Before clamping and screwing, apply either liquid nails or wood glue
Laura Chavez
7 months ago
Just insert 1 inch screws from the inside
Mauren da Mata
7 months ago
If you opt to screw it into the cabinets, just be sure to pre-drill the holes. Otherwise, you risk the countertop splitting.
Svyatoslava Svitlickiy
7 months ago
I’ve had no problems using liquid nails.
Aleksandra BrΓΈnstad
7 months ago
When using solid wood blocks, consider using figure 8 brackets to accommodate wood expansion and contraction throughout the year. Start by securing one end of the bracket to the cabinet with the top removed. Then, reattach the top and secure the other end of the bracket to it.
You’re right, I just noticed that. What I would do is cut a slot (as wide as the screw and about 1β long) in the solid top of the cabinet. Then, I would screw in the center of the slot directly into the top. Also, remember to use a flat washer on the screw and be careful not to over tighten it.
Advises against using 3″ wood screws – just a tip! π
Everett Cunningham
7 months ago
Securely glue that thing in place. Use plenty of adhesive and make sure to clamp it down tightly because my previous landlord neglected to do so, resulting in large gaps that quickly attracted silverfish, spiders, and other pests seeking crumbs.
Areta da Paz
7 months ago
Liquid adhesive
BenjamΓn Pedroza
7 months ago
Hey, please avoid using glue this time. Just screw it in from underneath in a few spots, make sure to predrill pilot holes only as deep as the screw and no more than 1/2 inch. And be careful that the screws aren’t too long and pierce through the top of the countertop. Thanks!
Wasn’t exactly what I had in mind π . I’m already annoyed with the previous work done by others, I can’t imagine having to replace or remove cabinets only to discover the counter is glued to it π
Holger Bertrand
7 months ago
Fasten the screw from the bottom.
Soncelik Litvinenko
7 months ago
So, what if we put a stainless steel sheet on top of the cabinets and add an upswinging hinge under a wooden slab? That way, when you need to cut meat and veggies, you can flip up the wooden part for a clean cutting surface. Just fold it back down once you’re done and it’s like magic! π€·π»ββοΈ
That’s a great point π. The gap between your countertop and upper cabinets is typically too small to lift the countertop like that, plus this is in my laundry room so not much chopping happening here π
Patrick Schimmelpfennig
6 months ago
Avoid overdoing it with glue. Apply a quarter-sized amount of silicone to each corner of the cabinets instead. Allow it to set for 24 hours. This method mirrors how a slab of granite is typically installed. If you need to replace it in the future, a small pry bar can easily remove it after 10 years.
I had corner brackets under my cabinets to secure/screw the top onto them
Yep, my kitchen cabinets also have that. These are utility cabinets with solid tops built in.
I’d definitely stick or attach with screws, maybe even both
Remove the drawers and fasten them from underneath
To avoid cracking the block, it’s best to use glue with .
If you drill pilot holes, won’t crack the block.
Suggests drilling guide holes
Fluid adhesive
Using glue will let it expand and contract as necessary, whereas screwing it can lead to issues.
I’ve come across wooden countertops with both options.
Made a good point, but it still holds true π€£
Remove the drawer, attach a clamp, and use screws that are just the right length to secure it – around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches
Before clamping and screwing, apply either liquid nails or wood glue
Just insert 1 inch screws from the inside
If you opt to screw it into the cabinets, just be sure to pre-drill the holes. Otherwise, you risk the countertop splitting.
I’ve had no problems using liquid nails.
When using solid wood blocks, consider using figure 8 brackets to accommodate wood expansion and contraction throughout the year. Start by securing one end of the bracket to the cabinet with the top removed. Then, reattach the top and secure the other end of the bracket to it.
I hear you, but the top of the cabinet is solid so I can’t attach the brackets separately to the block and cabinet
You’re right, I just noticed that. What I would do is cut a slot (as wide as the screw and about 1β long) in the solid top of the cabinet. Then, I would screw in the center of the slot directly into the top. Also, remember to use a flat washer on the screw and be careful not to over tighten it.
Mount it from the bottom..
Liquid adhesives
Adhesive for construction projects.
Secure it from the bottom. Remove the drawer and open the cabinets for easy access.
Hey there, check this out!
Advises against using 3″ wood screws – just a tip! π
Securely glue that thing in place. Use plenty of adhesive and make sure to clamp it down tightly because my previous landlord neglected to do so, resulting in large gaps that quickly attracted silverfish, spiders, and other pests seeking crumbs.
Liquid adhesive
Hey, please avoid using glue this time. Just screw it in from underneath in a few spots, make sure to predrill pilot holes only as deep as the screw and no more than 1/2 inch. And be careful that the screws aren’t too long and pierce through the top of the countertop. Thanks!
Wasn’t exactly what I had in mind π . I’m already annoyed with the previous work done by others, I can’t imagine having to replace or remove cabinets only to discover the counter is glued to it π
Fasten the screw from the bottom.
So, what if we put a stainless steel sheet on top of the cabinets and add an upswinging hinge under a wooden slab? That way, when you need to cut meat and veggies, you can flip up the wooden part for a clean cutting surface. Just fold it back down once you’re done and it’s like magic! π€·π»ββοΈ
That’s a great point π. The gap between your countertop and upper cabinets is typically too small to lift the countertop like that, plus this is in my laundry room so not much chopping happening here π
Avoid overdoing it with glue. Apply a quarter-sized amount of silicone to each corner of the cabinets instead. Allow it to set for 24 hours. This method mirrors how a slab of granite is typically installed. If you need to replace it in the future, a small pry bar can easily remove it after 10 years.