How can I securely attach the framing of my non-floating bar to a floating wall in my Colorado basement to allow for movement on a DIY budget?
Asked by Laurie Singh 
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 23, 2024
Hey, I have a question for anyone who knows about this stuff. I live in Colorado and apparently, I need to have floating walls in my basement. I’m trying to finish it up on my own because I can’t afford to hire a company. I’m wondering how I can attach the framing of my bar (which isn’t floating) to the floating wall in a way that allows for movement. Any advice would be really helpful. Thanks!
I’ve been framing for 37 years…. the gap should be at the top…. problem solved.
Hey, ene Kinnison, thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I have been framing for 0 years, so it’s a little late for that 👍
Having a gap at the bottom seems quite risky, man!
Haha, ene Kinnison thinks having a gap on top is a sure sign of failure.
Time to rip out and start over.
Oh, I guess you don’t live around here.
All basements must have a 3/4 inch allowance for ground movement.
Ene Kinnison in Colorado, it’s typically 1.5 inches…
Ene Kinnison 3 is the standard reference for builders, with 1.5 inches being common, which can cause issues like raised floors, cracked Sheetrock, and doors that won’t close properly
Been constructing custom homes and fixing foundations in Parker for two decades 😉
Have your local inspector come out and ask all the questions necessary.. if there’s no inspection scheduled, try looking it up online at https://images.app.goo.gl/UrUnwFvtg1oBzezj6
Adjust the position of the bar so it’s not directly against the floating wall. Install drywall on the floating wall where it meets the bar. Then, place the bar back in position without attaching it to the floating wall. Simply drywall the bar up to the floating wall and use trim in the corner to cover any gaps, but secure it only to the bar wall.
Thanks for your input. I was considering a similar idea, but I was also wondering if there could be a more effective approach.
Couldn’t really find anything about that on oogle or YouTube. There’s plenty of information on floating walls, but nothing that goes into as much detail as he was looking for.
No judgement at all!
I’m from Canada and work in construction, and it’s pretty common for houses built since WW2 to have fully finished basements. I’ve never heard of a floating wall in a basement before, what’s the purpose behind that?
You’ve got a solid foundation!
The ground in Colorado is always shifting, so the foundation is designed to float to prevent damage to the rest of the house
Ground movement is a result of freezing and thawing.
Ene Kinnison hahaha c’mon, I live in Canada. We have 6 months of winter, you know. Two weeks ago, we had a day with lovely sunshine at 70 degrees, and the next day… a snowstorm in the 20s. In Quebec, we produce 80% of the world’s maple syrup, all thanks to temperature fluctuations during spring – freezing nights and thawing days.
I didn’t write the code book, my friend. I just abide by it.
Ene Kinnison is incorrect.
Bentonite clay expands and contracts based on moisture levels; temperature has nothing to do with it. Most expansion issues occur in the spring and early summer, depending on rainfall or drought.
Buddy, do you know how many inspectors have had discussions with me about it? And it’s a code. You are mistaken!
I don’t actually fix foundations for a living in Colorado, haha! 😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆
The frost line is at 32 inches and basement floors in Colorado are now 9 feet deep. Your calculations are off, haha.
I understand where you’re coming from, Lucas. I’m on the same page as you. But just to clarify, I don’t create the codes.
Frost’s line in Missouri is 36? Colorado is only 32???? Seriously, it’s hard to believe! Just throwing that out there.
Not a framer, but I would secure the bar to the floating wall as you would on the main floor. While the ground shifts in Colorado, the basement floor doesn’t move like a water bed. If it shifts, you may just end up with a crack in the Sheetrock where it meets the floating wall. A bit of paintable caulk/silicone should take care of it. And to those criticizing his walls as ‘wrong,’ my basement walls are connected to the floor joists at the top and float at the bottom, just like his. It’s a Colorado thing, designed to prevent the basement floor from pushing the wall upward during heaving.
Hey, Will ibson, it will, but it gives you the cheaper option of removing the trim and cutting out the drywall to relieve the pressure on the floor above.
In the world of commercial contracting, we typically install a square tube post anchored to the slab at the ends and corners. For long free-standing walls, we would place one every 6-8 feet.
As a contractor in Colorado Springs, I come across this situation often… I find it amusing when people inquire about floating walls because the rest of the country thinks we’re crazy 😆
In this case, I added a 2×6 cross brace and cut a vertical slot in the 2×4 of the half wall to drive a 6-inch spike horizontally through the slot into the 2×6 cross brace. This design allows the slab/bar wall to move up if needed while stabilizing the pony wall. Passed inspection without any issues.
Hey, , that sounds perfect! I have an inspector coming tomorrow, and I’m going to pick his brain. If he approves it, that’s what I’ll do. I was also thinking about that, but instead of slot and spike, I was considering putting a drawer slider on there for up and down movement but side-to-side stability. However, if yours passed inspection, I’ll bring it up tomorrow. I’m up in Brighton, so maybe things are a little different up here. Thanks for your help!
Hey, , that’s pretty cool. Honestly, though, either way is overthinking it. I’ve seen many cases where it was just nailed. If the slab heaved, it would pull out or shear off those nails long before it pushed the ceiling joists off the foundation, which is what floating walls are really designed to prevent. Plus, your cabinets and countertop will steady that wall too, so even if you didn’t connect it, you would be fine.
Make sure the bar is constructed to support itself!
I’m just curious why you’re having an inspection on your basement project? Not trying to undermine, just genuinely curious. I’m from Illinois and this is new to me, but after reading previous comments I understand the importance of the floating wall. What would happen if you skipped the inspection? Could they really make it mandatory?
Hey, mentioned that while no one can make you get a permit or inspection, it’s a good idea if you want it to be covered by homeowners insurance.
Hey, just a heads up – all construction in Colorado requires permits and inspections, according to .
Hey, did you know that by law, working without the necessary permits is illegal? If you get caught, you’ll have to remove everything, pay a fine, and start from scratch.
Not only has to pay the fine, but when selling the house you can’t include it as finished square footage or living space, causing you to lose money in the process.
If wants to receive credit when he sells his home, it must be inspected beforehand!
Yes, that’s right. I’ve seen people get fined and even end up in jail for not getting the proper permits. If you don’t pull a permit when finishing a space, you can’t consider it as living space. So, the money you invest in it won’t increase the value of your property when you sell it. It’ll just be seen as storage space.
Is not there yet, but he’s getting closer.
I heard that they’re planning to make it a law next year.
Sure, if you’re and this situation happens, you can just pay for the permit and schedule a post-inspection for a fee.
Well, according to my real estate agent when we purchased the house last year, it’s still the same way… so, do you have a response to the original post or are you just here to point out perceived inaccuracies?
If a project is more than halfway done, you’ll need to pay for a permit, get inspections, and potentially face fines. If it’s less than halfway done, authorities can require you to start over with proper permits, but there’s no risk of jail time – they just want their fees and taxes
The bar doesn’t require it, no need to attach it to the ceiling. Only the direct line from floor to ceiling needs the float.
Went with a 1.5 inch gap, but the code requires 3.
Clarifies that the code stipulates a minimum of 1.5
Confirmed that this information was provided directly by the permitting office when my application was approved
Mentions that 1.5 is the minimum requirement, but most builders opt to do 3. Inspectors may also have their own preferences, which can vary depending on the county and the inspector’s mood at the time lol
Rural counties vary widely in their code enforcement, with some still using 2003 regulations while others have updated to 2015. Major counties like Denver, Arapahoe, Douglas, Jefferson, El Paso, Weld, and s typically update per year
Recommends doing 3 for cushion, although the code specifies a minimum of 1.5
Your bar doesn’t need attachment to the floor above! For the side wall, create a slip joint and lag to allow for movement.