How can I efficiently remove the wire mesh and thick mortar bed from the tile around my tub?
Asked by Brittany Ross 
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 9, 2024
The tile surrounding my bathtub has a wire mesh and thick mortar. Any suggestions on the best way to remove it?
Time and effort.. 🤦♂️ if you’re okay with the mess or have someone to hold a vacuum to suck dust.. I prefer using a diamond wheel. It really gets the job done, but there’s a lot of dust.
Oh yeah, I was considering using a sawzall and cutting the Sheetrock around it since I’m replacing it all as well
I used a Bosch demo hammer with a flat blade. I’d steer clear of using a grinder. The abrasive dust gets everywhere.
Around the 1950s, right? It would’ve been nice to have a bit more of the picture. If the photo reveals what was beneath the tiles, they usually applied concrete on expanded metal mesh as the base. For plaster walls, similar concept, but with plaster and aggregate as the base coats. Usually, a scratch coat was applied to go through the mesh and sag slightly, locking it in place, about a quarter-inch thick on the exterior. When partially dried, the material was scratched with a coarse comb for a good lock for the next coat.
I’d chip the material away from the studs until you locate a seam in the metal lath. Use a crowbar to pry it up until one edge is free. Peel it back to the next stud, which you should be able to access from behind to remove the mesh from the stud.
This assumes wooden studs, but sometimes the wall framing is black iron. If the latter, it’s a different scenario. I’ve never torn down one of those walls and can’t remember exactly how the mesh is attached.
It’s messy, whichever way. Safety-toe shoes, goggles, respirator, and sturdy gloves. Secure a piece of plywood to protect the tub unless you’re taking it out.
I used the same method for mine, including the same tool. It was successful. I even used some wire cutters to remove tough mesh pieces.
The house was constructed in 1967, with concrete connected to an expanded metal mesh.
Back in the 1960s, they were still following that practice, and maybe even later. It requires more effort, but it’s an effective method, showing a strong foundation for construction in general. However, it can be a hassle to take apart.
Yup, from what I’ve seen so far, there are no indications of water behind it. That’s a positive. It’s definitely a hassle to get rid of.
The sawzall is not very effective. It gets really grabby.
When you uncover the mesh, be prepared to cut through it. Make sure to wear strong gloves to protect yourself from getting “bitten”, trust me, I’ve learned from past mistakes. The cutting wheels are effective, but be ready for a lot of dust flying around.
Dang I was hoping there was some shortcut I wasn’t aware of lol. Seems like it just takes time and effort, nothing is ever as simple as it seems.
I renovated a house up in the NC mountains that was constructed back in 1985. The bathrooms all had mud beddings. The first one was quite the project, involving sledge hammers, crow bars, tin snips, and a bit of blood. It took 2 days to strip it down to the studs and subfloor. Luckily, no stitches needed, but plenty of cuts.
The second bathroom was a bit smoother. I was able to lift the floor tile without causing too much damage to the mud bed, then leveled it out and tiled over it. For the tub surround, I sealed off the area and used a composite blade in a skill saw to slice it into 12-inch sections. After that, it was relatively simple to remove, just very dusty. Remember to adjust the blade’s depth to avoid hitting the studs or plumbing.
If it comes apart easily, it wasn’t built well.
Using my angle grinder and cutting wheel was a hassle.
It’s a disaster. You’ll need a sawzaw, pry bars, crowbar. A hammer, maybe a bigger hammer. Face mask if you want to breathe tomorrow. A shop vac. Plenty of trash bags because you can’t make them too heavy. Spread drop cloths everywhere or your house will be a mess… begin by cutting the corners with a sawzaw and continue ripping things out until you have clean studs. There’s no simple or tidy way to do it. It’s a task that has to get messier before it improves
Indeed, it’s a dreadful job no matter how you look at it.
Grab a roofer shovel and begin at the top of the tile. Keep the shovel on the studs as you work your way down, popping the nails as you go across the top. The tiles are typically around one foot wide and the length of the wall. They may be a pain to deal with and heavy, but with a little patience, they can be done easily.
Hey, grab some demo blades for the Sawzall and start cutting. It’s the quickest way to get the job done. If you have a window, pop in a box fan to blow the dust out.
It’s plaster
It’s totally concrete!
For sure it’s concrete, not plaster. 100%
Oh , it’s actually not plaster. Haha!
Put on a mask and get it done all the way to the studs with tin snips, a sawall, and gloves!
Head to Home Depot and grab a few of those people hanging around looking for work. They can get it done fast
That doesn’t sound like a terrible idea haha
You have the option to DIY or invest a couple hundred dollars to avoid back and shoulder pain.
Forget about it. ‘t encourage individuals who enter this country unlawfully. If you want to work here, follow the proper channels.
Let’s show some empathy – they came here seeking a better life, just like our ancestors did. Some of them traveled thousands of miles on foot for that chance. I have respect for anyone who is willing to work hard, no matter where they come from.
Just keep going. Try breaking the tile both horizontally and vertically. Then, cut the wire and remove a 2×2 square at a time. That’s how I tackled it in my bathroom, little by little.
I opted for a hammer drill equipped with a chisel attachment. It seemed to be the most effective choice.
Grinder, crowbars, tin snips. Make sure to wear a long sleeve shirt.
And don’t forget about the safety glasses.
Oh yeah, those are great too. Nice addition. And don’t forget gloves.
‘t forget to wear gloves…trust me, that stuff can really hurt your hands. You’ll need to remove the plaster by breaking it apart and cutting it out.
Create a 2” gap around the tile where it meets the drywall, wear gloves and pull with all your strength, the wire mesh is only stapled in place. I’ve taken apart most bathrooms like this in 4 large sections, folding it in half will cause the mortar to crack and you can use metal snips to cut the wire mesh
Watch out for this, it’s really sharp! I’ve accidentally cut myself many times even when wearing long sleeves
Give it a good tug and remove the wire that will help extract the concrete
Simple
Beer. A whole lot of beer.
I used a diamond blade on a 4 inch grinder to cut it into sections, then peeled it off with a flat bar.
The most powerful tool you can use consistently for several days.
I’m not sure how old or sturdy that mortar is, but I have encountered this situation many times.
1) Grab a regular claw hammer. Break off the mortar carefully without damaging the mesh. Clean up any remaining mortar.
2) Use wire cutters to detach the mesh in small sections. Behind it, you will discover old, rusted studs that held the mesh in place. Remove those as well.
Please avoid using a crowbar to prevent accidentally piercing a water pipe. This task requires pure elbow grease and there’s no other way around it.
Explosives
You could also use it as a cheese grater. Couldn’t help myself, sorry.
Time to bring out the grinder and chisel
Just a heads up, to avoid dust getting all over your house, consider putting up some plastic sheeting as a barrier. It tends to spread everywhere once you start working with it.
I personally demolished mine in small 12×12 pieces using a 6-inch grinder, but make sure you’re not hitting any pipes or wires. If you’re unsure, take your time and use a hammer. It can be tedious and frustrating to bring it down.
Grinder
There’s a bigger attachment for an air hammer that can easily cut through it… just make sure to wear eye protection, a dust mask, and gloves.
The best way is to hire a demolition crew. After 8 hours, all you’ll have left are bare studs and a clean area with no debris. This is definitely not a project for a homeowner to tackle over the weekend. Stop trusting everything you see on HGTV.
Expect a fair amount of swearing. Have some bandages ready and use your strength.
BFH stands for big Fu..ing hammer
Loosen it with a slide and then use a heavy duty pry bar to pry it off. If it’s above your tub and you want to keep it safe, don’t skimp on protection.
I probably should have mentioned a sledge hammer instead.
Pull, cut, pry, pull, cut, pry – and repeat. Been through that.
I just used a hammer.
When I demo a tile shower, I start by cutting around the top of the wall above the tile with the saw, about an inch in. Then I carefully cut out 1-foot or 2×2 square sections of the tile wall and remove them.
Mexican individuals
Using a grinder can be tough. It’s heavy, dirty, and not very fun.
Use a pry bar to get behind the mesh and a grinder
BFH