How can I effectively fill a large gap less than half an inch between Sheetrock pieces without it being a complete disaster in my project?
Asked by Zvenigor Novohatko 
4 months ago
Last Updated: May 21, 2024
Hey, does anyone have any tips for filling in a big gap (less than half an inch) between two pieces of Sheetrock? Would just using mud work? This one is definitely giving me the most trouble out of the whole project! 😂
I prefer using setting type mud (the dry mix in bags) or regular joint compound. Setting type mud is better as it hardens quickly and doesn’t shrink. Regular joint compound works too but takes longer to dry and may shrink. (I have 25 years of experience in drywall work.)
Could you also grab some tape and joint compound?
I’ve applied regular mud on larger gaps before. Will is right though, it might crack on the first coat and take longer to dry. I would recommend applying a couple of coats and making sure to let it dry well in between. The tape should do a good job of hiding it once you have everything finished up. Good luck!
Fill all gaps with Durabond 45.
If you’re sticking with regular mud for the whole project, grab a small 20 bag. Sprinkle some in your hawk with mud, fill, and tape like normal.
Make sure to use backer rod, followed by mudding and taping
Use 20 minute drywall compound for pre-filling, it’s in powder form so you’ll have to mix it.
That’s what I did, .
Fill this out in advance to simplify the process
At a quick glance, I thought it was a rose gold strip! That could be useful.
If you’re looking to fill a gap, a setting-type compound like hot mud is a great option. The setting time doesn’t matter much unless you plan on taping over it immediately.
I tried using setting type hoping it would harden like plaster of Paris, but it ended up being as weak as regular ready made compound. I double checked that it was labeled as “setting type”. Were my expectations off?
I don’t use it much (I prefer old-school methods), but it’s softer than plaster of Paris and a bit harder than regular mud. Plaster of Paris can’t be sanded easily, but setting-type compound can.
As for the old-school technique: make a mud “donut” on a hawk, fill it with water, sift plaster of Paris into the water until it stays dry on top for a few moments, let it sit, then mix. For a larger batch, create a big donut on a board with water and plaster, remove slices, and mix on a hawk. The unmixed portion on the board takes about 15-20 minutes to set. This process resembles making a finish coat with slaked lime and gauging plaster in traditional plastering. Gauging plaster or patching plaster can be used with compound, but plaster of Paris is more commonly found.
I’m not quite sure why, but Easy Sand seems to be dominating the market these days because it’s softer. Durabond, on the other hand, cures much harder – if you’re able to get your hands on it.
The next step involves mudding and taping
Start by using setfast for the initial refill. After that, move on to mudding and taping
You can prefill it with Durabond Easysand 20.
Go ahead and fill in the gap with mud and tape.
I have definitely seen worse.
Pause, step back, grab a gas can, return, and then carefully disperse the gas before lighting a match and running away.
My professional subcontractor would use his custom hot mud mix on site, a white fix-all mixed with topping mud. They only use mesh tape with this type of mud, and I have read in this group that others do the same. So maybe paper tape doesn’t absorb enough water to bond or something. But you can definitely fill it, let it dry, then tape and coat until it’s smooth.
Fill with Con-fill.
Is that ‘s name?
I came across a situation like this at my kids’ place. There was a crack running the entire height of the wall. After clearing it out, this is what remained – a gap that wouldn’t have been easy to tape and mud. I simply cut a piece of drywall to fill it.
For a simple fix, use 20 or 45 minute setting compound first, followed by regular compound. Apply tape, three coats, and then sand it smooth.
Hmm, maybe tape it up and then apply mud over it.
Try using fiberglass mesh tape, go for a double width if possible.
Fixing Sheetrock gaps can be a bit tricky, but no worries, we’ve got your back. For small gaps, less than half an inch, get some joint compound (mud) and tape. Apply generously, feather the edges with a wide putty knife, add tape, another coat of mud, and sand it smooth once dry. It may take a few layers, but be patient – you’ve got this! 🛠️
Durabond
Fibre mesh tape is specifically designed for this purpose.
No packing needed?
Easy peasy! Fill in the gap with hot mud 45. Grab a 4 or 6 inch blade, apply the hot mud, and smooth it out. Let it sit for an hour to dry. After that, use paper tape to tape the joint just like you would with any other butt joint.
I’ve personally used traditional drywall mud and tape to fill gaps. I made sure to fill the gaps generously before applying the tape. I also experimented with fibreglass tape, but the final result wasn’t as smooth.
No need for anything fancy, just stick to mud and tape as usual. It’s not a huge gap anyway.
For big cracks, consider using hot mud as it doesn’t shrink like regular mud.
Definitely go with Durabond 90 to fill this. For the last two coats, you can switch to the same finishing mud everyone else uses for the whole job.
Normally, I’d just use mud and tape for something like that. But recently, my team has been using non-expanding foam fill to fill large gaps, and it’s been effective.