How can I properly match Orange Peel texture on my walls without it looking horrible like the recommended product from Home Depot?
Asked by Antonino Lima 
4 months ago
Last Updated: July 30, 2024
Hey, so I’m trying to match the Orange Peel texture on my walls and it’s proving to be quite the challenge! I’ve been reading the instructions on the cans, priming the area, cleaning it, and still, it’s not coming out right. It looks pretty terrible, to be honest. Do you have any recommendations for a better roll-on or spray-on product I should try instead? I’ve attached a picture of what I’m trying to match and another of the product Home Depot recommended. I’m too embarrassed to show you a picture of what I’ve already sprayed because it turned out so badly.
I used the same can last weekend on the ceiling and the results were terrible. Based on my experience, it seems like this particular can is not very effective!
Did you find anything better?? This looked like almost foamy silly string coming out!
I don’t want to have to hire someone just to do texture but I’m stuck until I can get this orange peel!
Yesssss same!! It was like silly string but all bubbly when knocked down! 👎🏼 I’ve had better results just diluting some mud and flicking it with a brush. I’m still trying to figure out what to do next myself, I don’t want to hire someone either but this looks like garbage (yours looks way better than mine by the way, the ceiling was a mitigating factor, this can does NOT want to spray upwards)
I believe the product known as one shot sprays more effectively than the orange substance. It’s readily available when the hd are in stock. However, it’s the first to sell out when inventory is low
Mastering knock down requires skill. Have you tried looking it up on YouTube?
I’ve been attempting. Haha. I spend a lot of time on YouTube. This material has been similar to silly string but foamy.
Appears more like a peeling rather than a knock down to me. Seems more like an orange peel
Every time I purchase the can and attempt to repair a ceiling problem, it ends up looking like I tried to fix a ceiling problem. Best of luck!
Yeah, I totally agree with . Applying for anything definitely requires some skill. Fixing things up afterwards is always a challenge, and honestly, it never quite goes back to how it was before. It’s impressive how professionals can make it seem effortless!
I have a knockdown texture at my house and I’m nervous about making repairs because I’m worried it won’t match. Sometimes, the trick is to spray the new texture over a large area to help it blend in.
I am seriously considering getting a texture gun like this. I could get a hopper, but then I have to lug the compressor and hose upstairs. Fun times!
I’m curious to see how it goes if you decide to go for it! I’ve thought about getting rid of the texture on my ceilings, but it seems like a big project. Maybe someday!
I have it saved in my shopping cart to check out. The price is $107, but that seems reasonable nowadays. Another option is $87, but then I would have to carry my compressor around. I’m renovating a barn and doing drywall, so I think I can convince the boss that it’s worth it. Lol.
My wife and I love watching HGTV renovation shows and we always wonder. How do they make it seem so simple.
Darn it. I caved and purchased it. I can’t resist any DIY tools. My wife will probably say something. Oh boy. Another purchase. Off to grab it. Going to test it on some spare drywall in my barn and share the results.
I’m intrigued, let me know what happens, considering doing it too!
I ended up purchasing the texture gun along with the pre-mixed texture.
Wow, what a difference it made. Even my wife noticed how good it looked. Used the medium nozzle, let it sit for a bit, then grabbed a cheap 24-inch knockdown blade and it blended perfectly.
The tool is incredibly easy to use. No need to worry about compressors or air lines. Just plug it in and you’re good to go. It’s also easy to take apart for cleaning.
So much better than using the can. It’s like night and day.
Hey, I’ll snap a pic once I’m back home. Dealt with a big section because my teenager mixed up the gas and brake, ended up going through the garage drywall. It was the perfect opportunity to fix a 5-foot patch that I needed to get done yesterday.
Feel free to change the tip size. Try adjusting the orange peel texture to be bigger or smaller.
Experiment on some test pieces. Get closer or farther away as needed. Shake vigorously.
Just so you know, it may never be an exact match.
However, in most situations, once you paint it, any imperfections aren’t very noticeable.
I’ve also used a brush to dab and smooth out clumps.
Thanks, ! I’ll try some more once I’m back home. Redoing my media room required a few knockouts to run the 12-2 through the studs. They’re patched up now, but my wife wants that wall to be the accent wall in the room, haha.
The teenagers’ room has many screw holes from hanging deer mounts.
If you’ve got a bunch of patches, it might be worth considering spraying the whole wall. You may need a larger hopper to hold more paint, unless the smaller one works better and you’re willing to fill it a few times. Also, remember to tape off the ceiling about a foot down so you don’t accidentally spray texture onto it.
Out of all the patches, only 2 were big. The rest were just from some drunken hole-filling adventures, haha. But you’re absolutely right. It might actually be simpler to just tackle the entire wall at once instead of trying to blend individual squares.
Here’s a tip to make loading the hopper easier: Just cover up the areas you don’t want sprayed, like the walls nearby. The splatter from the spray will end up somewhere, so I usually tape off a wall and aim slightly towards it. Basically, don’t go straight at it, but just a little to the side so the splatter goes where you want it. Spraying the whole wall will give it a uniform look. Keep the hopper moving in small circles. You can find videos demonstrating this on YouTube. It’s quite a workout, though. I remember when I spray painted a one-car garage after re-taping and floating it, that hopper felt heavier than ever. But hey, I’m not as young as I used to be.
Have you tried heating up the can before spraying? I usually place it in a sink of hot water for a few minutes to warm it up.
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for the tip. I actually read that late last night and I’m definitely going to give it a shot next time.
Be sure to mix it up really well.
I bet it’s a great martini. Shaken, not stirred.
It can be tricky to achieve a perfect match with the touch-up spray. The cans typically work well initially, but may not be as effective if you need to apply multiple coats or if the can is not new. The key is to apply several coats. If you have a compressor, consider investing in a hopper for better results. Alternatively, you can create a small hopper using a 3-inch PVC pipe if you’re good with your hands.
I have a bunch of air tools. I might check out the prices for a hopper to see if any of my neighbors have one. We’re all retired country guys who enjoy tools and projects. Haha
You’ll achieve much better results with one. It’s important to spray past the repair area. For example, if you fixed a 1ftx1ft section, consider spraying at least 1ft in all directions, if not more. There are numerous videos demonstrating how to mix the mud for the hopper. It should have a consistency similar to a pancake batter and be under a pressure of around 60 psi.
I actually purchased a $15 one on Amazon, and it worked quite well! I found it easier to use with a pancake compressor, as it’s simpler to regulate. Just mix up some mud and dilute it to a batter-like consistency.
Using a hopper is definitely the way to go. One tip: when you spray, there may be extremely small particles present around the outer edges of the sprayed area. I typically use a 6″ DW knife to scrape off the overspray, like scraping something off the floor. Begin with a wide coverage, and as you move into the new area, lift off just as you reach the new work… it might require some practice. Best of luck.
Thanks, ! Looks like I should practice on the walls in the barn before tackling the media room. Haha.
Since this texture seems to be too thin, maybe the orange peel option isn’t the best choice. You could give the popcorn texture (red can) a try and knock it down quickly before it dries. The popcorn texture comes out thicker and creates a more random pattern when sprayed. I used it to blend a patch on a popcorn ceiling and found that it can be knocked down immediately after application. Of course, it’s always a good idea to practice with it first.
The stuff in the can was a perfect match for what you already had. I was pleasantly surprised by how simple it was.
To achieve the texture, get 45 minutes mud and thin it out. Then, take a crumpled trash bag and dab it on until it matches. As it starts to set, gently glide a larger putty knife over it to ensure a better match.
Expresses gratitude. I really enjoy tips like this. You should give it a shot.
I’m all over this! I create cakes, so I simply put the mixture in a piping bag with a tip and fill in the small repair areas to make them match perfectly.
I learned that trick from a drywall finisher! I saw him use a plastic grocery bag to dab the wall and get the texture just right.
I learned this technique from a professional, so I trust that it works – it’s as simple as using a plastic grocery bag!
I’m seriously considering getting this texture gun soon so I can just get it over with. It’ll be useful to have around. Just this one.
If you have a compressor. You can get a spray gun for $30
It never seems to come out quite right. Have you considered using a textured sponge? Personally, I’ve found that practicing on a piece of cardboard for a while really helps to perfect the technique.
I applied the can orange peel spray to my wall last year, and I thought it looked terrible, but it had to be done, so I simply painted over it. Here’s a photo comparing the old texture to the new painted texture. I can hardly spot any difference, except from about a foot away.
Expresses gratitude!
This is why I’ve decided to steer clear of using texture on walls or ceilings. I won’t have to worry about trying to match it after a repair or damage occurs.
This can be one of the most challenging things to accomplish, so be kind to yourself. If you shared a picture of your mistake, you would receive more helpful advice on what went wrong. Personally, I’m not a fan of the canned texture, but if you lack the necessary tools, it’s your best option, especially for small areas. I highly suggest checking out various self-help videos on the topic. Look for tutorials from Jalapeño Solutions and That Kilted Guy. Luckily, this knockdown texture is one of the simplest to match and blend. The key is to start with a surface that matches or is slightly lower than the surrounding texture you’re trying to replicate. Apply some splatter and blend it into the surrounding texture, then allow it to dry for a certain period. The drying process occurs from the bottom to the top, and it dries quicker when applied to bare sheetrock or compound than on a painted surface due to the faster moisture absorption in those bare spots. If you want a seamless blend, prime the entire area first so that the splatter dries uniformly. Extend the splatter well into the surrounding texture for optimal blending and allow it to partially dry. The partial drying time varies based on factors like humidity, temperature, and ventilation, but I recommend waiting longer than you think, usually between 10 to 25 minutes. If you wait too long, you can lightly sand down the fully dried texture, but be careful not to overdo it. Another tip is to use a slightly damp sponge to gently wipe the outer edges of the new texture after it has dried. Always prime over your finished texture before applying the final coat of paint, as it aids in the blending process. ‘t be too hard on yourself even if it’s not as flawless as you envisioned. Once it’s painted in alongside the surrounding area, others will never notice.
If it appears messy, don’t worry – you can still wipe it off once it dries, as long as you haven’t painted over it yet.
So, , huh? That’s a relief. I haven’t painted over it yet.
Consider trying Lowe’s version. Practice on cardboard to understand how to use it. You will need to apply 2-3 coats and allow drying time in between. If a large blob comes out, you may need to scrape it off and apply another spray. It is recommended to practice outdoors
No content
I’m sorry, it’s tough to upload photos on this browser. But I managed to complete the bottom part. From up close, you can see it’s slightly different, but overall it looks almost perfect.
It’s noticeable that the base of the application was a bit dense and there are a few blobs, but mostly it was done directly from the can without any additional attachments. Buy more than you think you’ll need, and once again, I suggest trying Lowe’s. I have used both and found their sprayer to be better – it didn’t get clumpy.
Apply several light coats
Purchase a hopper gun. Around $40 at harbor freight. Possibly $60 at Lowe’s or Home Depot
Those cans of texture are not very effective and not worth using.
I have experience with those cans. I suggest practicing first. Opt for the oil-based option. Shake it vigorously for about 10-15 minutes. Begin with a small or fine setting. Allow it to dry before adding another layer with larger blobs. If you accidentally apply too much, consider sanding it slightly for a smoother finish. ‘t forget to use a primer before painting.
It’s known as “KNOCK DOWN” technique – spray from a distance to create splatter, then gently skim with a wide trowel!
Is still learning the technique. It’s not as simple as professionals make it appear, but he believes that with more practice, he will improve and achieve smoother results.
Mentioned that he has tried it multiple times! He recommends practicing on a piece of cardboard.
Said it’s like peeling an orange. The picture above this comment shows the process.
Your original walls were textured using a hopper and sprayed on evenly. It may be difficult to achieve a perfect match, but try experimenting with some mud and a spare piece of sheetrock you have on hand. Splatter the mud on the spare sheetrock and practice until you get close to the original texture before applying it to your wall!
I’ve had more success with the red can
That dumb Adult version of silly string will never, ever, ever, ever blend in with your ceiling texture. It’s terrible, you’ll always be able to tell. Rent a texture machine and spread it out further than just the area you’re covering. Then you’ll need to repaint the entire ceiling to make it less noticeable.
I’ve given this a shot many times to avoid the hassle of using an air compressor, texture gun, bucket of mud, and so on… but I’ve never had any luck with it. It works okay a few times, but never successfully.
It’s definitely a learning curve. I experienced a few mishaps but gave it another shot and got it right. It’s all about getting the spray just right.
I placed the can upright in a sink filled with warm water for a few minutes. Be careful not to get the sprayer wet, but I believe this helps it dispense more smoothly.
We tackled the can & hopper and boy was it a challenge both ways. In the end, we decided to tackle the entire wall since it wouldn’t blend in.
I’ve consistently had excellent outcomes with that product.
You’re too close. Give yourself some space. It’s always a good idea to practice on a piece of drywall or plywood first to get the technique down.
Make sure to use a hopper sprayer with medium texture material for this task.
Ensure the placement is correct. Step back a few feet and apply in short, quick bursts.
Practicing is key – I apply spray onto cardboard to achieve the desired texture – spraying and overlapping in small circles – for knock down with a flat plateau, apply a thick spray, allow it to set for a minute, then use a knock down knife with minimal pressure to swipe the surface. Note that orange peel and knock down textures are not the same. (refer to image for knock down)
When I had to re-texture a bathroom after removing layers of wallpaper, I found that lightly overlapping the “good” textured areas while applying a bit more pressure on the “bad” areas worked well. Blending it all together with a wide plastic spackle spreader to knock it down is key. It does require some practice.
Spray in circular motions and adjust the size as needed.