How can I handle a plumbing issue in my 1974 house, including extending the line and putting in a French drain, while waiting to afford repairs?
I moved in here about a year ago and it turns out the inspector missed that the previous owner left the cap off the grey line and there are some plumbing problems. I’ve had to call the plumbers out about 7 times already this year. They gave me a rough estimate that fixing the plumbing could cost tens of thousands of dollars because it’s an old house from 1974 with cast iron lines, and apparently everyone in the neighborhood has the same issue.
So, for now, we’ve just left the cap off the grey line. I’m wondering what the best approach is until I can save up enough to get the plumbing fixed. I was thinking of extending the line by an inch and putting in a French drain. But I’m worried that the pipe might get clogged since it’s connected to the kitchen sink, dishwasher, and washing machine.
There’s a drainage grate at the end of the line, but I have no clue where it leads and it’s raised up higher than the ground. My main concerns are the gnats, smell, and the stain it’s leaving on the house. I thought about planting some elephant ears to help with the moisture.
Just a single mom here, trying to figure out the best solution. Thanks
So, if you hired a housing inspector to check out the house before buying it, they should be responsible for overlooking issues like this. Their job was to make sure you were protected, but it seems like they might have missed something based on the report.
Hey, do you have any suggestions for my question?
There are very few instances where Inspectors have liability. (Hard to believe, right?)
I had a similar issue with my home inspection. Their limited liability was double the inspection cost… and since they broke it down, it was around $300 – actually less than half of what I paid for all the different inspections.
The inspection was not great, some items were missed, but the home inspector is not liable. In fact, every home inspection report I’ve seen includes a disclaimer stating they do not take responsibility for any missed defects or issues that may arise later.
I would connect a line to it and divert it away from the house. How about adding a flower bed?
Hey, I’m thinking of creating a flower bed. I’m also considering putting a fence around this side yard and relocating my vegetable garden here, but I need to check with the city first to see if I can install a fence. Unsure about my property lines.
What type of fence?
Make sure to take it slow and do some research no matter what you decide to do. In my area, there are rules about treating gray water before using it for irrigation.
What am I missing with my old eyes here? All I can see are gutters and drainage systems.
Explained that in the first picture, there is an opening where the gray water is being discharged from (unsure of the exact name, maybe exterior p trap?). The second picture depicts the drainage at the end of the rock bed.
Understood. They see it now. (Had to put on their readers. 🤣)
Can I assume that the absence of the cap/plug is simply for clearing out a drain line that connects to the sewer line? If yes, how close is the sewer line actually located? Maybe a quick sketch of the rest of the line would provide clarity, and perhaps someone else might have a better suggestion for you.
Exactly. The sewer line is on the opposite side of the house, though. The plumber mentioned they could reroute it for less cost than excavating the foundation to replace my plumbing, but it’s still gonna be around $8k they mentioned. I can’t afford that right now, so I’m exploring options to move forward with the cap off (probably been like that since the previous owner) in a more aesthetically pleasing way.
Got it…Is there a basement or crawl space underneath where you could run a new line yourself, or is it a slab with the plumbing in it or underneath it?
Nope, slab in Texas. They need to dig under my slab and break up my back porch and maybe parts of the house to access all the plumbing.
Alright….fixing it that way may not be ideal, but you could try extending the pipe out (like you mentioned), adding a 90-degree angle and directing it to the grate at the end of the flower beds as a temporary solution. The drain seems to be about 4 rows up, so the grate seems lower. It might have an odor, but at least the gutter water will flow into the same spot and flush it out when it rains. However, it’s possible that it’s just a dry basin where your gutters drain into, so it might not lead anywhere except the yard to drain away from the house. Lift the grate to see which way the discharge pipe goes, if there is one. Alternatively, check the curbs to see if there’s an outlet there. Run water through the grate and see if it comes out on the street. If it does….avoid draining grey water into it, as that could lead to trouble and fines for improper disposal….haha… Your idea of a French drain is also a good temporary solution. Dig a hole or trench away from the house, fill it with sandy soil and pea gravel, and let the water flow into it. Your options are limited, but those are the two best ideas I can think of for now. One more thought…..extend the pipe to the property line and divert it to the neighbor’s yard…haha… (joking there…haha) Best of luck with this situation.
Hate to break it to you….maybe hold off on contacting the city for now. They might require you to spend thousands on repairs immediately.
Discharging grey water to the surface probably isn’t up to code, but it’s not a major health or safety concern either. Just keep in mind that if you choose to do it temporarily, it’s best not to share about it with your neighbors or online.
Is right. It’s best not to discuss anything with the city. They’ll force you to make repairs and impose fines if you’re unable to comply. Simply extend it away from your foundation and plant something that thrives in wet conditions.
I’m not certain if it’s doable, but could you possibly change this to an ‘Anonymous’ post? This way, you can still receive suggestions without causing any concern. 🤷🏻♀️ Best of luck!
Just cap it off. It should be a clean out, not the actual drain.
I can’t contain it. It’s flowing back into my house. That’s what I was trying to explain in my post and why I need to get the plumbing fixed. I just don’t have $10-$30k to spare for it at the moment.
Do you enjoy cold winters, ?
Meh. Some winters can be quite cold. It’s a big deal if we get even half an inch of snow. The city comes to a standstill.
Hey , if your pipes are rotting and have holes, I faced a similar issue when I moved into my house. I went for Cure in Place Pipelining instead of a full replacement. It completely solved my problem at a fraction of the cost, in less than 48 hours, and without needing a permit (at least here in Florida). Plus, it came with a 100 year warranty and didn’t affect my insurance or home value as ‘new’ plumbing.
Yeah, those holes and tree roots have grown into them. Do they expand in the material (not sure if it’s resin or plastic) and create a new pipe inside the old one? I came across this and thought it was interesting, but my plumber advised against it. I can’t quite recall what he said, but I think it was because it would shrink my pipes. Are cast iron pipes naturally smaller than those in newer homes?
Yes, . The resin used is minimal and only slightly reduces the diameter. My house was constructed in 1968.
It is very possible, . His company does not provide that service.
Exactly, !
Can you believe how much of a hassle it is to redo the plumbing in a house with a slab foundation? It can get really pricey because they either have to tunnel underneath or dig around to reconnect everything. That’s why I recommend going with CIPP. Personally, the only digging I had to do was to install a clean out and a new line to the main from the clean out. But I could have skipped that step if I had contacted the CIPP experts first instead of the plumber.
My buddy set up a gray water line that goes to her garden watering system. You might want to consider contacting a landscaper to connect it to an irrigation system (or try to tackle it yourself!).
Hey Crys, I have a couple of questions for you: Do you have more pictures of the water and waste lines? Why is the waste water (gray water) coming out of that line on the side of the house? Are you a homeowner or renter? Do you know the frost line for underground work in your area? Is the lower floor finished? Can you see the main waste line from the lowest floor? What is your main plumbing concern right now, water lines or waste lines?
The other lines are underground, so there are no pictures of them, but they are located on the opposite side of the house. The water is coming out of that line because the cast iron pipes need to be replaced due to roots growing in them. When the cap is on, water backflows into the house. Removing the cap is necessary to use the kitchen sink, dishwasher, and washing machine. I am the owner. I’m not familiar with what a frost line is. I’m located in the south, if that matters. It’s a slab house with no basement, and there’s no access except for digging under the house and breaking the concrete. My main concern is replacing all the old cast iron pipes that have holes and root infestations.
Alright, not everything I needed to know but I can give you some insight based on the limited information. So, if you don’t have a bathroom on the ground floor, you can run a new waste line and only break up the concrete around the perimeter wall where the waste line outlet goes away from the house with a furnco. You’ll have to tie the other waste lines into it, but that’s just for appearances and you can run them up in the ceiling, down a chase, and build a simple 8×8 bulkhead or chase and enclose it with drywall. Basically, you won’t need to replace the waste and water lines entirely, just where they connect to your fixtures and water heater. This will save you from all the demo and concrete work. If you provide pictures and a layout showing supply, fixtures, outlets, and vents, I can guide you on how to run the lines and you can do the work yourself. It’s not too difficult and you can probably complete the plumbing with PEX and PVC for around $1000-$1200. The bulkheads and chases will be extra, but they’re just made from 2x4s and sections of drywall. You can skip the spackling and painting until later on. One important question you didn’t address is whether you own or rent, which is crucial in your situation. Remember, Youtube can be a helpful resource 😊 Best of luck.
Do you think a sewage tank would be more convenient for you or would it end up costing more?
Wait, so why did the plumbers have to make 7 trips out to your house? Was it just to unclog that pipe sticking out of the house? I’m a bit confused trying to match up your explanation with the photos.
Hey , it seems like you’re dealing with a variety of plumbing issues, mostly related to the holes and roots in the cast iron pipes.
Hey, Crys – have you checked if there are any roots under your house? Also, not to be nosy, but these issues sound like they might be specific to Florida. Am I off base here?
Oh, under the house and in the back patio.
Nope, Tx
Oh, I see. There might still be some similarities, depending on where in TX. Yeah, that’s tough. Have you thought about trying a hybrid approach? Maybe only replace the things that are buried in the foundation and use epoxy for the rest that you can’t access? It could save you some money if you do the digging yourself, depending on your soil conditions.
I totally understand where you’re coming from. When we bought our house from the 70s, the inspector missed a bad DIY repair that a previous owner did on the ductwork. It ended up affecting the other ducts and made the whole unit fail. The repair costs were not cheap.
I’m a little lost on what’s going on here lol, it’s probably because it’s 2:30am lol. Maybe ask other neighbors how they handled similar issues since you’re new!
Are you planning to utilize the grey water drain or connect it to the sewer system instead?
I’m situated in the Sonoran desert, and the best resource I’ve come across regarding grey water harvesting is the book “Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond” by Brad Lancaster. He also has a fantastic website and YouTube channel.
He details the methods for piping grey water out of the house into a collection basin, the regulations you need to be aware of for your specific state/county, what substances are permissible in the grey water line and what should be avoided (such as soaps, detergents, oils, bleach, etc.), and the types of plants suitable for treating the grey water.
I believe there are local water harvesting, gardening, and permaculture groups in your vicinity that could direct you to someone who can offer assistance.
First of all, it’s usually against the law to drain gray water into the ground because it can contaminate the soil and lead to foundation problems. You might want to redirect it properly into the sewer system instead.
I know exists, but I don’t have the money for it at the moment. That’s the issue.
Try getting a second opinion from . I’m a general contractor and it’s always a good idea to compare a couple different estimates. Just remember to double-check that the person you hire is licensed and insured.
I received two quotes and they were similar enough that I realized it wasn’t within my current budget.
Hey , it’s a good idea to review your home inspector contract. You could potentially hold them accountable and explore filing an insurance claim if they didn’t do their job properly. It’s worth looking into!
I’m not sure if you fully understand gray water. It’s not illegal to have drainage from sinks, dishwasher, and clothes washer – in fact, it’s necessary if you don’t have city sewer lines and rely on a septic tank. Typically, gray water drains are designed with a flat hose that extends away from the house to a low point on your property. While soapy water and food particles may not contaminate the soil, if not directed away from the house, it can cause damage to the foundation. The drain in the picture appears to be more like an overflow drain for a water heater or condenser.
Hey, my folks used to live in the countryside and had a septic system, but the gray water (from the kitchen, sinks, washer) flowed out past their pond at the back of the property. Unfortunately, I’m in the city. Good thing I don’t have an HOA though. The drainage in the photo doesn’t lead to the water heater; it’s actually from the kitchen and laundry room.
I’m currently residing in a home built in 1953 that has a concrete slab foundation with cast iron pipes running underneath. Each year, we find ourselves having to dig up the flooring (along with the concrete) to repair the damaged cast iron pipes. We’ve already spent around $10k on replacements, and there are still more repairs to be done. If you’re experiencing issues with gray water, chances are those lines are not connected to the sewer drains and may require rerouting.
Mentioned that their pipes are connected to the sewer line, but they are damaged and obstructed by roots. As a result, when they put the cap back on, it causes a backflow into the house.
You guys with old cast iron drain pipes might want to consider slip-lining your pipes with epoxy impregnated liners. It’s mostly no-dig, and no need to break concrete. Possibly around the same cost, but way less disruptive.
It’s actually a lot pricier.
Turns out the quote was cheaper for CIPP.
Looks like you got lucky. It’s not usually cheaper around here.
An alternative, albeit unconventional, suggestion would be to connect a hose and direct it towards your neighbor’s property.
One solution is to dig a sizable pit away from the house and fill it with 3/4 gravel (make it even larger if the soil has clay or poor drainage). Then, you can simply direct the grey water into this pit. However, it’s worth noting that this approach is prohibited in most areas, so it’s better to do it discreetly. Additionally, this should only be considered a temporary fix. Be mindful of what goes into the pit, especially avoiding food waste and oils.
Also not sure where that other drain connects to? Maybe it’s linked to the weeping tile or sewer. If so, just connect a pipe there for now.
I wasn’t quite sure where it led or how to connect to it.
Are you considering filing a lawsuit against the inspector?
Creating a gray water system could be a less expensive solution compared to fixing all the plumbing issues, and you can probably do it yourself. Texas does have some regulations regarding gray water, but it’s not forbidden as long as black water goes to the sewer. Here is a helpful resource: https://ossf.tamu.edu/files/2023/01/B-6176-3.08-Greywater.pdf
Yep, the black water is flowing into the sewer system. Thanks!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/JONES-STEPHENS-3-in-Pipe-Size-x-1-3-4-in-Height-Mechanical-Test-Plug-with-Galvanized-Steel-Flanges-for-Cast-Iron-and-Plastic-Pipe-T31003/100141718
So here’s the thing – most inspectors won’t bother about the missing cap as long as there’s a cleanout available. But if you can elaborate a bit more on the issues with your waste lines, I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot. And if a plumber quotes you tens of thousands, just toss their card. As a retired Master Plumber, I’ve witnessed many companies overcharge for unnecessary work. There are trustworthy professionals out there, but make sure to do your research and stay clear of the ‘BUM’S’.
I have obtained 2 estimates. One company stated that it would cost tens of thousands to excavate under the house and beneath the back patio to replace all the cast iron plumbing.
I contacted another provider who quoted around $8k for rerouting (although it still involves breaking up the back patio).
Definitely avoid the initial individual, I recall hearing about an elderly lady who was billed $95,000 to excavate under her house and replace the line to her toilet in the Ft. Lauderdale area of FL. An inspector, who is a friend of mine, informed me about the minimal work done on that particular job. Since you have cast iron pipes, unless there are unexpected issues, they should be fine. Having been licensed in NYC and Florida with two branches, I have witnessed a lot of fraudulent activities. I suggest getting a local professional to inspect your pipes with a camera scope to assess their condition. If you want a reputable expert, consult local inspectors and mention my advice if you feel you are being exploited.
I didn’t get a precise quote from them. They mentioned needing to do more work, estimating it would be tens of thousands of dollars. That’s all the information he provided. They did utilize a camera to inspect all the pipes.
I found another company/individual who offered to reroute it for $8k.
I get it. But when it involves that much money, please have more people take a look. Hire an inspector certified by the city or county, or a legitimate inspector or engineer. Before you spend a lot, a small investment in a good inspection can save you. I wish I could check it for you, but I’m now in AZ. ‘t just rely on their word.
This is what happened to my daughter in Austin. They tunneled under the slab from front to rear to replace a failed cast iron waste line. Luckily, it was covered by a home warranty. Here in California, they would cut the slab for the repair, but either way, it’s costly.