How can I effectively connect a backer piece to the wood on the right without compromising stability in this area?
Asked by Nanna Jensen 
2 months ago
Last Updated: September 13, 2024
I’m trying to patch up this gap next to the light switch. Normally, I’d use a backer piece to help hold up the drywall. The problem is I’m having trouble with the piece of wood on the right. Any ideas on how I can attach the backer piece to it? I attempted to screw it into the wood but it ended up shifting too much. I was thinking maybe I could use longer backer pieces on the side and above with a few screws. It might not be as sturdy, but I don’t need ultra strength in that spot.
Make sure the drywall is square to make it easier to fit a back plate
I’m planning on squaring it away, but for previous patches, I had the space to add a backer on both sides. Unfortunately, the box and side piece of wood it’s mounted on are stopping me from doing that this time.
You can fasten your backer board to the wall stud, Douglas. The side board isn’t necessary at the bottom, but you could opt for the bevel edge of your patch board instead for added strength.
‘t stress yourself out. Give this a try
I considered that option, but since the hole is quite large, I didn’t think it would offer enough support.
The size of these patches is 9”x9”.
I was actually going to suggest this to , but you know how some people and their comments are on here, lol.
Oh yeah, .
It’s a simple process. Just cut it to the right size.
Enlarge the hole between the studs without needing a backer. It’s a simple solution.
If it were up to me, I’d take out the box and make everything square. Then, I’d install a new box.
Enlarge the square and use half of the stud
Or just the entire stud, if there isn’t a seam. The current Sheetrock should hold up fine.
Is it only 1/4 inch thick drywall?
Seriously, it’s 3/8 lol – what a joke. The house was built in 1960. Using 1/2” drywall for a patch just ends up looking terrible. We actually hired a drywall guy to fix other areas with 1/2” and you can still see the bump 🙄
No kidding, it was a simple fix! All you had to do was measure 3/4 inch from the edge of the wood, draw a straight line, then use a utility knife to cut the drywall off the stud. Problem solved! Alternatively, you could add a piece of wood to the problematic area and voila, problem solved.
Seriously, the way the drywall is installed here is laughable. I ended up cutting into the stud and using a single backer piece, which made it nice and sturdy.
???
Assuming the box is connected to the stud on the right. Grab some small wood scraps, even paint sticks will do. Use a short drywall screw to connect sticks to the back of the drywall at an angle. Then, apply joint compound to fill the hole. Let it dry for 24 hours, fill it again, let it dry, sand it smooth, add texture if desired. Drywall mud can be applied all around the box, it won’t cause any harm.
Installing a backer should be a piece of cake! Just size it to the full depth of the member it’s attaching to, start the screw at a slight angle, and make sure it’s positioned so you can easily reach it to finish fastening.
Try using an oscillating tool to create a vertical cut on the right side of the outlet. Square up the hole and attach a furring strip on the left side for screwing into, while utilizing the exposed 2×4 on the right side. Aim to mimic the wall texture as closely as you can. Best of luck!
Just attach the backer piece to the current drywall and then install your new drywall on top of that. Alternatively, hold the piece you’re trying to screw into the stud slightly raised so that when you screw it in, it will be flush. Another option would be to cut out the drywall halfway between the studs, remove a section up to the next stud, replace the entire piece, and then tape and float.
I’m leaning towards this option. It allows me to create one backer piece that will be supported by the stud.
That’s definitely the correct way to go about it.
Can you search for a hot patch on Google?
Slice the drywall in front of the 2×4 to reveal half of it. Secure the new drywall piece to the revealed half of the 2×4.
Try drilling holes at an angle or using a kreg pocket drill, then just make sure to keep it flush while screwing it in. You can also attach it to the drywall first to keep it flush before securing it to the stud.
You don’t even need one, a quick solution is to search for blowout patch or California patch!
Just slide a support behind the drywall screw through the drywall into the support screw to patch up the support. It’s okay to not connect the support to the stud, connecting it to the current drywall is sufficient for a hole that size.
Nice, that’s exactly what I was thinking. I usually secure the backer on both sides, but with the back and mud, it should be sturdy enough. I’m not concerned about it getting bumped into.
Great job!
I think it would be better to enlarge the hole to a square shape and then fix it. Simply cut out the stud on both sides
Mentioned …
Create a bigger hole.
Simply enlarge the hole and insert a new piece of wood. It’s a much easier solution than struggling with a small hole.
Screw plywood onto the existing drywall and then attach the patch to it. Fixing a square hole would be simpler.
Slice the drywall vertically down the middle of the stud on either side of the box, and repair it with a large piece.
I completely forgot I had that option. I’m expanding it in size. If you notice, I initially had a rectangular piece cut out and then I accidentally removed more at the top while ‘fixing’ it haha
Simply make the hole larger to uncover the beam.
Cali patch is a good option for fixing small holes.
I personally prefer using ‘drywall clips’.
If you cut a slightly larger hole, you’ll be able to easily slide in the backer.
No need for a backer, try the California patch method, it’s quick and will be ready for painting in 20 minutes
Make the hole large to secure the drywall to the studs
Attach your backer board to the existing drywall by screwing it in…
I recommend using a California patch for the job.
For small areas, I’ve found drywall patches to be very effective. Recently, I made the switch from a two-gang opening to a single one. After placing the patch, I applied several coats of mud with sanding in between. To finish, I added texture and paint. No one could tell the difference. Check out this link for more details: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CLB1QMXF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1