How difficult is it to replace a connecting door with a wall for more privacy in my two-bedroom setup with separate entrances and a Jack and Jill style door?
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 17, 2024
Do you think it would be difficult to replace a door with a wall between two connected bedrooms? It’s not very private having a door between them. Each bedroom has its own entrance door plus a strange jack and Jill door. Any suggestions or advice?
You might run out of space…I’m not quite following, could you clarify?
I’ve got two bedrooms connected by a door, but it doesn’t give much privacy. Each one has its own entrance door and a strange Jack and Jill type door.
Hey, I think that’s a really simple task. Just take out the door frame, put in 1-2 wooden studs in the door space, then do the drywall and painting. How experienced are you?
: I’m a beginner at this, so it might be best to hire a contractor.
Anonymous contributor: You got this! Just ensure the new studs are level with the existing walls you’re connecting to. Feel free to share some photos.
Anonymous contributor: Is the house older with plaster walls? If so, the thickness may differ from the drywall at Home Depot. For drywall, it’s a simple project – remove the old door and add three studs evenly. Ensure the new drywall matches the old to avoid imperfections.
‘t be afraid to give it a try! This project is pretty straightforward. Just remove the trim and the door to see what you’re dealing with. Add a footer and a couple of studs from the header to the footer. You may need some blocks on the sides to secure the Sheetrock. If you’re willing to give it a shot, this is a great opportunity to learn the basics of framing, drywall, and trimming. And if you do happen to get stuck or make a mistake (though I’m not sure how), you can always call in a professional for help.
Add a stud and some drywall, it’s pretty straightforward. Start by taking out the door and frame and then move on from there. The trickiest part will be getting the drywall just right and matching the texture of your existing walls.
When you’re removing the door and trim, make sure to have a 2×4 on each side and the top. They might be larger than what’s available now. If that’s the case, just add in a new 2×4 to each side, top, and one on the floor. Depending on the width, you may need 1 or 2 new studs (2×4). Use an erasable crayon to mark the floor and top where the new studs will go. This will help when screwing in the drywall. You’ll likely need 2 sheets of drywall, one for each side. Try to cut the drywall as close to the opening as possible for an easier taping and mudding process. Consider adding insulation between the studs for sound reduction, but it may not be necessary. Check out YouTube for helpful videos on this project, including taping and mudding. Take your time and enjoy the process.
Thanks a lot, Roland! I think I might actually be able to handle this project 😊
Hey there, I’m in agreement with – thanks a lot! I feel like I might actually be up for tackling this project 😊
Hey there, I totally agree with – this sounds like a fantastic learning project. It’s small enough to manage and my husband and I tackled an entire room together (including an interior closet) before we got married. Neither of us had any previous experience with it. I even purchased some popcorn texture to put on the ceiling because I was worried about getting the mud seams smooth. But with determination and many late nights of hard work, it all turned out great. He even added a built-in bookcase and storage bench between the bookcases by the window. It was a daring and fun project that ended up looking amazing. And believe it or not, I ended up returning that popcorn stuff back to the store.
https://youtu.be/1aa–jf4CjY?si=YVicrQZq1XWaatep
Why bother commenting if you’re not going to be helpful? Hmm?
It can be helpful if you’re open to it. ‘t you want to improve your punctuation?
To be honest, he’s the last on my list of things to do. But thanks for the feedback, hope you have a great day.
To secure the drywall, add a 2×4 on each side – one on top, one on the floor, and one in the middle.
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Great job 👏🏻
Maybe consider simply locking the door. Not sure how it would impact resale value if the nursery is directly connected to the master bedroom.
For now, Shannon, we can go ahead with that plan. But, I have a feeling that selling it again might be a bit challenging 😅
In addition to the amazing job Aron Hook did with the detailed pictures, I recommend incorporating soundproof insulation.
Just combine two by fours with some drywall, mud, texture, paint, and base trim. Piece of cake.
You could totally go old school and turn the cavity into a built-in shelf if it works with the space.
I’d say it’s pretty easy. Start by removing the trim. Then, use a sawzall to cut the nails that are now exposed. The door should come out easily. Use a hammer to push the nail stubs back into the wall. Add a 2×4 sill on the floor, nailing it to both sides and into the floor. Install 2×4 blocks on both sides to serve as nailers for the new sheetrock. These are not structural, so anything that fits the space will work. Add a stud or two in the center, measuring 16″ to center. Place some blocks up top. Cut and install sheetrock on both sides, then mud and tape before painting. You can get most of this done in an afternoon. For removing the trim, use a slim-jim bar and a small block of wood for protection. ‘t worry too much about the 16″ spacing, as door jam studs don’t always follow that pattern. Start from the nearest corner and work towards the doorway, locating studs by sound and adding new ones to match the pattern as needed.
Removing the trim is not difficult at all.
It was pretty straightforward. I tackled it on my own. Removed the door and jamb, filled in with 2×4 framing, cut and installed drywall, mudded and taped, primed and painted. You can’t even tell there used to be a door there.