How can I fix permanent marker bleeding through primer on my new cabinet doors without using Kilz or Zinser?
I’m new to DIY projects, so please go easy on me!
So, we attempted to create some new MDF shaker cabinet doors for the first time. Turns out, using permanent marker on them wasn’t the best idea! We recently primed them with BIN Shellac primer and the marker bled right through. Any suggestions on how we can fix this?
We haven’t tried painting over them with the regular paint we bought yet. My significant other is crossing their fingers that simply painting over the marker will do the trick.
Update: Big thanks to everyone for the suggestions, I really appreciate it! We tested out some of the paint we have on one of the doors where the writing was, and it looks like it covered it up pretty well. Going to wait for it to dry and see what happens. I’ve seen a lot of recommendations for Kilz or Zinser, so we’ll give one of those a shot if the paint alone doesn’t do the trick!
I suggest giving Kilz primer or maybe Zinser a try…
Try Zinger oil-based primer. It’s unpleasant and smelly, but it should cover it up. In any case, you’ll need at least 2 top coats of your paint color
Maybe it would have been better to mark the back side. I usually use blue or frog tape for marking. I’m not sure if the trim and door paint will cover it. Why not test it on one of the smaller doors first. Worst-case scenario, you might have to repaint it.
I believe you intended to say Zinser. Stupid autocorrect.
Have you attempted to sand it down? Even just a little?
Rab a can of oil-based Kilz spray. It’s super easy to apply. Just paint over it and you won’t see it bleed through again.
BIN is the way to go, just make sure to shake it well. Two coats of regular paint should do the trick
I believe in sanding, priming, and painting. ‘t forget to use high-quality paint
I suggest using Bullseye Zinsser Stain Blocker
Covered marker spots with a dark color, like black, then painted over it – works like a charm! I’ve painted over plenty of murals in my time, haha
Start by sanding first, then use the original oil-based Kilz. Repeat if necessary.
The original oil-based Kilz is really impressive. However, Sharpies can be tough on it. I’d avoid using them in construction, in my opinion.
When you’ve got a good primer on, try using sticky notes to label the doors
Sherwin Williams Pro Block is top-notch
BIN primer contains alcohol as a solvent. It’s the right choice for types of wood like pine that contain a lot of tannins, but you could have used an oil or acrylic primer on MDF instead. The alcohol reacts with the sharpie. Oil might have a similar effect. Try using a stain-blocking acrylic primer on those areas.
Ric Diato it involves the use of methylated spirits……there’s a slight distinction from actual alcohol……
Denatured alcohol is also known as methylated spirits. They usually refer to it as shorthand alcohol or meths.
Ently sand the marker stain, apply a coat of Kilz primer, spot prime the area, let it dry, then use a finger roller to paint the cabinet doors. Finger rollers work great for cabinets as they apply paint thick and evenly.
BIN sealer shouldn’t be too runny… it seems like you may not have mixed it well… when applied correctly, BIN sealer typically adheres to any surface and covers stains/markers effectively.
Unibond PVA can double as a primer and will definitely cover marker pen stains.
Certain stain-blocking primers may be slightly transparent, but they will prevent the marker from bleeding through the final paint color. Test it out on a small or less noticeable area to see if it works.
You might have to give it a few taps to make sure. Using BIN should do the trick. Remember not to write on the doors again!
During the first coat of primer, it’s common for things to show through. Apply two more coats in between, and sand. If it still shows through, prime and sand again. I usually place a number right where the hinge will be installed to identify the door, and I keep a reference sheet for each door. I used to have some heavy brass tacks with raised letters/numbers for identification, but unfortunately, I can’t find them to show you. This system helps keep things organized, especially if you need to take a break for a few days and remember where you left off, especially if a door requires something extra or a different hinge placement.
The Kilz original in the black can should work quite well.
You could try using a magic eraser, sanding, and then priming with Kilz. Kilz is formulated to help with penetrating stains.
I would lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper. You’ll need to do this between each coat of paint for the best results.
You should sand and recoat regardless, but if it shows through the second coat, you might have to apply some Coverstain or Kilz Original where it bleeds. I believe Coverstain comes in a spray can, which is super convenient. By the way, your primer needs to be smooth as glass before painting. Any texture or imperfections will be visible in the paint (which should be urethane or polyurethane paint). Also, ensure there are no sharp edges, as paint won’t adhere well to sharp edges. Consider joining the Kitchen Cabinet Painting Experts group for professional advice and guides on the entire process.
Apply Kilz as a solution
Consider using KILZ
Try using a magic eraser
A few layers of BIN should do the trick. Always go for pencil.
You might want to expect that it will continue bleeding through. Sand down the center panel as best as you can and seal the ink well. It’s better than receiving a call back in a few months
If you happen to have an orbital sander with 200ish grit sandpaper, I’d recommend giving it a light sanding first. Just be careful not to go too deep. If that doesn’t work, Zinser oil-based primer is a great option that covers anything and lasts a long time.
To remove markers, try using rubbing alcohol. The stronger the alcohol, the easier it will be. It might take a few tries. Just a tip for next time: use a pencil ✏️
Applying a couple of coats of BIN primer should do the trick and cover it up.
Regular paint will adhere much better. Just remember to lightly sand by hand with a 220 grit to smooth out any bumps or drips. Sand between each coat of primer and paint.
Hey, are you positive that the BIN shellac was thoroughly mixed? I’ve never experienced it being watery before.