Is it normal to have a tiny bit of bounce in random spots when installing cork-backed LVP, even after thorough floor prep and leveling?
My husband is taking the lead on installing this cork-backed LVP flooring, which is nice because it doesn’t need underlay. He’s really skilled at figuring things out and always strives to do a good job. He’s tackled tiling, recessed lights, and plenty of other projects in the past.
I have a question for anyone who has experience with LVP: is it normal to have a tiny bit of bounce in random spots? We’ve prepped the floor meticulously, removing staples, vacuuming, and checking for levelness. There are a few areas where the OSB pieces meet and raise slightly, but my husband has sanded them down to make them more level. Overall, the floor is pretty even, but there are a few spots where you can see a slight bounce if you press down on it. Is this just something that happens with LVP, or should we be concerned? Thanks for any input!
Many products can handle minor unevenness, like 1/8 inch dips. Usually, small bouncing problems resolve themselves once all boards are installed and supporting each other. It seems like you’re working on a well-prepped floor, which is great!
We have definitely been making an effort! We have been closely following it.
If it’s the really thin LVP, the manufacturer might say you don’t need underlayment, but trust me, from my own experience, it’s better to just get it. You might be facing the same issues you’re currently dealing with, plus it helps with noise reduction. I had to learn that the hard way.
According to many manufacturers, using underlayment can void the warranty if the LVP already has padding attached.
Even with an underlayment, we still have a few spots that feel hollow and bounce. I’m going through all the comments to see if there’s any valuable advice on how to fix this issue afterward. I did find a couple of helpful tips on YouTube, though.
I have 20 years of experience with this kind of work. It really boils down to the preparation and how even you can make the floor. One trick is to run a 10-foot straightedge to ensure the floor is level. They call it floating for a reason – there will almost always be some flexibility due to the compression of the underlayment. The only other choice is to opt for a glued-down product.
Yeah, , I guess no one’s floors are absolutely perfect. We’ve been paying close attention as we go up, doing some sanding or nailing down if needed. It’s been working out well, making the floors quieter and more stable.
I’m not sure how thick your flooring is, but using thicker LVP would be better for handling the dips. Applying a self-leveling thin set would help level the floor for all types of LVP.
Has a 5.2mm wear layer that is 20 mil.
Here! Just wanted to share that I used Lifeproof 6.5mm for my home remodel and it worked great with no problems at all.
I prefer using 12 mm thickness for LVP because it provides less give on uneven surfaces.
Based on my own floor installation experience, I suggest removing the existing work and self-leveling the entire area. I wish I had been more meticulous with our own floor.
We have actually removed and reworked two sections already! As we progress, we are testing the floor to check if it’s springy or not
I’ve come across new constructions with a bouncy floor. Just like Andrew mentioned, you might need to apply some leveling compound
For LVP thickness, the thinner ones will conform to the subfloor, especially if they are narrower planks (~5 inches). Wider or thicker planks usually won’t. I suggest using self-leveling to address any low dips. Unfortunately, dips will still be noticeable over time. For minor issues, I’ve used pieces of the cardboard box the LVP came in to fill the gaps, which helps.
My husband, who’s a Construction Engineer and loves DIY construction, mentioned… Have you checked for joists under the flooring? It’s important to look at the spacing of the joists and the thickness of the floor. If the joist spacing is more than 16 inches and the OSB subfloor is less than 1 inch thick, that could be causing the issue because a thinner subfloor can lead to more movement in the flooring.
It’s rare to come across subfloor that is 1” thick. I haven’t encountered it in my 30 years of experience in framing. Most subfloors are 3/4 inches thick, with the cheaper tract houses meeting the 5/8 code minimum. A 3/4 inch subfloor with 16-inch spans meeting the prescriptive code requirements also meets the L/360 deflection specifications for tile.
I double-checked with my husband, and they are spaced approximately 16” apart and are 3/4 inches thick osb. However, over time, they have expanded, so we had to sand down some seams to even out the surface.
Isn’t here at the moment. The majority of pre-70’s use 1×4 tng, then it shifts to 2×6 tng for the 70’s and early 80’s. In the 80s to early 90’s, 3/4 plywood was common, and from the mid-90’s to now, it’s 1 1/8” subfloor.
I tend to notice it more in older houses.
I used a 10-foot level to check for dips on the floor and then applied self-leveler to those areas. However, it still wasn’t sufficient. Perhaps the entire house should have received a light coat of leveler. I have a few bouncy spots that I might just have to live with.
Ensure that you are using a rubber tapping block to ensure the planks are securely in place.
Yes, Ashcroft, we certainly are! Things have been coming together nicely. It’s clear to see those gaps closing up completely.
I’m a flooring installer and I have my own company. When it comes to cork backed large LVP, if it’s bouncing, it could be because of an irregular subfloor or the seams not being completely locked together. This can create issues with the next row and make it seem bouncy.
I agree with you, . It’s either the subfloor or the planks not being fully locked in.
Thanks ! We suspect it might be the subfloor causing the issue. We’ve been making sure to click everything closed with a hammer and rubber block. Our house is from the 80s and there was some water damage near the back door that we had to fix. I think the flooring might not be perfect due to that. We’ll keep an eye on it, sanding and vacuuming as needed. Thankfully, most of it looks good, just a few spots are a bit bouncy.
I’m not a huge fan of cork backing, it’s just not very comfortable. My suggestion would be to pick up some tar paper tomorrow. It comes in a big roll and you can use pieces to shim your voids. That should permanently solve the problem with the stiffness of the planks.
That’s a good suggestion! Like doing a cut-out section for the worst areas, right? Overall, it’s not too terrible! We’re both perfectionists, so we want to make sure it’s done as perfectly as possible!
Yeah, so when laying your floor, start a couple of rows out, locate any bouncy areas, use your hands to determine the perimeter of the spot, cut a piece of tar paper slightly smaller than that area, and slide it underneath. It may require multiple layers or overlapping layers from row to row, but it does the job well.
Consider adding additional screws to your sub
Thanks! Actually, he added some as he prepped, mainly to fix creaks. We kind of noticed a little bounce as we progressed. But we did remove a couple of spots and tried to address the issue, which did help!
In my opinion, having voids and bouncy areas during installation will cause issues down the line. These areas can eventually separate and fixing them without starting over can be challenging. Keep in mind that if it feels bouncy during installation, it will likely remain bouncy.
In my experience, that’s just how it goes with LVP if your subfloor isn’t perfectly flat. Even the smallest difference can lead to noticeable depressions when you walk on it. Many LVP options don’t have strong locking systems at the butt joints, which is where issues usually arise. The best solution is pouring leveller in problem spots. I decided to switch to engineered hardwood (nail and glue) because of this issue. No matter what I tried, I couldn’t get my floor flat enough by pouring self leveller everywhere.
Right? I remember we had hardwood floors in our previous home and I personally prefer the look of “real” flooring. However, with two large, high-energy breeds, it ended up getting scratched pretty badly. We had it redone and added some extra protection, but it was disappointing to see! If we didn’t have the dogs, I would have definitely preferred hardwood floors here. I do like the look and color of this flooring though, so we’ll see how it holds up!😊
I put down 600 sq ft of flooring in a condo without Underlayment at first. However, I noticed some hollow spots and decided to redo it with Underlayment. Surprisingly, I was able to reuse the same pieces I had already cut! The floor feels much better now and the worry of potential cracks in the future is gone. My LVP was thin with no backing, making it easy to cut with a score and hand saw. If you’re considering adding Underlayment, save yourself the trouble and do it from the beginning. Trust me, you don’t want to finish, undo, and redo like I did!
It’s always a good idea to refer to your manufacturer’s instructions. Many floors with attached backing aren’t meant to have underlayment, and using it could void your warranty.
Hey, I don’t think you’re supposed to use underlayment with ours unless it’s over a water barrier or on cement.
Hey, our flooring has cork backing. I’ll need to double-check, but I don’t think they suggest using underlayment unless it’s being installed on concrete or over a water barrier.
It sounds like you need a vapor barrier instead of an underlayment for cork flooring. The floors look beautiful! In the past, I’ve used shims in problem areas to make it more stable. Best of luck.
Yes, it’s cork! I believe it only needs a vapor barrier when installed on concrete. We’re really liking the floors so far! I was a bit unsure about minor bounces since it’s a large area, but overall it’s great!
My floor was made of concrete and had some uneven areas due to the carpet installation, which doesn’t need sanding for smoothness.
Do you have Coretek Cairo Oak? Avoid adding underlayment – we followed the manufacturer’s instructions and added the thinnest layer for leveling over a crawlspace, but it has caused many planks to break. It may firm up over time, but it doesn’t handle a 1/4 inch uneven surface as advertised. Fill in large gaps and let the rest settle for a more even feel.
Yes, it is Coretec! I didn’t realize you could use underlayment with it, so thanks for confirming that and for the information! We were wondering if it might settle. It’s been in our garage, even though it says it doesn’t need to “set” indoors. There are mostly small bounces, with only one area where you can really feel where there was rot and the subfloor had to be replaced.
Oh, definitely make sure to let it acclimate in your house for 72 hours before finishing up, so bring in more before you’re done
Got it! We’ve got two pallets worth of it and I heard you don’t have to worry about swelling or shrinking like with some other materials, but just to play it safe, we’ll bring in some more!
Yeah, it’s meant to be dimensionally stable according to their instructions at https://coretecfloors.com/COREtec/media/Files/Instructions/SHA418_PROPLUS_InstallationInstructions_r2.pdf
Hey , I did read that part about 72 hours multiple times to make sure I got it right. It was a bit confusing, but I understood that it meant installing in rooms where the temperature can vary a lot (like four-season rooms) and it needs to be controlled before, during, and after installation for 72 hours. Anyway, just to be safe, we’ll bring in some more!
Ugh, can’t stand these comments! She’s practically begging for help, haha!
Shoot me a message and I’ll hook you up with the details
Grab a long level and check how uneven the floor is. I bet it’s worse than it looks (don’t worry about the floor level, just focus on flatness). I used Ardex Feather Finish to fill in low spots after sanding down the high spots.
Oh yeah he actually used a level to check different areas before installing, and he’s been doing that as we progress too!
It’s going to take a while to settle down. Manufacturer defects are quite common. Everything looks good for now!
I’m not a fan of that product. If it needs to be installed, luan should be stapled down perpendicularly at 1/4″.
I usually use self-leveler on the floor, if you’re not confident about using mud to level it, another option is to use lauan and lay it perpendicular to your lvp
Wesley Moore
I’m really loving the color! Would you be willing to share what color it is?
Hey , it’s actually coretec Cairo oak!
Thank you very much !
If there will be furniture in those areas, it will help keep the floor in place. If there’s a dip in a walkway, you might feel a slight difference. I’ve even used a bit of caulking in that area before. It doesn’t require much and has lasted over 20 years. I applied the caulking and then laid the floor over it. Once I had a few more rows in place, I stepped on that area to spread the caulking and flatten the floor completely. It wasn’t necessary to buy a full bag of floor leveler. You can skip using louan or any other product, but if there are significant dips, consider getting the floor filler. Your husband did an excellent job preparing the floor by sanding down bumps. Secure any squeaky or loose areas before installing the new flooring. I have experience installing floors in my rentals for many years. I’ve even used Louan over old plank flooring before, but only when they were in really bad shape. You’re both doing a fantastic job spacing out the seams. The floor will be more durable with the seams positioned like this.
My floor bounces in certain spots because it’s not perfectly flat. We probably should have done a better job leveling it. We’ve only had it for about 6 months. We chose cheaper LVP to cover the asbestos floors in our basement. If it doesn’t hold up, we may need to redo or replace it in the future.
We started by pouring leveler in both of my bathrooms.
Ph Michael it covers our entire lower level – around 1500 sq ft, I believe? We didn’t initially think about using a leveler, but for the most part, it seems to be flat. There are a few spots where the seams may have slightly raised, so he’s been sanding those down to even it out a bit.
I bet that will do the trick. We used a very similar floor to yours – lovely color! I’m sure you will be pleased with it.
It could be that your furniture is causing one side to weigh down before the installation is complete.
Do you think it has to be like that right now? We moved most of it to the front, but we ran out of room so we had to put it back there when we finished that section
Is doing well, and with two little ones, we need to find a place for them to play while we work on this 😂
It might have been too early.. I prefer to complete a room at least 3/4 of the way before bringing in any heavy items
Alright, it could be partially true. We had to move everything back as we ran out of space and it was blocking the kitchen while we were installing in the morning… oh, the joys of renovation life 😂
We actually have that same flooring in our house. There are 2 areas where I can feel it sagging a bit. Especially during the winter. You should be okay though.
I’ve had trouble getting that type of flooring to lay well when there are subfloor problems. It’s just too thin.
Tap all the joints with a white rubber mallet, you may need to cover it with cloth to prevent marks. Sometimes you just have to give it a good beating to make it settle. It’s really necessary 🙂
Got it, good to know! We’ve made sure to close the joints properly, but didn’t consider tapping from the top to settle things.
Absolutely! Using a mallet to tap things into place is crucial!
Oh, so we’ve been tapping them into place (with force & using a bridge piece) if that’s what you’re referring to. Not from the top but sliding into place to lock them.
Yeah, just like Erik said, once you have the plank in place, tap the edge to ‘set’ the lock. Let me look for a video
Oh, got it! Just like he mentioned, tapping at the edges. I wasn’t sure if that’s what you meant, thanks!
You can actually use one of the off cuts instead of cloth and beat that instead
That sounds like a great idea, we’ll definitely start doing that as well!
I have noticed that ours has a few spots like that (it’s in our basement)…. But it still looks good 😃
I can usually tell when I’m walking on floating LVP, like cortex, because there’s always a bit of bounce to it, especially with cork backed and brand new ones. Cork has some flex to it.
The only LVP that really feels like real wood when you walk on it is the glue down kind. People often mistake it for hardwood. I’ve had tenants ask me what’s safe to clean their wood floors with, and they couldn’t believe it when I told them it was vinyl and they could just mop it.
I’ll never install another Pergo, click together, or Cortex floor. Can’t stand them.
I’d throw in some Luan in the bouncy areas to help out. And keep in mind, if you don’t, the locking mechanism might break over time due to the weight not being evenly distributed.
What’s the deal with floating floors?
May I ask which brand of LVP you are using? The color looks great!
Hey , thanks a bunch for sharing about coretec Cairo oak!
Let it be. It’s common to receive these complaints when there is slight movement in small areas of two or three feet. It’s not a major issue.
Thank you! I thought maybe a little was acceptable. Honestly, it’s probably something that bothers us more than anyone else would notice 🤣
There is a community of LVP experts who can provide more insights and advice on how to install these floors.
When I remodeled my 80-year-old house, the general contractor I hired had his flooring team level out all the uneven spots, even with new subflooring. They used a 5-gallon bucket of material similar to this.
Said the self-leveling concrete from the home improvement store also works well, but she mentioned that they had already checked its level
A bit of bounce is fine since it’s a floating floor, which can happen in low spots. The floor will eventually conform, unless it’s a significant low spot. Achieving a perfectly level floor is difficult, and it usually remains imperfect. The key is ensuring the seams are locked in properly to prevent them from popping out in low or high areas.
Thank you! We made sure to be very detailed with the seams, making sure they are all the way in so hopefully that will turn out well!
Every now and then I’ve had to use a belt sander on OSB seams. During the initial installation, there may not have been enough room left for expansion, causing the sheets to press against each other and bulge slightly, forming a raised area.
It might be too late to fix it now, but it’s worth checking the other seams and sanding if needed
Sure thing!
Do you know what type of flooring this is?
Coretec Cairo oak! I’m a big fan!
When it comes to installing Coretec, I enjoy it a lot. It’s normal to have a bit of bounce, so don’t stress too much about it despite what some comments may say. 15 years of experience in flooring installation.
Hey Kevin s, yeah I agree that the installation process is pretty easy overall, although there are a few tricky cuts I tend to avoid. But once you work around those, it’s smooth sailing!
That’s really beautiful
Thank you! I really like the appearance and coloring of it. Plus, it has a durable wear layer, which is great.
I couldn’t agree more with all of that!
A few years back we put in LVP flooring and encountered similar issues; it’s best to steer clear of aligning LVP joints directly over these OSB joints. Other than that, you should be good.
I never even considered that, but it does make sense!
Juan Potgieter
I believe you’re referring to where the OSB panels meet. This often happens when OSB gets wet. Your best bet is to use a belt sander to make it flat where they meet.
Thanks Keith! We have an orbital that he’s been using, but a belt would be faster!
I agree with . We also had to use a belt sander to accomplish the same task. It may be labor-intensive, but the end result is definitely worth it!
We kept it in our basement and the instructions said we didn’t need an underlay, but it looked so awful that we ended up removing it to put down carpet. It really was a mess.
Oh wow, ! What was the brand you used? I’ve heard great things about it too! So far, I’m pleased with it, but I know not all brands are the same. Some can look really fake. I prefer real hardwood, but with our two dogs, it’s not worth the risk of getting it all scratched up right now.
We went with Lumber Liquidators (now LL Flooring) and have had them for about 5-6 years. I think part of the issue might have been the lack of underlay or moisture barrier.
Got it! I know that for basement installations, this type of flooring usually recommends an additional underlayment. Although I didn’t pay close attention since ours is not in the basement, I understand that it’s not suitable for direct installation on concrete.
When you’re installing LVP or laminate on a basement or concrete floor, it’s important to do a moisture test first. It’s a simple process – just tape a one-foot square piece of plastic to the floor, seal the edges, and check for condensation after about 24 hours. If there’s moisture buildup, a vapor barrier is necessary. Some laminate manufacturers even require this test for warranty purposes.
I feel like we were under the impression that we didn’t need a moisture barrier, but it turns out we definitely did!
Yep, for this type of flooring we’re installing there’s no need for a barrier on regular subfloors. However, it does recommend using a 6 mil material (can’t remember the exact name, something poly) for concrete floors.
Absolutely, using polyethylene sheeting. It’s great to see someone who actually pays attention to instructions, way to go!
Could you please tell me the brand and color of this flooring?
Coretec Cairo oak!
I have the same floor and mine also makes that noise a little.
Nice to find out! How do you feel about it otherwise? I’ve heard positive things about it
Yep, I have the same experience. I chose to install it in my bathroom, so it’s not walked on much, but I would definitely choose it again.
I suggest considering using underlayment. It may not be necessary with that material, but you’re starting to understand its importance.
Are the flooring edges being placed snug against the walls? Remember to leave a 1/4 inch gap for expansion and contraction.
Perhaps this is also why it feels springy.
Mentioned that this specific floor doesn’t really change size, but he does use spacers around the wall edges! 1/4″
They all require it, and there are reasons beyond just the type of material.
Oh yeah, this flooring doesn’t require it as stated. It’s suitable for four-season rooms and doesn’t need to acclimate, BUT other flooring types might, so they still suggest it if you’re mixing with other floors (which isn’t our case), but we still went for it! Used spacers along all walls.
You know, spacers really aren’t necessary. Just trim the floor 1/4 to 1/2 away from the wall to make space for shoe molding. Spacers might also play a part in this. As someone who lays floors for a living, I’ve learned that you can skip spacers if you maintain a 1/4-1/2 gap all around.
Thanks for the info, ! We’ll make sure to fill that gap and add shoe moulding 👍🏻
To be honest, those spacers aren’t the best at staying put anyway haha
Hey , that’s the reason I avoid using spacers since they don’t serve much of a purpose and tend to move around.
In areas where the subfloor is not level, such as where two sheets meet, you may notice a slight unevenness.