How can I prevent my LVP from sagging in a high-traffic area of my kitchen after 6 months of installation?
3 months ago
Last Updated: September 8, 2024
Hey there! I’m dealing with a little issue with my LVP flooring sagging in the kitchen. It’s been about 6 months since it was installed, and there’s this one spot that feels like it’s going to crack because there’s a big gap underneath. I was thinking of maybe drilling some small holes and filling it with foam. What do you think? (And sorry if this sounds familiar, I could’ve sworn I asked about this before but I can’t find the post!)
The best way is to grab it and apply self-leveler to any low areas. It’s not a huge amount of deflection, so don’t stress about it.
Does anyone else notice that vinyl expands when it’s hot and contracts when it’s cold? I wonder if the flooring is rising up due to the heat, and if it will go back down when it cools. Is there a gap underneath where we can shim the floor from the bottom?
You’re likely to make things worse if you meddle with it, sometimes it’s best to just leave it be.
Drill a small hole in the affected area and utilize the recommended product
I think LPV should be able to move, so using adhesive might lead to other issues. There are caulking products like Big Stretch that are made to stretch and could work better to accommodate movement.
It’s likely too snug along one or two edges, or there’s silicone applied all around leading to this issue due to expansion and contraction… sometimes, it’s best to just leave it be
Planning to give this a shot: https://youtu.be/ZTz3hioLEI?si=S2c2Ja0xSPC0AkAq
Sudden shifts in humidity levels can also result in the top layer bulging
Remove the baseboard and confirm there’s at least a 1/4 inch gap all around the floor’s perimeter. If not, trim the floor so there is a gap. This will allow the floor to settle and lie flat.
If you fill the gap without ensuring there’s room for expansion, you’ll be filling the space where the floor needs to move. The floor will either find a new place to expand or it will rise higher in the existing spot.
Under no circumstance should any part of the floor be attached to anything.
Is the correct answer.
Take off the trim, meticulously remove each board, prep the floor, pour self-leveling cement, reinstall the floor and trim
After 15 years in the flooring business, this is the method to go for
This is why I can’t wrap my head around why everyone keeps installing this garbage like it’s top-notch. Sure, it’s inexpensive, but it’s also lacking in quality. It’s a remnant from house flippers that somehow gained immense popularity. Opt for genuine flooring, that’s my two cents 🤷♂️
Make sure to check the baseboards for the necessary gap. The floor should float and be able to expand.
In case there is a gap, consider using the product Fix-a-Floor.
Another option is to use a ball-pump needle and great stuff in a similar manner, but it can be tricky and might damage your floor if not done correctly.
If the floor is buckling, ensure there is a proper gap at the walls and no heavy objects are obstructing its natural expansion and contraction.
Try drilling a small hole using a drill. Then, grab some tuff stuff or your preferred alternative. We typically use tuff stuff with a needle attached to the hose – like a basketball needle with the tip cut off. Spray a little bit into the hole. Seal the hole with caulk that matches the floor or putty. Be careful not to spray too much and create a bump. This will secure the floor. Otherwise, it appears that the locking system is faulty or the floor isn’t level.