Is delamination a concern with the 4×12 LVL beam on the DIY ridgebeam rafters framing, and if so, can it be repaired and how?
Asked by Gregory Fletcher 
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 9, 2024
Hey, I have a feeling this isn’t good news. Do you think the delamination is a problem and can it be repaired? I first saw it today while I was setting up the rafters. It seems to go down about 3-4 inches. The beam is a 4×12 LVL, spanning 20ft with a width of 11ft. Any advice would be appreciated. #diy #ridgebeam #rafters #framing
You could try using 1/4 inch timberlock or Simpson SDS screws, placing 3 every 16 inches, and it should hold up well. Personally, I would attach it with screws and right before finishing it, apply some floor adhesive in the gaps. I believe it will be very sturdy once covered.
This method works great too – just screw the wood pieces together
You might want to consider having a local inspector take a look. If they notice signs of deterioration, they may advise against using it or recommend adding extra support. Best of luck!
It appears to have been exposed to the elements. LVL that has weathered won’t pass inspection.
You could just throw a couple of 2x4s on the sides of the shed and secure them with 4-inch screws, haha.
Is quite the logical thinker.
Do you think this beam has been used before, or is it new?
I think Carl might be new, at least that’s what I thought when I placed the order.
My best course of action would be to request the vendor from whom I purchased it to provide a replacement, unless it was mishandled after being delivered
I went ahead and followed their guidance. It’s set up now. I’m not certain about taking it apart without encountering significant problems.
If that’s the situation, I’d consider filling the gaps with glue as suggested. I’d attach 2×12 on both sides and secure them with bolts. It might be a bit excessive. Is this part of the main structure?
Indeed, , that serves as a structural ridge beam. Its purpose is to bear the weight of the roof. It shouldn’t be mistaken for a ridge board.
If it’s a ridge, I’d use an epoxy mix to fill in the delamination, clamp it, and secure it with SDS screws. And if it’s going to be exposed for a long time, make sure to add some zip tape on top.
Thanks for the advice, . I’ll definitely give that a try. Any suggestions for the epoxy blend?
Simpson is equipped with a dual tube SET3G22N. You should grab a dual tube gun. It’s on the pricier side. You have the option to visit any major retail chains and create your own mixture.
‘s Sikaflex is a two-part mixture that comes in a tube. It cures quickly, so make sure you’re ready to screw and clamp the beam right away.
If you spread out three ceiling joists evenly along the building’s length, you can get away with only using a 2×6 for a ridge.
I’m not entirely convinced that’s accurate for a 20ft length 24oc with 12ft walls, I think I would require rafter ties on each rafter. However, the whole idea behind the cathedral ceiling is to create space for my ladder and wall-to-ceiling shelving. Adding rafter ties or joists would seriously disrupt that plan.
Man, they construct houses with a smaller ridge beam. Just curious, are you possibly a professor or some kind of engineer? Can’t figure out why else you would choose this approach.
I tried out the online calculator that the company recommended to me, entered the state code numbers. I also heard from a few people/contractors in the area about the local inspectors. I already had a discussion with the electrical inspector. My electrician and I had a conversation, we were courteous and we over-engineered the electrical as per his preference. Although he did express concerns about the fixtures causing issues for the sheet rockers, I chose to overlook that. Any undersized ridge would cause a problem. My original plan was more modest, but I want to avoid any potential issues. Maybe I’m thinking about future needs. That was my thought process. Since this is my first roof of this kind, it’s all a learning experience. I appreciate your comment and feedback 🙂
Are you in a snowy area? With just an 11-foot width and a relatively short span for a shed, I really think you can keep it as is. I don’t believe it’s exposed to significant force anyway. Your walls are connected, so they can’t split, meaning the ridge will primarily work under compression between the two sides of the roof.
Thank you for getting back to me. The state code specifies a ground snow load of 25psf, along with a Snow Load Importance factor of .8 due to minor occupancy. I wanted to ensure that the build is prepared for the future, considering climate change and other factors. When I used the calculator, this was the result that I felt good about (although I have a suspicion that the calculator may over-engineer things to promote products). I also wanted to avoid any potential complaints from inspectors.
From Canada… do inspectors check every shed in the USA?
What did you enter into the calculator? Because if it was a flat roof with a beam in the middle, I would agree with you… but for the project you’re working on, I think it might be a bit too much even with the splits! (I’m not an engineer!) If you check out the European wood construction group, you might find better advice!
In my opinion, the joists from the roof are pushing horizontally on the beam in the middle (imagine if the beam wasn’t there, the joists would rest on the joists from the other side and could potentially collapse) so there is no vertical load, all the weight is on the wall (which is being pushed vertically and horizontally), but the wall is supported by the planks connecting the two walls, handling the horizontal load. That’s just my perspective!
You’re right, , regulations vary a lot even within the same state. In my hometown, it was much more relaxed compared to here.
Wow, , it’s the land of the free! (at least when it comes to sheds…)
Hey , did you know that you need a permit to buy and install pavers or a pre-fab shed?
Hot glue, burnt rice, and sperm whale sperm – a strange combination but trust me, it works wonders. You can thank me later.
Consider getting custom iron support plates to clamp the beam at the middle of the roof joists using bolts, washers, and nuts. It’s possible to use shorter ones, maybe a foot in length.
I wouldn’t bother wasting time or effort on that. Definitely not worth adding any more weight to the ridge. It’s already super sturdy as it is
Yeah, that’s totally true.
No matter how long the structure is, it’s always narrow in width.
It wouldn’t be able to handle heavy snow without any extra support due to its angle.
Plus, typically beams like that one are supported by an iron beam or a pole underneath. The strength of the beam depends on the support below it and the foundation’s pressure rating.
‘t worry, I use LVL’s all the time. They soak up water like a sponge. If it’s going to be out in the open for a while, make sure to put flashing tape on top. ‘t bother trying to fill or glue it, that’s just pointless. 🥴
When building a shed, it would be wise to stick with the right 2x lumber to save money! The load on the ridge won’t justify using an LVL.
That’s not a good situation. It’s also lacking structural integrity. It might be worth investing in some engineering for it.
I might go with 2×6 for the ridge runs instead of 2×4, but I wouldn’t worry too much about the main beam delaminating
No worries, it’s going to be concealed anyway.