How should I proceed with renovating this room that was an extension of the house, including insulation, mold removal, and electrical work, while on a budget?
Asked by Rusana Prodan 
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 21, 2024
Hey everyone! I just wanted to share some updates on the room we are working on. This space was actually an extension added by the previous owner, not part of the original house. It’s off the garage, with a door leading into it. We recently replaced the insulation with a fire and moisture resistant type and added some more outlets. We did run into a bit of mold, but caught it early. Now we’re trying to figure out how to hide the dryer vent line and deal with the aquifer pipes. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Also, I’m a bit unsure about the shiplap paneling my son-in-law suggested for the walls. Is this a good choice? Can it be painted? Any advice or thoughts would be awesome. Thanks in advance!
I’d consider replacing that poorly done foam insulation with fiberglass batts. Then I’d go ahead and sheetrock the entire area. The thin paneling attached to the studs can get really cold. Sheetrock will help to insulate and provide some fire resistance. Make sure to install a combination smoke and carbon monoxide detector in the new room, especially if it’s a bedroom next to a garage. In terms of building codes, it’s a big No unless you add extensive fireproofing measures like a fire door and an additional escape route to the outside.
Foamboard insulation is fine, but the current situation is quite messy.
I did notice a window in it and I agree. I already purchased a combination fire alarm. I don’t use the garage for parking, but it does make me a bit concerned. The previous owner must have started this project, so this is how it was when I bought the house. Is there a better insulation option to go behind the mold/mildew backed drywall?
Yes, that sounds like a better option.
Are you really set on using this paneling? And are you not getting any help with it? I remember Brien mentioning an egress window… Does the bedroom not have one? And what about the smoke detector? If you decide to add insulation, I suggest using rockwool batts for easier installation and a higher R-value compared to fiberglass (which I’m not too fond of anymore). Rockwool may cost a bit more, but it’s definitely worth the extra expense.
Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the materials you’re buying or have already bought. The instructions should be included somewhere in the packaging. Despite my gender, I always make sure to read the directions, as most products, including drywall, come with them. By the way, most people would opt for drywall unless they are familiar with the alternative product (hence my initial comment).
Yeah, I couldn’t follow his instructions as he was suggesting. He basically said to hire someone for drywall because he lacked experience in that area. However, I have some friends who are knowledgeable in drywall and they offered to come and assist us. So, I decided to go with lightweight drywall with mildew and mold backing. I just want to ensure that it’s done correctly.
Before you do anything, ensure that the space can be converted into a bedroom according to the building code.
Hey, it looks like there might be a window there since you can see sunshine on the left wall. It could work as a bedroom, but keep in mind it can’t be advertised as such without an egress window. I’ve known people who slept under stairs in basements.
Pointed out that being near or above a garage can sometimes pose issues related to CO2 concerns.
Mentioned that this is located in a garage.
Mentioned that it appears to be a garage extension, noting the similar drop at the doorway typically found in a garage, carport, or breezeway. It seems like it may have functioned as a breezeway in the past. I do wish people would provide clearer explanations when sharing. Personally, I always type out my thoughts in a Word document before copying and pasting.
It does have a window. So if I install drywall, flooring, ceiling, etc., would it technically be considered a bedroom? We were thinking of using the window for an AC unit that also functions as a heater. Additionally, there is a door for two exits (I believe you need two exits, one can be a window and the other a door?)
Not about safety, but in my area, for a room to be considered a bedroom, it must also have a closet or wardrobe. If it doesn’t have one, but meets all other requirements, you can include the square footage in the total, but not label it as a bedroom in the specifications
In my neighborhood, if the window is big enough for a firefighter with his gear to fit through, they consider it a proper window. I think the firefighter would have to break the glass to get in. Check out this site for window egress size: https://modernize.com/homeowner-resources/windows/egress-window-size
Victoria Jones
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Codes specify that a clear window opening of at least 5 square feet is needed, during regular use, not after breaking the sash’s out.
The extension off the garage was built according to the permit that was filed by the previous owner. This was the condition in which I acquired the house.
The previous owner had actually filed an extension for the house, which led to the creation of a side room labeled as a “workshop.” It is connected to the garage, but it was a legitimate extension that was approved through a permit.
Interested in shiplap? Great! Make sure to insulate the exterior walls using fiberglass batts and seal the seams with caulk.
How about paneling that resembles shiplap?
Yeah as I was checking it out, I realized that I didn’t really want to use it. I ended up going with mildew/mold resistant lightweight drywall instead. Luckily, my friends who are experienced with drywall offered to help me out. I prefer to do something that’s safe and long-lasting, without causing any future issues.
Following Brien’s advice, it might be a good idea to remove the foam board (which seems messy). Opt for faced insulation with the facing acting as a moisture barrier. Then apply a line of construction adhesive along the studs and install the shiplap. The great thing about shiplap is that there’s no need for taping, mudding, sanding, or priming before painting. Since it’s already primed, simply sand lightly and paint.
Just to clarify, it’s not actual shiplap, it’s paneling designed to look like shiplap.
Oh, got it. I didn’t realize that. The process for installing paneling would be the same. I wouldn’t forget the construction adhesive step.
Hey, we were thinking of doing drywall but do you think it’s a good idea to remove the insulation first and replace it with something else before putting up the drywall? I guess that’s why my son-in-law preferred that option – he’s familiar with it and it’s the quicker and easier choice. Although they were considering it as a temporary fix, using shiplap panels is more expensive than regular drywall, which is more commonly used and safer, I suppose. I’m not sure. But I’ve got friends who know about drywall helping me out, so that’s the plan.
That mix of insulation won’t insulate as effectively as its rating suggests. There are too many gaps. Rockwool batts (faced) covering the wood entirely will be more beneficial in the long term.
Do you have a favorite brand or a picture of the best one to use?
I recently installed shiplap in our bedroom on one wall, but we picked out the pieces individually. I did think about the panels you suggested and they seem okay. However, you already have one wall that resembles exterior siding, which is like thicker shiplap. Do you really want different styles on the other walls? Not necessarily good or bad, just something to think about.
1. Consider adding a layer of drywall behind the ship lap and on all walls to meet fire code requirements.
2. Those unfinished walls appear to have asbestos panels – it’s worth checking them out.
3. Double-check that there is a smoke alarm and a CO2 detector in the room.
It appears to be asbestos.
Any tips on identifying asbestos panels? Safety first – don’t forget smoke and carbon monoxide alarms!
You can find an asbestos test kit on Amazon. Asbestos was frequently used in the 1970s and before. Brittle, fibrous wall board, flooring, ceiling tiles, or fluffy insulation should raise concerns.
Is a fan of foam insulation
I can’t believe those are still around, shaking my head. I’m planning on tearing out all that insulation and finding a good replacement. Got any suggestions on what type would work well?
Isn’t it strange that the previous owner got a permit for this extension in 2019, but never finished the job? That’s how it was when I bought the house, so I think I’ll just play it safe and replace all that insulation. Do you have any recommendations on what type would be best?
You know, it might not be asbestos. But that picture does seem suspicious to me.
That paneling isn’t meant to be installed on bare studs; it’s intended for decorative purposes over a solid wall like drywall.
That’s what I initially thought, but there seems to be a lot of information online about completing projects without using drywall. Despite this, I’ve decided to proceed with drywall installation. Thank you.
You’ll definitely want to consider insulation and backing. Shiplap is becoming less popular, so I’d be cautious since it can be expensive.
Make sure to change out the insulation on the outside walls and put up 3/8 drywall behind the paneling. You don’t have to worry about taping and floating the joints, it’s just there for additional support. The paneling is too flimsy to be mounted directly onto the studs.
Consider hiring someone to do the drywall work for you.
We finally made the decision to get drywall, and I have some friends who have experience with it helping me out. We’re trying to figure out the best way to do everything quickly and safely.
This setup is a safety hazard! It’s important to reach out to your local codes department for permits and guidance, as some of the information shared here is incorrect and dangerous. It’s clear that you (and your relatives) may not be familiar with these matters, so please consult local codes for expert advice.
Can you explain what specific aspects of this project you believe could be considered a ‘death trap’?
Well after doing some research and seeking advice, we decided to go ahead with the drywall. I looked up codes and found someone familiar with drywall to assist me. Thank you for the advice; that’s why I came here to learn more. Unfortunately, this all happened quickly because I took in my 19-year-old niece from a much worse situation. They were living with black mold, roaches, open holes in the flooring, and much worse walls than the ones we have. I hesitated because I didn’t want to tackle this project without hiring professionals, but money was tight and it was needed immediately. At first, I didn’t want a permanent solution and definitely didn’t want to leave them in the condition it was in. The previous owners had started the project with the intention of using drywall, so I didn’t know where to begin. My 23-year-old son-in-law had done something similar in a mobile home with his PA before, so I was worried about using shiplap. However, there is a lot of information on how to use shiplap as a wall instead of drywall. After learning all that I have, we decided to go with mold and mildew-resistant drywall and have people who are experienced in putting up drywall assist us. It’s actually cheaper and safer, from what I understand. So if you have any advice on how to do this without creating a hazardous situation, I’m all ears.
Oops, sorry for the mistaken tag Brian!
Alright, let’s get started. First things first, a bedroom connected to a garage should have a fire rating between them. I’m not sure why you’re using mildew-resistant drywall, that’s typically for damp areas. Fix any water or mildew problems first. The current insulation can produce toxic smoke when burning and is not safe for living spaces. It looks like there might be no window in the bedroom, which is needed. The entrance from the garage is not up to code. There are many reasons why this setup is not advisable. Make sure to contact the local codes department before proceeding. Just because someone knows about drywall doesn’t mean they know about fire safety codes.
Check out my response to Kimberly
Oh, and let’s not forget that the pictures don’t even display any windows.
Hey, using mold resistant drywall isn’t really a danger. It’s hard to say if there are any mold or moisture problems there. To me, it looks more like a storage room as she mentioned. I can see a window in that room, light is shining through it onto the wall. True, the insulation might create black smoke if burned, but if there’s a fire, that’s just one of the issues. While the room does need better insulation and it’s not ideal, I wouldn’t go as far as calling it a “death trap”. It will require a good amount of money to fix it properly, but it’s possible.
Hey, make sure to pay attention! I just wanted to point out that…haha… “Also, I noticed the lack of a window in the bedroom, but actually, it turns out there is one…just take a look at the reflection on the wall. Although, it seems a bit high up to be used as an emergency exit.”
I mentioned that using MRD wasn’t safe. I also spotted the window reflection issue – it’s not up to code and wouldn’t be safe in a fire. You can call it what you want, but I’ve seen tragedies in my years of fire service due to things like this. If you still want to build the room off the garage (not up to code) and take your chances, go ahead. Just be careful and maybe avoid using extension cords in there. I’m just pointing out the safety risks.
I was told by others that it’s good to remove the green backing that is likely mildew or mold from the house where she used to live.
Mentioned that moisture or water leaks are not present, so there’s no need for special drywall designed for those conditions.
This area was initially meant to be a workshop extension, but now considering turning it into a bedroom. I’ve done some research and concluded that drywall would be the best choice. Originally, we were thinking of a temporary solution, but now I want to use the right materials to finish what the previous owner started. If I decide to continue, it might become a temporary bedroom after checking the local building codes. My niece needed a place to stay temporarily, which is why we considered this option.
Was asking about the insulation in the house since the prior owner used a specific type, wondering what would be a good replacement.
It’s unlikely that the previous owner intended for it to be used as a sleeping area. If they did, it wasn’t a good idea. The window you posted is also not large enough for escape or rescue. Think about what is typically stored in garages like cars, gasoline, chemicals, etc. Would you store these things right outside your bedroom in the hallway?
Pink insulation designed for your wall thickness is the most cost-effective option. There are more expensive options available but they can be quite pricey. Green board is always a good choice, especially considering the small cost difference if your budget allows for it. It’s wonderful that you’re helping to rehome your family, make sure to pick up smoke alarms on your next trip to the hardware store and consider getting a 110 alarm system if possible, along with the other mechanical components I mentioned in previous posts.
I’m not saying you’re incorrect? I’m happy you’re bringing this up because it’s important to know. I’m not sure how the previous owner managed to get a permit for building it and what his intentions were. It’s good to at least complete it, even if I end up using it as a storage area or a workshop as it was intended to be. It’s better to have it finished rather than half-done and useless. Even though it can’t be used as a bedroom now, I appreciate the information so I can find a suitable use for it, maybe as an office. Thank you for sharing, this is how we learn by asking questions and sharing our ideas. I posted some small sections of the room but I have many photos from different angles, including the window. There’s no need for rude comments, DIY forums are meant for advice and information. I’ll be making some calls to check on codes and permits and find a different solution for sleeping arrangements.
I totally get where you’re coming from. I’m just looking out for everyone’s safety and trying to prevent any tragic accidents like fires or carbon monoxide poisoning. It’s important to remember that window sizes are not just for escaping, but also for firefighters to rescue people. The fire rating between a living space and a garage is crucial for buying time to escape, but having another way out, like an escape window, is essential. I understand your situation with your niece, but we need to prioritize her safety and prevent any potential risks. When it comes to renovations, it’s important to consult with someone who knows the codes and regulations to ensure everything is up to standard. I don’t mean to sound harsh, I just want to emphasize the importance of following safety guidelines. I’ve been in the fire service for over 30 years and have seen some tough situations, so I’m speaking from experience and trying to steer you in the right direction to keep everyone safe.
Consider using normal fiberglass insulation and potentially rockwool fire rated insulation on the garage side. It’s important to ensure that the garage wall, ceiling, and at least 4 feet of the walls on either side of the bedroom are fire rated. You might want to think about converting the garage into habitable space to meet the necessary requirements for a bedroom.
It’s pretty easy to get a permit to expand a garage, but adding a bedroom to a garage can be more challenging.
I totally understand, but if I had to choose between sleeping outside or where she was living and having some kind of shelter, I’d definitely opt for this if it were a finished area. I don’t store gasoline or my car in the garage, but my kitchen is connected to the garage on the other side of the door, and that’s where my laundry area with the washer and dryer is located. So, I’m often in the garage doing laundry, etc. I have neighbors who use their garage as a game room, to each their own I suppose. Personally, I didn’t feel comfortable with her sleeping in my garage, and I expressed that. She told me to leave it as it is because anything was better than where she was living. I just wanted to provide a temporary, more comfortable, and safer place for her to stay, better than sleeping on my porch or in the woods or on the streets
Wow, some people really need to ease up on the HGTV.
Hey Drew, I don’t watch that show either. The reason I’m looking to do something is that my 19-year-old niece was in an abusive situation living in a mobile home full of black mold, roaches, and who knows what else. When she asked to stay in my garage, I couldn’t allow it. The house was already being renovated when I bought it, intended for a workshop. They had started the insulation and plywood, even got permits. My original plan was to convert it into an in-law area or office/bedroom, but my husband passed away shortly after buying the house, and money is tight. My 23-year-old son-in-law offered to do a quick shiplap job, but I decided against it. I’m going with mold-resistant drywall now, and friends with drywall experience are helping out. Just need to figure out the specific materials needed like insulation, vapor barrier, etc. Definitely not trying to copy any shows!
Hey Kimberly, just to clarify, HGTV is a channel, not a show. The point is, there are some major renovations that need to be done in that space before anyone moves in. It’s more work than it seems. I wouldn’t recommend your son-in-law if he’s suggesting just shiplapping over the studs.
Hey Drew, I already scrapped that plan, but I’m just curious about what it would take to do it right. Some of my friends who are professionals in the trade will be coming to take a look, but I’m wondering about other renovations needed.
Oh, and fun fact – I had never even heard of shiplap until we came across it at the store. I was completely clueless when someone suggested it as an alternative to drywall. In the end, I decided to stick with drywall for the ceilings and walls. We’re planning to redo the flooring, but what else should we consider?
Hey, just a heads up, this is a DIY group post!
I remember when I tackled mud and taped drywall without any prior experience, way before YouTube became popular. Surprisingly, it turned out well! Just take your time, follow the steps, and I assure you, you’ll achieve a great result. The folks at Home Depot can guide you on the materials you might require. And kudos to you for opening your home to your niece, you truly have a kind heart.
When you come to a DIY group for advice and instead of help, you get belittled because of lack of knowledge in the field, it can be disheartening. Being kind and respectful to others doesn’t cost anything. Your comment was unnecessary and not helpful.
There are some things that should be handled professionally and safely. I stand by what I said.
Drew, please just say that! Remember, this is a DIY page. If you don’t have anything helpful to offer, just keep scrolling. No need to add your tiny two cents.
Drywall costs half as much
Yeah, I noticed that too. I was just worried if it would be too hard to do by ourselves. But I have a friend who’s going to help, so hopefully it’s manageable.
It’s really not that hard. Just get the fiberglass or mesh drywall tape for the seams, joint compound, and drywall screws
I was watching those videos and it seems like fixing a patch on the wall, just on a bigger scale, right? lol
Exactly! It’s the same concept!
True, but it can be expensive to hire someone to tape and finish it.
Here’s the plan: Start with electrical and mechanical work, insulate, add a layer of plastic, hang the drywall, mud and tape it, paint, do the trim, lay down the flooring, and then you can finally enjoy the finished result!
About the electrical – were there already outlets and light fixtures installed? What about mechanical needs? What is the best insulation to use behind drywall? Do you need plastic behind the drywall? Drywall and tape installation – hopefully, the person helping you knows what they’re doing. Flooring comes last. Any advice is appreciated! I’ve chosen mildew/mold-resistant lightweight drywall.
Do you need outlets in the bedroom? Check to ensure it’s adequate and properly connected in the panel. For mechanical needs, are there any special requirements for wall mounts, chair rail design, or windows? Is there proper heating and cooling, insulation, and a plastic barrier for drafts and bugs?
Ty all very helpful I appreciate it
You really should’ve listened to your gut, Mom. Drywall would’ve been a more cost-effective and superior option. If you’re sticking with that insulation mess, then adding more foam to complete it would be a good idea. Just remember not to add any extra vapor barrier (you don’t want to create a “mold sandwich”) before putting up your drywall. And remember, all the wall insulation won’t make a difference unless you finish the ceiling first.
Hey ! So, I ended up returning the shippap and went with mold-resistant lightweight drywall instead. Now I’m thinking about ditching the insulation that’s already there and getting a different kind. What do you think about skipping the vapor barrier under the drywall? What else would I need to make this project worth it? I had to move my 19-year-old niece into the garage because she was living in a moldy, roach-infested mobile home with no walls and holes in the floor. It was a bad situation. Originally, I just needed to get something done quickly to make the garage livable for her. My son-in-law put up a temporary wall and laid down flooring, but I’ve always wanted to finish it properly and get the right permits to make it a legal living space. I’m considering drywall for the ceiling too. After doing some research, I decided to go with drywall and do it right the first time instead of wasting
If you’re willing, go ahead and take out those scrap insulation pieces and put in batt insulation with a paperfaced vapor barrier attached. You can also use rock if you’d rather. Just remember, you don’t want to have two layers of vapor barrier, as it can lead to mold issues. Styrofoam type insulations already have their own vapor barrier, so you shouldn’t add another if you’re keeping the foam.
Thank you for all this helpful information! Some people can be rude, but I am learning a lot and I’m glad I asked. Dealing with the loss of my husband and the stress of figuring out various projects that need to be completed, in addition to now taking in my niece, is quite overwhelming. However, I suppose it is what it is. Truly appreciate your advice.
I’m not sure about the cost of a sheet of drywall, but all things considered, if you’re attaching it to properly placed studs, wouldn’t using a pre-made panel be faster, easier, and potentially more cost-effective in the long run? This way, you wouldn’t have to hire someone to tape, mud, sand, and paint the drywall.
Honestly, I’m pretty new to DIY but I noticed that a ship lap panel is 4 by 8, just like a drywall panel, and drywall was actually half the price. After watching some videos, mudding and taping seems quite manageable. I also have a friend with experience who, along with her husband, offered to help me since the shiplap, or should I say the faux shiplap, was double the price and seemed prone to issues. So, I’m hoping the mildew and mold-resistant drywall I chose won’t be too difficult to work with and will be a safer and more cost-effective option.
I suggest removing the foam and replacing it with faced fiberglass (make sure the paper side faces the room as a breathable vapor barrier). Then you can simply put up paneling nailed to the studs and glue at the seams. This way, you can avoid the time-consuming taping and mudding that drywall requires. Since you mentioned not having much time, I recommend starting with the ceiling. While drywall would look nicer on the ceiling, it also requires time to finish. For the ceiling, use ring shank nails (about 16 per 4×8 sheet) and ‘PL Premium’ glue, which can be found in the paint department at Home Depot. Use a caulking gun to apply the glue, as a little goes a long way.
Thanks for the helpful advice. After doing some research and considering different opinions, I’ve opted for mold-resistant drywall. I’m still debating whether to invest in better insulation and a vapor/moisture barrier. The installation process doesn’t seem too difficult based on the instructional videos, but I have a friend who is more experienced with drywall and is willing to assist. It also appears to be a more cost-effective alternative to buying numerous shiplap panels and is safer than the other method. I’ve heard that drywall can be fragile and prone to crumbling/breaking during handling. Originally, we were planning to use shiplap as a temporary solution due to time and budget constraints when taking in my niece, but I don’t want to spend a significant amount of money on a temporary fix only to redo it later on before selling the property.
Drywall costs approximately $17 per sheet and mud is around $25.26 per bucket. You’ll need two large 5-gallon pails.
If you’re concerned about adding a vapor barrier, you can get 3mil plastic sheeting for a good price at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I recently purchased a roll of 10′ x 25′ for just $10, and they have larger rolls available too. Simply staple it to the studs over the insulation and beneath the drywall. While it’s not mandatory, it can provide some peace of mind. I opted for this solution after having to remove drywall from an exterior wall. Some parts were glued to the insulation and I accidentally tore the paper vapor barrier on the insulation. Instead of replacing all the insulation, I added another vapor barrier layer.
I would consider starting from scratch as many have recommended, removing the existing insulation and doing the job properly. I understand you’re on a tight schedule, but paneling is more expensive than drywall. You could consider bringing in someone to assist with the cost difference, perhaps a handyman to work alongside you.
I think judging from the OP, priorities might not be aligned with doing things correctly. However, safety should always come first to avoid any fire hazards or CO2 issues. I would definitely avoid disturbing that asbestos.
I chose to listen to recommendations first and foremost. I have no experience with drywall, so I was following advice from someone who claimed to know shiplap. However, they are only 23 and may not have realized how simple drywall actually is. I’ve found a friend who is skilled in drywall to assist me. My main goal was to complete the project nicely and affordably. While shiplap is easier than drywall, I did some research and decided that it’s not the right choice for the main wall.
I went with shiplap paneling over drywall to avoid creating extra dust. There’s no issue with that. Drywall should still be there for fire safety.
The existing insulation seems inconsistent. It’s not very effective. You may want to consult with your local building official to ensure that the walls and ceilings of living spaces meet the requirement of 5/8 fire-rated drywall, even if paneling is used on top.
Thanks Jerry! I’ve decided to go with fixing the mildew/mold on the drywall and taping. Fortunately, I have a friend whose husband does drywall insulation, so he’s going to come show me and help out. I definitely want to replace this insulation. The previous owner began this project and put it up, but I want to find something better. I was told that you don’t need more insulation behind the drywall, but I want to make sure it’s done properly.
The fake shiplap I used in my entry living room for a board and batten style over drywall was a disaster – it ended up warping.
Ty we decided to go with drywall
Who’s covering the cost? If you’re the one paying and want drywall installed, just let me know!
Was originally concerned about his lack of experience in DIY and the urgency of the project, but ultimately decided that drywall installation would be more cost-effective and secure.
Believes that investing in quality materials and skilled labor for mud and sanding is crucial.
I ultimately settled on drywall, but I’m meticulously reviewing every aspect to ensure I do it correctly. I might not end up using it as a bedroom, considering the advice I received about potential restrictions. I need to come up with a different plan for my niece. However, completing this room instead of leaving it half-finished like the previous owner did would be satisfying. Maybe I’ll have a nice little office space as well.
Yes, that sounds like a good decision.
Well I mentioned earlier how some people may make you feel foolish for exploring different options, but that’s exactly why I’m here – to educate myself and explore all possibilities. I wasn’t satisfied with the initial plan my son-in-law proposed. Taking care of my niece has added a layer of complexity to the situation. If it were up to her, she would be staying in my garage because her previous living situation was quite challenging! So, I thought, why not improve this space by adding flooring and walls that were supposed to be installed anyway? It’s a much better alternative than her being on the streets or in her previous conditions. It was never meant to be a long-term bedroom solution. I’m grateful that I sought advice and information here; otherwise, I would have been unaware.
The YouTube drywall tutorial by Shorty is incredibly helpful. She uses special tools, but the techniques she demonstrates are applicable even with regular taping and mudding. If you’re new to mudding, avoid using hot mud.
Thanks for all your advice. The situation is quite unique. I’ve been looking into garage to bedroom conversions, but technically, this was an extension from the garage turned into a workshop/extra space. It’s difficult to explain because it’s not exactly a garage or a typical home extension. I’m currently searching for the permit they obtained when they built the extension. There’s a window, but it needs to be lowered to under 44 inches from the floor and meet specific measurements for emergency exit requirements. Despite being along an exterior wall, having a window, and meeting most bedroom criteria, there are some issues like the door not leading outside. I have an electrician friend who can install two additional outlets since there’s only one at the moment. There are two light fixtures already in place. Once I address the insulation, drywall, and other code requirements for fireproofing, it should be good to go. Initially, this project seemed straightforward as the room already had a window and appeared to need just wall, ceiling, and flooring finishing. However, it has turned out to be quite enlightening. It’s challenging without my husband, who was knowledgeable about these tasks.
Never feel like an idiot for considering options! It’s all part of learning. Even if you feel silly in the process, it’s a valuable experience. Ignore any negative thoughts and embrace the learning journey. ‘t let anyone make you feel foolish for exploring different options. It’s actually the best way to solve problems. I learned this in architecture school and apply it daily. Whenever I skip this step, I often regret it.
Install drywall for improved fire resistance and air sealing, over the insulation.
I’ve noticed mildew/mold behind my drywall, should I consider improving the insulation first? I’m still learning about all of this
Make sure to prioritize insulation and air sealing. https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements
https://buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/basement-insulation
Thank you
Avoid using glue on shiplap, especially if it’s on an external wall that needs to expand and contract. Shiplap is designed to have gaps, and I don’t think it’s the best choice for your needs. I recommend returning the shiplap, properly insulating the area, then installing drywall, which won’t be affected by weather changes and will provide a better-looking finish. Consider hiring a professional drywaller to save time and ensure a high-quality outcome, especially if you’re not experienced in mudding, sanding, and texturing walls.
Just a heads up, this product cannot be used on its own. You can insulate and then incorporate this if you’d like: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-Plywood-Siding-Panel-T1-11-8-IN-OC-Nominal-19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-563-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-113699/100000016
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First thing to do is take out the foam board insulation and replace it with rolled insulation that already has a vapor barrier. I’d avoid the fiberglass type unless you have the right safety gear. Next, go with drywall. It’s not as simple as shiplap but it’s versatile and can be customized to your liking. Do you have heating and cooling set up in that space? If not, how do you plan to regulate the temperature? Also, if there’s existing electrical wiring, is it up to code and able to handle additional appliances like a space heater or air conditioning unit? Is the garage door still in place or has it been sealed off? If it’s still there, how do you prevent water from seeping in? Are you considering installing a raised floor? These are all important factors to think about.
Hey there! I work in drywall, so I totally get why you might be hesitant to tackle that without much experience. I saw you decided to go with drywall, which I think is a good choice. Just wanted to suggest maybe a hybrid option from your choices…
Thank you, this is all really useful. I’m aware of a few options, but having one more would be even better. Honestly, if I had the funds, I would just hire a professional because this is quite stressful. My niece doesn’t have a secure place to stay, and there isn’t enough space. Also, I was hoping to complete what the previous owner mentioned. This whole situation has really opened my eyes.
I’ve had a few years in the construction industry and I’m constantly learning new things. It can be a bit overwhelming at times!
When looking to save costs, one of the easiest ways is through demolition and clean up. For your project, consider removing the current insulation and all nails/screws from the studs. This will make it easier for whoever is putting up the drywall.
Purchasing materials yourself can also help, as contractors often add a 10% markup when supplying materials. I know you mentioned that you and your family are working on this together, but just a heads up for any subcontracting you may do.
Handymen are great and more affordable than specialized tradespeople. Make sure to vet them thoroughly, and it’s even better if they come recommended by a friend for the specific task at hand. For example, while I’m not a licensed electrician, I was trained by one and can handle tasks like moving outlets, installing light fixtures, and running lines. I have the skills and experience, but I don’t charge as much due to not being licensed.
I completely understand the pressure and budget constraints you’re facing. One big tip I have is that it’s always more costly to go back later to add or fix things, so invest the time and money now to do it right the first time.
You can always cover floors with rugs and remember that paint is just for appearance. If you focus on enclosing the walls and ceiling for now, you’ll have a manageable space.
Best of luck! And kudos to you for providing a safe haven for your niece to escape to. Aunts like you are truly special ❤️
Ray Robin
Maybe you prefer this way or is there a specific brand you have in mind?
Negative.
Consider using 5/8 drywall for fireproofing purposes.
Thanks for the information! Are there any other items I should consider for fireproofing, like a specific type of insulation? I’ll give the permit office and inspections a call tomorrow to figure out what else I need to do and explore my options.
Congratulations Kimberly! I like to call your approach “Looking for apples under an apple tree”. By seeking advice from your local office first, you’ll definitely win them over. They are the ultimate local authority on the matter. Here on FB, we get opinions from all sorts of locations with different building conventions. While those opinions may be valid for their areas, they might not align with your local conventions. Your local office will give you specific recommendations. Best of luck and best wishes!
I agree, it’s always helpful to hear different perspectives. I’ll make sure to check the specific rules and laws in my area.
Too pricey, yes for plastic moisture barrier. Check out paneling to see if there’s a stud where you need to nail, that’s all you need. Insert vertical boards between studs for nailing support.
If you’re into other DIY projects, I suggest joining a Women’s DIY group! They’re just as knowledgeable but way more supportive. It seems like you already found the answers you needed, so go ahead and tackle those projects! You’ve got this!
If you obtain a permit, make sure to have it inspected so they can advise you on what is allowed and not allowed, as well as provide suggestions on how to proceed.