How should we lay the LVT plank flooring to create a seamless look without transition strips and should we use wedges for expansion?
We’re currently working on remodeling our second floor and putting in LVT plank flooring. I have a bunch of questions and would really appreciate any input!
So, we’re trying to figure out which direction to lay the planks. I’m thinking parallel to the stairs, but my husband prefers vertical because of the hallway. We were aiming for a seamless look with no transition strips, but now we’re wondering if that might actually look better. Any thoughts on that?
I’ve heard that you need a good mallet hammer and blocks to lock the planks together. I’ve also read about using wedges to create a small gap between the walls for the floor to “float” and adjust. Have any of you used wedges before? Are they necessary? Should we leave a gap at the walls or butt the planks right up to them?
Lastly, we went with 20 ml vinyl flooring, which is pretty thick with a rubber backing. Our floor is mostly level, but there are a few spots where the plywood is uneven, creating gaps in height. Should we make sure the floor is completely level before installing the planks? Do we need an underlayment pad to even things out, or will the thickness of the planks do
Opt for this tool over a mallet for assembling the blocks. It will make the installation process 100 times easier.
I would recommend going with your husband’s suggestion and choosing the hallway instead.
3. Ensure you use spacers all around. Floating floors are designed to have slight movement. If they are unable to move, they may buckle.
Is in complete agreement.
A soft dead blow by the way. I prefer using a jigsaw to cut the intricate pieces. This way, I can avoid constantly getting up to walk to the cutting station.
If you prefer not to use T-molds, your husband should lay the planks in a way that requires you to take the photo from the room you are entering. It may also involve coordinating with your husband for the areas behind you in the picture.
When installing the planks, it’s ideal to have them parallel to the hallway and to minimize transition strips at doorways. Avoid using small wedges, instead leave a slight gap at the wall for a better finish. Ensuring the floor is level is crucial to prevent the planks from separating over time. Properly preparing a level and even floor is essential.
For longer runs, there is a higher chance of seams splitting in the flooring. It’s best to run the planks lengthwise off the stair nosing, so that walking down the hallway resembles a boardwalk.
To make the narrow part of the hallway appear larger, try going perpendicular. Also, having seamless transitions between rooms is aesthetically pleasing 🙂 My husband was able to achieve this with laminate flooring last year, but Vinyl plank is even easier to work with as we recently installed it in the kitchen. It’s important to securely screw all subflooring and check for any noise when walking 🙂
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It really depends on whether you want the hallway to feel longer or wider.
As you walk up the stairs, make sure the planks on the second floor are parallel to the stairs.
To begin, make sure the floors are leveled properly. Regardless of their thickness, improper leveling can cause them to come up later on, eventually requiring a complete floor replacement. When deciding on the direction of the flooring, opt for the easiest install direction. Personally, I prefer having the flooring run horizontally against the wall where the bed will be placed. I may change the flooring direction to achieve this preference, as it’s a personal choice for me.
How can you tell if the floors are level, ?
Nug Get she mentioned that the floors were not even and wanted to know if she should be worried or if it would be fine because she opted for a thicker flooring material. The material in question is LVP, which could accommodate some irregularities on the ground floor with a proper adhesive installation (not ideal, but possible). However, since she is working on the second floor, LVP cannot handle such inconsistencies on an upper level regardless of the installation method; it will eventually start to lift.
Nug Get have a 6-8’ metal screed run across to help point out low spots and locate high ones
A good tip is to lay the planks perpendicular to the floor joists to minimize the chances of them popping up.
Enjoys discovering new things every day that just make sense. Cheers H.
So, when it comes to installing solid wood over a subfloor, make sure to follow the instructions in the box of your flooring. The manufacturer knows best, not just social media. It’s not a suggestion, but a way to ensure your warranty remains valid. Anything you pick up here won’t be of much use if you need to file a claim later on.
Recommends hardwood over plastic
Make sure to leave a 1/4″ gap around the entire perimeter when installing your flooring. You can use floor clips or make your own to secure it in place. Your floor should be level within 1/4″ over 4 feet for it to be okay, but double check with your manufacturer just to be sure. You may need to use some floor leveler with 20 ml. I don’t think you need a vapor barrier, but again, check with the manufacturer. Be cautious not to tap the tongue and groove too hard to avoid damage. Measure the length of your wall and make sure you don’t end up with a piece smaller than 12 inches, depending on the length of your planks. Hope this information helps! Good luck with your project! ☘️👍
Consider using an underlayment pad even if your subfloor is flat; it can help insulate and minimize floor piece crackling. I recently had mine done without it 🤯, and I’m thinking of hiring someone to redo it with the underlayment pad since my previous house had it and it made a big difference.
The cracking of a floor doesn’t typically occur because of underlayment. There could be many other reasons for it, but that’s not usually one of them.
Hey , just to clarify… I never mentioned my floor actually cracking. It just makes some crackling noises, and the underlayment helps to soften or reduce the sound of the lvt or lvp.
It really varies depending on the type of flooring. Some might have their warranty voided by using underlayment.
That’s very true. As others have mentioned, it’s crucial to carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions multiple times to ensure everything is done correctly.
In my experience, every LVP comes with underlayment attached to the planks. If yours did too and you’re hearing crackling noises, then there might be other underlying issues. It’s possible that the locking edges were not tight enough during installation.
Not every floor is compatible with padding. If it is, there should be a specific pad designed for that product. If your floor is cracking and it’s not related to the padding…
Reyes, when there is no cracking in the subfloor, LVT & LVP will not make crackling noises. If padding was used underneath, there should be no noise.
It likely has a built-in pad. Adding extra underlayment without manufacturer approval will void the warranty.
The boards are meant to be a bit creaky. The underlay is not meant to silence noise.
I would align myself with the stairs so that when you walk up, it’s the first thing you see. It might look strange otherwise.
Level out the subfloor before laying down the vinyl. Those pesky high spots will only cause you headaches later on. Fill in any gaps or holes in the subfloor now to avoid problems down the road. Take care of any squeaks by securing loose flooring pieces. Use the recommended underlayment from the flooring company. Skip the wedges and instead use something heavy like unopened boxes of vinyl planking to keep the flooring in place. Follow the instructions closely for best results. Remember to orient the planks along the long axis of the hallway to create the illusion of more space. And don’t forget about transition strips – they’re necessary. Good luck! 👍
2. Underlayment can sometimes void the warranty. I would try to level the floor as much as possible. It really depends on the severity. Ideally, you want to avoid any height differences between stairs. You can sand them down for a smoother finish or consider using self-leveler.
1. Head in the same direction as the stairs.
Use a planer to quickly even out height differences instead of relying solely on sanding.
Before installation, let the flooring acclimate to the temperature of the room for a couple of days to prevent expansion and contraction problems.
Install the flooring lengthwise down the hallway and consider purchasing or creating a stair round piece for the top stair.
When laying the flooring, leave a tiny gap at the edges that can be concealed with trim during finishing touches.
I remember once buying a house where the floorboards were all placed horizontally down the narrow hallway. It didn’t look good at all since there was no way to stagger them in such a tight space.
You can either use a sander to even out the areas where the boards meet or try an oscillating cutter to smooth out the ridges – you definitely don’t want any high spots like that. While the subfloor is visible, take the opportunity to add screws to any squeaky floorboards.
Make sure to read the instructions on the planks. If they come with underlay attached, you may not need to add more. Some planks simply click and lock without needing a mallet. Remember to leave a 1/4″ gap at the walls. If you have any high spots, consider sanding or planing them down.
When it comes to spacing from the walls, I like to use two paint stirring sticks against the wall, which gives me a 1/4″ gap that allows for expansion and contraction.
I always believed it was best to keep them parallel to the longest wall.
I recommend avoiding transition strips as they can give off an unprofessional appearance. Simply ensure that you undercut your door casings, and the result will be fantastic.
You have the flexibility to lay the flooring in either direction, but be mindful of doorways where you need to undercut the frames. Wedges are not kept on the floor; instead, they are utilized for measuring gaps.
Ensure that the underlayment is level; otherwise, you might encounter issues with sections popping up. In most cases, a pad will not fix an uneven floor.
Use a flap disc on the grinder for smoothing out the seams. The choice of orientation is completely up to you. If you notice a drop of more than 1/4 inch within 5 feet, apply primer and self-leveler to even it out. Maintain a 1/4 inch gap from the walls.
I installed LVP throughout my entire upstairs. One of the first things I did was to have the kids run, jump, and play on it to test its durability. To address squeaks, I ended up using a full box of screws. I also discovered noise-reducing underlay at Home Depot designed for LVP. Although it helped mask minor imperfections, I did encounter a slight issue in the bathroom where the flooring appeared slightly rounded, resembling a pipe. While this didn’t affect the functionality of the flooring, I wish I had spent more time addressing that particular spot. Hopefully, using a few more boxes of screws can help level out the height difference on the plywood subfloor. Overall, my floors have withstood over a decade of use and three teenage boys in three bedrooms, one bathroom, and a storage closet. It’s been a breeze to maintain with simple sweeping, vacuuming, and mopping.
For the stairs, I would run them parallel, ensure a continuous flow, leave a gap under the baseboard, use a wedge where necessary, and adjust any high points by either screwing or planing. Additionally, I would opt for cork underlay to provide an extra 5 millimeters of cushion. Best of luck!
100% a long way down the hallway.
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for your input. I found an app that shows how each direction would look. I’ll attach those images so you can see what I’m looking at. Remember to leave a 1/4 inch gap against the wall for floor expansion and contraction. You might need to trim a bit off the board at the bottom of door frames. The choice of tools is personal, whether it’s a kit or a tapping block. It seems like I’ll also need to level it somehow. I checked this morning, and there’s only a 1/8″ gap at those spots. Should it still be leveled even with just a 1/8″ gap? If so, I’ll have to shim under the lower OSB board, try adjusting the higher end, maybe sand or plane it, or use self-leveler. It appears that there’s no underlayment specifically for gaps, just for noise reduction and moisture. Also, make sure the planks are laid out square in any direction to avoid looking crooked down the hall at a 15-degree angle 😆
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Melinda, this is the method I use. Katie Martin, take note.
I have two reasons for that. First, it’s best to have the flooring go along the longest part of the room. Second, I prefer to lay them perpendicular to staircases for a clear transition between levels.
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Hardwood increases your home’s value, unlike LVP. Make sure floors are installed perpendicular to the floor joists.
Not the same anymore. Most people prefer the fake look that matches their outfits.
Hardwood, natural brick colors, fireplaces are not as appealing as before. You can coordinate LVP better with your color schemes than hardwood.
My wife suggested painting our brick house, almost kicked her out. But the house across the street got a makeover with LVP replacing hardwood, siding over the brick, and sold for 80k over the asking price. Maybe it’s just a NY thing, but every house on the market here seems to have LVP floors
LVP is like the trendy choice now
Not really concerned about direction these days
I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to flooring. I recently had LVP installed in my new home, but it’s running in the “wrong” direction and I can’t wait to tear it out.
Prefers that look, but he’s right that it lacks value. Luxury vinyl plank flooring is still relatively new in the industry, with less than 10 years under its belt. Failures are common with cheap plastic floors, and the locking mechanisms in most brands are not reliable.
😂😂 If possible, I recommend going with hardwood flooring. The trend of plastic flooring may not last, as there are increasing issues with the locking mechanism and many products are being discontinued. In my opinion, this is a big red flag. I have been installing flooring for over 20 years, and while plastic flooring may look good, it is an inferior product that is prone to problems.
Hey there! I’m all for hardwood upstairs, but here’s the thing – my main floor has LVP glued down over an above grade slab. Taking that all up and prepping the slab sounds like a lot of work. I wonder if there’s a way to glue down hardwood on top of the LVP. Maybe floating an engineered hardwood over it could be the best bet? What do you think, with your expertise?
For sure, starting fresh with base subfloor is key – and I agree, engineered HW is a solid choice, much stronger and more durable than softer woods.
Oh hey, have you heard about glue down engineered hardwood flooring?
That’s actually not quite accurate. These days, hardwood flooring doesn’t really stand the test of time. Personally, I prefer a product that doesn’t require refinishing every few years. If you’re thinking about hardwood, engineered hardwood is the better option.
Hardwood isn’t the best choice for homes with kids or pets. Hardwood flooring doesn’t necessarily increase the value of your home more than other types, especially on the West Coast.
I live in a neighborhood with some of the oldest homes around. They all have beautiful wood floors. It makes me wonder if people were more careful with their floors back in the day.
That’s accurate, many older houses have wooden floors. They often squeak and creak and are difficult to fix. However, having a wooden floor doesn’t necessarily make the house more valuable.
John White, what’s so amusing to you?
Oh no!! Do I really need to get rid of this LVP stuff? I was really hoping to avoid that.
I truly value your knowledge. If I decide to take out all the LVP to the subfloor, would it be feasible to glue down hardwood instead? This way, I can ensure that the upstairs and downstairs match.
Considering I have dogs, the idea of sanding/refinishing in the future is definitely a bonus.
Brian Reed, do you have something to contribute? We’re all ears.
Can you imagine if LVP had been around for centuries? Old houses wouldn’t have those annoying squeaky floors.
Why did they choose 20mm? We’re renovating our second floor and trying to figure out which mm is the most suitable.
The higher the better. Personally, I wouldn’t go below 20mm due to having a dog and kids, as wear layer thickness is crucial.
Just like Aprilyn mentioned…..the higher the mm, the better the quality for enduring scratches with our two goldens.
Oh no, we got 4mm for our second floor without knowing about different thickness options 😞 now we just hope it holds up for a decent amount of time
Don’t worry, this stuff is really sturdy. We used 7mm upstairs with our 100-pound American pitbulls who hate nail trimmings, and after 2 years, still no issues.
Why not try a 45° angle? 😝
Make sure the floor is perfectly level for this to work right. Think mirror lake level. Keep those locking grooves clean of any little particles. And be extra cautious with the edges of the LVP since it’s pretty brittle.
Mentioned that it’s not essential for the floor to be perfectly flat and level. Most have a tolerance of 3 1/16” within a 10-foot radius.
I’ve got plenty of tips to help you avoid the mistakes we made in our previous home! 😊 First: Remove the baseboards. Second: Make sure to leave a small gap at the walls so the floor can expand if needed (or else it might buckle) – approximately 1/4″ for the baseboards to cover. Third: Try to level the floor as best as possible. In our old house, we missed some spots and the flooring ended up snapping at those joints and sinking down, creating a sharp edge where the planks met. Fourth: I recommend using underlayment for cushioning and an extra layer of waterproofing. Hope these tips help and good luck!
‘t forget about the door jams – that’s the trickiest part! I matched the transitions to the flooring color so there wasn’t a big gap under the doors. Also, I changed the direction of the flooring for a more interesting look from room to hallway.
Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions carefully to avoid voiding the warranty. The LVP I used is meant to be installed without underlayment and can bridge height differences of 1/8″. Be sure to get the installation kit and a mallet with a nylon face – a rubber mallet won’t cut it. Keep your rows straight by using a taut string for guidance and ensure that joints are completely closed. Use a multitool to undercut door jambs.
Typically, you’ll notice if the plywood is uneven when you’re working on the house. Watching videos or using apps can help, but nothing compares to hands-on experience like those of us who have done it a few times.
When working with 3/4 hardwood flooring, remember to run the floor in the opposite direction of the floor joist. Leave gaps all around the perimeter for expansion and contraction. Floating floors allow you to lay them in any direction, but typically the longest run should be laid lengthwise. You can install it tightly against the walls. To address height issues, you can sand it down, though it can be very dusty. Alternatively, try securing it with 3-inch screws, ensuring they hit a floor joist. Self-leveling compound is another option. Also, make sure to cut your door jambs to allow the flooring to go underneath. Home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowes sell kits with all the necessary tools for a DIY project.
Get a vinyl plank kit that includes a mallet, wedges, block for seams, and a wall bar for clicking tight spaces together. ‘t forget to also grab a vinyl plank floor cutter. Avoid using a saw near the area and instead, sweep constantly. The floor cutter will save you time and allow for cutting near installation. Make sure to acclimate the flooring to the house temperature before installing, use wedges to maintain at least a 1/4 inch gap around walls, and utilize a multi-tool to cut jambs for flooring underneath. If it has a rubber bottom, that serves as your underlayment, so no need to add extra. Adding extra cushion underneath may cause seams to pop open. If there’s a significant dip in the floor, it should be filled or planned down if it’s a hump. If it’s not level over a long span, it’s perfectly fine without any leveler.
Most professionals use a big orbital sander to even out the seams on the OSB floor and then clean up with a vacuum.