How can I fix the soft and tacky touch areas on my latex paint that keep reoccurring despite touch-ups and repainting?
Asked by Kora Harchuk 
8 months ago
Last Updated: May 10, 2024
I’ve noticed that the high traffic areas of our latex paint are getting soft and tacky. Is there any way to fix this issue? Everything was painted by professionals about 9 years ago, and I did a touch up on the door a year ago, but it’s happening again. Even after stripping and repainting the stairway bannister, the areas that are touched the most are having the same problem. In the pictures, you can see that the paint rolls off when wiped and can be scraped through easily with a fingernail. It feels soft and gummy.
What type of paint and primer do you plan on using?
Prefers Sherwin Williams Pro Classic
I think it’s located at the lower end of their product range. Possibly the problem.
Have you seen the primer?
The type of paint you choose makes a difference. Lower quality paint won’t withstand the oils from hands and will deteriorate over time.
According to , it’s sherwin Williams pro classic interior acrylic latex. Any suggestions on what could hold up well?
I always go for ‘s command from Benjamin Moore for all my doors and trim. It definitely holds up better than pro classic.
I thought it was good too, mainly because it’s the same paint our hired painting company was using. Disappointing!
I appreciate the suggestion! I’ll definitely give it a try.
That paint isn’t terrible, it’s just not as effective as Command. Cabinet paints like Milesi and Renner tend to have better chemical resistance compared to most paints.
It’s held up well in all other parts of the house except for those extremely high traffic areas. Honestly, it probably wouldn’t have been a problem if I didn’t have two teenagers and a constantly messy or oily-handed toddler 😅
That’s usually the spot where problems arise, mostly due to hand oils. This is a common issue we come across on cabinet doors as well, especially with subpar paint.
Aubrey That’s actually the identical paint we applied on our doors, but we made sure to seal them as well.
Recommends adding a shellac top coat to protect the paint from greasy fingerprints after you make the necessary repairs.
Is the door made of metal?
Mentioned that they are just regular wood interior doors.
Sand the surface first. Apply primer. Then paint over it.
Do you wash the woodwork with a strong cleaner? I usually mix a few drops of Dawn in hot water for appliances, floors, counters, and cabinets. I also use a antibacterial cleanser like Mr. Clean for toilets. We typically use BM for interior projects and SW for exterior.
As a former house cleaner, I’m really cautious about what I use. Even after repainting, I made sure to stick to gentle cleaners. The issue might be oils from everyone’s hands – mainly in the popular main hall bathroom and stair banister that my kids always touch.
Have you thought about using cabinet and trim paint on those areas?
Consider applying a shellac top coat over your paint to create a protective barrier against the oils on your skin.
I have a bit of that but not as much. You need to use oil-based or water-based paint with a catalyst to withstand skin oils.
Has the correct solution
I’ve been in the property business for about 25 years, and what I’ve learned is that no matter what you do, things will naturally wear out. Painting is a guarantee that maintenance will be needed. Higher quality paint may last a bit longer, but everything eventually deteriorates. Painting essentially means entering a cycle of repainting to keep up appearances.
I’m all for touch ups and upkeep, but I’ve actually repainted this multiple times. I’ve never resided in a home where I had to repaint a door annually.
Yeah, I’m on board with that. If it happens frequently, I would be inspecting the paint and making some choices regarding it.
It seems like the problem lies with the product. 9 years is actually quite good for paint nowadays. Have you considered trying Sherwin Williams Emerald for areas with heavy foot traffic? It’s very resilient.
Hey Chris, this is the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic paint I’ve been using. I’ve been painting and touching it up every year, but the chips and wear keep coming back. If I only had to do it once every 9 years, I’d be more than happy with that!
I’m not too sure about Pro Classic. I’ve only painted trim and cabinetry with Emerald. I’ve also used Promar for walls, but never tried Pro Classic. So far, I’ve been happy with the results and durability of Emerald. I used to use Kelly Moore Durapoxy, but Emerald is better.
I faced a similar problem and emerald urethane resolved it
It seems like latex paint was applied on top of a surface previously coated with oil enamel.
Actually, we got a new door from Home Depot
Basically, the paint started breaking down from oils on our hands
For priming, I’d recommend using this more affordable option from a hardware store: INSL-X SXA11009A-01 Stix Acrylic Waterborne Bonding Primer, 1 Gallon, White https://a.co/d/6TGHzmV. When it comes to painting doors and trim, I usually use this product: https://miramarpaintcenter.com/products/benjamin-moore-ultra-spec-scuff-x-semi-gloss-487
Respectfully, the issue isn’t the paint itself but the fact that it’s getting worn off by people constantly pushing in that spot to close the door. It honestly seems like someone is grabbing it from the outside as well. You might want to consider installing a door push plate. If you cover that area with metal, the problem should disappear 🤷🏼♂️
Additionally, it might not be a bad idea to conduct a pH test on yourself and your family. High pH bodily oils/sweat can have this effect on certain types of paint.
Oh yeah, , that’s definitely because that’s where the door gets grabbed. I have 3 kids and this only happens in the areas they use the most. That’s interesting about the pH.
You know, it’s actually dirty or greasy hands that cause this. If you strip it, repaint it, and regularly clean it with something like Pledge, it shouldn’t happen.
I swear by Benjamin Moore Advance for all my trim and doors – it stays in great condition. It becomes tougher over time and it’s actually their paint specifically for cabinets, so it’s extremely durable.
Opt for an enamel paint, as it will dry to a harder finish and offer better impact resistance.
Try pouring vodka on it. Apply two coats – one going up and one going down. Make sure to clean it first with ammonia or alcohol. After that, spray on your primer and paint.
The paint on the door feels quite rough considering it was just applied recently. Based on my 30 years of experience in interior painting, I can tell that the previous painter from 9 years ago did a subpar job.
It seems like they forgot to double prime. The gray paint is just the inexpensive factory primer, while the brown is the material the door is constructed from – Masonite or fiberboard.
Start by touching up with primer before applying the final coat of paint. And if you’re planning on painting over the door, make sure to prime and sand it smooth first to avoid ending up with the same poor finish as before.