How can I fix the appearance of my new post after it dried out and now looks awful, potentially requiring more work than anticipated?
Asked by Ramses Ozuna 
8 months ago
Last Updated: May 4, 2024
So we had this wall taken out and put in this big 10 inch by 10 inch post to support everything. The post is drying now and it’s not looking so great. I was thinking of letting it dry, then sanding and staining it, but it might need more than that. It looked awesome before it dried. Any ideas on how to fix it? Any help would be really appreciated.
Make sure to use plenty of wood filler! Then, sand it down
Was it a green piece of timber?
Regardless, there isn’t a foolproof method to repair checking in stain-grade finishes.
Using wood filler may lead to cracks.
If you desire that aesthetic, consider wrapping it with a wood column instead. (Using kiln-dried lumber)
Green timber refers to freshly cut timber that still contains natural moisture, preventing warping and cracking by watering it at the mill using sprinkler systems. The wood needs time to dry out before installation, with thicker pieces taking longer.
When buying expensive trim wood or finished planks from molding aisles in stores, they are often kiln-dried in giant ovens to reduce warping or twisting, but they come at a higher cost.
For large supports, some opt to use iron round posts wrapped with dried expensive wood to create the appearance of solid posts, primarily for outdoor use.
Consider staining it to match the color of the table and blend it with the room. The cracks will add character, making it a focal point of the room
You have the option to stain it and embrace the natural rustic look of the wood, or use dry 1 by to create a decorative piece
Is the 10×10 secured to the floor and beam? Was a footer used during installation? Has there been any shrinkage with the drying process? If everything is solid and there haven’t been any changes, you could embrace the rustic look and give it a more distressed appearance. You might want to sand it a bit beforehand to avoid splinters.
A solid footing is necessary for the post to support the weight.
This! I recently added a beam in my house and had to pour footers for the supports.
Hey, as an architect, it really bothers me when I see a post without a footing 😂
I’m not an architect, but I understand the concern about the frost affecting the foundation.
How is the slab itself NOT considered the footing? Doesn’t it help distribute the weight of the post across a larger area, essentially serving as the footing? Even if it’s not directly on the slab, it still acts as a footing rather than just soft earth. I’m not sure what else would be expected in terms of design.
Because the slab alone isn’t thick enough to support the weight of the column, it could potentially crack and settle. The footings around the perimeter and columns are 10-12” thick, while the slab is only 5-6”. Footings also help prevent sinking and settling by reaching the frost line. I also don’t see a proper method of attaching the column to the ground, which could cause movement. If there is ground movement, especially in a seismic zone or unknown soil type, it’s something to be cautious of.
A 4-inch thick slab may not be substantial enough to serve as a proper footer, .
Hey , how did you determine that there is no footer? From the image, it seems like there’s only a half-inch gap at the base.
Hey, I’m , an architect who also has concerns about the lack of footing. That slab is bound to develop cracks eventually.
I see your point, but my assumption is that if a load bearing wall was removed, there should be a footing running under the entire length of the wall. It seems like some patchwork has been done here, so that could be the situation in this case.
The majority of the support comes from the lvl beam spanning across to a few 2x4s standing on end. The structure hasn’t been inspected yet, but I plan to do so soon. This work was completed fairly recently.
The way weight is distributed over a load bearing wall footing is not the same as how it’s distributed over a column on that same footing. Different design means different distribution. It’s like comparing a flat shoe to a high heel shoe on the same surface.
When I tackled mine, I raised the floor and dug a hole, etc. Used rebar. Also, it should be pinned. I doubt it will move, but it’s a fundamental technique.
In your initial post you mentioned a load-bearing wall; now it turns out it was actually an LVL that was spread?
That’s a great approach!
I’ve always said “footings” instead of “footers.”
It’ll probably stay in place, but it’s not considered a foundation. Slabs are usually only 3 or 4 inches thick. They may have wire mesh, but typically no rebar. Over time, the slab can become hollow and weakened. Not good.
Have you heard about ‘s footings?
It’s clear that a footer wasn’t poured because the slab wasn’t cut to accommodate it. Proper preparation is key to ensuring stability.
I understand where you’re coming from. I assumed that the slabs would have footings placed strategically in a grid for support. My mistake. I also noticed a lack of anchoring at the base, which is concerning.
We recently had to install a 2 post lift in our garage. We had to remove part of the floor and install a strong 10-12” high tensile strength footing. It’s crucial to have proper support for that much weight.
I noticed that is securely fixed into the concrete, rather than just sitting on top of it. I’m planning to reach out to some engineers to have them inspect it.
Relies on the soil’s bearing capacity.
Hey Dustin, did you happen to check out the photos? You can see three LVL beams stacked in the ceiling instead of the load-bearing wall, with three 2 x 4s on either side.
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Your original description mentioned a ‘load bearing wall’, which essentially transfers weight from the top to the bottom, and then from the bottom to the ground. Depending on the soil’s ability to bear weight, the footing might need to be 24 inches, 30 inches, etc. If you have an LVL spanning between two properly supported ends, why the addition of a column? This introduces a new component, the column, which will bear weight and spread it across the floor. Since concrete floors can move independently from the surrounding footings, any movement in the slab will push up on the LVL. I’m also curious about the reasoning behind the 10″ x 10″ size. Was it an engineer’s decision?
Hey , the frost line also plays a role. If your slab or footing is above the frost line, the footing will heave and push the structure up. Where I am, the frost line is 42″ below grade.
Hey , so is it not footers first and then the floor? How is the post being kept off the floor?
The depth of the frost line is determined by , not the width. The width is determined by soil bearing capacity.
Zach made some changes by removing a bearing wall, putting in an LVL, and adding a column in the middle. Depending on the soil’s bearing capacity, he might not need to do anything to the footing.
Check out IRC R403.
That’s true, but there are still several uncertainties. A concrete slab alone is not a proper footing. I have never come across a 4″ or 5″ thick footing before. While slab on grade foundations do exist, they need to be thick enough. Additionally, it’s not ideal that a 10 x 10 column is now resting on a concrete slab. If an engineer or architect were to inspect this and approve it, then I would trust their expertise.
Most likely has a bracket beneath it
In that case you’d need to remove the slab since there was no footer there previously. Next, you’ll have to excavate the soil and pour a suitable footing up to the level of the slab. After that, install the bracket
That’s true.
I’m here for cosmetic tips. I wouldn’t seek structural guidance on .
Got it. I just wanted to share my concerns based on what I’ve witnessed and gone through. Best of luck.
‘s slab on grade construction still involves footings, typically deeper sections poured in one go.
Questioning having an architect approve structural designs, it might be more appropriate to involve a structural PE for such matters.
Could you cover it with a more attractive wood?
Give wood filler a test run in a small spot and wait a few months to see if it cracks as the wood naturally expands and contracts. When sheathing a column, make sure to allow room for movement.
‘t fill the checks and cracks. They will only widen. This is common for cypress, which this seems to be (could be mistaken). If it is cypress, this adds to the appearance. Looks good to me.
I’d be more worried about the lack of a poured footer for that. 😳
A 10×10 green post has been left to dry for approximately 5 years (1″ per year). So expect to see cracking and/or twisting over the next 5 years. Not sure why you chose a 10×10, maybe it was an engineer spec. I would have thought using “redjack3.0″ would have been easier and sufficient. It supports 35000lbs+ and is only a 3×3” post. Like others mentioned, best to wrap it with a 1x. No need to fill it, as it will continue to move and crack, tearing the filler apart. Filler typically doesn’t take stain and you’ll end up with a lot of filler.
Also, non-treated lumber should not be placed directly on concrete. It will absorb moisture and eventually rot. Couldn’t say for sure if yours was placed right on the slab, but just something to consider.
I hate to be that person but you really need to address this. Just by looking at the picture, you can see that only a part of the timber’s base is touching the ground. It’s crucial to have a proper footer and secure it in place. You can’t just place a large 10×10 timber and call it a day. The wood will keep shifting as it dries out more. Also, you can’t have untreated lumber directly on concrete, as it will absorb moisture. It either needs a gasket or should be treated.
Why do you think it was installed when it was still green?
I think it’s pretty common for green lumber not to shrink lengthwise but more so in width. When building log homes, all the lumber used is typically green. Even the fancy columns in front of houses are made from green lumber. They might let it air dry for a few months before using it, but it’s rarely kiln-dried.
No need for filler. The splits may continue to expand over the years. It’s common and doesn’t impact the structural integrity. You can sand and stain it if desired. Alternatively, you could cover it with wrap.
Sometimes we’ll put in cedar posts on porches for . It’s not the best option though, because a lot of customers just can’t get over the cracks and keep asking for a “fresh post.”
It’s true, some individuals really don’t appreciate the beauty of traditional wood posts!
Consider covering it with an additional board to conceal the splits
Add a 1×10 as a top layer
Try wrapping it with vertical 45-degree miter joints using your favorite type of wood.
Oh wow, I feel bad about how random the post looks in the room, but I’m sure we can find a solution!
Might’ve noticed the difference if she had seen it earlier. Maybe it would make more sense to you then. 🤷🏼♂️
I have no doubt about it!
OMG, why doesn’t it have a footer?
You could either sand and finish it, or simply install drywall around it.
I would trim the top and bottom slightly and then paint it white
I’m planning on trimming it out eventually, both at the top and bottom. I’ll refinish it after.
We actually have something quite similar. We took down a wall with a similar snow load because I’m in Montana. My husband crafted the oak beams and pillars. We stained it with an oil-based stain 3 years ago.
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He actually planed these beams 10 years ago, so they were already dry when we installed them
I really hope that isn’t resting directly on the concrete
Hey , it’s fastened with a post bracket, not directly on concrete.
It’s frustrating when people seek help after completing a project. It’s always best to ask for guidance beforehand. Ensure there is no footer and that the Kd is touching the slab, and that there is proper fastening to the floor. Address any issues with post quality before finishing the project. ‘t forget about installing missing joist hangers.
Hey , I never asked for structural advice here. It seems like half the people commenting are getting off track and not answering the question.
If you’re not planning on swapping out the post, I suggest going for a more rustic appearance. Sand it, apply stain, and then add a coat of polyurethane
Hey, that picture was taken by before the hangers were fully installed
By the way, it’s 1 inch above the floor with a post fastener
Zach, it seems like you started putting the hangers on the left first, took down the temporary wall, but haven’t gotten to the right side yet. ‘t worry about the negative comments. The point about the footing is actually valid. It looks like there might be a foundation wall in the middle. Can you confirm if that’s the case?
Brought 3 levels up into the attic for support.
I’m talking about the slab. In the photo, it appears that there is an old slab on the left and a new one on the right. Maybe there is a foundation wall on a footing running along where you took out the load-bearing wall. It seems like all these expert comments are overlooking the fact that you removed a load-bearing wall that was already there. I can’t imagine the original structure had a load-bearing wall just sitting on the slab to begin with…I’ve never seen that before. It was likely resting on a foundation wall and footing.
Can you take a look at this picture and let me know what you notice? It looks like he removed a load-bearing wall that was supporting the slab. How many load-bearing walls do you see on the slab now? There’s probably a foundation wall and footing underneath it.
The post is right where the original load wall used to be. I don’t know how they pour slabs, but you can definitely see the line. It’s especially noticeable on the other side of the post in the picture you edited with arrows.
Sure thing! Here is the revised text:
There’s a distinction between a load bearing wall and a lally column sitting on a footer. Go back up and you’ll find a structural engineer’s explanation of the discrepancy.
: I found it for you.
, the way a load bearing wall distributes weight is not the same as how a column distributes weight over that wall footing. Different designs mean different weight distributions. It’s like comparing a regular shoe standing on a surface to the heel of a high heel shoe on that same surface.
: True, but when was the last time you saw an engineer recommend digging new footings for removing a load bearing wall? Hardly ever. They usually specify end post sizes and materials.
If there’s still a gap, consider adding a 1×6 base trim made of similar wood and look to all four sides at the bottom of the post.
I’ll remember that. Thanks for the suggestion!
It appears there may be a few issues. Was a footing placed beneath the concrete for the new 10 x 10 x 10 post?
‘t stress too much about the appearance of the post, as long as it provides support and prevents the house from sagging. You could always add a premium finish to the outside of the 10 x 10 post.
For cosmetic purposes, I would sand and repaint. However, structurally speaking, it is crucial to address the footing issue – as the wood will keep drying and cracking, without a solid footing, there is no assurance of even weight distribution. Given the continuous weight load, any cracks or movement in a support beam could be quite impactful.
‘s level is helping carry most of the load. Three 2x4s standing vertically on either side.
I’m curious about the length of the span. I recently used 19′ with 3) 1 3/4”x14” lvls and a 1”x12” plate, all supported by 4 2×4’s on each end. Personally, I think it may be a bit over engineered.
I think is 22 years old. Do you have any pictures of your project? I’m curious to check it out.
Did a structural engineer approve the removal of the wall and installation of one post to support the beam? Consider adding more posts with proper footers for added support.
Come on, , he just inquired about the appearance of it. Relax, dear! 😁😂
Add some trim to enhance its appearance. It will look nice temporarily, but eventually, the ceiling will come down.
If you’re planning to keep this beam, consider enhancing its character cosmetically. You could apply a stain and then a wash or glaze to accentuate its irregularities, which complements many modern decor styles. For a cleaner, more modern look, adding trim or sealing cracks with spackling or compound could give it a smooth finish. Alternatively, metal cladding could provide an industrial aesthetic, but consider the need for ventilation or protection for the wood. Another option is using furniture grade lumber or a hardwood slab for a cleaner wood texture, or having a decorative hardwood pattern laminated onto the trim.
Personally, I think it would look nice to stain in a color that matches your table, then add a wash or glaze in a darker color to highlight the imperfections. One major design concern I notice is that the beam is a cooler shade of wood while your decor and floor feature warmer woods.
And because it’s a structural issue, I think it’s safe to round or distress the corners for aesthetics, but it’s best to consult with a structural engineer first 🙂
My suggestion would be to trim the bottom and maybe the top. I’d use a belt sander to round the edges a bit. Still waiting to confirm if it’s safe. The post doesn’t bear the full weight, as the Lvl was incorporated into attic joists that span less than 15 feet from wall to wall. So there are 3 support points, not just the post.
Hey, I heard that even making small notches in structural beams can weaken them, so it’s best to consult with an engineer. But for looks, adding a bit of stain and giving it a wash could really complement your current decor
Mentioned trim… like baseboard
Hey , yup, you have the option of using Mdf, plaster, or real wood. Real wood can be wider and allow for mitered corners with minimal seams. I have butt joints on my patio beams and they are hardly noticeable.
Skin the cabinet grade plywood for a seamless look.
Is kidding? 😂😂😂
Stop staring at it! 😊 It’s all-natural and it looks fantastic! Take your time, leave it be, and focus on finishing everything else. Later on, you can re-evaluate. 😊👍🏻
I actually have a close friend who suggested letting it dry out more and working on it next year. But right now, I’m just looking for some guidance on what to do when the time comes. It will definitely need a good sanding and probably a stain of some sort. After I finish redoing all the trim in the house, I’ll add a baseboard at the bottom.
I totally agree with the idea of simply leaving it 😊👍🏻
Consider two options: Wrap it with finished boarding or use thin straps of similar wood to fill and hammer into the cracks.
I constructed it around my load-bearing post and turned it into an electric fireplace.
Now that’s an interesting concept!
Stainable wood filler?
My contractor, , actually suggested that to me. I might consider it once it dries out a bit more.
You could consider adding shiplap or a creative wrap using cord/rope or a mix of both.
Changes to the wood are pretty common as wood adjusts to its new environment; even if it was previously dried. The size of your post is the main reason why it wasn’t completely dry before installation and there will probably be more changes in appearance as the post adapts for at least a year after installation, maybe even longer. Any finishing you apply now should consider the ongoing drying process.
Based on what you’ve shared in your original post and responses to other comments, it seems like you’d prefer not to paint the post. I get it, it’s got some nice grain character. Painting would be the simplest option and if you decide to do that, maybe try a paint wash – like whitewash; but I personally would go for a dark brown or black to bring out the grain and knots.
If painting isn’t your thing, you could go for an oil finish like boiled linseed oil. This would enhance the current wood, give it a bit of an amber hue, and help prevent further drying and cracking as it dries. After the oil has dried (about 10 days), you could apply a topcoat sealer like polyurethane or lacquer. Alternatively, you could choose to oil it every few years, similar to how some people maintain decks.
I don’t think you necessarily have to sand unless you want to.
If staining is your preference, go for it, but consider using a water-based stain since there’s a high moisture level involved.
If the cracking from drying is quite severe, you might need to think about reinforcing the beam. You could drill through and insert dowels or bolts as necessary. Personally, I’d opt for black bolts to give it an industrial look.
There are plenty of wood finishing options available to make this work. Best of luck!
Really nailed it with that comment! I appreciate the detailed response. I’ll take all of your suggestions into account.
Encase it in your preferred wood and then choose whether to stain or paint it.
I believe that by staining it, the cracks will give it a weathered beam appearance. You might just end up falling in love with it. Your rustic table and benches should complement it very nicely! 😊
Wood’s beauty lies in its imperfections.
I would either add some nice trim to the top and bottom or simply use a 1×4 for a more minimalist look. You could also experiment with mineral oil or hemp oil and take some before and after photos
Wrap it up
For a more polished appearance, consider trimming the top and bottom with 1×6 boards. A transparent stain like Wood Defender Oxford Brown could work well to match the color of your table and benches, although it might have a strong smell.
Apply Drydex, sand it down, and then paint it.
I might cover it with plywood and add some finishing touches, similar to this design.