Is it acceptable to lay vinyl plank flooring on a flat surface with minor dips after hand planing high spots in particle board, despite preferring not to use leveling underlayment due to lack of experience in flooring?
Do you think I’ll be okay laying vinyl plank flooring? I’ve got a lot of experience with woodworking, but none with flooring. The floor is pretty flat, just a few spots with a slight dip of no more than 1/8 inch over 4 feet after I smoothed out some bumps with a hand plane. Is it alright that I knocked down some high spots in the particle board with the hand plane? And the floor tolerance should be good, right? I know I probably should have used a longer plane, but I didn’t want to risk damaging my expensive jointer plane. I feel like I’m aiming for perfection in a project that’s pretty tough to get perfect.
Just so you know, there’s 1/2 inch plywood on the studs and then 1/2 inch particle board on top with a vapor barrier in between. I do have leveling underlayment, but I’d rather not use it if I don’t have to.
Go for it! I install luxury vinyl planks regularly, and any imperfections are hardly noticeable. If there are noticeable depressions, you can fill them in, but less than 1/8 of an inch should be considered close to perfect on a plywood subfloor.
Rosales I noticed a small 1/8 inch dip that runs approximately 3.5 feet in one direction and 4.25 feet in the other on my LVP flooring which has a 5 mil thickness with foam backing and stone core. I can only slide two out of three quarters stacked underneath to keep it level.
Hey, here. As long as it doesn’t land on a seam, you should be all set. Chances are, you won’t even see it from the top.
A belt sander with 60 grit can really come in handy for this situation.
Yep, use felt paper to shim and blend low spots. If it’s a gluedown installation, you’ll need to lay underlayment.
You shouldn’t encounter any problems with 1/8” over 4 feet. Just ensure that you’re using a high-quality LVP.
How about adding shoe molding later?
Yup, it’s
Thumbs up for ! 👍👌✌️
I’ll probably end up cutting my own molding at some point. Woodworking is where I find joy.
If you ever lay down a plank and notice a gap or torn paper, just tear some paper to fill it. But if it’s as flat as you claim, the material should conform to most areas. What type of product are you using?
You have the option to include foam underlayment, which will provide additional insulation.
As long as your seams are smooth, you should be good to go right over them.
Make sure to use the underlayment and make sure it’s waterproof and taped. You don’t want any water touching that particle board because it expands a lot and will damage your floors.
Cover up the areas you sanded with paint.
You’re definitely leveled enough! 😄 Great work. When it comes to vinyl flooring, you don’t need a vapor barrier since it’s made of plastic material. The only thing to consider would be the particle board. However, it doesn’t seem to be at risk of moisture from the top. I would suggest leaving it open for airflow so that if it does get damp from below, it has a chance to dry out.
To prevent moisture from getting underneath, I made sure to install 1/2 inch plywood on the joists.
I’d be concerned about gaps between the particle board sheets. Without an underlayment, the vinyl could sink into those cracks over time and become visible. However, if you’re using a thick LVP with built-in foam underlayment, you should be good to go.
Make sure to use an underlayment and fill in any gaps with floor patch leveler. You want to prevent moisture from seeping in, as it can cause the planks to lift over time.
Putting down those planks can be a bit of a hassle. You’ll definitely need a rubber mallet to make sure they fit snugly together.
You’re all set, go ahead and send it.
Need to remove the trim first and then put it back on after the flooring is done. It would be great if it fits nicely under the door trim too. I also need to figure out how to secure the vinyl flooring around doorways and the fireplace.
Yes! To ensure that the baseboards in different rooms match in height, I usually install under the quarter round. When it comes to trimming around doors, it’s important to buzz the trim so that the flooring can slide underneath. Without a quarter round to cover it up, you need to go underneath the door frame. A good trick is to use a piece of scrap flooring as a height measure by placing it in front of the frame. Rest the buzzer on top of the scrap flooring and cut a thin piece of frame off the bottom along both sides of the door frame. This will make sure the tile slides in perfectly.
Is opting to go with the quarter round route instead of pulling up the baseboards.
It would be best if the underflooring is nice and smooth. I had to remove a wooden floor that was stuck with PL Premium adhesive. There were wood chips everywhere. I sanded it thoroughly with 40-grade sandpaper. Then, I had to prepare the floor before installing the planks. It turned out well. Your underflooring seems much better than mine. Using cushion under the planks will be very beneficial. It not only acts as a moisture barrier but also helps in leveling out some minor imperfections. Some planks already have cushioning attached, like mine. You got this.
Using 1/4 round is not the best choice. It often doesn’t look great, and it takes almost the same amount of time to remove, clean, and paint them, then lay down the floor, caulk, do paint touch-ups for a professional finish.
I enjoy working with wood and will be making my own moldings as it brings me happiness.
Lots of recommendations here. The best course of action is to refer to the flooring manufacturer specifications for installation. Adhere to all the instructions provided there. All other shortcuts and suggestions are just that.
Usually, 1/8 inch in 4 feet is fine. If you can’t feel it when walking on it, then it should work. I recommend choosing planks with rubber underlayment already attached for easier installation.
Quarter round seems inexpensive
Hey, it’s and I know my way around woodworking. Take a look at these oak cabinets I put together using lumber from the sawmill.
Hey, I’m and check out this crown I crafted from rough wood and stacked up.
Looks stunning.
Is super friendly.
Is there an underlayment already attached to the flooring you’re laying down? If there’s a gap, grab some underlayment for vinyl floors and place a strip or two in the low spots.
When assembling, use a speed square to avoid damaging it while tapping it into place. The key is to ensure that once tapped in, it rests flat on the floor without lifting on its own. If it doesn’t lay completely flat, it’s not properly seated and might come apart within a year. Before tapping the pieces together, make sure there’s no debris in the seams. I use a small paintbrush to clean them as I go. Best of luck!
The rigidity of the floor you’re installing plays a big role. For stiff flooring, aim for a flat surface to prevent a “slap” sensation when walking over low areas. If it’s flexible, you’re all set.
Thinking about using self-leveler for the low spots?
Most click vinyl planks measure 1/4 inch by 8 feet to prevent hollow spots in the floor. To ensure a level surface, use a longer level since the floor may separate. Relying on a 4-foot level could lead to false hope and ultimately result in a bouncy, hollow-sounding floor. Consider using cork to fill any gaps and sand down the edges. – Owner of 300 Flooring Installations
1. Remove the molding. It’s easy to replace with new molding after installing a new floor, and it will improve the overall look.
2. If you’re unsure, work on leveling the floor.
Hey , if I decide to remove the molding, I’ll do it when I’m ready to paint. It might take a while since I just finished painting. I plan to add some unique character to the quarter round. My baseboards are not just plain boards, so I’ll need to remove more than just the baseboards near the fireplaces. I actually crafted all the trim in the house when we first bought it.
Hey , I understand where you’re coming from, it’s not a big deal if you decide to go back and take care of it later.
You should probably check the variance in the product you plan to use. The quality of the product often affects how level the floor needs to be, especially in a specific square footage. For example, a thinner product may require less level variance to be acceptable.