How can we salvage our pressure treated deck after sanding failed to remove Oxiclean stain caused by stamp removal?
Asked by Florence Scott 
8 months ago
Last Updated: May 9, 2024
I recently wrote about how I had some stamps on my pressure treated deck that left behind a stain when I tried to clean them with Oxiclean. People suggested sanding them down, so we gave it a shot this weekend, but now it looks like this. Any ideas on where we might have gone wrong? And any tips on how we can fix this before we go ahead with staining?
Gently sand the remaining portion
The deck looks fantastic. For optimal uniformity, consider allowing it to season for some time. The effects of sun and rain work wonders!
The reason is that the wood you sanded is fresh and hasn’t had time to weather in the elements yet. Consider letting the deck sit for a while to observe if the sanded portion develops a patina that matches the rest of the wood, or replace the boards.
’t hurry nature. Allow it to mature for a season, then use a power washer. After letting it dry for a few days, proceed to sand and then apply the stain.
Turn over the boards
Flipped the board, sanded it down, and then applied stain and sealant.
When you sand pressure treated decking, you risk losing the treatment applied to the board. Nowadays, the treatment is sprayed on rather than soaked or heat treated. For staining, it’s best to wait around 6 months or until the wood is less green next season.
Advises against flipping them. They are meant to be on that side for a specific purpose.
Initially put them upside down, which is why they removed the stamps by sanding. So yeah, keep them as is.
Make sure the grain of the wood Arc is facing up, like a rainbow, regardless of the stamps. Head over to the “You don’t know shit about decking” group with a pad and paper.
Wow, someone must really be unhappy with their life to be so rude to people they don’t even know. 😢
Is a real group. I’m not trying to be rude, but don’t advise someone to do something that will make their deck lift on the ends in a month. Cupping is inevitable with that type of wood. Just sharing my thoughts.
I am already offended by your statement.
I have accumulated 35 years of experience in building and inspecting homes. I do not require validation of my opinions from individuals lacking industry experience such as yourself. It may be more beneficial for you to focus on your own perspectives rather than attempting to police others. Thank you.
I have extensive experience building decks and working in the industry. Inspectors typically view deckboards as new and flat, without scrutinizing how they are laid. Please refrain from questioning my integrity and skills until you have witnessed the substantial amount of quality work I have completed. If you are unfamiliar with coping and deck construction, perhaps consider exploring a different profession. Additionally, take note of the board stamp.
😂😂😂😂
Thank you for the laughs 🤪 I’ll make sure to inform my employees and customers that I should be doing something else😂
How about giving it a quick spray with some water?
Many of us suggest holding off on staining new wood this year. You may end up regretting it when the stain doesn’t turn out well. Just looking out for you, since you asked for advice and seem to be going in the opposite direction 🤷♀️
Make sure to sand the whole deck, not just certain spots where there are stamps. Check out some YouTube tutorials on preparing decks so you don’t end up wasting time and money.
I’m grateful for your input! We purchased a water meter, and the wood’s humidity is currently around 13%. Many painters have advised us to stain it before winter, but I understand that it’s often best to wait.
Regarding the picture question: I mean, what were you anticipating? The color will change slightly because you removed some material. Some people initially suggested using a floor sander and sanding the entire board(s). While that would help, there would still be areas that the machine missed. First, ignore those who suggest flipping the boards. They are installed “bark side up” to prevent warping. Flipping them would disrupt that. They are also nailed down, making removal difficult and likely to cause scuff marks. Additionally, consider boards that are notched for railing, etc. If you wait until spring, the wood will be wet from snow and grey. I recommend waiting until October when things have dried out to stain it. Cover it at night if there’s excessive dew, and uncover it promptly in the morning. It’s pressure-treated wood, so don’t expect a cedar-stained look. Clean it up, stain it, and accept it for what it is. I’ve always used solid color stain for this exact reason.
Thank you so much! We weren’t sure what to expect but we were concerned that if we continued and those lighter areas persisted on the deck, the stain might not look even.
Hey , you’ll definitely notice them, including the knots. It can be tricky. Not sure about sanding off the treatment. Seems risky to me. Maybe try lightly going over the whole board to blend the spots. ‘t forget to wear a respirator. I prefer using Home Depot Bahr solid color stain. It acts like paint and can be washed off with water. It holds up well in light sun and shade, but not in heavy sun. It might start peeling after about 2 years, but if you maintain it, it’s fine. The color is consistent throughout, even though I know that’s not what you’re aiming for. Just rambling here. This is my shed deck, made of PT wood. I completed it 3 years ago (in the picture), and it still looks great today. It’s mostly in the shade with some filtered sunlight.
I just wanted to pop in and mention this. Most of us agreed to let it be for a year when the question was raised 🤦🏻♀️
Hey, no need to stress out, just chill.
Maybe try rubbing a little dirt on it and letting it toughen up.
Most people advise against staining new wood, but we did and it turned out fine. The spot you sanded does look cleaner, but it may not be noticeable with a darker stain.
If you used treated lumber for your deck, it’s best to let it weather before applying stain. You might want to wait until spring.
Sand everything gently
Hey , how about trying raw linseed oil? I believe it’s called something else in the US. It helps nourish the wood and can help hide the stains. I have teak parquet flooring that often gets watermarks, and using the oil removes them. 🇿🇦
Let it sit outside for a couple of months, then use a pressure washer on it. After that, let it dry, sand it down, and apply a finish. Start sanding with 80 or 100 grit, and finish with 150 to 220 for best results. Doing anything else would be a waste of time and money.
Give it about a week. It should change color as it fades.
Consider using a belt sander instead of an orbital one, or even a palm sander for a smoother finish if you sand with the grain.
The newly sanded area is now cleaner and less worn. It’s natural for it to weather over time, especially with exposure.
Give the whole floor a gentle sanding to remove the dirt and reveal the clean wood underneath. If needed, add some dirt back and clean it up.
My father worked as a carpenter for many years, specializing in building decks for a popular high-end deck company. When it came to using 5/4 boards, we never bothered with turning them a certain way – just laid down the best looking side with no knots larger than a dime.
I also personally took care of staining the decks for many of these customers, usually around 9-12 months after installation. I would let it weather over the winter, then in late spring, wash it down with a mixture of muriatic acid (deck cleaner) and scrub it with deck scrub brushes. After pressure washing the entire deck, I would brighten the wood with oxalic acid. Once it dried for a couple of days, I applied the stain using a car wash brush for the deck boards and a paint mitt for the verticals. I always preferred using a water-based stain, although some people advise against it.
One more tip I have is that with water-based stains, if
All the boards seem freshly cut. Just give it some time, it will all even out. You’re doing great!