How can I repair a soldered pipe connected to the wall?
Asked by Nixon Johnson 
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 26, 2024
Can you show me how to repair this? The pipe connected to the wall is soldered.
If you’re unable to remove the pipe from the wall, a trip to Home Depot may be necessary.
Was soldering and managed to come up with a decent fix for the time being.
Remove the curved section from the wall, use a fernco connector to attach it to the copper pipe, and connect a new drain section or the current one to reach the trap.
Hey , just to clarify, it’s not copper soldered. It’s actually a threaded LA pattern trap!
Remove the connection on the wall and add a small extension to it.
Warm it up a bit
Hey, relax a bit.
Seems puzzled and sarcastically asks the so-called smart guy what exactly that thing is.
Shared that he made a follow-up post indicating that it’s threaded. He seems pretty upset about it, haha.
You can use a flexible PVC p-trap from Home Depot, but make sure it’s allowed in your state
Make sure to take the metal p-trap you already have over to the Plumbing department at Home Depot so you can find the right size.
Do you know what size that should be?
I wanted to mention bringing the pipe along.
I actually managed to find a solution while waiting for this to be approved. I didn’t want to tamper with the soldered mess on the wall.
It seems like a temporary solution. The flex pipe should be changed once you find a better option.
Flexible pipes are permitted in all locations.
Swearingen According to IRC P3002.3.1, drainage fittings must have a smooth interior waterway that matches the diameter of the piping they serve. All fittings should match the type of pipe being used and must not have any ledges, shoulders, or reductions that could impede drainage flow.
Swearingen Drainage pipes should have a seamless interior.
Swearingen, those don’t meet code requirements… But hey, the trap is pretty neat and has smooth walls, so it is compliant with the code.
You did a better job than me by citing it.
You really did a great job with this! Your solution is the top choice for balancing function and cost. As long as your parts are aligned properly, it will be just as effective as any other option.
Oh, really? Well, the pipe she used has a smooth inner wall, not ribbed like those inexpensive white flexible pipes
Oh, it’s a clever trap with a sleek interior. Legal…
Karen Kessler Package
It’s not illegal for a homeowner to use for repairs or else stores couldn’t sell them. The code is designed for new installations. It’s only illegal for contractors to use. I’ll admit, it’s only suitable as a temporary fix, not recommended for a permanent repair. If you can’t understand the code and clearly don’t know the difference between the code and the law, it’s best not to embarrass yourself by spreading misinformation.
That type of flex pipe has a smooth wall on the inside and meets all US codes.
You’re absolutely fine. The kind of flex pipe you have has a smooth wall on the inside and meets all US codes. ‘t pay attention to those who say otherwise. If you take it off and look inside, I guarantee it’s smooth wall. It will work perfectly and doesn’t need replacing.
If the interior has a smooth wall, you’re good to go. But if it’s crinkled, be cautious with food or sewage going down. Use a food catching screen to avoid any headaches with that kitchen sink.
You might want to consider using a pipe stretcher for that.
PVC pipes tend to corrode over time. Remember to monitor them regularly for any issues with drainage.
I once had to resort to using a radiator hose with a perfect bend for a temporary fix…haha
Have you visited the Ask A Plumber page? Only licensed and trusted plumbers are allowed to respond to inquiries from homeowners. It’s best to steer clear of the flex pipe, as previously mentioned.
You have the option to cut it at the wall and use a rubber coupler. Then switch to PVC. The drain is likely to deteriorate over time, so it might be a good idea to run the pipe from the basement or crawlspace up into the wall and out.
If you trim the black pipe extending from the sink, there are offset options available to connect to your trap.
Attach the trap to the wall first, then grab two 45 ° connectors that can be adjusted to different angles to ensure the correct height and spacing to align under the sink’s drop pipe. You might not need the short metal riser for the black pipe, or you might need to trim the black pipe. Keep everything loose so you can adjust things until it fits perfectly.
Hey , I can totally manage this solution! Thanks a bunch!
Yeah that should work nicely.
That’s a solid temporary solution until you’re able to do it properly.
No content
In that case, unsolder it and replace it with a new one
Hey , why are you always so rude? I reported you.
I don’t think this comment warrants a report. Maybe it could have been worded more politely, but I don’t want to have to monitor every potentially rude tone.
Hey , if we’re okay with letting people be disrespectful and using laughing emojis in response to someone giving a valid suggestion, then the moderation of this group is off. I think I’ll take my leave.
My suggestion is to link the trap to the wall socket, use 2 offset pipes (45 degrees each), and then connect it back.
Maybe placing this elbow halfway up could help you reach your goal.
Cut the extension thread off the wall to fit the size, and then attach it to the trap
Either go for the 45-degree or 90-degree tubular pipes
Tool for expanding pipes
If you were nearby, I’d be happy to help you fix it properly without charging for labor, just for the cost of materials. Can’t stand these expensive contractors who only care about money…
Hey , what’s your experience with this group? Are you here to learn some new tricks?
Hey , do you think thirty years of plumbing experience and a degree in electromechanical engineering make me an expert?
Hey , you’re awesome, we could use more people like you!
Whoa! Looks like you’ll need the power of a dying star to melt that solder. Better clear some space, unless… Do you happen to have a Thor?
You gotta connect those two things that are currently separate, yeah.
Check if that piece can be pulled out of the wall a bit to reassemble the trap. If not, Home Depot has extension pieces to lengthen it. Just show the salesperson what you have, and they’ll guide you on what you need and how to do it.
Seems like your waste lines are all copper, hence the soldering. Just heat it up and solder on the new extension.
Unsolder it or use a flexible approach
Exte.nsion