than that of the new door, or are they the same size?
Hey , do you know how to properly punctuate a question?
Mentioned that the previous door wasn’t as wide, but it did have a sidelight.
Hey there, just to clarify, the extra space needed to be filled in. Personally, I would have used drywall and then added trim.
This is the process when the new door doesn’t come in the correct size. Do you know who placed the order for the door?
The door doesn’t seem to be installed correctly. The two studs on the hinge side shouldn’t be separated by foam. The new studs also seem to be level with the drywall, which is wrong. The drywall should extend and meet the jamb. It’s difficult to confirm from this picture, so it might not be the case. They were supposed to frame a 42″ opening with double studs on each side. It would have been better if they had first drywalled it before putting in the new door. What did they do on the outside?
You’re right, I didn’t even notice that upon closer inspection.
Yeah, I totally agree that the framing was off, but the responsibility falls on the homeowner if they agreed to handle the interior finish themselves. The existing drywall is sitting where the old door and sidelight used to be left. If it were my house, I’d fix the framing on both sides and remove the drywall up to the corner on both sides, extending 2 feet above the door to have a single piece of drywall covering the entire area from corner to corner. This way, we can avoid dealing with constant cracked mud at the door corners.
Hey , who did you end up negotiating with – B or C??!!
Make sure the drywall aligns with the door frame. ‘t forget to insulate the small gap. Was the previous door wider?
Mentioned that it used to be a door and a sidelight before. The framing looks like it’s set back as if drywall should be placed on top.
Yes, the anonymous participant said that the jam should stick out about half an inch.
It seems like you installed a narrower door – what other outcome did you anticipate?
I thought the drywall would already be included haha, now I just want to confirm if that’s the correct process moving forward
Framing needs to fill in the gaps, having only one 2×4 on the hinge or strike side can weaken the frame that supports the door
It always comes down to money so yeah he asked you to pay for the installation of the door, not the finished product
Hey there, . It really depends on what you discussed. If trim wasn’t included in the payment, then I wouldn’t expect the drywall to be completed either.
Hey , that makes sense. No problem at all. I’m just curious if it’s okay to trim over the entire gap or if I should do the drywall first.
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Did they frame everything? I’m trying to figure out why the Sheetrock was removed. Was the original door a different size?
Yeah, mentioned that it was originally a door with a sidelight.
If the new door is not wide enough to fill the gap left by the old door, additional framing may be added to create a new sized hole. The Sheetrock could be the size of the old door or cut to center the new door in the old hole. But why isn’t the inside flush with the Sheetrock? Is the door flush on the outside?
The outside of the building looks fantastic according to an anonymous observer!
It seems like you need to make a decision…I prefer wider trim with an old school style, but ultimately you should choose a style and size that you like. Take your time to research and make a choice that will last for many years. Also, consider the proximity of other trimmed doorways to avoid having mismatched styles.
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Here’s an easy fix: just don’t pay
Why did install the door?
That job was done poorly.
The framing was done incorrectly. The door should not be attached to just one stud; it should be securely nailed to the original framing for better stability.
Most of the time items are priced separately unless specified otherwise. Typically, installation is one fixed price, and finishing work is another. For a job like that, it would have been around $700 for demolishing the old door, installing the new one, and finishing. But I tend to offer really competitive prices, so it could be even less.
Why not? There’s nothing wrong with it. You must be one of those. I’ll take what’s mine then it will be an easy solution, you cheapskate
Is not doing anything wrong, just let him complete
You are not the best person
You could work on drywalling the space and take the time to mud and sand… Personally, I’d suggest persuading the customer to consider using larger flat stock molding 🤷♂️
Drywall work is not included. Charges for taping and mudding are also additional. If these were not discussed in the proposal, it is not to be expected. Typically, the cost of installing the door is similar to that of drywalling, mudding (if necessary), and trimming it. This does not include the expenses for prepping, painting the trim, and priming and painting the patched walls to match the existing color.
Hey , that seems reasonable. I thought it would be included too, haha. No problem!
Everyone talking about what the installer should have done needs to understand they weren’t part of the original agreement. If the installer’s job was just to install the door and not do the finishing work, that’s what you should expect.
As a professional, I would have clearly outlined all the additional steps needed beyond just filling in the extra space and hanging the door. I might even have put it in writing for documentation purposes.
The photo isn’t clear enough to provide a fair assessment of the installation, but there are some aspects I find questionable. I wouldn’t judge without a clearer photo for confirmation.
If you mentioned the extra steps, cheap would have probably scoffed as if you’re just trying to push something unnecessary on him and cheap could handle it himself. But then you come across posts like this
Thank you for sharing your thoughts, John! 🥰
You got it, anonymous participant! Wishing you good luck on finding someone to do it for a second time 😅 Sometimes saving money can end up costing you in the long run, so maybe the next person you hire from Craigslist will do a better job!
Yes, we’re facing issues with the door installation. The main problem is the single stud that the hinges are connected to. I recommend sending some pictures to the person you hired and checking if they’re satisfied with the work. It’s likely that this was done by a subcontractor.
So, I’m a bit confused about where the issue lies. Were you aware that this door was smaller than the original one with the siding? Should the installer also handle the siding outside if they’re responsible for the drywall? Was any of this discussed prior to the installation? What seems to be the problem here?
Why not just include Sheetrock in the project? I doubt he included sheet rock repair in his estimate, so it’s not surprising. It’s all in the details.
I’m not arguing with that. I’m just curious if opting for extra wide trim is truly the most suitable choice in this situation. Based on what others have shared, it seems like a viable option.
So, you need to relocate the sheetrock to install a door, right? I think it looks okay. What type of door casing were you considering?
Installers can get in trouble for doing too much or too little.
I haven’t really seen that done where I live. Typically, the drywall should be flush with the stud that’s closest to the door frame.
Place drywall strips on both sides of the door, then mud, sand, and paint it
You know, it might be a good idea to start by adding the drywall to make the space a bit shorter.
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You had your door installed and got what you paid for, maybe even at a cheaper price. You probably thought you could handle it yourself after the installation, not realizing the additional steps involved. Watching too many home improvement shows where everything is done in 30 minutes can be misleading. So, there’s more to it than you originally thought, and that’s why you thought you would save money. Starting with adding sheetrock and then your door casing. It could be a good weekend project for a beginner, but you might need some extra tools here and there. So maybe for another $250-300, or even $500, you could have potentially saved yourself the hassle or hired someone to do it.
If you feel like you need to make some changes, you can cut into the drywall or use some 1/2″ or 3/4″ pine as furring, then add thick casing around it. The casing can be nailed into the jam and will overlap the drywall slightly. Just be careful not to split it.
Give it a little upgrade with a thicker casing.
That’s not a problem at all. If the casing was installed, you wouldn’t even notice. But really, there’s no issue. To all those who are criticizing and laughing, let’s see your installations without the trim. 🙄
I allowed myself extra space for the rough opening, but in my opinion, it appears satisfactory 🙂
You most likely received what you paid for! 😜
The first mistake was not allowing the contractor to complete his work. It’s too late to change it now!
I picked up a lot of valuable insights from these comments.
Got the impression that contractors are not trustworthy… yikes
Oh, I totally understand the importance of knowing exactly what you’re agreeing to before contracting anything, so there are no surprises in the end.
Wider architrave, nothing wrong. Let the guy finish up and move on with your life.
You were aware that doors typically come in standard sizes, so the opening was already there. That’s impressive!