How can I fix the appearance of my new post after it dried out and now looks awful, potentially requiring more work than anticipated?
Asked by Ramses Ozuna 
2 weeks ago
Last Updated: May 4, 2024
So we had this wall taken out and put in this big 10 inch by 10 inch post to support everything. The post is drying now and it’s not looking so great. I was thinking of letting it dry, then sanding and staining it, but it might need more than that. It looked awesome before it dried. Any ideas on how to fix it? Any help would be really appreciated.
Make sure to use plenty of wood filler! Then, sand it down
Was it a green piece of timber?
Regardless, there isn’t a foolproof method to repair checking in stain-grade finishes.
Using wood filler may lead to cracks.
If you desire that aesthetic, consider wrapping it with a wood column instead. (Using kiln-dried lumber)
Green timber refers to freshly cut timber that still contains natural moisture, preventing warping and cracking by watering it at the mill using sprinkler systems. The wood needs time to dry out before installation, with thicker pieces taking longer.
When buying expensive trim wood or finished planks from molding aisles in stores, they are often kiln-dried in giant ovens to reduce warping or twisting, but they come at a higher cost.
For large supports, some opt to use iron round posts wrapped with dried expensive wood to create the appearance of solid posts, primarily for outdoor use.
Consider staining it to match the color of the table and blend it with the room. The cracks will add character, making it a focal point of the room
You have the option to stain it and embrace the natural rustic look of the wood, or use dry 1 by to create a decorative piece
Is the 10×10 secured to the floor and beam? Was a footer used during installation? Has there been any shrinkage with the drying process? If everything is solid and there haven’t been any changes, you could embrace the rustic look and give it a more distressed appearance. You might want to sand it a bit beforehand to avoid splinters.
A solid footing is necessary for the post to support the weight.
This! I recently added a beam in my house and had to pour footers for the supports.
Hey, as an architect, it really bothers me when I see a post without a footing 😂
I’m not an architect, but I understand the concern about the frost affecting the foundation.
How is the slab itself NOT considered the footing? Doesn’t it help distribute the weight of the post across a larger area, essentially serving as the footing? Even if it’s not directly on the slab, it still acts as a footing rather than just soft earth. I’m not sure what else would be expected in terms of design.
Because the slab alone isn’t thick enough to support the weight of the column, it could potentially crack and settle. The footings around the perimeter and columns are 10-12” thick, while the slab is only 5-6”. Footings also help prevent sinking and settling by reaching the frost line. I also don’t see a proper method of attaching the column to the ground, which could cause movement. If there is ground movement, especially in a seismic zone or unknown soil type, it’s something to be cautious of.
A 4-inch thick slab may not be substantial enough to serve as a proper footer, .
Hey , how did you determine that there is no footer? From the image, it seems like there’s only a half-inch gap at the base.
Hey, I’m , an architect who also has concerns about the lack of footing. That slab is bound to develop cracks eventually.
I see your point, but my assumption is that if a load bearing wall was removed, there should be a footing running under the entire length of the wall. It seems like some patchwork has been done here, so that could be the situation in this case.
The majority of the support comes from the lvl beam spanning across to a few 2x4s standing on end. The structure hasn’t been inspected yet, but I plan to do so soon. This work was completed fairly recently.
The way weight is distributed over a load bearing wall footing is not the same as how it’s distributed over a column on that same footing. Different design means different distribution. It’s like comparing a flat shoe to a high heel shoe on the same surface.
When I tackled mine, I raised the floor and dug a hole, etc. Used rebar. Also, it should be pinned. I doubt it will move, but it’s a fundamental technique.
In your initial post you mentioned a load-bearing wall; now it turns out it was actually an LVL that was spread?
That’s a great approach!
I’ve always said “footings” instead of “footers.”
It’ll probably stay in place, but it’s not considered a foundation. Slabs are usually only 3 or 4 inches thick. They may have wire mesh, but typically no rebar. Over time, the slab can become hollow and weakened. Not good.
Have you heard about ‘s footings?
It’s clear that a footer wasn’t poured because the slab wasn’t cut to accommodate it. Proper preparation is key to ensuring stability.
I understand where you’re coming from. I assumed that the slabs would have footings placed strategically in a grid for support. My mistake. I also noticed a lack of anchoring at the base, which is concerning.
We recently had to install a 2 post lift in our garage. We had to remove part of the floor and install a strong 10-12” high tensile strength footing. It’s crucial to have proper support for that much weight.
I noticed that is securely fixed into the concrete, rather than just sitting on top of it. I’m planning to reach out to some engineers to have them inspect it.
Relies on the soil’s bearing capacity.
Hey Dustin, did you happen to check out the photos? You can see three LVL beams stacked in the ceiling instead of the load-bearing wall, with three 2 x 4s on either side.
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Your original description mentioned a ‘load bearing wall’, which essentially transfers weight from the top to the bottom, and then from the bottom to the ground. Depending on the soil’s ability to bear weight, the footing might need to be 24 inches, 30 inches, etc. If you have an LVL spanning between two properly supported ends, why the addition of a column? This introduces a new component, the column, which will bear weight and spread it across the floor. Since concrete floors can move independently from the surrounding footings, any movement in the slab will push up on the LVL. I’m also curious about the reasoning behind the 10″ x 10″ size. Was it an engineer’s decision?
Hey , the frost line also plays a role. If your slab or footing is above the frost line, the footing will heave and push the structure up. Where I am, the frost line is 42″ below grade.
Hey , so is it not footers first and then the floor? How is the post being kept off the floor?
The depth of the frost line is determined by , not the width. The width is determined by soil bearing capacity.
Zach made some changes by removing a bearing wall, putting in an LVL, and adding a column in the middle. Depending on the soil’s bearing capacity, he might not need to do anything to the footing.
Check out IRC R403.
That’s true, but there are still several uncertainties. A concrete slab alone is not a proper footing. I have never come across a 4″ or 5″ thick footing before. While slab on grade foundations do exist, they need to be thick enough. Additionally, it’s not ideal that a 10 x 10 column is now resting on a concrete slab. If an engineer or architect were to inspect this and approve it, then I would trust their expertise.
Most likely has a bracket beneath it
In that case you’d need to remove the slab since there was no footer there previously. Next, you’ll have to excavate the soil and pour a suitable footing up to the level of the slab. After that, install the bracket
That’s true.
I’m here for cosmetic tips. I wouldn’t seek structural guidance on .
Got it. I just wanted to share my concerns based on what I’ve witnessed and gone through. Best of luck.
Could you cover it with a more attractive wood?
Give wood filler a test run in a small spot and wait a few months to see if it cracks as the wood naturally expands and contracts. When sheathing a column, make sure to allow room for movement.
‘t fill the checks and cracks. They will only widen. This is common for cypress, which this seems to be (could be mistaken). If it is cypress, this adds to the appearance. Looks good to me.
I’d be more worried about the lack of a poured footer for that. 😳
A 10×10 green post has been left to dry for approximately 5 years (1″ per year). So expect to see cracking and/or twisting over the next 5 years. Not sure why you chose a 10×10, maybe it was an engineer spec. I would have thought using “redjack3.0″ would have been easier and sufficient. It supports 35000lbs+ and is only a 3×3” post. Like others mentioned, best to wrap it with a 1x. No need to fill it, as it will continue to move and crack, tearing the filler apart. Filler typically doesn’t take stain and you’ll end up with a lot of filler.
Also, non-treated lumber should not be placed directly on concrete. It will absorb moisture and eventually rot. Couldn’t say for sure if yours was placed right on the slab, but just something to consider.
I hate to be that person but you really need to address this. Just by looking at the picture, you can see that only a part of the timber’s base is touching the ground. It’s crucial to have a proper footer and secure it in place. You can’t just place a large 10×10 timber and call it a day. The wood will keep shifting as it dries out more. Also, you can’t have untreated lumber directly on concrete, as it will absorb moisture. It either needs a gasket or should be treated.
Why do you think it was installed when it was still green?
I think it’s pretty common for green lumber not to shrink lengthwise but more so in width. When building log homes, all the lumber used is typically green. Even the fancy columns in front of houses are made from green lumber. They might let it air dry for a few months before using it, but it’s rarely kiln-dried.
No need for filler. The splits may continue to expand over the years. It’s common and doesn’t impact the structural integrity. You can sand and stain it if desired. Alternatively, you could cover it with wrap.
Sometimes we’ll put in cedar posts on porches for . It’s not the best option though, because a lot of customers just can’t get over the cracks and keep asking for a “fresh post.”
It’s true, some individuals really don’t appreciate the beauty of traditional wood posts!
Consider covering it with an additional board to conceal the splits
Add a 1×10 as a top layer
Try wrapping it with vertical 45-degree miter joints using your favorite type of wood.
Oh wow, I feel bad about how random the post looks in the room, but I’m sure we can find a solution!
OMG, why doesn’t it have a footer?
You could either sand and finish it, or simply install drywall around it.
I would trim the top and bottom slightly and then paint it white
I’m planning on trimming it out eventually, both at the top and bottom. I’ll refinish it after.
We actually have something quite similar. We took down a wall with a similar snow load because I’m in Montana. My husband crafted the oak beams and pillars. We stained it with an oil-based stain 3 years ago.
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He actually planed these beams 10 years ago, so they were already dry when we installed them
I really hope that isn’t resting directly on the concrete
Hey , it’s fastened with a post bracket, not directly on concrete.
It’s frustrating when people seek help after completing a project. It’s always best to ask for guidance beforehand. Ensure there is no footer and that the Kd is touching the slab, and that there is proper fastening to the floor. Address any issues with post quality before finishing the project. ‘t forget about installing missing joist hangers.
It appears there may be a few issues. Was a footing placed beneath the concrete for the new 10 x 10 x 10 post?
‘t stress too much about the appearance of the post, as long as it provides support and prevents the house from sagging. You could always add a premium finish to the outside of the 10 x 10 post.
For cosmetic purposes, I would sand and repaint. However, structurally speaking, it is crucial to address the footing issue – as the wood will keep drying and cracking, without a solid footing, there is no assurance of even weight distribution. Given the continuous weight load, any cracks or movement in a support beam could be quite impactful.
‘s level is helping carry most of the load. Three 2x4s standing vertically on either side.