How do I fix cracks in my ceiling drywall that is attached to perpendicular boards running along the joists?
Asked by Lucia Flores 
3 weeks ago
Last Updated: November 3, 2024
Has anyone come across ceilings that look like this? I think the ceiling drywall is connected to the boards that are perpendicular to the joists, right? I’ve got some cracks that I need to repair, but I’m not sure where to put the screws. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
My house is actually set up the same way. The drywall on the ceiling is screwed right into the 1x4s. So feel free to add screws wherever you think they’re needed.
In some regions, drywall used to be available in smaller widths. Those tools are probably used for joining and nailing.
Might have an idea. The house was constructed in the 1950s. The bathroom was renovated in the 1990s, but the 1xs are not present in that room. Thanks.
That thin sheet of gypsum was actually known as ‘plaster lath’ and was utilized in that way. It would be covered with plaster, one brown layer, and one finishing layer.
Mentioned it’s Sheetrock
Plaster lath is basically gypsum sheetrock in a different form. You’re out there, making your own assessment, just offering some assistance.
If you’re here on the premises, I’ll need to kindly request that you vacate my property.
What about lath?
Rock lath, also referred to as gypsum lath or button board, serves as the conventional foundation for plaster. Essentially, it’s a variation of gypsum wall board, resembling drywall but designed to accommodate wet plaster.
Haha, relax, we’re going very soon! 😂😍
But on mine, there’s no plaster
Perhaps they decided to use it for a different purpose.
I believe it’s drywall, not plaster.
For a timber batten ceiling, the spacing is 450mm at the center. Nowadays, we often use metal battens for this.
The last house I renovated had a similar setup but with ceiling tiles that were attached to those 1×4. No insulation. We removed it all and added insulation and drywall.
Hey , I think this is the right answer. I mentioned the same thing.
Be cautious up there. It seems like it was treated for vermiculite insulation which was common in many of these constructions in that era and may contain asbestos. If the area wasn’t adequately treated and enclosed, make sure to always wear a mask in that space.
Hey Scott, why do you believe that?
I think I see some vermiculite in the picture, which was commonly used in ceilings in the late 1940s and 1950s to support heavy insulation loads in homes in the Midwest and Northeast.
Scott, exposure to low levels of Steven isn’t really something to worry about.
Hey Scott, this house has been in the family for a while and I don’t think there was any insulation until I put some loose fill when I moved in. You might just be seeing some leftover dirt and trash that the clean out company missed. I can’t say for sure if there was vermiculite insulation, but I know the siding is asbestos that was covered with brick a long time ago. Thanks for getting back to me.
Are those nailers for joining wood? Is this the attic? Where is the insulation located? Are you removing it?
Has been working on the attic. It was cleared out recently, but there wasn’t really anything up there to begin with. He’s now focusing on getting the right level of insulation, but there’s some prep work that needs to be done first.
Typically, the ceiling joists that the ceiling is attached to are spaced either 16″ or 24″ apart from each other.
Right, but the drywall isn’t secured to the joist. I can only assume it’s nailed to the 1xs, or maybe the 1/2 floor boards below the joists, but I don’t see any nails poking through. There are also no signs of nails through the joists in the gap.
I’ve witnessed Liquid Nail being used to secure drywall as well.
I’m a little worried about that, not sure if they did that in the 50s.
Participant: Good observation.
It’s textured ceilings. I have the same in my attic. I’m thinking your home is from 1970 or earlier.
Isn’t plastered.
Hey Chad, that’s actually not lathe and plaster, it’s meant for ceiling tiles.
So, those slats you see spaced about 12 inches apart are where 1′ x 1′ ceiling tiles were once stapled.
I totally agree with you. Dealing with that situation is a pain because the 1×4 spacing is tricky. We had to add new 2x4s to ensure the right spacing for the drywall, preventing sagging and allowing for proper insulation stapling.
Yeah, that totally makes sense! I remember only seeing drywall ceilings growing up. I’m thinking that using 3-inch screws in the ceiling joists can provide the support needed for the cracks, along with screwing some into the 1xs or whatever they’re called.
I ended up gutting that house completely down to the studs, the drywall wasn’t up to today’s standards, and it was attached with dry nails. It was all very fragile, so I gutted the entire house and redesigned the layout while I was at it
I really wish I had access to resources like this group and YouTube when we first moved in 16 years ago. There are so many things I would’ve done differently. I love this house too much to part with it, but if I had the funds, I’d completely renovate it from scratch.
It cost me nearly 30k to accomplish that, it was a full remodel with a new roof. Had to do quite a bit of rewiring, as there were no junction boxes and proper runs for each room. Turned out really nice. I’ll share some photos later.
It took about 5 months to finish the project, mostly working in the evenings and weekends with my father-in-law, wife, and sometimes our two teens. We hired contractors to install the new white metal roof.
My dad did all the wiring before we moved in, mostly in the attic or under the house. I’m not a fan of how he did some things, so I’m trying to update and fix them as much as I can.
I’ve actually had two older homes with knob and tube wiring. They were even older than homes from the 1950s!
Hey guys, not to start a competition here, but I have to correct you all. The furring strips are actually there to provide a 16″ on center fixing surface because your roof trusses are 24″ OC. If you drywall on 24″ on a ceiling, it will likely sag. And if you skimp on screws or have a high pop rate, it could potentially fall down. This is especially risky on ceilings, not as much on walls.
I would assume those were originally nailed for the tongue and groove staples in ceiling tiles at some point. I don’t see any issue with leaving it in place when they replaced it with drywall.
They probably used furring strips to smooth out the ceiling, which is pretty common in old houses.
Usually aims for 16″ spacing when roof trusses are 24″ apart. Drywall can droop on 24″ spans
Also said that
Mentioned something about ceiling tiles
It’s possible but usually ceiling tiles are installed on a suspended wire grid. You could try a different approach, but you might end up with holes to patch and lose the ability to easily access the space above for wiring.
Have you come across a different type of ceiling tiles than the ones I saw on Google?
Hey , are you considering a drop ceiling? I’m actually referring to acoustic tiles that are glued and stapled in place.
Oh, interesting new discovery for me today.
My house, built in 1965, has furring strips like this. I replaced the old drywall with new drywall. It’s not plaster and lath, just drywall mounted on furring strips. The furring strips were used to ensure 16 inches on center, as the roof joists in my house are 24 inches OC. Drywall typically sags on 24 inches.
I forgot to measure the spacing on the furring strips. Joists are about 16 3/4 on center, which is throwing a wrench in my plans to lay down batt insulation under a storage platform I’m hoping to build in the attic.
If that’s the situation, then it definitely makes sense to install furring strips for a 16″ OC surface. Just make sure not to connect drywall with a wood strip at the seams without securing it to the ceiling joists. I’ve experienced sagging and cracking joints before, so I had to take it down after seeing it under the lights.