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How can I fix a squeaky shower base that was installed incorrectly without ripping it out, considering cost constraints and limited access to the subfloor?

Asked by Isla Salmi
2 weeks ago
Last Updated: November 5, 2024

Hey there, so I kinda messed up and could really use some advice from those in the know. I installed a shower from scratch and it turned out really nice. I followed the instructions for the base, laid down a bed of sand mix mortar, leveled it, and let it set for a few days. Everything seemed solid so I finished the rest – cement board, tile, shower door. We started using the shower and were thrilled with it. All was good for about a week until… it started squeaking underfoot. I was devastated. The base doesn’t have much movement at all. I think maybe I didn’t apply enough pressure when installing it, or maybe didn’t use enough mortar in a certain spot (I left it a bit thinner near the drain for leveling). Removing it isn’t really an option because it would be too expensive – money I don’t have. I can look up and see the subfloor from underneath in the basement. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I’ve read online about using spray foam or adding more cement, but it seems like those solutions are usually for people with better access. I’m not sure how that would work in my situation. Can anyone offer some advice? 😢

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Celine Freitas

My suggestion would be to use spray foam. You could try drilling from the basement beneath the area that is shifting and applying the foam. I recommend using the type that expands to fill larger gaps. Just be cautious not to drill into the tub.

Ömür Alpuğan

Is planning to compress further

Lærke Thomsen

Which waterproofing method did you apply to the floors and walls?

Lærke Thomsen

Anonymous contributor questioning about the floors. How were they connected to the walls? This is crucial. Floor mortar hardens significantly, with minimal water.

Vernon Mason

Anonymous contributor asking about waterproofing the floor?

Christopher Barnes

Wait, are you saying the floor needs to be completely watertight because it collects all the water?

Tanya Welch

I believe they may have used a shower base that is not tiled 🤷🏼‍♀️

Ömür Alpuğan

Consider using fiber shims in any gaps where they can be placed.

Tarak Nagane

If everything looks good with your shower base and drain fitting, a little flexing shouldn’t be a problem. It might actually be normal for the shower pan. You could also try adding plastic shims for better support along the ribs underneath. It can be tricky to do this after the pan is already installed, but you might be able to access the bottom of the shower pan from underneath. Make sure to use plastic shims to prevent wood rot. You might find it best to just leave it as it is.

Tarak Nagane

Hey, does it squeak when you walk on it? I bet that sound can be pretty annoying.

Tarak Nagane

I understand. Overall, it looks like you all did a great job and it should last for many years! 😊

Terry May

I’ve got a couple of issues to address. First, we need to address the squeaks coming from the movement in the subfloor to prevent any potential failure points and leaks. Secondly, we need to make sure the floor and walls are properly waterproofed to avoid water damage and mold. Anything less than removing and reinstalling won’t provide a permanent solution.

Terry May

Hey there! It’s crucial to waterproof both the walls and the floor. Do you know what your subfloor is made of? Can you provide details about the material and thickness for better understanding?

Terry May

Hey, that’s pretty interesting! Sounds like there should be enough support for the weight. One thing to consider is making sure to decouple the concrete from the wood. If either of them moves due to expansion or contraction, you might start hearing noises. This could also lead to cracking over time, so it’s something to keep in mind. Have you thought about adding cross blocking under the shower floor to prevent the squeaking? Adding blocking between the joints under the shower floor, especially in the front, back, and maybe the middle, could help. Make sure to use blocks made of the same material as your joists. Tight fit them between the joists, use a jack to secure them to the subfloor, and nail them off. This should help distribute the weight of the concrete pan, reduce squeaking, and minimize movement. If the squeak is coming from the two layers of subfloor not being glued together, this should help. What size are your joists? Are they 2×10 or 2×12? If they’re 2×8, consider adding another 2×8 for extra support under the shower area. Also, make sure to seal the shower floor, especially the grout, with a water sealer to prevent water from seeping into the concrete. Remember to reapply this surface application from time to time. These are some solutions to consider before resorting to a complete overhaul.

Terry May

In my opinion, if I were an anonymous participant with 2x6s, I would definitely sister another 2×6 and add some blocking for extra support. Best of luck!

Eleonora Bezkorovayniy

If you happen to have access underneath, you could try attaching 1×4 ribs to the wood floor and reinforcing them along your floor joists. Good luck!

Raphael Roche

If the shower is in a new spot (not replacing an old one), check if any pipes, especially the drain pipe, pass through new holes in the joists. If not, did you replace any pipes? Can you see anything from below when someone steps into the shower? New pipes attached to the underside of joists can cause squeaking. Some movement is normal, but excessive movement can cause issues. In simple terms, has anything changed besides the new shower? That’s a good place to start investigating.

Davi Freitas

When I’m working on a shower pan, I make sure both stages are sloped to drain, not level. In between the two stages, there’s a waterproof membrane. What kind of joists do you have? Is this a new construction? How far apart are the joists? What size are the joists? Did you secure the joists properly in that area? What type of floor sheathing did you use? Was it T&G? Maybe think about adding plywood underneath to strengthen the floor. You could glue and screw it from below.

Davi Freitas

Oh, using tongue and groove OSB on the subfloor? That’s actually really good. Did you end up gluing the OSB down? If not, it might move a bit on the subfloor but I don’t think you’ll have any major issues. Adding more underneath probably won’t make much of a difference. Maybe it’s time to get some more feedback on this. Also, having both OSB and self-leveler under the shower is interesting. I would have chosen just one material for consistency.

Justin Chow

Was a waterproof membrane utilized in the project? If not, there may be water seepage into the floor.

Jackson Parker

I’m a bit confused by your post and comments. Did you actually place cement board on top of your mortar bed? That’s not the correct way to do it.

Yolanda Garica

Why not try replacing some of the components with epoxy products? You can experiment with pouring a clear epoxy adhesive into any cracks that may be forming. If the problem persists, consider pouring a new base layer over the top using epoxy-based products. You might also want to look into epoxy drain expansions.

Tanya Welch

Can you share a photo of the completed shower floor? How about some pictures of the work in progress?

Tanya Welch

Hey there, thanks a lot. I think some of the people who responded assumed your shower floor was tiled as well. If you haven’t already, I would recommend adding wood blocking and bracing under the floor from below. I had to do the same thing in my previous house.

Francisca Carmona

Spray some foam underneath there

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