How should I handle the ground wire connected to my galvanized pipe when switching to PEX piping under my house?
Asked by Sandra Henderson 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 3, 2024
I’m about to switch out the galvanized pipe under my house for PEX piping. I noticed there’s a wire connected to the galvanized pipe that looks like it could be a ground. What should I do with this wire?
Use liquid tape
If you swap out all the metal pipes for PEX, that connection for the cold water will no longer be needed.
Hower Simply remove one part and you’ll lose the connection.
Hower might serve as a ground for a dryer with an old-fashioned three-wire cord.
Take another look at what I wrote.
That would be pretty unusual and honestly not right. If that were true it’s pretty easy to figure out. It’s almost certain that this is a ground wire connection from a panel.
Hower bull.
My house has a wire running from a metal rod junction to the water input, providing ground to the dryer with a 240-volt, 120 motor. The cord from the receptacle only has 120 one way, and the other way for 240 and a neutral (not a separate ground wire).
Can you provide more details?
Hey there, you might not fully understand what you’re seeing. If that’s really how it’s being done, then it’s a code violation and totally not okay.
Hey , I know exactly what I’m looking at – I forgot to connect a green wire from the cold faucet to the dryer.
First things first, it’s important to know. And if things are done that way, let me reiterate that it’s not being done correctly and it violates the code.
I really don’t think you have a clear understanding of what you’re saying.
Hey ! Just a heads up, when you’re doing a service, the water line is usually one of your grounds, along with one ground rod and one water pipe. You need to have 2 required grounds, but it’s not always the case because it could be near the meter. This is just a pretty standard installation.
Didn’t do it during the day. I think a lot of older homes have dryers like that.
Check out my original post again and see if your argument really makes sense. Older installations typically use 3 wires that all land in the panel.
That’s right, none of them are a basis.
Why would you connect a grounded conductor to a water pipe?
Do you know the distinction between a grounding conductor and a grounded conductor?
Hower on the exterior of the dryer, there’s a wire that connects to the water pipe.
Can you clarify for me the distinction between a grounding conductor and a grounded conductor?
And I want to reiterate – just because something is done a certain way in your home, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s correct or the best way to do it. What’s ironic to me is that this whole conversation stemmed from my original comment about the cold water bond becoming unnecessary when switching all the home’s conductive piping to pex style pipes. It’s clear that you’re struggling to grasp even the basics of this concept.
So let me ask you this – can you explain to me the distinction between a grounding conductor and a grounded conductor? Because I feel like we might be at an impasse here. It seems like there’s some confusion on your end.
Hower starting off with plumbers running the riser in galvanized or copper at the meter before transitioning to pex can still bond at the meter.
Bond what?
Yep, you’re right. In some states, they ask for a 12″ copper pipe from the house side of the meter before transitioning to Pex. The same goes for coming off the hot water tank – it needs to be 12″ before switching to Pex.
You have no idea, Anthony.
Hey, make sure to contact an electrician ASAP for 20’s situation on the ground. This is no joke.
Simply drive a ground rod at the panel and then run a number four bare copper wire from your 8 ft ground rod to the panel.
Wire doesn’t have to be larger than 6awg.
👆🏻✅
Well, number four is versatile, that’s why we go with four instead of six. I don’t think number six is suitable because it’s prone to physical damage.
Number 6
I learned the same thing but not for physical damage. Both must be protected from physical damage. Code only requires #6, but some places need #4 for 200amp service to ground rods. My utility company requires #4 for 200amp, so the inspectors fail if not sized correctly in my area. Code is the minimum requirement. In this case, the water meter should still be connected unless everything is plastic. Since he’s switching to pex, if he only uses ground rods, there should be 2 rods at least 6ft apart and looped! Code mandates at least 2 types of grounding electrodes, but when rods are the only option, they have to be looped like in houses with propane and well water. Just country stuff, you know.
Is always doing it
🤦🏻♂️armor it with #6 ground wire, they prefer that
Hey, , only #6 is required for the rod according to NEC250.
Connect it to the drain line located to the left of the joist shown in the picture.
Find a new spot to ground it and insert a ground rod
Hey, , make sure all grounds need to be connected to the main grounding electrode.
Why do you think it’s necessary to remove all the old pipe?
Hey, , it tends to get clogged with minerals.
Just drive a ground rod and run a new wire to it.
Remember, you still have to bond the gas pipe and run a bond to the water main and gas pipe.
Install a new line to the water pipe entering the building and connect (bond) within 5 feet of it. The water bond is what you need, it’s the most effective.
I was thinking 3 feet
I thought maybe 6 haha who’s bringing out the book!
I got it, 250.68 (C) (1) says 5ft here not sure if it’s the right code. Article 250 is too lengthy I’m finished lol
I’m currently tuning in to game 5 of the Stanley Cup finals.
A couple of years back, I was assigned to set up an IT room with all the necessary accessories 😁
The inspector had me run a ground two flights down and across a parking deck to connect to the water main entering the building, which was around 600 feet away, with only three feet of margin.
In 2017, there was a whole new approach to the “round to the water riser on the floor” operation.
Check that it’s going somewhere and not from an old service/equipment that’s no longer in use. If it’s for the service panel, locate ground rods and run a new green insulated ground wire to them, turn off the main breaker before making connections.
Trade it in for some money.
Perhaps consider recycling it.
I’ll connect the PEX pipe just to make a good impression on the inspector.
Once you take out all the steel pipe and switch to pex A, you shouldn’t need to ground it.
Drive a ground rod into the ground outside and move the ground connection from your waterline
Left it behind. rounds get too much hype
Hey, , remember they are still code. ‘t offer non-code advice.
Hey, is not needed on pex!
Peter, it seems like you enjoy having your house hit by lightning.
Hey, ground rods are for protection, Robert!
Peter, I was just mentioning that I think you are overrated.
Peter, you’re acting like a fool. You need to get your act together and help get our friend out of there.
Try installing an 8-foot ground rod, or go for 2 if that’s the only ground option available.
If the main water line from the street is metal, connect a new #4 ground wire from your main panel neutral bar to that pipe within 5 feet of its entry into the house. If the street main is non-metallic, install an 8′ ground rod and connect the #4 ground wire to it. It’s advisable to install a ground rod in either scenario.
Stick it in a real ground rod
Danger of removing the grounding bond connection from the water pipe clamp without a replacement grounding source: risk of electrocution if you end up being the connection between the ground wire and the earth ground, which is extremely hazardous (having a proper grounding source is crucial in electrical systems and equipment)
You know, ph Phillips, if there’s current flowing through the grounding wire in your service, that’s definitely a serious problem.
Just give it a quick lick.
The house recently had the old city water line replaced (lead pipe removed) and now the natural gas line has been changed to vinyl. Also, a grounding rod is required, but it’s not a big issue. Your best option.
Try to determine the reason for its presence
If you’re converting all water supply piping to PEX, you no longer need the ground cable.
Have you ever thought about asking yourself, “Where did this come from?”
It was used to secure the pipes in case of electrical contact. If you’re switching to pex, you can’t bond plastic anymore, can you?
How about moving the wire and clamp to the point where the water pipe comes into the house?
Consider replacing the current ground with a ground rod.
I hope you don’t have any pets underneath there because they might chew on the plastic
If you are keeping any part of the pipe in place, it will still act as a ground as long as it goes into the ground.
For proper house electricity grounding that meets current code requirements, you need to have a functioning ground. This is where you should connect the ground wire for the dryer and other appliances. The water pipes could have been sufficient for grounding if the metal supply lines were correctly grounded. If you switch to pex, then you must reconnect that wire to the appropriate grounds wherever they are located.
Pex is a great solution for those old galvanized pipes. With a 1/2″ pipe, you can reduce the internal diameter to 1/4″. Plus, when you disconnect the pipe at a joint, you release around 20 lbs of sediment that ends up clogging all the outlets. Sink aerators get clogged, and shower valves stop working properly.
Make sure to switch off all power before disconnecting. If it’s used as a service ground, it will shock you if you don’t turn off the power first!
If disconnecting it knocks you on your butt, there might be some bigger issues at play that need your attention. Make sure it’s not connected to any potential earth.
If you have an older home, it might only have a water line ground instead of a ground rod. If that’s the case, it should still work.
If you have a bad neutral connection, only contact Jr.
Jr., if you’re feeling poked from the ground, there could be some serious problems happening.
If the neutral tap on the transformer is not connected anywhere else, then there could be voltage from neutral to ground.
Reconnect it to the pex.
Follow where it leads, it might not even be active. If it is active and necessary, install a new line back to the water meter line where you won’t touch it.
Ask an electrician to install ground rods in the building and connect it there. 🙂
Working in electrical contracting is no joke. It’s dangerous if you guys are not careful.
Now you have to run the ground directly to the meter instead of using jumpers.
In many cases, OHJ require a service ground to a cold water pipe. Nowadays, it’s better to drive an 8′ ground rod for bonding the ROUNDIN conductor due to plastic pex lines. When removing a ground wire in a live service, always wear insulated hot gloves to protect yourself in case of a fault.
Add copper and reconnect it
Make sure to ground the rod before transferring after shutting down completely.
If it were me, I would suggest driving in 2 ground rods to properly ground your service. It’s possible that there are no ground rods in place because the water pipes are being used as the ground. Once you remove that, you will lose the ground connection.
The pipe needs to be bonded to prevent any potential electrical hazards in case of a lightning strike. It’s important for safety reasons.
Hey, , this is a code requirement, along with other bonding.
A smart move would be to loosen it up and check the breakers for hot to ground on each leg until you find a short circuit. Then ground it properly.
In the past, bathrooms and kitchens often utilized this method to ground outlets near water sources. Old plugs and wiring from the 50s lacked grounding wires.
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Ensure to connect it to all metal parts.
If you’re replacing all the metal pipes with PEX, you won’t need to bond them anymore. Just make sure to remove the bonding wire.
After going through all these responses, all I can say is I’m amazed.
Make sure to understand the distinction between grounding and being grounded.
I’m planning to replace the galvanized pipe in my home with a new 3/4″ copper pro press to the water heater and PEX Manifold. Then I’ll have to run the waterlines through the ceiling. Should be interesting!
Let’s head over to where your shut off valve is and attach it there.