How do I calculate board and batten spacing for walls with varying lengths, a door in the middle, and a light switch plate to consider?
I could really use some help figuring out how to do board and batten. I have a wall with a door right in the middle, and the two walls on either side are different lengths. The right side is 7 feet 1 inch long, the left side is 5 feet 11 inches, and the door is 2 feet 4 inches wide. On the longer wall, there’s a light switch plate that’s 1 foot from the wall and 10 inches wide. I was thinking of using 1×3 common boards for the vertical pieces, but I’m not sure how to calculate the spacing and layout. I want to have boards on each end, but when I get to the door, I’m having trouble figuring out how to space them evenly so the door is centered. Should I have different spacing on each side of the door, or should I just keep it the same and not worry about the door being perfectly centered? I also need to work around the light switch plate so it doesn’t end up in the middle of a board. Any suggestions? Does that all make sense?
If you’re struggling with this step, it might be best to seek help from a designer and contractor. It’s important to get it right from the beginning.
Hey Milton, I appreciate your input but I’m really just seeking some opinions on how to best center the door between the boards. I had a few designs in mind before, but I can’t seem to find them now. Any advice or tips would be great!
In your post you mentioned not knowing how to do spacing. So now I’m a bit confused about what exactly you’re asking 💁🏼♀️
I apologize if it came across like I’m not familiar with math, that wasn’t my intention. What I meant was whether it would look better to evenly space everything along the wall without centering the door, or to center the door and have slightly different spacing on each side.
Dealing with a tricky layout? No worries, you can do it! Let’s start with the door. Since it’s the focal point, consider centering it first and then determining the spacing around it. You may choose different spacing for the boards on each side of the door to ensure it stays centered. This is perfectly fine and is often done to accommodate unique architectural features.
Regarding the light switch plate, a general tip is to plan your board layout in a way that avoids overlapping with the switch. This might require adjusting the spacing in that specific area.
For more accuracy, you would typically measure the full length of the wall, subtract the width of all the vertical boards you’ll install, and then divide the remaining length by the number of gaps to determine your spacing. ‘t forget to consider the light switch and the door.
Remember to sketch it out on paper, or better yet, lightly mark your layout on the wall before cutting with painter’s tape. Measure twice, cut once, right?
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Oh hey, there’s a tiny coat closet over there because on the other side of the wall is a bathroom and bedroom. This closet is right next to the bedroom closet, it was pretty much the only available space for a coat closet
Hey , what do you mean? I was discussing the placement of the vertical boards. Should the door be centered between two slats, resulting in slightly different spacing on each side? Or should I maintain the same distance between all the boards, even if it means one board ends up closer to the door?
Hey , just wanted to show you something similar to what I’m working on. I’m actually planning to do it on both sides of the door.
Hey , when it comes to board and batten, the typical approach is to evenly space the boards. However, I’m dealing with a few obstacles here. Any thoughts on how I should handle the spacing? I’ve tried looking for solutions online but didn’t come across anything useful.
I’m not really feeling the idea of a bead board like suggested. I’m more into the board and batten look for my project.
I totally get what you’re saying, Rob. I’ve seen so many tutorials about this, and they all seem to recommend using liquid nails to glue it on, followed by a brad nailer. Then, you fill in the nail holes and seams with wood filler and caulk.
I was a little concerned about the boards not being perfectly straight, so I thought about using an MDF board and cutting my own strips. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to do it, but I sketched something out earlier and hopefully won’t have to cut too many.
Listen, the straight boards are not my main focus right now, I’m not a clueless girl who hasn’t used a power tool before, I’ve done a lot of DIY projects, if the boards aren’t straight enough, I can come up with an alternative.
No worries, I can handle the math, and the tutorials didn’t mention putting it on the studs
I saw they have pre-made panels with this design
I’ve already explained several times the type of advice I need, and I’m not concerned about getting electrocuted. I’ve hung plenty of things on my walls without issue, and my house is new so I know how it’s constructed. I’ll share pictures of my progress later. Your advice so far has been discouraging, suggesting I give up and use tacky panels instead of something more helpful.
Mentioned that he wasn’t sure, but I know exactly what I’m doing. I was simply seeking opinions on how to manage the issue of the door affecting my spacing.
I hope you do well.
Hey Rob, I just wanted to clarify something. I wasn’t looking for instructions on how to do board and batten, and I definitely wasn’t trying to start an argument. My main question was about how to handle the spacing around the door. Should I aim to evenly space the adjacent boards to the door and then work out the spacing to the right to accommodate outlets and lighting, with slightly different spacing on the left side? Or should I maintain the same spacing throughout the wall, with specific measurements from the door for each board? This was the only part I needed help with, everything else I feel pretty confident about.
And I were discussing ceiling height, rearranging closets, and potentially electrocuting myself.
Megan, make sure the spacing remains consistent and cut out any obstacles. You can’t change the spacing without it being obvious. Calculate the spacing based on a full board on both sides of the door. However, you may still have issues nailing into sheetrock and liquid nails can get messy.
It’s doubtful that the measurements will align perfectly with the door and avoid the outlets and switches. You may need to cover them up. Some things you’ll only discover once you’re in the midst of it, and it’s not something you can just look up on Google.
You go, girl! Get that renovation completed!
I’m familiar with this from previous projects I’ve worked on. That’s why I plan on outlining the pattern with tape or drawing lines before attaching anything to the wall.
No problem at all, !
Hey, , it’s probably best to steer clear of MDF. You’d require a table saw and some solid techniques to ensure precision and prevent kickback. The edges tend to be sharp and somewhat crumbly, so you may need a small radius router bit and/or a good amount of hand sanding to smoothen out the exposed edges. MDF is infamous for soaking up moisture (humidity), so you’ll need to seal it completely before installation. Just sealing one side could lead to warping, as MDF is essentially powdered wood mixed with a binding agent.
Oh wow, ! I’ve watched a bunch of tutorials where MDF was used, but I had no clue about those issues. I was actually thinking of using a circular saw with a kreg guide. I’ve come across other tutorials that utilize the inexpensive common boards, but similar to others, I was concerned about their straightness. Since I’m trying to keep costs down, I was planning on cutting my own boards.
I agree, quality lumber/molding/PVC can get expensive. If you apply a couple of solid coats of BIN primer on all sides of the MDF before installation, I believe everything will turn out fine. How are you securing the batten boards to the drywall? You might not hit many studs.
Our plan is to apply liquid nails first and then use a brad nailer, just a small zigzag of liquid nails to prevent any seepage.
Recently, I tackled a project where I lowered the ceiling from 16 feet to 8 feet. I used 1×4 boards from Home Depot and ended up with grid squares measuring 31×32, all tying into the 8-foot height. To ensure a seamless look, I replaced the base with 1×6 so the grid didn’t hang over. Alignment was crucial, starting from the corner and maintaining consistency throughout, even when navigating around a staircase.
Hey , I think it looks awesome! I was actually thinking about using a grid too, but ended up going in a different direction.
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I find that sketching it out always comes in handy, I believe planning is crucial.
Thanks a lot! I actually reached similar conclusions last night. I’m thinking of extending it above the light switch plate 😅 I was initially trying to avoid that, but I think I’ll need to cut a batten to make room for it.
Sending you all the best – it’s going to look stunning once you finish!
Adjust your spacing and don’t worry about the outlets, door, and light switches. Tape it off and make modifications from there. The key is to go with what looks good to you.
So, the whole wall is 156” long, right?
If you place your boards 12” apart, you should end up with exactly 13 boards. Just make sure the center of each board is on 12” centers for an even spacing on the wall. Considering the wall is 156” long.
I suggest doing board and batten on the entire wall, all the way up to the ceiling. This way, you won’t have to worry about how the door affects the spacing of your board & batten.
Another option is to put a 1×3 on each corner of the wall and measure from there instead of starting without any boards. Measure between the 1×3’s (assuming that’s the size you’re using), then divide the gap until you find a spacing that is uniform and doesn’t clash with light switches.
This link really helped me figure out my favorite layout! https://www.inchcalculator.com/board-and-batten-layout-calculator/
Consider the width of the molding (I used 2-1/4” for my calculations.)
Hey, I was thinking the same thing, I would be really annoyed if the door wasn’t centered between the boards. And yeah, the right side will be by the front door. Thanks for the input.
‘t overthink it.
Oh yes 😅, I have a tendency to overthink things which is why I’m here looking for advice on what others would do in this situation. I also prefer symmetry unless I’m going for an intentional asymmetrical look. I’ve started marking out the walls to help me visualize it better and make adjustments.
I recommend grabbing a roll of two-inch wide masking tape and using it to mark out where the battens (vertical boards) will be placed. Tape where the top board will go and indicate the suggested spacings of the verticals. Tape it down and take a look. Then make slight adjustments until it appears just right to you. Tape is inexpensive and can be easily repositioned.
Oh, absolutely! Especially if you’re just starting with b&b or if your space feels a bit off – brilliant idea!
Appreciate the advice! that was my plan
Great minds think alike =)
I’ve chosen to focus on the right side because my table and mirror will already cover the left side, plus there was an outlet and baby gate issue on that side (basement stairs are at the end of that wall). I might work on it later, but for now I’ll stick to the right side
When starting board & batten, I begin by framing out the area- (2) areas in this instance.
Check out this awesome tool! https://www.calconic.com/calculator-widgets/board-+-batten-wall-calculator/60e9e0816db6df002a0369d9?layouts=true