How can a walnut face grain wood countertop be installed in this space to accommodate expansion and contraction?
Asked by Zelaine Costa 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 29, 2024
Do you know how to properly install a wood countertop in this area so that the wood can expand and contract as needed? We’re having trouble finding instructions for installing on cabinets with an open top. The wood we’re using is walnut face grain.
Despite the limited space on the countertop, you shouldn’t have any issues. Expansion may be limited by the two walls, but it can still move in two other directions.
How did you go about securing it? I’m worried about it cracking when it expands or contracts if just screwed in from underneath.
It shouldn’t expand too much in length (along the grain)
I heard slotted holes or figure 8 fasteners (not sure what those are).
Totally understand!
https://www.thehandymansdaughter.com/figure-8-table-top-fasteners/
Recommends using slotted holes instead of figure 8s for an easier job. The slots should be oriented perpendicular to the direction of the wood grain movement. Ensure to prepare countersink slotted holes, either by watching YouTube videos or asking at a hardware store for the right drill bits. Also, inquire at the store for the appropriate timber sealer to use. This way, you can choose one that falls within a moderate price range.
Explained that if a 20-foot piece of wood expands by 0.25%, it will grow by 0.6 inches. However, a 3-foot piece expanding by the same percentage would only grow by 0.09 inches. So, if a small countertop expanded by 1/10 of an inch, would it cause any issues? No.
Ah, setting up a walnut face grain countertop, now that’s a stylish choice! Walnut wood requires space to expand and contract naturally, so it’s important not to screw it down too tightly. Opt for slotted holes or figure-eight fasteners for a bit of flexibility when attaching the wood to the base.
For the edge, maintain a small distance of around 1/8 inch between the wood and the walls. This gap can be concealed with trim, but it’s crucial to allow room for the wood to expand.
Remember to properly SEAL both the top and bottom surfaces to ensure consistent moisture levels and reduce the risk of expansion and contraction.
If you’re placing it on closed cabinets, ensure adequate VENTILATION to regulate moisture and wood movement.
In a nutshell, be patient, accommodate the wood’s natural tendencies, and enjoy a durable and attractive countertop. Cheers!
Thank you, !
Do you have any suggestions for what to seal it with?
You could try using a clear anti-bacterial sealer from Ronseal, hope this suggestion helps
Just wanted to give you a round of applause for your fantastic and informative response 👏
You’re welcome
Oh wow! I totally agree! I’m going to give him a follow so I can reach out with questions later on! haha!
Hey , one more thing – don’t forget to seal the ends. But your advice is solid overall.
Hey there, ! I hear you. It’s great to find someone who is both helpful AND kind. It’s a rare combination.
Make sure there’s a 20A outlet installed on that countertop
Absolutely correct. Get it done now, you’ll thank yourself later
I would have to agree with that
Just the same. I literally just mentioned the minimum code requirement haha
Wonders if this is the correct code, especially if it’s not considered part of a kitchen
Recommends installing them high to avoid being blocked by items on the counter
Prefers a counter height of 44” above the subfloor
Hey there! Typically, the electrical code requires a plug to be installed every 6ft along the wall in any room. You might want to check if there’s one either to the left or right of the cabinet. The requirements for ‘kitchen’ counters are quite specific and different, especially in terms of wiring, size, and installation to the breaker box. All of these rules are in place to prevent the breaker from tripping when you’re using multiple appliances at once, like a toaster or kettle.
But hey, if you can manage to get a plug in there, you’ll thank yourself later. 🙂
Hey, thanks for the info. This house is pretty old, like 100 years old, so it’s definitely not up to code. We did manage to add an outlet about 6 ft to the right of this one. We might add another one closer to the floor next to this to avoid too much patching.
I wish I had actually put two on my outlet. Only having one is a bit of a hassle.
Try allowing the walnut to adjust to the room for a few days before installing it to observe how it responds. Applying a polyurethane finish will significantly slow down the wood’s movement, though not completely stop it.
For a seamless look and to address expansion, tear out the sheetrock, extend the countertop into the wall, and then re-sheer over it. This will provide perfect coverage and keep the expansion within the wall.
To ensure movement, I opt for tabs and screws with oversized holes when assembling my steel frame tables.
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When installing a 1” thick X 4” high backsplash, make sure to leave a 1/4” gap from the wall to account for expansion and contraction. It’s best to do this installation during the summer when humidity levels are high.
Hey , I forgot to mention that I’m trying to figure out the best way to secure it to the cabinets below. I’m worried that just screwing it in might lead to cracking over time.
Said
Plastic L brackets are available for mounting cabinets to counters. They allow for some movement if you don’t tighten them too much. We opted for teak.
We have countertops on our counter, so there’s no space for L brackets. That’s the problem we encountered.
Oh, got it. Has the cabinet been secured to the wall yet? This type of attachment, starting with the counter then moving to the cabinet, could be effective. Just make sure to attach it from the back of the cabinet before securing it to the wall.
Scribe the counter against the drywall, cut out the drywall to create a slot about a quarter inch deep for the counter to fit snugly. Apply clear latex caulk along the wall and counter junction.
Has a plaster to work with. It’s a bit more challenging.
Yes, , it is. Another option is to use a stainless steel L bracket that’s about a quarter of an inch in size, with the lip covering the gap. Alternatively, you could use a black piece or something that matches your hardware color.
I actually did this… Sealed it multiple times. It’s been 2 years now and there have been no issues with expansion. The water doesn’t get absorbed at all.
How did you secure the bottom cabinets?
I made sure to seal both sides and the edges that meet the sink and sides. I ended up applying around 20 coats on the top because it dried so quickly. Used the poly shown in the pic. There’s still a gap between the wall and countertop (I made a backsplash piece from scrap wood). We predrilled the holes and used the brackets provided. The back of the countertop towards the mirror is smaller, so it fit snugly back there. We’ve never had issues with wood projects before, but we do live in Southern California, so I understand other parts of the country might face more challenges.
Another factor to consider is where you reside in the US and whether your HVAC system effectively controls humidity. I live in Indiana where the temperature and humidity levels can vary greatly.
Your biggest growth will be from front to back. It might be small lengthwise, but nothing to be concerned about.