How can I frame off a door with a slant preventing an 82 height, requiring a door off-center and only room for a 26 door when I need at least a 30 door with the slant bottom at 78?
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 21, 2024
I’m thinking about adding a door here, but the slant on the top left is making it tricky to get the 82” height I need for my rough opening. If I want to stick with an 82” height, I’d have to shift the door off center and settle for a 26” door, but I really prefer a 30” door. Any suggestions? The bottom of the slant is 78” from the floor.
If width is crucial, consider making the door shorter.
I recommend shaving off an inch from the estimated height, but ensure the header is even. Any excess you can trim from the bottom of the door.
Yep, go for a door with a corner trimmed. (If you’re a few inches shy in height. If it’s just a couple then opt for a shorter door)
Find a sturdy core door and trim it to fit the angle of the roof.
Personalize a door
I’m always custom cutting doors like this and they turn out amazing
I can’t quite picture how the frame would appear with a double top plate and king stud
If we shorten the door, you won’t need to be 3 inches off the wall to install the trim, just 2 and a quarter will do. That way, you save some space.
Step into the room about 6 inches and put in a sliding door
Hey , looks like you got there before me
Haha, always has brilliant ideas
I totally agree with that response as being the top choice
Sure, let’s shorten the door.
You know, if you’re able to build a frame, then adjusting a door jamb shouldn’t be too difficult.
For certain projects, it’s necessary to design a custom door for the entire opening.
There are occasions when you need to create a custom door to perfectly fit the space.
Install a slanted divider wall – making sure it goes from straight to slanted and back to straight, or centering the door with an angled cut at the top.
Ensure the door is centered and adjust the path of your vent pipe.
Angle the entrance slightly as you step into the taller area and install a full-sized door.
Consider installing a pocket door.
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Well , there you have it.
Hey , it’s not difficult to accomplish.
Hey , this is a great choice if you need a spacious door.
I can’t quite picture how the frame would look with a double top plate and king stud. I suppose on the slanted part, there wouldn’t be any cripple studs above the top plate, right?
Opt for a sturdy wooden door and trim a few inches.
For a 6-8 door, you only need 80” for the rough opening height. A door that has been altered slightly can require 1-2” less. It’s also possible to hang a door directly from studs without a door frame. Just be cautious and skilled.
Just get it to function. A small door will do if that’s the best you can do.
There are times when you have to work with your strengths and consider adjusting the door, opting for a narrower one, or cutting it at an angle knowing you can always make it shorter.
When you reach the top of the stairs, the door will be on the left leading to a small hallway into the room.
You can custom order a door, just make sure it’s the right size for you.
Place a sheet of plywood on the left side of the floor at the top of the stairs. Put in a 2×12 header above the opening and shift the door more towards the center while reframing the sides to 30″. It would make sense to center it in order to accommodate a full-sized door. If not, you can keep it as it is, trim the door at the top, and swing it towards the center. You’ll have to move the light switch to the other side, but it should be easy since the wiring is still exposed. I suggest centering it regardless so you don’t have to worry about it hitting the ceiling and needing constant patching.
No need for a header…
I had a similar situation once. The room was limited on space, but they needed to fit a big dresser that matched the bed. I ended up disassembling the dresser and using its tracks to install drawers inside the walls on each side. This way, we utilized the space behind the walls and kept everything matching. It just required adding two vertical boards at the back of the drawers to mount the tracks. It turned out really nice and only took an extra hour or so of work.
So, when you get that bottom door, make sure it’s hollow core, not solid core. I’ve cut doors down like this before. It’s an easy fix.
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The weather forecast predicts rain for the weekend.
The reason there are so many seams is because I had to cut the drywall from the back and fold it to the left to fit it up the narrow stairs. Unfortunately, I can’t seem to locate the finished pictures, but it should give you a good idea. We also replaced the windows before finishing up the project.
Can you please pass the salt?
Had to add baffles beneath the insulation to ensure proper airflow from the soffit to the peak. Didn’t want the area under the shingles to overheat and cause them to lift, especially since it was 4 stories high.
I am going to the store to buy some groceries.
Can you please have a 30×76 door custom-made or cut down a 78″ door to fit the space?
Why do you want a solid door? It’s super simple to trim a hollow core door by cutting off the top or bottom and then either reusing the original rails or making new ones on a table saw. And if you’re in a rush, you can use cyanoacrylate glue and accelerator to quickly reglue the old or new rails.
Can you trim the door to fit the angle?
Consider cutting the bottom of your door, or perhaps altering it to create a barn door style.
Consider centering a 30″ door with a 2 x 12 header. If you opt for a narrower door, make sure to measure your items beforehand to ensure they will fit.
Hahaha why in the world would you need a 12” header??!!
You might want to consider reaching out to on this thread. He mentioned that size, but I’m not an expert or engineer to rely on. If I were you, I’d consult with a qualified individual for advice on reframing or support before making any changes.
Instead of cutting the door entirely, have you considered making a smaller adjustment? Try using a circular saw to remove 4 inches (be sure to tape both sides, use a sharp blade, and use a guide). Then, remove the core from the cut side or create a new one. Apply normal white wood glue to the cut door, clamp it, and wait. It should only take about 30 minutes.
Hey there! We actually have a small closet in our basement too, and had to cut the door just like how you described. But it turned out okay.
The blanket is very effective
Leave the door open and place it at the bottom of the stairs
Trim the door at an angle.
Here’s the thing…
I’d need to create the door frame at an angle
I’ve taken out and put in countless doors in our basement under 8 feet tall. The smallest one was approximately 76 inches tall. If needed, you can trim a hollow core door and add a new threshold at the bottom.
Similar to my attic without a door
You should consider putting in a pocket door
I think a pocket door could be a good idea
What’s the point of having a door?
If you’re handy or interested in learning, try building your own door.
Move the door to the center of the wall and expand the landing. ‘t forget to consider the furniture you will be adding.
Consider placing the door at the bottom of the stairs to make furniture moving easier. Maximizing width and headroom is important.
Install a pocket door that slides into the wall.
Construct a custom fitting for the space using 2×4’s and plywood on both sides.
Let’s move the opening a bit away from the wall and make it wider to fit a 30″ door.
Is it possible for the door to be placed in the center?