How can I address truss uplift and big drywall gaps in my house without resorting to crown molding?
Asked by Francis Duncan 
4 months ago
Last Updated: July 26, 2024
We’ve been dealing with truss uplift problems in our house, which has resulted in noticeable drywall gaps along the wall and ceiling. It’s really bothering me. I’m not a fan of using crown molding. Do you think using a flexible caulk could help fix this issue? Any suggestions on how to improve the appearance would be greatly appreciated.
You can always consider caulking as a solution.
Painters were supposed to caulk and make the transition from the wall to the ceiling look seamless. So, yes, it is possible to fix it but it may have shifted since it was built. It’s time for a redo.
Oh no! The painters wouldn’t have caulked and painted it as if it were a “new” build. They would have taped and finished it with drywall mud. Now that it’s cracked, it should be caulked with a flexible caulk.
Definitely. After that, make sure to apply 2 coats of paint on top
Truss uplift happens because of seasonal changes, so the gap will change as the year goes on. Paint over caulk will eventually crack and peel.
Hey , I’ve never come across trusses lifting in my 40 years in the business. Your house may settle, but it definitely won’t lift up! 😂
Hey , sorry but it happens. During winter there might be a gap, but in Spring it goes away. Using chalk won’t fix it and I believe we can both agree that once it settles, it doesn’t raise back up.
I’m from Ohio and I’ve never heard of trusses lifting up or seen cracks from it. If it were a common issue, every house would have cracks at the top of the walls. It might be a roof problem, possibly due to a missing drip edge.
I don’t think the crack in Ohio is there all year round, Geneva D. Lawrence is not there.
Lawrence’s drywall mud from Geneva D isn’t flexible enough for painting.
Hey Chris, just wanted to share some info about my house in SC. I can vouch for the authenticity of what I’m saying. The writing is on both the front and back walls, never on the side walls. My house is 112 years old and made with wood that’s true to size and practically petrified.
I really hope you never have to deal with this issue. It’s a real headache. This used to be a big problem back in the late 60’s and early 70’s when trusses were first being used in home construction, but it’s mostly been fixed now with better attic ventilation systems.
Hey Chris, my drywall near the ceiling still needs some mud. There’s a 5″ crown there right now. I’m staring at a half inch gap, but don’t worry, it’ll be fixed by April.
Sure, you can try using flexible caulk. I think Home Depot sells it.
Sashco’s Big Stretch white caulk is a game-changer.
Assisted a friend from France with his renovation project. His old house has plaster walls. He highly recommends this product and even had his dad send some over. I must admit, it did wonders for the cracked walls typical of old European houses. Used it to fix spiderweb cracks on a flat ceiling.
Apply drywall compound, then sand it smooth.
Oh yeah, that curved wall could be tricky with any movement. I would recommend cutting out 1 1/2 inches of the ceiling and wall where the tape is finished in that area, then installing mesh before mudding with sheetrock 20. ‘t forget to sand in between skim coats
If you notice nails or screw pops on the ceiling close to the wall, remove them. As a former drywaller, we kept screws at least 12 inches away from walls to prevent issues caused by truss movement.
The best option is to use this or crown molding. If you prefer not to use crown molding, you will need to take out the screws on the ceiling that are 12-16″ away from the wall.
Absolutely
It’s a challenge to repair once it’s already in place. 🥴
Absolutely. You need to push up and locate the screws and/or nails. Remove them and use durabond. Yes, it’s a lot of prep work.
Just go ahead and apply some silicone caulk to it, seriously you all are overcomplicating this
Painters Caulk is specifically designed for this kind of situation. I’m not exactly sure which brands are the best, but I personally use a lot of DAP and find it works quite effectively.
You should opt for the big stretch brand in this case.
I agree with that!
Have you thought about attaching the truss/joist to the wall using timber tie screws, either from above or below? It should have been secured to the wall during construction with brackets or timber ties. A 2 piece crown could be the next best choice as it allows for sliding over each other, with one piece attached to the ceiling and the other to the wall.
Just two words: Simpson Ties
It’s best to address the issue before fixing any cosmetic damages.
I think the drywall might have been finished with mesh tape or not finished at all (possibly had crown molding that was later removed). If it did, re-doing the corner seams with paper tape and mud should solve the issue. You could also use a silicone-based caulk. It may or may not last long-term.