How can I connect the drain in a tight space?
Asked by Yudit Kanishchenko 
4 months ago
Last Updated: August 4, 2024
Hey, can you help me figure out how to connect the drain? I’m kind of tight on space here…
Slice through the shelf
You’ll need to open up more of that shelf.
P trap kit and a flexible hose. Just kidding, scratch that idea.
Waiting for someone to suggest using a flexible approach
Hey , why not go with a flexi🤷🏼♂️
Hey ph Civitello, would you like me to provide a list?
Yeah, I was actually serious. I didn’t know they were that terrible.
Ph Civitello, they’re awful. I had to borrow one for a bit, and I can’t stand it.
They might crack along the creases and gather grime in the edges…..when positioned vertically, they can simplify aligning a pipe, but when placed horizontally, they become unpleasant
I’ve had one connected to my basement sink for a few years now… they really come in handy when you’re just a quarter inch off
Ph Civitello typically, they are utilized when things are not quite right, with some considering them as an option
Ph Civitello if they were to implement it in this situation, they wouldn’t need a trap, which could result in methane entering the house
Ph Civitello described them as terrible, but that’s an understatement. They have a bad reputation for clogging, leaking, improper installation, and more. Plumbers really dislike dealing with them.
Ph Civitello mentioned that they are not up to code. I’ve talked to a few who attempted to install it, failed inspection, and had to redo the plumbing work.
Step 1: Take out the shelf Step 2: Put in the drain Step 3: Trim the shelf to accommodate the drain
How about cutting off the 90 and replacing it with a 45? 🙄
I would probably start by clearing out the drain line if it seems to be blocked.
Start with a 45-degree angle and an extension, followed by your standard p-trap fitting.
There will be plenty of recommendations for you to choose from. I suggest taking this into account. You will require 4 components (1 P-trap, 2 45-degree angles, and a straight piece). These are available in kits and are relatively simple to install.
Descend smoothly, then ascend to the desired level. Next, make a 90-degree turn and go back 90 degrees.
Take a 22.5-degree turn and head towards your P-trap
The remarks about crayons are truly top-notch #removetheledge
You have the option to trim a bit off the end of the tailpipe
The flux capacitor can be angled at 70 degrees to the threaded thingamabob or simply adjust the shelf.
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‘t forget to grab the gaskets.
You don’t have to shorten your shelf. Simply trim that tail piece if height is an issue. Install the P-trap. Slide the extension tube against the wall. Use either a 22.5, a 45 (or two), or a couple of 90’s to connect at the wall. You can run straight back to the wall with the P-trap and 90s or go diagonally if there’s enough space for the P-trap and then mix 45s and 22.5’s. Purchase a P-trap kit, get two 45s, two 90’s, and two 22.5’s, then use what you need and return the rest.
Extend horizontally from the wall with a 90-degree fitting and connect it to a p-trap, but you might require a shorter tailpiece from the sink
You’re going to need to remove the vanity, make a small opening in the wall, cut out the 90-degree fitting, and replace it with a street 45-degree fitting connected by a shielded fernco (it resembles copper but it’s hard to confirm from the pictures). Then, attach a short piece of pipe with a trap adapter and a tubular p-trap. If this sounds too complicated, I suggest calling a professional.
Install a 45° trap adapter on the pipe, followed by a regular p-trap with an extension tube.
Trim the end and get it done
I see some 45s and a jig saw in your future.
Mark where the sink drain is on the wall.
Take out the vanity.
Cut into the drywall a little past the middle of where the vanity was.
Cut through the metal pipe near the existing 90-degree elbow using a metal blade and a sawzall.
Connect to the existing pipe using a fernco, then switch to abs or pvc.
Drill a hole in the next stud at the same height as the pipe.
Bring the pipe through and attach a 90-degree elbow where the drain will go.
Patch up the drywall.
Put the vanity back in place.
Put in a wye with a cleanout fitting just after the 90-degree elbow, then add your trap and finish up the plumbing.
If you do it right, it’ll help prevent blockages down the line.
If you’re going to tackle it, make sure to do it properly.
– advice from a plumber
It appears that there may have been leaks under the supply stops at some point.
In order to prevent sewer poisons, you need to ensure there is a drop then back up for the clean out. Consider getting a clean out, some 90-degree angles, 45-degree angles, and adapters to extend it. If you’re not comfortable with that, you could also purchase an accordion-style pipe that should do the trick. You can find them for around $15 for a single and $30 for a dual setup at Home Depot.
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Feel free to send me a direct message if you have any questions. I’m a licensed contractor who handles all kinds of projects and I’d be more than happy to offer some free advice.
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This material always ends up creating a mess.
It’s a great choice for people doing DIY projects, a lot of Chinese sinks and tubs actually utilize them or a similar version. As long as you properly attach and seal them, they work well – just remember to swap them out every 5 years or so when they start to get hard/brittle. These are made to work in tricky positions and I’ve used them multiple times without any problems. It’s likely that you had a defective one or didn’t install it correctly. Make sure to use adhesive when installing. They have the same type of piping that garbage disposals and dishwasher drains use, it’s all about the installation.
They don’t use code here in Ohio, they can get pretty gross as they catch debris from the drain.
Hey , it’s best to steer clear of using this item as it can lead to a sloppy and unhygienic outcome…
Hey , I would highly recommend avoiding these flexible fittings. It’s better to do the job correctly the first time to avoid having to redo it in a few years.
Please avoid cutting the wall or the shelf.
With my experience as a Master Plumber, I could easily install this in 15 minutes… most of the time spent would be unloading everything from my truck.
You have the option to use plastic slipjoint or chrome materials, as demonstrated.
Here are the necessary components:
1-1/4” P-trap
It might be a 1-1/2” x 1-1/4” slipnut and washer needed for the wall… I can’t say for certain. It could just be a regular 1-1/4” fitting.
You probably won’t need this. It seems like the tailpiece is already extending far down enough.
Cut the first 45° angle tightly to make sure the turn is sharp as you connect it to the slipnut by the wall.
When installing the P-trap, align the dip on the bottom properly. This will help you determine the distance you need to adjust from the wall with the next 45° piece (based on your measurement)
Position your next 45° piece with the dip in the p-trap. Instead of a tape measure, consider using a sharpie to mark your cuts – it’s more accurate. Align everything carefully and mark it. Slipjoint fittings allow for some flexibility.
Measure and cut the trap arm that connects to the 45° turn at the p-trap. Secure all connections properly. You should be all set.
*** Avoid using flexible tailpieces as they are against regulations and tend to collect debris and develop unpleasant odors over time. Stick to rigid options.
I work as a carpenter, so when I do plumbing in my own home, I usually work for about 15 minutes and then end up spending 4 hours running back to Home Depot for parts I forgot.
Speaking as someone who recently put in a new sink and piping. I made 3 trips to Home Depot and only spent 20 minutes working lol
– That’s the reason I provided a list of materials. Priceless…. Gas prices are no joke! 😂
Is the fitting in the wall threaded? Maybe you could consider using a 90-degree angle and running it along the back of the vanity, then adding a standard P trap.
I don’t get why people find this difficult. Sure, you may need to do some adjusting with Legos, but you can reach the drain and there’s a space below for the trap.
Wow, I wasn’t expecting so many responses. Big thanks to all who shared their input. I think I complicated things by using random pieces I had instead of following the correct method
You might want to consider putting it in the right spot 🤷🏼♂️