How can the cove molding be installed at the top of the new bifold doors for a finished look without hindering their functionality?
Asked by Alfred Griffin 
4 months ago
Last Updated: July 30, 2024
Hey, so my contractor is having trouble fitting the cove molding on some of my new bifold doors. He’s saying that if he puts it in, the doors won’t open properly. I really want them to match the finished look of the other bifold doors in my house. Any ideas on how we can make the cove molding work at the top?
Resize the doors accordingly. If necessary, add an extra piece between the track and header to lower it and make space for the cove molding. If you’re compensating this individual, it’s worrisome that they couldn’t figure out this issue.
1) Trim the bottom of the doors adequately to achieve the necessary drop. 2) Create a wooden piece to place above the track to lower it enough for your trim. 3) Proceed with the trim installation. 4) Before taking any of these steps, consider changing your contractor. The solution to your problem is quite straightforward and standard, unlike the current shoddy trim work.
Hey , no need to disrespect Stevie Wonder in that way…
You’re correct. Wonder probably washed his hands before adding the trim and could have felt the nails sticking out. He might have even sung superstition to warn the owners.
Absolutely!
You should really consider finding a new contractor.
In my opinion, it might be time to find a new contractor.
It seems like those doors need to come down and have about a quarter of an inch trimmed off the bottoms. There’s an adjustment at the bottom that can raise or lower the doors. Right now, the tops are not level, likely due to an uneven floor or top jamb. Once you trim the bottoms, adjusting at the bottom should level the tops of the doors and create space for the cove molding. These bi-fold doors are manageable for someone experienced but can be tricky for a novice. Contrary to what some are saying, there’s no need to add extra wood at the top. Simply trim the doors a bit and make adjustments using the bottom screw. This advice is coming from a door hanger with 45 years of experience, for what it’s worth.
Well, some people around here suggest trimming the tops and bottoms of the doors and adjusting the head jamb to make room for the missing molding. However, keep in mind that altering the proportions of the doors may not look great. Another option is to remove all the casings, cut a few inches off the header (which is not a big deal in a non-bearing wall), and then reinstall longer casings, top jamb, and cove molding. If you take out the top casing, there might be enough space to make the adjustment without cutting the header. Have you settled the payment with this person yet? Encourage them to think outside the box.
In my opinion, bifold doors do not require any trim.
It’s highly unlikely that a professional contractor would perform such a sloppy trim job. It makes you wonder about the overall quality of his work. As for the ‘problem’ you’re facing, it’s clear that the contractor struggled with measurements, a mistake that could have been easily avoided by a competent professional. It’s unacceptable for a contractor to deliver subpar work and still expect payment. Consider terminating the contract before the situation worsens.
Check the top right corner if anyone thinks I’m being harsh and hasn’t enlarged the photo.
Most trailer closet doors have a similar appearance, so it should be okay. You may also consider finding a different trim contractor.
Consider cutting down the cove molding or substituting it with a 1/4 round instead of the cove on the top. Interesting suggestion to add trim inside the closet opening. That’s something new.
Only trim the bottom of the doors if absolutely necessary. There is also the option to adjust the doors downward. The current trim work appears subpar, with the bottom brackets misaligned causing the doors to be on the same level and not properly aligned. This is poor workmanship.
I typically use 1/4 round around the interior. I never use regular trim inside. It conceals the gap on the sides and hides the metal bar across the top. This seems like the work of a handyman. Quite messy.
The installation appears awful. If the head jamb isn’t level, aligning the height of both doors becomes harder. If both sides need to be lowered to clear the molding, and they are already adjusted as low as possible, cutting the door is the only option. Be sure to use masking tape on both sides where it will be cut. Attach a straight edge to the door. Cut it using a circular saw with a thin kerf carbide blade containing no fewer than 24 teeth. Unless the installer happens to have a track saw, do not allow them to cut it in any other way. Even then, using tape is a good precaution to prevent tear out.
Do you happen to have any wooden blocks under the mounting brackets at the bottom of the doors?
Any respectable contractor wouldn’t install trim that looks like that. Make them remove it all and redo it properly. Not to mention the mix of various trims encircling that one door is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Remove it all and have them do it right at their own expense.
If I were you, I’d let go of my Contractor. I’ve never seen trim positioned like that before.
I usually notice a small cove molding to conceal gaps and the track, but the decorative molding is mounted on the wall, not within the jamb.