How can I connect a water line to my refrigerator when the only options are under new floors or through cabinets into the attic?
We just got a new house and we’re looking to upgrade the kitchen appliances. It’s my first time buying appliances and getting them set up. The layout of my kitchen has the sink on the opposite side of where the fridge goes. We just replaced all the flooring, so we’re not working with tile anymore. It seems like my only choices for connecting a water line to the fridge are either going under the new floors or going up the wall, through the cabinets and into the attic, then back down to the bottom cabinet where the sink is. I’m not even sure if that part of the attic is accessible with the AC unit up there. Any ideas on how to make this work? Pros and cons? We plan on redoing the whole kitchen eventually, but it’s not in the budget right now!
If I were you, I would just go without water in the fridge, especially if a kitchen remodel is in the near future.
The water connection is simply a small flexible tube so it shouldn’t be difficult to pass it through the wall – is there a basement below?
My reverse osmosis system in the basement connects to both my fridge and sink.
Nope, just a single-story house with an attic.
Hey, what’s on the other side of the fridge? You could connect to a larger cold pipe and install a saddle valve – maybe there’s some plumbing in the attic you can tap into.
The living room wall on the opposite side is where you’ll find the connection.
You can either search for the nearest cold water pipe on your own or consider hiring a plumber or handyman to locate it and handle the connection.
Strongly advises against using a saddle valve. It should be the absolute last resort.
Chances are your waterlines are in the attic and fairly easy to reach. If you’re not confident in your abilities, it’s best to hire a plumber to do the job.
They’ve been working fine for a long time.
Everything’s good until it’s not. talk to any plumber and they’ll all tell you to avoid using a saddle valve if possible.
I remember last week when I was touring a house and the renter had set up a water jug system next to the fridge – they just had to top it off about once a month, according to them.
You know, they have the option to install plumbing underneath the house that connects to your fridge wall.
Invest in high-quality appliances and make sure to get a warranty. Modern appliances tend to be unreliable and having a warranty is essential.
Thinks Samsung products are not up to par.
Loves her phone but has issues with her appliances. In South Carolina, they struggle with servicing.
I think they should just stick to making phones and TVs.
The water lines for my fridge are not connected to the water under the sink. There’s a separate connection in the wall. A plumber or handyman should be able to handle this task easily. When I had my 2800 sq foot house re-plumbed, the plumber found it relatively easy to access all the water lines with minimal cuts to the drywall to run new lines.
Is it a slab floor? If it is, you can route the water line through the cabinets. I suggest using copper tubing and keeping it high near the counter top. If you opt for plastic, you can protect it by covering it with wire mold.
It’s probable that your water lines pass through the attic.
When I renovated my kitchen, I thought outside the box. The kitchen is located above a basement that houses water and electrical systems. Originally, I had a Jenn Air Stovetop with downdraft ventilation in an island in the center of the kitchen. I needed to reevaluate the ventilation system. There was a change in the roofline from two stories to one on an inside wall. So, I decided to swap the Jenn Air for a gas range and overhead fan. The fan now vents into the laundry room and up through the roof of the first story. I kept the island with its 220 power. I installed drawer microwaves and island ovens. I replaced the old stacked microwave and oven with a refrigerator, which was then moved to the center and flanked by the range and hood. I also added an end cabinet. I purchased a complete set of new appliances for a discounted price, similar to buying a washer and dryer together. Since all the appliances were from the same brand, I received a double warranty and a free dishwasher as a year-end bonus. The kitchen’s proximity to the electrical box made it convenient to relocate and add 220 power. I drew a scaled floor plan and utility plan first, focusing on the top view. I positioned the appliances in the center of each wall and balanced the cabinets on either side. The layout depended on whether I used store-bought or custom cabinets. Initially, I had to clean above the store-bought cabinets because there was no soffit, and the ceilings were 9 feet high. The second time around, I opted for custom cabinets that reached the ceiling. As a mechanical CAD Designer, I collaborated with the cabinet maker on hardware, resulting in creative solutions. The window was larger than expected, so I adjusted the sink cabinet’s centerline and decreased each cabinet’s width by 2 inches on each side to maintain the appearance in the front view. Utilizing CAD design perspectives made the process seem challenging but straightforward on paper. Lastly, I discovered a cold vent and maintained the original doorway location and cabinet depth.
Which room is behind the fridge? It could be simpler to tap into a water line in a nearby bathroom or utility room instead of the kitchen sink. Just a suggestion.
It is now positioned against an outside wall in line with the sink and dishwasher. One way in the basement leads to the well. Another direction leads to the sub pump and water softener at a 90-degree angle.
Just from what I’m imagining, I think it might be easier to connect to a water line in the basement and run it up through the wall behind the fridge rather than going over from the sink. But that’s just my idea. Maybe it would be a good idea to have someone with plumbing experience come and check it out in person?
Explains that the system functions similarly, but the water tank location differs – it’s in the basement instead of under the sink, providing filtered water to the sink and ice machine through the floor.
I think you have a good chance of doing this through the attic. Building codes usually require easy access to the AHU for maintenance purposes.
We recently upgraded all of ours last year. Opting for a bundled price saved us money. Our new fridge came with an ice maker and filtered water, and we had a plumber set it up. We had to exchange the first refrigerator because it didn’t fit in our space. Nowadays, not many new fridges open flush due to the thickness of the doors. They open outside the frame. So, before purchasing one, make sure to measure with the doors open. We tried to choose a model with fewer extra features to minimize potential issues. The top rack in my new dishwasher is a favorite of mine, I use it every cycle. Initially, I wanted an oven that could separate into top and bottom sections, but I changed my mind after researching about it. I’d suggest knowing your preferences before starting to shop. If a particular feature catches your eye, think about why and if it’s a need or just a want. Looking back, I wish I had opted for a full fridge with additional inserts instead of a split one, but, oh well.
You have a drop ceiling where the fan and lighting are enclosed. You could easily route it up and over through there.
Avoid using flex plastic line inside the walls. Tap into any cold supply line, likely in the attic above the bathroom or even the kitchen sink. Use hard copper or Pex instead. That flex plastic isn’t designed for the full pressure of a house line, typically 25-27 psi. It can break, causing significant water damage that probably won’t be covered by your homeowners insurance. Feel free to ask me why I’m saying this.
Feel free to use 1/4 plastic tubing inside walls with no issues.
I have personally witnessed and taken care of the damage, so feel free to take a look. Thankfully, I was smart enough not to attempt it myself. I’m not referring to PVC, the soft see-through or black 1/4″ tubing intended for swamp coolers. I would love to witness your insurance company’s reaction when they find out what happened.
If you went with rubber hose, then that’s where things went wrong. I can’t imagine a professional plumber making that kind of mistake. Always stick to the correct 1/4 tubing.
Our house was repiped using flex pipes by a plumbing company recommended by the local water company. So far, we haven’t had any issues. They had to go through our cabinets to install the water line for the ice maker.
Oh yeah, this one definitely has a slab foundation. You can tell right away by the tile floor. Walking from one end to the other can be a bit of a challenge. The flippers decided to take a shortcut by using 1/4″ plastic tubing to connect the fridge in my neighbor’s house. Well, my Dad attempted to move the fridge and ended up cracking the tile, leaving behind a 6″ scar. The next morning, a firefighter neighbor returned to find my Dad in the hospital and the kitchen floor ruined by water damage. They should have just used wooden flooring in the first place, laziness got the best of them. It cost $14k to fix the problem.
I think you’re referring to PEX, Roger Kathleen Cantrell, which is a fantastic product. Beryl, on the other hand, is mentioning rubber hose.
I’m sure you could thread it through the suspended ceiling. It’s a narrow line, similar in size to a cable TV wire. It’s easier to repair drywall than to redo the flooring. Our water line goes through the crawl space beneath the kitchen. Could that work?
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Ph Smith haha…there’s a ph Smith in Cape Canaveral. haha. What’s the deal with that?
If you’re not in immediate need of replacing items, it might be best to wait.
We recently purchased a new refrigerator that doesn’t have a water/ice maker. Instead, we just buy bags of ice and store them in the freezer. Surprisingly, it doesn’t take up any more space than our old fridge with a built-in ice maker. Since I don’t like our tap water, I have a water cooler. The cost isn’t much different from what we paid for tap water, so it all balances out. It might be worth considering getting a fridge that doesn’t require a water hookup.
My last two fridges had built-in filters. This current one doesn’t have an ice maker. My wife jokingly calls me “ice boy.” It’s frustrating. She ended up buying me 8 ice cube trays to keep up with demand. Ice and trays definitely occupy a lot of space. Thankfully, she got a stand-up freezer so we have some room for food. In our new place, we have ice and water dispensers on the door, which is super convenient.
Those ice trays really do take up a lot of space and are such a hassle to keep filled, right? I’m sure you’ll figure out a great solution. Maybe try moving the fridge to the wall near the sink? It’s hard to tell from the picture if there’s enough space for that.
I am the one responding, not being responded to. I refuse to purchase another refrigerator without ice and water features. On a side note, my second daughter recently realized that not all of them come with a light for easy access to refreshments.
So what’s underneath the kitchen? A crawl space or basement?
Typically, you run it underneath. It’s not a big deal, it usually won’t impact the flooring. They just have to drill a small hole for the pipe to pass through (usually 1/4”). The hole is usually placed against the back wall behind the fridge, where it won’t be visible. Any necessary repairs would be done to the basement ceiling below. If it’s a drop ceiling or crawl space, there won’t be any damage at all. There might be a hole in the drywall at each end, and maybe more if they need to go through a stud (depending on the direction of the joists).
Can you provide more details? Is your house built on a concrete slab or do you have a basement or crawl space? Are there any bathrooms close to the refrigerator? And where is the washer located in relation to the refrigerator?