How can I effectively clean my 25-year-old dryer vent, given the potential risks of perforation and uncertain connection to ductwork?
We purchased this apartment a year ago and it seems like the external dryer ventilation hasn’t been cleaned in a really long time. I’m pretty sure it was last renovated about 25 years ago and that’s likely when the dryer vent was added.
I took some pictures to show you what I found. The first one shows the hose connecting the dryer to the wall, and it’s in pretty bad shape. The metal tubing is falling apart and there’s some exposed areas.
The second picture reveals a lot of lint buildup in the hose, about 1-2 inches worth. It’s really clogging up the vent and I can’t even see how far back it goes into the wall.
In the third picture, you can see I tried to clean out some of the lint from the vent outlet outside. It’s pretty packed in there, almost like concrete.
I’m not sure how to clean it properly. I’m considering using a brush to snake through the vent, but I’m worried about damaging it. Another option is to make a bigger hole in the wall to see where the hose connects, but I’m not sure if that’s the best idea. Any suggestions?
Can you try replacing the tubes first?
You could try using a leaf blower with a 4-inch reducer or a shop vac with the exhaust port. Place the blower or vac at the dryer hookup inlet side and see if you can blow out the blockage. I’m worried that using a duct brush might damage the plastic vent hose. It would be best to replace it with a smooth metal duct.
Make sure to use hard ductwork instead of flimsy thin-walled ductwork to avoid a fire hazard. It’s worth spending the money to do it right and protect your home. And remember, the ductwork needs to terminate outside without any screws, kinks, or screens.
Can you provide me with more details about this dryer vent? Does it lead into the walls or the crawl space under the house? The building code specifies that only hard piping is allowed under the house and in the walls, no flexible piping. Flex piping is only permitted inside the house when going into the walls.
Try using a shop vac and air compressor to clean the vent. Remember to create a seal over the inside end of the pipe before using the compressor. It’s important to have no one standing outside in front during this process. You can also use the shop vac from outside and snake it in with the hose. Consider replacing the dryer hose with solid pipe for a more effective solution and to avoid the hassle of cleaning a deteriorating pipe in the wall.
Using a blower can damage the vent and lead to a potential fire hazard. It’s recommended to have the vent cleaned annually. If the vent is severely clogged, consider hiring a duct specialist to clean it properly. It’s better to be cautious due to the extent of the damage and risk of further complications. Also, remember to regularly clear lint from the dryer to prevent hazards.
A few things to consider… ‘t attempt to clean it, replace it instead! This is a serious fire hazard that needs immediate attention. 1) Remove the flexible dryer venting and replace it with rigid metal ductwork. 2) Always use smooth interior ductwork to prevent lint buildup. 3) Codes prohibit corrugated ductwork through walls and require smooth interior surfaces. 4) Dryer vents are limited to 25′ in length with elbows counted as 5’. 5: Replace the vent for a safer and more efficient dryer. ood luck!
Is spot on! I don’t know how UL listed those transition ducts. They crush as soon as you push the dryer back against the wall haha. I prefer the kind below for flex.
Just because HD sells certain items doesn’t mean they meet code. The one you posted is just as bad as the original post, which was also metal, not plastic. There’s always a way to hard duct a dryer vent completely, despite what others may say. You can simply attach an elbow to a section of duct and connect it to the back of the dryer, letting it stick up as you push the dryer back against the wall. Then you finish the rest of the duct once the dryer is in place.
Said, “My buddy sent me a link.”
‘s version won’t crush when you push the dryer against the wall, plus it’s made of aluminum, not plastic. They both meet the code requirement for transition ducts to have the UL2158A listing.
That’s the default text that pops up when you share a link from Home Depot, gotta love it!
: Oh boy, I messed up…lol…
Haha, you nailed all the code requirements in your first comment, .
As a former property manager, it’s crucial for them to be informed. In addition, it’s a fire hazard for the whole building. You should contact the fire department to inspect and handle the situation with the property manager and owner. It’s the best way to ensure repairs are made.
Has an apartment and believes she is responsible for the repairs
Hey there! Did you purchase an apartment or a condo?
Has a condo in New York City
Ood luck, ! I didn’t enjoy any part of New York where I stayed, except for the streets.